.2 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


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prym^m 


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^':^  -Vi 


LIFE    AND    NATURE 


UXDEK 


THE  TROPICS; 


OR, 


SKETCHES    OF   TRAA^ELS  AMONG    THE    ANDES,   AND 
ON  THE  ORINOCO,  RIO  NEGRO,  AND  AMAZONS. 


BY 

H.  M.  AND  p.  V.  K  MYERS. 


NEW    YORK: 
D.     APPLET  ON    AND     COMPANY, 

90,  92  &  9-1  GRAXD  STREET. 

1871. 


Ektered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871, 

By  D.  APPLETON  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


IZIL, 


SRLF 
VRJ. 


niu 


TO 
PROFESSOR     ASA     GRAY,    M.D.,    LL.D., 

cohrebpondin'g  member  of  the  eoval  bavarian  academy,  etc., 

WHOSE      EMINENT      LABORS 

HATE   DONE    SO   MUCH   TO   ADVANCE   AND   RENDER  POPULAR   THAT   DEPARTMENT 
OF   NATURAL   HISTORY    TO   WHICH   HIS   LIFE   HAS   BEEN   DEVOTED, 

THIS      VOLUME 

IS,  BY  PEESnSSION,  MOST  RESPECTFULLY  INSCRIBED 

AS    A    SLIGHT  TRIBUTE  OF 

PROFOUND     ADMIRATION     AND     GRATITUDE. 


'"Nowlicre  docs  Nature  more  deeply  impress  ns  with  a  sense  of  her  great- 
ness, nowhere  does  she  speak  to  us  more  forcibly,  than  in  the  tropical 
world.''''— 3u?nboldL 


"It  is  a  Roodly  sight  to  see 
What  Heaven  has  done  for  this  delicious  land  1 
WTiat  fraits  of  fragrance  blush  on  every  tree, 
What  good  prospects  o'er  the  Mils  expand : 
But  raan  would  mar  them  with  an  impious  hand." 

CniLDE  IIakold. 


PREFACE. 


The  following  pages  are  a  narrative  of  a  scientific 
expedition  from  Williams  College  to  tlie  tropical  re- 
gions of  South  America.  The  Lycemn  of  Natural 
History  of  this  institution  has  sent  out  several  expe- 
ditions to  different  localities  that  have  presented  them- 
selves as  favorable  fields  for  new  and  interesting  re- 
search. The  one  whose  history  is  given  in  this  volume 
was  sent  out  in  the  summer  of  186 Y.  Upon  its  first 
inception,  Prof.  A.  Hopkins  w^as  intending  to  accom- 
pany the  expedition  ;  but  business  and  educational  re- 
lations having  rendered  this  impossible,  an  invitation 
was  extended  to  Prof.  James  Orton,  of  Rochester  Uni- 
versity, to  take  charge,  and  was  accepted. 

Colonel  P.  Staunton,  Yice-Chancellor  of  Ingham 
University,  Leroy,  IST.  Y.,  accompanied  the  expedition 
as  its  artist ;  the  party  was  also  joined  by  F.  S.  Wil- 
liams, Esq.,  of  Albany,  N.  Y. ;  Messrs.  A.  Bushnell, 
W.  Gilbert,  E.  H.  Forbes,  and  the  authors,  were  the 
members  from  Williams  College.  The  expedition  was 
formed  into  two  divisions:  one,  consisting  of  three 
members,  Messrs,  Gilbert,  Forbes,  and  II.  M,  Myers, 
proceeding   from   Caracas,  upon   the   northern   coast, 


yi  PREFACE. 

penetrated  to  the  Amazons,  by  the  courses  of  the  Ori- 
noco and  Rio  jSTegro ;  the  other  party  crossed  the  con- 
tinent from  the  west,  first  ascending  the  Andes  to 
Quito,  then  descending  the  slope  of  the  Eastern  Cor- 
dillera to  the  Eio  jSTapo,  and,  by  a  canoe-voyage  down 
that  stream,  reaching  the  Amazons,  which  was  followed 
to  its  mouth. 

As  the  scientific  results  of  the  western  branch  have 
been  given  to  the  public  by  Prof.  Orton,  we  have 
made  brief  the  portion  of  our  narrative  referring  to 
that  division  ;  yet,  while  divesting  it  of  details,  we  have 
made  sufiicient  notings  of  our  experiences  and  observa- 
tions to  give  completeness  to  our  history.  Portions  of 
the  work  have  been  taken,  with  but  few  incidental 
corrections,  from  articles  written  by  us  while  upon  our 
tour,  or  after  our  return,  and  which  have  appeared  in 
dififerent  papers  and  periodicals.  ISTeither  part  is  dis- 
tinctly that  of  either  author;  but  in  the  preparation 
of  the  work  we  have  freely  interchanged  notes  and 
suggestions. 

"While  giving,  in  our  boyish  way,  mainly  the  results 
of  our  own  observations,  we  have  not  failed  to  avail 
ourselves  of  the  labors  of  others,  and  have  carefully 
examined  the  few  works  within  our  reach  relative  to 
the  regions  traversed.  In  the  first  portion  of  our  work 
we  have  been  guided  by  the  "  Travels  "  of  the  eminent 
German  naturalist,  Humboldt,  to  whose  observations 
we  have  made  frequent  allusions  in  the  course  of  our 
narrative ;  to  the  graphically-written  work  of  Paez  we 
are  also  indebted  for  many  suggestions  ;  upon  Ecuador, 
Ilassaurek's  "  Fo.ur  Years  among  Spanish- Americans  " 
has  been  almost  our  only  guide.  The  greater  portion 
of  the  volume  is  devoted  to  the  Orinoco,  Eio  Kegro, 


PKEFACE.  Vii 

and  the  Andes.  We  have  given  but  two  chapters  on 
the  Amazons,  for  the  wonders  of  that  river  have  been 
made  known  bj  such  writers  as  Agassiz,  "Wallace,  and 
Bates,  and  many  earlier  travellers,  and  to  these  writers 
we  would  refer  those  of  our  readers  who  may  desire  a 
better  knowledge  of  the  valley  of  the  Great  River. 
The  desire  of  many  that  a  complete  narrative  of  the 
expedition  from  our  college  should  be  given  in  a  per- 
manent form,  and  our  own  -wish  that  'others  miglit 
share  with  us  the  pleasure  we  experienced  in  viewing 
a  tropical  JSTature  in  those  equatorial  regions  where  she 
presents  herself  in  forms  so  strange  and  grand,  coupled 
with  the  fact  that  so  little  has  been  written  upon  those 
interesting  portions  of  the  continent  to  which  sections 
our  work  is  principally  devoted,  are  the  only  considera- 
tions that  could  have  led  us  to  undertake  the  preparation 
of  the  present  volume.  We  are  conscious  that  our  work 
has  all  the  imperfections  incident  to  a  first  effort,  and 
that  its  kind  reception  can  come  only  through  the  kindly 
indulgence  of  our  readers. 

The  illustrations  which  embellish  tlie  work  are  prin- 
cipally from  our  own  sketch-book,  and  are,  for  the  most 
part,  representations  of  natural  scenery.  In  this  con- 
nection we  would  express  our  especial  indebtedness  to 
Miss  F.  A.  Snyder,  to  whom  our  sketches  were  submit- 
ted to  be  prepared  for  the  engraver. 

The  expedition  is  under  deep  indebtedness  to  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  which  provided  instruments 
for  making  meteorological  observations,  and  secured 
transportation  of  collections,  besides  giving  essential 
aid  in  other  ways. 

We  desire  to  express  our  kindest  thanks  to  Dr.  Asa 
Gray,  for  the  identification  of  many  of  our  plants  ;  to 


Vlll 


PEEFACE. 


Don  Ramon  Paez,  of  Veneznela,  for  valuable  assistance 
rendered  us  in  the  preparation  of  our  Avork ;  to  Seiior 
E.  Staal,  of  Valencia,  for  mncli  information  kindly 
given  us;  to  Mr.  James  Henderson,  of  Para,  J,  F. 
Keeve,  Esq.,  of  Guayaquil,  and  Dr.  William  Jameson, 
of  Quito,  for  many  favors.  We  Avould  also  express 
our  deep  obligations  to  Prof.  A.  Hopkins,  for  valuable 
snggestions  and  kind  encouragement  in  our  work;  to 
Dr.  J.  Torrey,  for  the  examination  of  plants  submitted 
to  him  ;  to  R.  II.  Forbes,  our  fellow-traveller,  for  notes 
generously  placed  at  our  disposal ;  to  Albert  Bushnell, 
also  our  friend  and  companion  ;  to  C.  P.  Williams,  Esq., 
of  Albany ;  to  W.  P.  Palmer,  Esq.,  and  Cjanis  W.  Field, 
Esq.,  of  Kew  York  ;  and  to  R.  B.  Hall,  Esq.,  of  Ash- 
field,  Mass,  Nor  would  we  forget  to  acknowledge  our 
indebtedness  to  Captain  Lee,  of  Guayaquil,  to  Captain 
Raygado,  of  the  Peruvian  steamer  "  Morona,"  to  Com- 
mandante  Cardozo,  of  the  Brazilian  steamer  "  Icami- 
aba,"  on  the  Amazons,  and  to  the  many  other  Mends 
that  have  aided  ns,  and  wliose  favors  are  gratefully  re- 
membered. 

The  Authoes. 
Williams  Collegf,  Kovemher,  ISTO. 


COE'TEE'TS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

FROM    LA    GUAIRA    TO    CARACAS. 

First  View  of  the  Tropics. — Silla — La  Guaira. — Fortifications. — Custom- 
house "  Eeasonableness."  —  Ascent  of  the  Cordillera. — Picturesque 
Scenery. — Arrival  at  Caracas  ....  Page  1 

CHAPTEK  II, 

CARACAS. 

Valley  of  Caracas. — Site  of  the  City. — Houses. — Cathedral. — Public  Build- 
ings.— Pulperlas. — Earthquake  of  1812.— People. — Dress. — Education. 
— ^Literature. — Eeligion. — Cemeteries       ....  9 

CHAPTER  III. 

EXCURSIONS  ABOUT  CARACAS. 

Trip  to  the  Cave  of  Encantado. — Railroad. — Thunder-storm. — Petare. — A 
Hopeful  Student. — E.xperiencc  at  a  Posada. — The  Cave. — Pineapple- 
Plant. — Calabash-Tree. — Yuca-Shrub. — Death  of  jlr.  Wilson. —  La 
Valle.— Cerro  de  Avila     ......  20 

CHAPTER  IV. 

VALLEYS  OF  ARAGUA  AND  VALENCIA. 

Departure  from  Caracas. — Scenery  of  the  Rio  Guaira. — Beautiful  View 
from  Mount  Higuerote. — The  "  Garden  of  Venezuela." — Victoria. — 
Spanish  Extortion. — A  "Word  on  Mules. — Venezuelian  Coaches. — Mara- 
cai. — Castilian  Etiquette. — Fast  in  a  Stream. — Entrance  into  Valen- 
cia.—The  City.— Lake  Tacarigua  ....  30 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  V. 

VALENCIA    AND   PCEUTO    CADELLO. 

Ilucienda  of  ilr.  Gluckler. — Coffee. — Cacao. — Tigcr-IIunt. — A  Tropical 
Forest.— Lost  on  the  Mountains. — A  Cheerless  Night. — Exit  from  the 
Wilds.— Eeturn  to  Valencia. — Descent  to  the  Sea-coast. — Papaw- 
Tree. — "  Cow-Tree." — Thermal  Springs. — Discomforts  of  Life  at  a 
Hacienda. — Cocoa-Palm. — Mangroves. — Puerto  Cabello  Page  44 

CHAPTER  VI. 

OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS — AFLOAT  IN  THE  FOREST. 

Water-system  of  South  America. — Our  Route. — Leave  Puerto  Cabello. — 
Last  Visit  to  Valencia. — A  South  American  Road. — Fording  a  River. — 
Wild  Scenery. — Niglit  at  a  Posada. — First  View  of  Llanos. — Their  Ex- 
tent and  General  Features. — Town  of  Pao. — Embarked  for  Baul. — Our 
Bongo. — "Very  bad"  to  wash  before  Breakfast. — Palms. — Bam- 
boos.— Alligators. — Howling  Monkeys. — Lost  in  the  Forest. — Navigat- 
ing under  Difficulties. — Shooting  Rapids. — Night  at  a  Llano  Hut      58 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

BAUL    AND    SAN    FKRNANDO. 

Over  the  Flooded  Llanos. — Abundance  of  Animated  Life. — ^^On  the  Rio 
Trinaco. — A  Tropical  Shower. — Sickness. — Arrival  at  Baul. — One  of 
the  Party  Homeward  bound. — Sad  Reflections. — Stay  at  Baul. — Down 
the  Portuguesa. — Arrival  at  San  Fernando. — The  Town. — Preparations 
for  continuing  our  Voyage. — A  Deliberate  Crew  .  .  81 

CHAPTER  VHL 

AFLOAT    UPON    THE    LLAXO.S. 

Aspect  of  the  Inundated  Plains. — Wild  Horses  and  Cattle. — Crocodiles. — 
Anacondas. — Electric  Eels. — Cannibal-Fish. — Experiences  upon  the 
Payara. — Myriads  of  Aquatic  Birds. — A  Breakfast  and  Cock-fight. — 
Manati,  or  "Sea-cow." — Upon  the  Arauca. — Over  Flooded  Savan- 
nas.— At  Asaiba. — Niguas. — Jaguar. — Abnormal  Butchering. — Em- 
barked for  the  Orinoco. — Navigating  Submerged  Forest. — Lost  upon 
the  Llanos. — An  Uncomfortable  Night. — Arrival  upon  the  Orinoco. 

93 

CHAPTER  IX. 


The  Orinoco. — Preparations  for  entering  Urbana. — Reception  at  the  Town. 
— A  Fiesta-Day. — Our  Quarters. — Smoking  out  Bats. — Description  of 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


Town. — Ascent  of  Cerro. — Picturesque  View. — Harper's  Weekly. — 
Insects  and  Birds. — Annoying  Delays. — An-angeinents  for  Voyage  up 
the  Orinoco  ......  Page  111 

CHAPTEK  X. 

UP      THE      ORIXOCO. 

Farewell  to  Urbana. — Strait  of  Baraguan. — Mirage. — Harvest  of  Turtles' 
Eggs. — Camp  of  Indians. — Santa  Barbara. — Indian  Simplicity  and  Be- 
liefs.— Features  of  the  Kiver. — Castillo  de  los  Espaiioles. — A  Legend. — 
Piedra  del  Tigre. — Music  in  the  Eocks. — Eaudal  de  Cariben. — Eio 
Meta. — A  Wild  Scene. — Bats  and  Other  Annoyances  .  123 

CHAPTEE  XI. 

THE    GREAT    CATARACTS    OF    THE    ORINOCO. 

Grandeur  of  the  Eapids  of  Aturos. — Passing  the  Cataracts. — Village  of 
Atures. — Weapons  of  the  Natives. — Suffering  from  Insects. — Cave  of 
Ataruipe. — Beautiful  Palms. — Arrive  at  the  Eaudales  de  Maypures. — 
Magnificent  View  of  the  Cataracts. — Thanksgiving  Dinner. — Village 
of  Maypures. — Nature's  Chronometer. — Farewell  to  the  Orinoco. — At 
San  Fernando  de  Atabapo  .  .  .  .  .  lil 

CHAPTEE  XII. 

ATABAPO    AND    UPPER    RIO    NEGRO. 

Village  of  San  Fernando. — Ship-building. — Voyage  up  the  Atabapo. — Its 
Peculiar  Features. — Arrival  at  Javita. — Portage  to  Pimichin. — Down 
the  Pimichin. — Eio  Negro.— Village  of  Mor6a. — Scarcity  of  Food. — 
Eepairing  a  Yankee  Clock. — Arrangements  for  Voyage  to  the  Ama- 
zons.— Leave  Morua. — San  Carlos. — Enter  Brazil        .  .  158 

CHAPTEE  XIII. 

VOYAGE    DOWN    THE    RIO    NEGRO. 

First  Glimpse  of  Portuguese  Civilization. — Climate. — Cross  the  Equator. — 
Cataracts  of  San  Gabriel. — Grand  Sceneiy.— Desertion  of  Guide. — 
India-Euhber  Manufacture. — Christmas  on  the  Eio  Negro. — Floating 
at  Night. — Beauty  of  the  Southern  Firmament. — Lost  on  the  Eiver. — 
Barcellos. — Geology  of  the  Eio  Negro. — Desolation  of  the  Eiver. — 
Eeach  Manaos. — Tidings  from  the  Quitonian  Party  of  our  Expedition. — 
Farewell  to  the  Eio  Negro  .....  175 


xii  CONTENTS. 

CIIAPTEK  XIV. 

FROM    PANAMA    TO    BODEGAS. 

Aspinwall. — Across  the  Istlimus. — Tropical  Vegetation. — Panama. — Upon 
tlie  Pacific. — Paita. — Peruvian  Coast. — Ancient  Sea-Beaches. — Causes 
of  Sterility  and  Low  Temperature. — Keturn  Northward. — Forest. — 
Guayaquil. — Preparations  for  Climbing  the  Andes. — Scenery  of  the 
Guayas. — First  View  of  Cliiuiborazo. — Niglit-Seene  upon  the  Eiver. 

Page  194 

CllAPTEK  XV. 

CROSSING     THE     ANDES. 

Bodegas.— Beneath  the  Forest. — Climbing  the  Cordillera. — Our  Mules. — 
Above  the  Clouds. — Descending  Trains. — Caraino  Eeal. — Valley  of 
Chimbo. — Guaranda. — Upon  the  Crest  of  the  Andes. — Arenal. — The 
Snow-line. — Dreary  Eide. — Zones  of  Vegetation. — Coloration  of 
Flowers  of  High  Altitudes. — Valley  of  Quito. — At  the  Foot  of  Chim- 
borazo. — Mocha. — A  Posada-scene.— Spanish  Curiosity. — Ambato. — 
Vespers  among  the  Andes. — Indian  Hospitality. — Latacunga. — Plain 
of  Turubamba. — Glimpse  of  Quito        ....  £07 

CHAPTER   XVL 

QUITO. 

Situation  of  the  Capital. — Delightful  Climate. — History  of  the  City. — 
Modern  Quito. — Houses. — Plazas. — Traces  of  Earthquakes. — Popula- 
tion.— Results  of  Amalgamation. — No  Progress. — Eeligion. — Future 
of  the  City.— Hacienda  of  Chillo  ....  226 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

MOUNTAINS  ABOUT  THE  VALLEY  OF  QUITO. 

Groups  of  Volcanoes. — Quitonian  Peaks. — What  gives  them  their  Inter- 
est.— Chimborazo. — Its  Summit  gained  by  M.  Eemy. — Sangai. — Coto- 
paxi. — Antisana. — Pichincha. — Our  Ascent. — Wild  Scene  from  its 
Summit. — Down  its  Crater.— A  Thunder-storm  within. — Climbing 
out. — Lost  upon  the  Volcano. — Return  to  Quito  .  .  238 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

OVER   THE    EASTERN    CORDILLERA. 

Amazonian  Forest. — Preparations  for  our  Journey. — Our  Artist's  Grave. — 
Religious  Intolerance. — Across  the  Valley. — Mimosas. — Hacienda  of 
Itulcachi. — Tablon. — Sunset  among  the  Andes. — The  Home  of  the 
Incas. — Indigenous  Civilizations. — Condors. — Over  the  Crest. — View 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

of  the  Amazonian  Valley. — First  Waters  of  the  Great  Kiver. — Andean 
Eoad. — Keception  at  Papallacta. — Indian  Bnrial. — Arrangements  for 
our  March  to  the  Napo     .....  Page  252 

CIIAPTEK  XIX. 

BKNEATII      THE      FOREST. 

Leave  Papallacta. — Wretched  Trail. — Torrents  and  Land-slides. — Our 
Camp. — Baeza. — Fording  the  Hondacln. — Separated  from  our  Train. — 
Arehidona  and  Archidonians.  —  Photographing  Indians.  —  A  New 
Train. — Tropical  Forest. — Scarcity  of  Animals. — Sight  of  the  Kio 
Napo  ........  267 

CHAPTER  XX. 

CANOE-VOYAGE    DOWN    THE    RIO    NATO. 

Napo  Valley. — An  Island-liome.— Bees. — Indian  Tribes. — Theii-  Lan- 
guage.— Down  the  Eiver. — Shooting  Eapids. — Santa  Eosa. — An  Indif- 
ferent Crew. — Coco  Village. — Our  "  Zdparo." — Last  View  of  the 
Andes. — Birds  upon  the  Napo.  —  Toucans. — Hummers. — Turtles' 
Eggs. — Sancudos.  —  Camp  upon  a  Playa. — Our  Indians. — Trojiical 
Vegetation. — View  of  the  Maraiion       ....  278 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE      UPPER     AMAZONS. 

The  Eiver. — Origin  of  its  Name. — Pebas. — Marine  Shells.— Geology  of  the 
Valley. — Glacial  Phenomena. — Farewell  to  our  "  Zaparo." — Steam- 
ers upon  the  Amazons. — The  "  Morona." — Maucallacta. — Indians 
Alarmed. — Loreto. — Tabatinga. — The  "Icamiaba." — Fonte  Boa. — 
Teffe. — "  Merry  Christmas  !  " — Arrival  at  Manaos      .  .  294 

CHAPTER   XXIL 

THE      LOWER      AMAZONS. 

Departure  from  Manaos — Our  Steamer. — Monkeys. — Madeira  Eiver. — Else 
and  Fall  of  the  Amazons. — Flooded  Forest. — Igarapcs.— Victoria 
Eegia. — Villa  Bella. — Mountain  Scenery.— Straits  of  Obidos. — Tides. — 
Santarem. — Breaks  in  the  Great  Forest. — Oceanic  Eiver. — Natural 
Canals. — Forest. — Para  Estuary. — Para. — Commerce  of  the  Amazons. — 
Settlement  of  the  Valley. — A  Pleasant  Meeting. — Farewell  to  the 
Tropics       ........  308 


mTEODUOTIOiN. 


SouTU  Amekica  is  a  part  of  the  world  about  whicli  little, 
comparatively,  is  known.  Owing  to  the  disturbed  politi- 
cal state  of  the  country,  commerce  has  sought  other  chan- 
nels, and  enterprise  has  looked  elsewhere  for  its  reward. 
A  large  capitalist  said  to  the  writer,  many  years  ago, 
"  Convince  me  that  money  can  be  made,  and  I  will  put  a 
steamer  upon  the  Magdalena  at  once."  This  was  when 
General  Mosquera  had  lately  been  elected  President  of 
Xew  Granada,  or,  as  it  is  now  called,  Colombia,  and  when 
religious  toleration  had  just  been  secured  in  that  I'epublic. 
At  that  time  the  prospects  for  Colombia,  politically  and 
religiously,  seemed  to  be  brightening,  and  the  students  of 
Williams,  wakeful  to  "  the  signs  of  the  times,"  pledged 
five  hundred  dollars  to  one  of  the  oificers  of  the  College 
to  assist  in  the  exploration  of  the  country.  The  idea  was, 
that  feasible  points  should  be  selected — points  that  could 
be  occupied  as  centres  of  a  higher  civilization  and  better 
type  of  Christianity.  Some  years  later,  one  of  the  stu- 
dents, Frederick  Hicks,  j^roposed  to  realize  this  idea  on 
his  own  responsibility.  After  looking  the  ground  over, 
travelling  somewhat  extensively  both  in  Colombia  and 
Ecuador,  he  returned  to  Panama  and  built  a  commodious 


xvi  INTRODUCTION. 

cliapel,  regarding  that  as  a  point  which  was  central,  and 
from  which  an  inflnence  might  be  exerted  northward  a.s 
well  as  sonthward.  Frequent  communications  from  Mr. 
Ilicks  have  fanned  the  South- American  spirit  on  this 
ground  for  a  long  time,  and  rendered  the  Lyceum  of 
Natural  History  the  more  willing  to  imdertake  an  expe- 
dition in  that  direction ;  so  tliat,  when  Prof.  Orton,  with 
whom  a  correspondence  had  been  opened  by  the  Lyceum 
on  the  subject  of  an  expedition,  expressed  a  decided  pref- 
erence for  South  America,  the  thing  was  at  once  agreed  to. 

It  is  obvious  that  the  expedition,  by  dividing  as  it  did 
at  New  York,  was  able  to  secure  far  more  important  re- 
sults than  could  have  accrued  from  a  joint  expedition.  It 
is  especially  obvious  that  the  branch  of  the  expedition 
which  struck  the  northern  shore  of  the  continent,  explor- 
ing first  the  Orinoco,  and  then  the  Rio  Negro  at  least 
eight  hundred  miles  farther  than  Humboldt  had  done,  has 
performed  a  very  valuable  service  in  the  interest  of  geog- 
raphy, natural  science,  and  ethnology. 

Prof.  Orton  lias  published  an  interesting  account  of 
his  observations  in  connection  with  the  western  branch  of 
the  expedition.  The  northern  branch  now  gives  its  report 
to  the  world.  Some  independent  observations  made  by  a 
member  of  the  western  branch  of  the  expedition  will  also 
accompany  the  pi*esent  volume. 

We  have  no  Royal  Geographical,  Geological,  or  Astro- 
nomical Societies  in  this  country ;  but  no  doubt  many 
curious  eyes  will  be  eager  to  read,  and  many  interested 
ears  to  listen,  while  our  young  friends  tell  the  story  of 
their  explorations,  and  their  adventures  in  a  region  purely 
tropical,  where  every  thing  in  Nature  and  man  differs  so 
widely  from  any  thing  we  see — a  region,  too,  for  the  most 
part,  until  recently,  almost  unknown. 

A.  Hopkins. 

Williams  College,  December,  1870. 


LIFE    AND    NATURE. 


CHAPTER    I. 

FROM    LA    GUAIKA   TO    CARACAS, 

First  View  of  tlie  Tropics. — Silla — La  Guaira. — Fortifications. — Custom- 
house "  Eeasonableness." — Ascent  of  the  Cordillera. — Picturesque 
Scenery. — Arrival  at  Caracas. 

It  was  on  the  afternoon  of  July  27th,  after  a  voyage 
of  twenty-five  days  from  New  York,  that  we  caught  our 
first  glimpse  of  the  tropics.  Far  to  the  southward  could 
be  seen  what  appeared  to  be  a  mass  of  clouds  piled  one 
upon  another,  which,  to  the  unpractised  eye,  differed  not 
from  those  that  encircled  the  entire  heavens.  That  dark 
pile,  whose  outline  was  so  distinctly  marked  far  up  from  the 
hoi'izon,  was  a  branch  of  the  Andes,  that  mighty  range  of 
mountains  which  traverses  our  sphere  almost  from  pole  to 
pole,  and,  although  over  sixty  miles  away,  the  irregular 
contour  of  its  lofty  summit  could  be  distinctly  traced 
upon  the  sky.  We  were  not  permitted  to  watch  long  the 
scene  before  us.  Clouds  soon  gathered  in  around,  and  the 
darkness  of  approaching  night  veiled  the  land  from  our 
sight. 

By  three  o'clock,  next  morning,  we  were  within  five 
miles  of  La  Guaira,  where  we  were  obliged  to  wait  for 
1 


2  FEOM  LA  GUAIKA  TO   CARACAS. 

day  and  a  favorable  breeze  to  carry  iis  into  port.  The 
wind,  as  is  nsual  here  in  the  early  morning,  blew  but 
feebly,  so  that  we  entered  with  some  difficulty.  At 
length  we  gained  the  haven,  and  dropped  anchor  about 
three  hundred  yards  from  shore.  Directly  before  us, 
rising  abruptly  out  of  the  sea,  looms  up  Silla,  the  highest 
peak  of  the  northern  Cordillera  of  the  Andes.  Its  rocky 
and  precipitous  side,  rising  to  the  height  of  nearly  nine 
thousand  feet,  looks  as  if  one  of  those  convulsions  of 
Nature,  which  so  often  shake  this  unstable  land,  Avould 
overthrow  the  towering  heights  and  bury  forever  in  its 
ruins  the  town  La  Guaira,  which  lies  closely  nestled  at 
its  base.  Clinging  to  its  rugged  slope,  far  up  its  side,  is 
a  scanty,  scrubby  growth  of  bushes,  with  here  and  there, 
in  some  ravine,  a  clump  approaching  somewhat  to  the 
magnitude  of  trees.  Interspersed  throughout  this  undei-- 
growth,  and  towering  above  it,  are  cactuses,  some  attain- 
ing the  height  of  thirty  feet,  and  resembling  at  a  distance 
leafless  and  nearly  branchless  trees.  Higher  iip  the 
mountain-side  we  see  only  Alpine  grass,  and  this  in  turn 
gives  place  to  ban-en  rocks  which  crown  the  lofty  summit. 
To  heighten  still  more  the  grandeur  of  the  scene,  the 
morning  is  clear  and  beautiful,  and  the  sun,  as  it  rises  from 
its  ocean-bed,  gilds  the  few  fleecy  clouds  which  float  over 
the  crest  and  along  the  flank  of  Silla,  presenting  a  scene 
not  often  witnessed  at  this  season,  when  clouds  and 
storms  prevail  in  the  tropics.  One  of  the  first  things 
which  will  attract  the  attention  of  the  traveller,  if  he  has 
never  before  visited  the  equatorial  regions,  will  be  the 
palms  scattered  along  the  coast,  and  which  by  their  tall, 
straight  trunks,  thirty  and  forty  feet  in  height,  topped 
with  a  cluster  of  gigantic  and  elegantly-formed  leaA^es, 
will  impress  him  at  once  with  the  strangeness  as  well  as 
beauty  of  vegetation  within  the  tropics. 

The   port,  or,  rather,  roadstead  of  La  Guaira,  opens 


>    (ill  \§  M 


«>     ^ 


lAiilllf 


LA  GUAIKA.  3 

directly  into  the  sea,  with  nothing  to  break  the  force  of  the 
winds  or  waves.  In  the  absence  of  a  breakwater,  which 
might  easily  be  constructed,  wharves  are,  of  course,  useless. 
Vessels  are  therefore  obliged  to  anchor  some  distance 
from  land,  and  unload  their  cargoes  by  means  of  lighters. 
The  position  of  the  town,  wedged  in  between  Mount  Silla 
and  the  sea,  on  a  strip  of  land  scarcely  three  hundred 
yards  in  its  greatest  breadth,  backed  by  an  enormous 
rocky  wall,  reflecting  the  heat  of  the  sun  on  the  red-tiled 
roofs  and  stony  pavements,  renders  it,  according  to  Hum- 
boldt, the  hottest  place  upon  the  earth.  La  Guaira  has  a 
population  of  about  eight  thousand.  There  are  a  theatre 
and  two  churches ;  one  of  the  latter,  the  temple  of  San 
Juan  de  Dios,  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  edifices  in  Vene- 
zuela. As  we  wander  through  the  long,  narroAV  streets 
of  this  antiquated  city,  we  meet  groups  of  every  shade 
of  complexion  and  in  every  variety  of  costume,  from  the 
gayly-dressed  seiiora  in  her  flounces  and  extended  trail, 
with  a  black-laccd  mantilla  over  the  shoulders  and  a  veil 
upon  her  head,  to  the  negro  boasting  of  pants  and  hat, 
and  the  urchin  clad  only  in  Nature's  simple  garb. 

Leaving  the  narrow  and  crowded  streets,  v.'e  clamber 
to  the  fortifications  which  lift  their  battlements  above  the 
town.  A  few  cannon  frown  defiantly  through  the  embra- 
sures and  over  the  parapets.  Soldiers  in  almost  as  many 
different  costumes  as  in  number,  w^ith  "  arms  at  will,"  are 
lazily  guai-ding  the  works.  From  this  stand-point,  we 
have  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs  ;  but  we  can- 
not tarry  long,  for  twilight  is  already  deepening,  and  we 
are  reminded  that  in  the  tropics  darkness  quickly  suc- 
ceeds. We  therefore  hastily  descend  to  our  hotel,  stop- 
ping for  a  moment  to  view  the  evening  muster  of  the  sol- 
diers within  the  fortifications  that  line  the  shore.  Tliese 
works  are  quite  formidable  as  well  as  those  overlooking 
the  town  on  the  mountain-side,  and  if  well  manned  would 


4  FROM  LA  GUAIEA  TO   CAKAGAS. 

render  tlie  place  impregnable  to  an  approach  from  the  sea, 
-which  is  the  only  side  upon  which  an  attack  can  well  be 
made. 

We  cared  not  to  protract  our  stay  on  the  hot_and  arid 
coast  of  La  Guaira.  We  were  also  admonished,  by  the 
death  from  yellow  fever,  the  day  before  we  arrived,  of  one 
of  om*  countrymen  who  had  been  for  some  years  a  resi- 
dent of  the  place,  that  it  would  not  be  well  for  us  to 
remain  long  where  that  epidemic  was  raging.  We  there- 
fore determined  to  leave  on  the  morrow  for  the  more  ge- 
nial and  salubrious  clime  of  the  table-land  of  Caracas. 
That  beautiful  and  fertile  valley  is  situated  directly  over 
the  mountain  from  La  Guaira,  at  an  elevation  of  some 
four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  There  are  two  roads 
leading  to  it  from  the  coast,  the  shorter  but  more  precipi- 
tous of  which  is  a  mule-path,  leading  over  the  summit 
between  the  peak  of  Naiguanata  and  the  Ccrro  de  Avila, 
the  two  forming  what  is  called  the  Silla,  or  saddle,  of 
Caracas.  The  other,  and  the  one  we  preferred,  is  a  car- 
riage-road which  reaches  the  capital  by  a  circuitous 
route  of  fourteen  miles.  The  old  road,  which  was  in  use 
at  the  time  of  Humboldt's  visit  to  the  country,  was  be- 
tween the  two  we  have  mentioned.  Before  allowed  to 
take  our  departure  for  Caracas,  we  were  what  they  termed 
subjected  to  the  inspections  and  extortions  of  custom- 
liouse  officials.  Our  arms,  ammunition,  and  some  other  ar- 
ticles, which  were  pronounced  subject  to  duty,  they  were 
willing,  in  consideration  of  the  object  for  which  we  vis- 
ited their  country,  to  allow  to  pass  upon  the  payment  of 
what  they  termed  the  reasonable  amount  of  forty  dollars, 
although  they  claimed  that  much  more  was  rightly  due 
them.  Such  "  reasonableness "  we  hope  it  may  be  our 
good  fortune  not  often  to  meet  Avith.  Our  coach,  with 
three  abreast,  at  the  appointed  hour,  is  at  the  door  of  our 
Ijotcl,  oiirselves  and  baggage  stowed  within,  and  all  is 


ASCENT  OF  THE   COKDILLEEA.  5 

ready.  It  is  two  p.  m.  as  wc  take  our  departure.  The 
rays  of  a  tropical  sun  pour  down  without  mercy,  and  arc 
reverberated  by  every  stone  and  rock  until  the  very  air 
we  breathe  seems  as  if  drawn  from  a  heated  furnace.  We 
lay  aside  our  outer  garments  and  make  ourselves  as  com- 
fortable as  circumstances  will  permit.  The  road  leads 
out  of  the  town  on  the  north,  skirting  the  base  of  tlie 
mountains,  between  which  and  the  sea  there  is  for  some 
distance  scarcely  room  for  the  coach  to  pass ;  then  the 
space  widens,  and  we  find  ourselves  riding  through  the 
village  of  Marquitia  with  its  beautiful  cocoa-nut  grove ; 
then  turning  up  the  mountain-slope,  we  wind  along  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Quebrada  de  Tipe,  a  large  ravine,  the 
aspect  of  the  landscape  varying  at  every  tui-n.  Here  the 
maguey,  a  jDlant  with  agave  leaves,  finds  its  native  home 
and  adorns  by  its  unsurpassed  beauty  tliese  rugged  wilds. 
Its  lofty  arboreal  form,  with  its  thousands  of  drooping 
liliaceous  flowers,  presents  a  sight  of  which  the  traveller 
never  wearies. 

As  we  continue  our  journey,  slowly  vrinding  up  the 
zigzag  road,  we  find  ourselves  rising  into  a  purer  atmos- 
phere. We  breathe  more  freely,  and  no  longer  feel  that 
languor  and  debility  experienced  while  amid  the  burning- 
sands  of  the  ferra  calieyite,  or  hot  land  below.  Reaching 
what  is  called  the  half-way  station,  we  stop  and  change 
horses.  There  are  two  or  three  other  wayside  inns  we  have 
passed,  and  which  afibrd  resting-places  to  the  traveller  and 
trains  of  animals  that  daily  pass  over  the  road  between  La 
Guaira  and  Caracas.  Our  gai*ments,  removed  at  the  outset 
of  our  journey,  we  now  gladly  replace,  for  we  have  at- 
tained an  altitude  of  nearly  five  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea.  Above  us  and  along  the  summit  heavy  clouds  are  gath- 
ering, and,  as  they  come  sweeping  down  the  mountain-side, 
threaten  to  soon  envelop  us  in  their  gloom.  From  this 
point,  the  view,  Avhich  the  traveller  has  spread  out  before 


6  FEOM  LA  GUAIKA  TO   CAEACAS. 

him,  is  one  of  surpassing  loveliness  and  grandeur.  To  his 
left  and  far  below  he  beholds  the  terminus  of  the  deep 
ravine  of  the  Quebrada  de  Tipe,  which  running  down  the 
mountain-slope,  spreads  out  at  its  base  into  a  plain  of  exu- 
berant fertility,  covered  with  beautiful  estates  of  growing 
corn,  bananas,  and  other  productions,  sustained  by  irriga- 
tion. The  extension  of  this  plain,  or,  rather,  low  ridge  of 
land,  into  the  sea,  forms  the  promontory  of  Cabo  Blanco, 
whose  white,  barren  shores  glisten  in  the  distance. 
Farther  to  the  right,  and  almost  beneath  his  feet,  lie  the 
village  of  Marquitia  and  its  grove  of  cocoa-nut  trees, 
which  so  impresses  the  traveller  as  he  approaches  from 
the  ocean,  Lookinoj  to  the  right  and  southward  are  seen 
vessels  in  the  port,  riding  at  their  anchorage.  And  there 
is  La  Guaira,  encircled  by  the  sea  on  the  one  side,  and  by 
an  amphithcatral  wall  of  rock  on  the  other,  while  beyond 
the  ocean  stretches  to  the  horizon,  striped  by  lines  of 
billows  which  come  I'olling  in  toward  the  shore. 

From  the  half-way  station  the  ascent  is  much  easier, 
owing  to  the  sinuosities  of  the  road,  and  the  less  precipi- 
tousness  of  the  Cordillera  as  we  approach  its  summit. 
The  scenery  also  grows  wilder  and  vegetation  less  luxu- 
riant as  we  ascend.  The  clouds  through  which  we  pass 
give  forth  a  drizzling  rain,  and  the  increasing  cold  renders 
our  overcoats  necessary  for  comfort.  Respecting  the 
change  of  temperature  experienced  in  passing  from  the 
tierra  caliente  to  the  tierra  fr'io,  as  the  high  elevations  are 
called,  one  is  liable  to  form  a  wrong  estimate  :  for  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  traveller  in  his  ascent  passes  in  a 
few  hours  from  the  burning  sands  of  the  tropical  coast  to 
an  altitude  of  some  seven  thousand  feet,  the  highest  point 
of  the  range  over  which  the  road  passes.  This  elevation, 
although  not  great,  has  a  temperature  so  cool,  that,  in 
entering  it  suddenly  from  an  extreme  of  heat,  there  is  ex- 
perienced a  sensation  that  leads  to  an  erroneous  conclusion. 


PICTUEESQUE  SCENEEY.  7 

The  same  may  be  said  m  regard  to  the  temperature  of  La 
Guaira,  The  thermometer  seldom  rises  above  ninety  de- 
grees Fahrenheit ;  yet,  as  the  variation  daring  the  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  even  from  one  season  to  another,  is  com- 
paratively slight,  one  can  easily  conceive  that  the  quantity 
of  heat  received  must  be  very  great.  The  intense  suiFering, 
therefore,  in  the  tropics,  results,  as  Humboldt  observes,  not 
from  an  excess  of  heat,  but  from  its  long  continuance  at  a 
high  temperature. 

The  summit  of  the  Cordillera  is  at  length  reached,  and 
over  it  we  ride  rapidly,  and  commence  the  descent  at  a 
still  greater  pace.  The  first  view  of  Caracas,  which  lies 
just  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  where  the  road  makes 
its  descent  into  the  valley,  is  obtained  at  no  great  distance. 
It  is  neai'ly  dark  as  we  enter  tlie  capital  of  Venezuela. 
Our  lumbering,  three-horse  vehicle  rattles  over  the  rough, 
stony  pavement  of  the  streets,  and  stops  in  front  of  a  po- 
sada,  kept  by  Madame  St.  Amand,  who  welcomes  us  in 
English,  and  shows  us  at  once  to  a  fine  suite  of  rooms, 
which,  like  all  the  apartments  of  Jhe  house,  open  upon  a 
court-yard  in  the  centre,  containing  beautiful  shrubbery 
and  a  maguey-plant  in  full  bloom. 

Ul^on  the  evening  of  our  arrival,  we  Avere  met  hj  Mr. 
Wilson,  the  minister  from  our  country,  who  gave  xis  a 
most  cordial  reception.  We  were  also  happy  in  making 
the  acquaintance  of  Profs.  Ernst  and  Gearing,  two  dis- 
tinguished German  naturalists.  The  rich  and  varied  flora 
of  the  tropics,  comparatively  but  little  known  to  the  bota- 
nist, had  enticed  Mr.  Ernst  from  Europe  to  this  his  adopted 
country.  For  three  years  he  had  been  engaged  in  his 
favorite  pursuit,  confining  his  researches  to  the  district  of 
Caracas  and  vicinity.  During  that  time  he  had  collected 
and  classified  over  three  thousand  species  of  plants,  Avhich 
is  more  than  twice  the  entire  number  described  in  the 
Natural  History  of  New  York.     The  result  of  his  labors 


S  FEOM  LA  GUAIEA  TO  CARACAS. 

will  in  due  time  be  given  to  the  public,  and  will  consti- 
tute, if  we  except  the  published  reports  of  Humboldt  and 
Bonpland,  with  those  of  some  minor  travellers,  the  first 
botanical  work  that  has  ever  been  issued  on  that  region. 
Mr.  Gearing  had  been  in  the  country  about  a  year,  and 
had  succeeded  in  making  a  most  valuable  collection  in  the 
department  of  ornithology.  The  researches  of  these  gen- 
tlemen in  Northern  Venezuela  will  add  much  to  the  cause 
of  science,  and  increase  largely  the  facilities  for  others 
who  may  desire  to  make  investigations  and  collections  in 
the  natural  history  of  this  country.  Often  did  we  in  the 
course  of  our  travels  have  occasion  to  be  grateful  for  in- 
formation imparted  to  us,  as  well  as  many  valuable  sug- 
gestions received  from  them  during  the  short  time  we  re- 
mained in  the  city. 


CHAPTER     II 


CARACAS 


Valley  of  Caracas.— Site  of  the  City.— Houses.— Cathedral.— Public  Build- 
ings.— Pulperias. — Earthquake  of  1812. — People. — Dress. — Education. 
— Literature. — Eeligion. — Cemeteries. 

Iisr  the  southern  portion  of  Colombia,*  the  Andes,  which 
sweep  along  the  western  coast  of  the  continent,  through 
Chili,  Peru,  and  Ecuador,  witli  a  breadth  of  sixty  to  four 
hundred  miles,  yet  with  a  rigid  jDreservatiou  of  their  unity, 
divide  into  three  distinct  ranges.  The  most  western  of 
these  branches  runs  close  along  the  Pacific  shore  of  Colom- 
bia, and  enters  the  Isthmus  of  Panama ;  the  second  trav- 
erses the  centre  of  the  republic,  until  it  touches  the  shores 
of  the  Caribbean  Sea  ;  the  third  takes  a  more  easterly 
direction,  and,  xipon  finding  the  ocean,  skirts  the  northern 
shore  of  Venezuela,  terminating  at  the  delta  of  the  Ori- 
noco. One  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  this  re- 
markable and  unparalleled  mountain-system,  aside  from  its 
volcanoes,  is  its  lofty  table-lands  and  beautiful  valleys, 
lying  between  its  longitudinal  ranges.  Far  to  the  south 
we  find  the  Thibetan  highlands  of  Bolivia,  lying  about 
the  shores  of  Lake  Titicaca ;  under  the  equator  the  beauti- 
ful plains  of  Quito;  and,  advancing  still  farther  north,  we 

*  Called  New  Granada,  until  September  20,  1861,  when  a  new  consti- 
tution was  adopted,  and  the  name  changed  to  United  States  of  Colombia. 


10  CARACAS. 

find  ourselves  surrounded  by  the  smiling  vales  and  ver- 
dant plains  of  Bogota.  If,  from  the  tripartition  cf  the 
system  in  Colombia,  we  journey  along  the  eastern  branch 
until  we  reach  the  sea,  then  follow  the  range  for  one  hun- 
dred miles,  as  it  sweeps  along  the  coast,  bathing  its  feet 
in  the  waters  of  the  Caribbean,  we  find  ourselves  in  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  valleys  that  fancy  could  depict. 

Here,  lying  between  two  parallel  ranges  of  the  Cordil- 
lera, at  an  elevation  of  nearly  three  thousand  feet  (2,924) 
above  the  Atlantic,  is  the  picturesque  valley  of  Caracas. 
This  plateau  runs  east  and  west,  having  a  length  of  ten 
miles,  and  a  breadth  of  six  or  seven.  On  the  south  is  a 
range  of  hills  which  separates  it  from  the  valley  of  Tui, 
while  on  the  north  are  the  high  mountains  of  Silla  and 
Avila  of  the  coast-chain.  The  Rio  Guaira,  taking  its  rise 
in  the  mountains  of  Higuerote  on  the  west,  flows  through 
the  valley,  irrigating  the  soil,  and  maintaining  a  most 
luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation.  The  climate  is  that  of 
perpetual  spring.  What  place  can  we  conceive  to  be 
more  delightful  than  that  where  the  temperature  of  the 
day  is  never  above  eighty  degrees,  and  at  night  seldom 
below  sixty;*  where  vegetation  is  always  green,  flowers 
ever  blooming,  and  fruit  in  the  greatest  abundance  and 
variety  at  all  seasons  ?  Here,  growing  side  by  side,  are 
the  banana,  the  cocoa-nut,  pine-apple,  orange,  grape,' 
peach,  Indian  corn,  and  strawberry.  There  is  no  particu- 
lar season  for  seed-time  or  harvest.  Fields  of  maize  may 
be  seen  in  every  stage  of  growth,  from  the  young  and 
tender  blade  just  shooting  upward  into  light,  to  the  full 
and  ripened  ear  of  harvest-time.  From  the  same  shrub 
or  tree  maybe  enjoyed  the  fragrance  of  its  flowers  and 
the  flavor  of  its  fruit. 

Not  less  beautiful  is  Nature  in  her  wildness  than 
when  under  the  controlling  influence  of  domestic  culture. 

*  The  average  annual  temperature  is  Yl°. 


Jill  III  1 1 1 


m# 


i^f 


iill'.'lil;; 


SITE  OF  CITY.  11 

Trees  of  magnificent  growth,  festooned  -with  hanging 
moss  and  pendant  vines,  their  trunks  and  giant  limbs 
covered  with  parasitic  plants  of  rich,  brilliant  hues,  stand 
alone  in  their  majestic  grandeur,  or,  by  their  united  crowns 
of  fadeless  green,  bedecked  with  flowers  of  rare  delicacy 
and  beauty,  form  picturesque  bowers  and  arcades.  Tow- 
ering and  crested  palms,  with  their  plumes  wafted  by  the 
breezes,  adorn  alike  the  forest  and  the  plain  with  their 
stately,  graceful  foi-ms.  Giant  vegetation,  in  that  variety 
and  beauty  elsewhere  imknown,  springs  up  on  every  side, 
while  amid  and  beneath  all — 

"  There  spring  the  hving  herbs,  pi-ofusely  wild, 
O'er  all  the  deep-green  earth,  beyond  the  power 
Of  botanists  to  number  up  their  tribe." 

Enclosing  this  beautiful  valley,  are  lofty,  rugged,  and 
barren  mountain-cliffs,  which  break  the  sti'ength  of  the 
equinoctial  winds,  and  shut  out  the  burning  atmosphere 
of  the  jDlain  on  the  coast.  The  contrast  presented  by 
these  barren  ranges,  and  the  stern,  forbidding  aspect  of 
their  chilling  peaks  which  rise  into  the  region  of  the 
clouds,  only  add  to  the  loveliness  of  the  valley  which  lies 
encircled  within  their  embrace'  Here  the  sweeping  pesti- 
lence is  seldom  known,  for  those  lofty  Cordilleras,  which 
serve  as  a  barrier  to  the  winds,  also  prevent  an  approach 
of  those  malignant  diseases  which  are  the  scourges  of 
southern  ports.  It  seems  scarcely  possible  that  a  spot 
within  the  equatorial  regions,  less  than  five  miles  in  a  di- 
rect line  from  where  the  earth  is  parched  by  the  burning 
heat  of  a  tropical  sun,  could  ;gossess  such  a  cool,  salubri- 
ous climate,  and  the  luxuries  of  both  temperate  and  torrid 
zones. 

At  the  western  extremity  of  the  valley,  situated  upon 
a  steep  slope  which  inclines  toward  the  southeast,  is 
Caracas,  the  capital  of  Venezuela.     At  the  base  of  this 


12  CAEACAS. 

declivity,  skirting  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  runs  the 
Rio  Guaira,  while  crowding  the  town  on  the  west  are 
rocky  and  sterile  hills,  which  present  a  wild  and  gloomy 
aspect.  Rising  abruptly  on  the  north,  is  the  Cerro  de 
Avila,  down  whose  rugged  slopes  pour  rushing  torrents 
into  the  streets  of  the  city,  whenever  a  storm  sweeps  over 
the  valley.  Why  Caracas  was  built  in  this  wretched 
corner,  when  so  large  and  beautiful  a  plain  lies  spread  out 
before  it,  we  cannot  conceive.  Could  the  town  haA' e  been 
placed  farther  to  the  southward  amid  the  charming  sce- 
nery of  the  valley,  it  would  have  occupied  a  site  in  every 
way  far  preferable  to  its  present  position.  Caracas  in  its 
greatest  length  is  about  one  and  a  half  miles,  and  is  of 
nearly  an  equal  breadth.  Its  area,  although  small,  has 
crowded  within  its  limits  a  population  of  fifty  thousand 
inhabitants.  Intersecting  the  city  are  deep  ravines,  some 
of  which  are  dry,  others  the  channels  of  small  rivers,  the 
Catuche,  Caroata,  and  Arauco,  which  descend  from  the 
mountains.  The  ghastly  appearance  of  these  immense 
gullies,  with  their  unsightly  weeds  and  bushes,  impresses 
the  traveller  still  more  unfavorably  with  the  situation  of 
the  town.  From  tlie  Rio  Catuche  the  city  is  supplied 
with  water,  which  is  brought  from  a  reservoir  about  a 
mile  up  the  stream  on  the  slope  of  Avila,  and  furnished 
the  inhabitants  at  public  and  private  fountains. 

Caracas,  like  all  Spanish- American  towns,  is  regularly 
built,  with  narrow  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles.  These  are  Avell  paved,  and  slope  toward  the  cen- 
ti"e,  thus  making  a  sort  of  canal,  which  dispenses  with 
the  need  of  gutters  at  the  sides.  The  sidewalks,  Avhich 
are  found  only  on  the  jjrincipal  streets,  are  flagged,  and 
scarcely  wide  enough  to  allow  two  persons  to  pass.  The 
houses  enclose  pleasant  court-yards,  are  mostly  one  story 
in  height,  and  solidly  built,  so  as  better  to  resist  the 
shocks   of  earthquakes,   which  are    frequent   along  this 


HOUSES.  13 

coast.  Inside  the  court-yard,  along  the  upper  story, 
where  such  exists,  runs  an  open  gallery,  while  a  corre- 
sponding veranda  generally  extends  outside,  along  the 
front  of  the  building.  The  roofs  are  tiled,  and  project  far 
over  the  walls  of  the  houses,  shading  the  narrow  streets, 
and  afibrding  protection  to  the  pedestrian  from  the  sun 
and  rains.  The  windows,  unglazed,  and  covered  with  an 
iron  grating,  protrude  into  the  street,  giving  the  house  a 
gloomy,  prison-like  aspect.  The  only  way  of  ingress  and 
egress,  the  one  used  alike  by  man  and  beast,  is  through  a 
large  archway,  Avhich  leads  into  the  court-yard.  The 
massive  folding-doors,  with  their  clumsy  iron  hinges, 
bolts,  and  fastenings,  seem  as  if  made  for  a  fortress.  The 
house  internally  is  as  scantily  and  antiquely  furnished  as 
the  exterior  indicates.  The  parlor  of  the  Venezuelian 
boasts  no  carpet  upon  its  brick  floor;  the  walls  are 
scantily  ornamented  with  a  few  small  pictures;  one  or 
two  cane-bottomed  sofas,  some  plain  chairs,  and  still 
plainer  tables,  complete  the  furniture,  useful  and  ornamen- 
tal. The  house  has  no  chimney,  the  smoke  and  steam 
finding  their  exit  from  beneath  the  raised  roof. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  Grand  Plaza,  or  great  square 
of  the  city,  stands  the  new  cathedral,  the  largest  and 
finest  architectural  structure  in  Caracas.  It  was  founded 
nearly  three  centuries  ago,  but  has  since  been  modernized, 
being  completed  and  consecrated  during  our  visit  at  the 
capital.  It  is  two  hundred  and  fifty-feet  in  length,  by  one 
hundred  and  fifty  in  breadth,  and  is  supported  by  two 
lines  of  gigantic  columns.  The  floor  is  a  marble  mosaic, 
while  the  walls  are  hung  with  tablets  bearing  Latin  in- 
scrijjtions,  and  with  paintings  illustrative  of  Scriptural 
history,  or  of  Roman  Catholic  mythology.  This  struct- 
ure, although  the  pride  of  Caraquenians,  will  compare 
but  unfavorably  with  similar  ecclesiastical  efibrts  in  coun- 
tries where  civilization  has  made  greater  progress;  but 


14  CARACAS. 

we  must  consider  that  it  has  been  erected  by  a  people 
struggling  against  all  the  evils  which  beset  this  unfortu- 
nate republic. 

The  government-house,  which  stands  on  the  side  of 
the  plaza  opposite  the  cathedral,  presents  nothing  attrac- 
tive. A  Yenczuelian  flag  floating  from  a  short  staff",  and 
a  few  soldiers  guarding  the  front  and  entrance,  alone  indi- 
cate that  it  is  the  cai)itol  of  the  republic.  On  the  south 
of  the  plaza  is  a  university,  founded  in  1'721,  which  ranks 
as  the  finest  institution  of  learning  in  the  country.  The 
north  side  of  the  square  is  lined  with  dwellings  and  pul- 
perias^  or  shops.  A  Venezuelian  store  is  one  of  the  curi- 
osities of  the  country.  The  low,  narrow  room  has  two 
doors,  for  the  admission  of  persons  and  light.  The  stock 
of  the  pxdpero  embraces,  in  kind,  if  not  in  quantity,  sufli- 
cient  to  establish  a  country  fair.  A  few  pieces  of  calico 
and  cotton  cloth  must  occupy  a  prominent  position  upon 
his  shelves.  He  must  have  groceries  of  CA^ery  description, 
including  haras,  sardines,  sausages,  a  few  rounds  of  cas- 
sava^ the  bread  of  the  country  we  have  yet  to  describe, 
butter  brought  from  Europe,  some  strips  of  dried  beef,  a 
coil  of  native  tobacco  resembling  tarred  rope,  some  bot- 
tles of  Madeira  and  German  wines,  and  also  aguardiente^ 
an  intoxicating  drink  made  from  the  fermented  juice  of 
the  sugar-cane.  Then  there  are  articles  of  hardware, 
such  as  nails,  knives,  and  machetes,  a  huge  knife  with  a 
blade  nearly  two  feet  in  length,  the  indispensable  imple- 
ment of  the  Spaniard.  A  dozen  stalks  of  sugar-canes,  a 
few  bundles  of  finely-split  wood  for  fuel,  and  an  armful  of 
green  corn,  occupy  the  corners.  These,  with  a  thousand 
other  articles,  render  the  collection  as  unique  as  a  college 
museum. 

There  are  scenes  of  a  different  nature  that  will  interest 
the  traveller  as  he  wanders  through  the  city.  On  every 
side  will  be  seen  traces  of  that  tei-rible  earthquake  which 


EAETHQUAKE  OF  1812.  15 

destroyed  the  town  in  1812,  and  buried  in  its  ruins  over 
ten  thousand  persons.  Walls  of  buildings,  overgrown 
with  vines  and  parasitic  plants,  still  stand  as  silent  wit- 
nesses of  that  dreadful  catastrophe.  It  is  sad  to  reflect 
that  this  beautiful  valley  should  ever  have  been  the  scene 
of  such  a  fearful  visitation,  and  a  living  sepulchre  to  thou- 
sands of  its  inhabitants.  The  frequent  threatenings  of 
these  convulsions  of  Nature  tend  to  keep  the  people  in  a 
constant  state  of  alarm  for  their  safety.  Happy,  indeed, 
is  the  man  who  is  not  distrustful  of  the  soil  upon  which 
he  lives.  Among  the  few  buildings  which  survived  the 
general  destruction  of  the  city,  were  the  government- 
house,  the  old  cathedral,  and  the  church  of  Altagracia, 
which  is  not  far  from  the  Grand  Plaza.  The  last  men- 
tioned, however,  bears  evidence  of  the  powerful  agency 
which  desolated  the  place.  Its  massive  walls  withstood 
vminjured  the  violence  of  the  shock,  but  its  enormous 
tower,  about  one  third  of  the  distance  from  the  top,  was 
twisted  and  jutted  over  the  lower  part,  where  it  will 
probably  remain  until  another  earthquake  shall  complete 
its  downfall. 

The  destruction  of  Caracas  occurred  upon  the  26th  of 
March,  1812,  Ascension  Day,  or  Holy  Thursday  of  the 
Church.  The  country  was  engaged  in  a  desperate  strug- 
gle for  its  independence,  and  the  ignorant  and  supersti- 
tious people,  with  their  fears  augmented  by  the  priests, 
whose  sympathies  were  with  the  mother-country,  were 
led  to  regard  the  calamity  as  the  vengeance  of  Heaven 
for  their  attempts  to  sever  themselves  from  tlie  crown  of 
Spain.  The  day  is  represented  as  perfectly  calm,  with 
not  a  cloud  in  the  heavens.  Although  at  long  intervals 
quite  severe  shocks  had  been  felt  at  Caracas,  an  almost 
entire  immunity  from  any  of  destructive  force  had  in- 
spired a  feeling  of  security,  and  led  the  people  to  believe 
that,  in  their  elevated  valley,  they  were  safe  from  such 


16  CARACAS. 

fearful  visitations,  as  frequently  laid  in  ruins  the  cities  of 
other  districts,*  Xo  one  had  any  apprehension  of  danger. 
The  festivities  of  Holy  Thursday  had  filled  the  churches. 
Suddenly  the  earth  ti'eniLlcs.  The  bells  of  the  churches 
toll  as  though  "  rung  by  an  invisible  hand."  .  Caracas  is 
doomed.  For  four  seconds  the  ground  quakes,  then  rocks 
with  a  sea-like  movement,  and  in  six  seconds  moi'e  the 
city  lies  heaped  in  ruins.  Heavy  thunderings  rolled  be- 
neath the  earth,  and  rocks  were  hurled  from  the  sides  of 
Silla.  Of  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  ten  thousand  were 
killed  upon  the  first  overthrow  of  the  city,  while  thou- 
sands afterward  perished  from  injuries,  hunger,  and  ex- 
posure. Beneath  the  walls  of  San  Carlos  six  hundred 
soldiers  were  mustering.  The  barracks,  says  a  chronicler, 
hurled  from  their  base,  left  not  a  man  of  the  regiment. 
Terrible  scenes  has  our  earth  afibrded;  but  none  more 
fearful  than  Caracas  presented  when  the  clouds  of  dust, 
which  at  first  veiled  the  ruins,  lifted  from  the  fated  city. 
Tlie  imagination  alone  can  picture  that  scene  of  ghastly 
ruins,  terror,  and  consternation.  So  great  was  the  num- 
ber of  victims,  that,  interment  being  impossible,  for  days 
the  survivors  were  emjiloyed  in  collecting  and  burning 
the  bodies  u-pon  vast  funeral-pja-es.  Humboldt,  in  his 
graphic  account  of  the  fearful  calamity,  alluding  to  the 
tolling  of  the  bells  by  the  short  tremor  which  pi-eceded 
the  final  shock,  pens  the  following  thrilling  sentence :  "  It 
was  the  hand  of  God,  and  not  the  hand  of  man,  which 
rang  that  funeral-dirge."  f  This  passage  possesses  a  pecu- 
liar interest.  While  illustrating  how  powerfully  Hum- 
boldt was  impressed  by  tlie  contemplation  of  this  phe- 

*  The  earthquake  of  Caracas  was  the  cuhnination  of  a  series  of  con- 
vulsions during  the  years  1811-'13,  felt  through  the  West  Indies  and 
over  a  large  portion  of  the  Mississippi  Valley. 

f  "^s  war  Gottes,  nicJd  Mettschenhand^  die  hier  zitm  Grabgeluule 
zwang. " 


PEOPLE.  27 

nomenon,  it  also  shows,  as  Agassiz,  in  an  address  given 
upon  the  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  great  German 
naturalist,  has  remarked,  that  Humboldt  was  a  believer  in 
a  personal,  superintending  Providence.  This  fact  has 
been  so  often  denied,  and  Humboldt  ca^cu  pronounced  an 
atheist,  that  we  feel  the  cause  of  truth  justifies  us  in 
making  this  slight  digression. 

Dr.  Tschudi,  in  his  "  Travels  in  Peru,  "  uses  the  follow- 
ing language  in  illustrating  the  effects  of  an  earthquake 
upon  the  residents  of  the  country  and  upon  travellers : 
"  No  familiarity  with  the  phenomenon  can  blunt  the  feel- 
ings. The  inhabitant  of  Lima,  Avho  from  childhood  has 
frequently  witnessed  these  convulsions  of  Nature,  is  roused 
from  his  sleep  by  the  shock,  and  rushes  from  his  apart- 
ment with  the  cry  of  '■llisericordia  ! '  The  foreigner  from 
the  north  of  Eui'ope,  who  knows  nothing  of  earthquakes 
but  by  description,  waits  with  impatience  to  feel  the 
movement  of  the  earth,  and  longs  to  hear  with  his  own 
ear  the  subterranean  sounds  which  he  has  hitherto  con- 
sidered fabulous.  With  levity  he  treats  the  apprehen- 
sion of  a  coming  convulsion,  and  laughs  at  the  fears  of 
the  natives  ;  but,  as  soon  as  his  wish  is  gratified,  he  is 
terror-stricken,  and  is  involuntarily  prompted  to  seek 
safety  in  flight. " 

The  inhabitants  of  Caracas,  ethnologically  and  so- 
cially, present  but  few  interesting  features.  The  entire 
population  of  the  city,  as  near  as  can  be  estimated,  is  fifty 
thousand ;  while  that  of  the  whole  republic,  including  In- 
dians, is  one  and  a  half  millions.  It  consists  of  whites, 
mainly  of  Spanish  extraction,  negroes,  and  the  various 
classes  produced  by  the  intermingling  of  these.  The 
descendants  of  the  foreign  element,  of  whatever  color,  are 
denominated  Creoles, 

The  negroes  were  formerly  kept  in  slavery ;  but  by 
virtue  of  a  law  which  compelled  the  master  to  give  free- 


1 8  CARACAS. 

dom  to  a  slave  wlio  should  offer  liim  three  hundred  dol- 
lars ;  by  the  voluntary  bestowme'iit  of  liberty,  which  was 
common  ;  and  by  the  proclamation  of  1854,  they  have  all 
become  emancipated.  The  Indians  we  shall  have  occa- 
sion to  speak  of,  when  our  journeyings  lead  us  Avhere  man 
as  well  as  beast  exists  in  a  state  of  nature. 

In  dress,  the  upper  class  follow  the  European  styles  ; 
the  man  of  modest  pretensions  considers  himself  equipped 
when  supplied  with  pants,  camisa,  which  is  worn  outside 
of  the  former,  wool  or  panama  hat,  and  leather  sandals. 
The  children  of  the  lower  class  are  not  inconvenienced  by 
clothing,  until  they  have  attained  the  age  of  eight  or  ten 
years,  when  a  camisa  constitutes  their  outfit. 

Education,  although  provided  for  by  law,  is  sadly 
neglected  among  all  classes.  Besides  the  university  in 
Caracas,  already  referred  to,  there  has  also  been  founded 
a  military  academy.  The  need  of  books  is  much  felt. 
None  are  printed  in  Venezuela,  and  the  foreign  supply  is 
small  and  not  of  the  highest  order.  It  is,  however,  grati- 
fying to  state  that  much  has  been  done  of  late  to  meet 
this  want  of  the  people,  and  that  no  country  has  contrib- 
itted  more  to  supply  the  deficiency  than  our  own.  School- 
books,  as  well  as  others,  published  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage and  sent  out  from  the  United  States,  have  been 
widely  circulated,  and  are  now  doing  much  toward  the 
advancement  of  educational  interests  in  Venezuela.  There 
are  in  Caracas  two  printing-presses,  each  of  which  issues 
a  daily  newspaper  on  a  single  sheet.  Much  difficulty  is 
experienced  in  preserving  records,  books,  or  papers,  owing 
to  the  ravages  of  termites,  or  "  white  ants,"  as  they  are 
called,  which  possess  an  insatiable  appetite  for  literature. 
This  was  more  particularly  bi'ought  to  our  notice  after- 
ward at  Valencia,  where  we  found  it  difficult  to  procure, 
for  the  use  of  our  herbarium,  any  papers  which  had  not 
been  more  or  less  damaged  by  these  voracious  insects. 


EELIGION— CEMETEKIES.  19 

There  are  eighteen  churches  in  Caracas  and  three  con- 
vents ;  the  last  are  merely  tolerated,  as  no  monastic  in- 
stitutiong  are  permitted  by  law  in  Yeneziiela.  Here,  as  in 
every  Roman  Catholic  country,  the  Sabbath  is  but  little 
regarded.  The  services  in  the  churches,  the  same  as  those 
for  the  other  days  of  the  week,  continue  for  one  hour, 
from  five  to  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  the  religious 
exercises  of  the  day  are  over.  All  places  of  amusement 
and  public  resort  are  then  opened  and  thronged  as  they 
are  at  no  other  time.  The  card  and  billiard  tables  are  fre- 
quented, but  the  cock-fights  and  bull-fights  call  together 
the  greatest  crowds.  Sabbath  afternoons  are  especially 
consecrated  to  the  latter  amusement.  The  cock-fight 
partakes  more  of  a  domestic  character,  and  there  is  scarce- 
ly a  family  that  has  not  its  cockpit.  All  day  long  the 
shops  are  opened  for  trafiic,  mules  and  donkeys  laden 
with  merchandise  wend  their  way  through  the  streets, 
soldiers  parade  the  city,  and,  to  destroy  still  more  if  pos- 
sible the  quietness  and  sanctity  of  the  Sabbath,  the  bells 
are  in  an  eternal  jingle.  In  the  evening  the  theatre 
aiFords  the  closing  entertainment  of  the  day. 

Caracas  has  six  Catholic  cemeteries,  the  largest,  which 
is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  South  America,  is  north  of  the 
city,  upon  the  slope  at  the  base  of  Cerro  de  Avila.  It  is 
enclosed  by  a  high  wall,  on  the  inside  of  which  are  niches, 
or  receptacles  for  the  dead.  Upon  the  payment  of  a  cer- 
tain sum,  cofiins  are  allowed  to  be  placed  within,  where  they 
may  remain  three  years.  At  the  expiration  of  that  time 
they  are  taken,  if  not  removed  before  by  friends,  and  the 
bones  cast  in  the  camera^  or  common  sepulchre.  Those 
who  do  not  desii'e,  or  cannot  afford  for  their  deceased  rela- 
tives, these  funereal  niches,  bury  at  once  within  the  en- 
closure of  the  cemetery.  There  are  also  two  Protestant 
burial-grounds,  German  and  English,  situated  south  of 
the  city. 


CHAPTER    III 


EXCUESIOIS^S     ABOUT     CARACAS. 


Trip  to  the  Cave  of  Encantado. — KaOroad. — Thunder-storm. — Petard. — A 
Hopeful  Student. — Experience  at  a  Posada. — The  Cave. — Pineapple- 
Plant.— Calabash-Tree.— Yuca-Sl;rub.— Death  of  Mr.  "Wilson.—  La 
Valle. — Cerro  do  Avila. 

During  our  stay  at  Caracas  "u^e  made  many  excursions 
to  places  of  interest  in  tlie  valley ;  the  first  of  whicli  was 
to  the  Cave  of  Encantado,  four  leagues  east  of  the  city. 
On  the  morning  of  our  fourth  day  in  the  capital,  we  set 
out  for  this  place.  The  sun  had  not  risen,  yet  the  streets 
of  the  city  were  already  bustling  with  life  —  for  the 
Spaniard  is  an  early  riser,  the  morning  heing,  more  from 
necessity  than  choice,  the  business  part  of  the  day.  Scores 
of  water-carriers  hastened  along  with  their  immense  earth- 
en pots,  balanced  upon  their  heads — burdens  are  seldom 
carried  in  the  hand ;  while  donkeys,  so  completely  buried 
beneath  their  loads  of  maize,  that  they  seemed  like  piles 
of  herbage  endowed  with  locomotion,  pushed  stubbornly 
through  the  street. 

Crossing  the  Arauca,  the  stream  which  forms  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  city,  we  passed  at  our  left  a  line 
of  railway.  The  track,  which  was  overgrown  with  grass 
and  weeds,  terminated  a  short  distance  farther  on.  It  had 
been  purposed  to  carry  it  to  Petare,  but,  like  alt  Venezue- 
lian  enterprises,  the  affair  had  come  to  an  untimely  end. 


A  THUNDEK-STOIvM.  21 

At  our  right  was  a  large  cofiee-estate,  the  shrubs  shaded 
by  gigantic  trees  whose  trunks  and  brawny  arms  were 
clothed  with  parasitic  plants,  and  hung  with  long,  tangled 
tufts  of  Tillandsite,  that  gvay  moss  which  so  ornaments 
our  own  Southern  forests.  On  either  side,  the  road  was 
hedged  with  trees  and  bushes,  thickly  interlaced  with  vines 
and  creeping  plants.  These  at  length  gave  place  to  rows 
of  mango-trees,  whose  arching  boughs,  spread  with  dark- 
green  foliage,  formed  a  most  beautiful  arcade.  The  mango, 
which  to  us  seemed  possessed  of  no  particular  gustatory 
virtues,  is  considered  by  the  natives  as  one  of  the  finest 
of  tropical  fruits. 

About  ten  A.  m.,  while  enjoying  our  breakfast  of 
oranges  and  bananas,  we  were  forced  by  a  sudden  shower 
to  seek  shelter  in  a  way-side  pulperia.  A  thunder-storm 
in  the  tropics  is  an  incredible  exaggeration  of  a  northern 
tempest.  The  rain  does  not  spatter  down  in  drops,  but 
falls  in  almost  unbroken  sheets  of  water,  which  in  a  fev.- 
minutes  completely  flood  the  earth.  The  thunder  and 
lightning  which  accompany  these  showers  in  the  elevated 
regions  of  the  country  are  generally  "  moderate  in  cfuan- 
tity  but  inferior  in  quality ;  "  yet  on  the  llanos  of  the  in- 
terior they  are  in  good  keeping  with  the  terrific  storms 
which  sweep  over  those  plains. 

Our  A'isit  to  Caracas  was  during  the  rainy  season, 
which  commences  about  the  last  of  Aj^ril,  and  continues 
until  November.  It  must,  however,  not  be  supposed  that 
even  during  this  season  the  sky  is  continually  overcast  witli 
clouds  which  are  incessantly  discharging  their  contents 
upon  the  land.  The  showers  generally  last  only  a  few 
minutes,  seldom  half  an  hour,  when  they  cease  as  suddenly 
as  they  commence.  The  anniial  fall  of  rain  is  about  thirty- 
five  inches ;  the  time  of  greatest  heat  is  during  the  wet 
l^eriod.  This  regular  alternation  of  the  seasons  in  the  val- 
leys of  Caracas  and  Valencia  is  not,  however,  the  same 


22  EXCUKSIONS  ABOUT  CAKACAS. 

everywhere  within  the  tropics,  for  in  certain  localities 
various  causes  tend  to  modify  essentially  the  tropical  sea- 
sons, which  in  sections  often  not  far  separated,  but  per- 
haps upon  opposite  sides  of  mountain-ranges,  are  frequently 
the  reverse  of  each  other. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Petare,  a  town  of 
four  or  five  thousand  inhabitants ;  and  it  being  still  a 
league  farther  to  Encantado,  over  an  unfrequented  road, 
requiring  a  guide  that  could  not  be  had  until  morning, 
we  determined  to  spend  the  night  here.  After  consider- 
able difficulty  we  at  length  found  a  house  labelled  "Po- 
sada," where  accommodations  were  oifered  us.  While  din- 
ner was  preparing,  which  was  promised  luego  (presently), 
we  strolled  about,  making  a  general  inspection  of  the 
establishment.  In  the  largest  apartment,  and  in  real- 
ity the  only  respectable  one,  was  a  billiard-table,  which 
seemed  the  centre  of  attraction  to  a  crowd  of  men  and 
boys,  among  whom  was  an  Englishman,  who  was  wander- 
ing about  the  world  with  apparently  no  fixed  object,  and 
had  happened  into  this  out-of-the-way  place.  He  was 
not  inclined  to  give  much  of  his  history,  leaving  us  to 
draw  our  own  inferences.  There  was  also  a  young  Span- 
iard of  quite  an  intelligent  and  prepossessing  appearance, 
who,  learning  we  were  Americans,  brought  us  a  copy  of 
an  old  English  book  of  poetry,  and  repeated  from  it  long 
sections  that  he  had  memorized,  but  of  the  meaning  of 
which  he  had  not  the  vaguest  conception.  He  informed 
us  that  he  Avas  desirous  of  acquiring  the  English  lan- 
guage ;  and  for  that  purpose  he  v/as  committing  to  memo- 
ry the  contents  of  the  volume.  He  said  that  he  found  the 
task  an  exceedingly  difficult  one,  and  that  he  had  as  yet 
made  no  very  satisfactory  jjrogress.  We  did  not  doubt 
the  truth  of  his  statement.  He,  however,  seemed  confi- 
dent of  ultimate  success,  and  expressed  a  desire  to  obtain 
from  us  other  Englisli  books,  that  he  might  prosecute  his 


EXPEKIENCE  AT   A  POSADA.  23 

studies.  A  more  hopeful  student  under  such  adverse  cir- 
cumstances we  have  seldom  met  with. 

From  the  long  time  which  had  intervened  since  our 
order  for  dinner,  we  began  to  apprehend  that,  perhaps, 
our  host  had  forgotten  the  wishes  of  his  hungry  guest ; 
but,  upon  inquiry,  we  were  comforted  with  the  assurance 
that  it  would  be  ready  luego.  Another  hour  of  waiting, 
and  again  we  seek  the  cause.  "  Paciencia,  senores, 
luego  ;  "  but  that  was  long  since  exhausted.  A  traveller 
in  this  country  will  have  abundant  opportunity  to  exercise 
his  paciencia^  for  luego  and  7nanana,  presently  and  to-mor- 
row, are  words  in  frequent  requisition  among  the  Span- 
iards, and  are  used  in  their  broadest  signification.  Never 
punctual,  never  in  a  hurry,  are  prominent  characteristics 
of  this  people.  The  meal  was  finally  announced.  In  a 
small  room,  upon  a  small  table,  was  the  food,  which  had 
cost  them  so  much  labor  and  us  so  miich  patience.  We 
allow  that  the  best  had  evidently  been  done  to  meet  our 
wants,  but  confess  that  we  formed  no  very  high  opinion 
of  the  ability  displayed  in  the  prej^aration  of  the  meal. 

Early  the  following  morning,  having  jjassed  the  night 
in  unsuccessful  efibrts  to  jirotect  ourselves  from  the  per- 
sistent attacks  of  fleas,  we  gave  a  consideration  of  throe 
dollars,  for  the  annoyance  and  suffering  we  had  endured, 
and,  taking  our  guide,  started  for  the  Cave  of  Encantado. 
Our  road  was  simply  a  narrow  foot-path,  which  led  around 
the  base  of  densely-wooded  hills,  and  then  over  a  moun- 
tain-range, the  summit  of  which  we  reached  just  as  the 
sun  was  appearing  over  the  top  of  Silla.  We  shall  not  soon 
forget  that  glorious  prospect.  Clouds,  with  their  upper 
surface  brilliant  with  the  rising  sun,  filled  the  valleys 
beneath  us,  while,  piercing  this  sea  of  mist,  the  cragged 
peaks  of  Silla  rose  majestically  above  the  lower  mountains, 
which  here  and  there  scarcely  pushed  their  summits  above 
the  surface  of  the  vapor-ocean.     From  the  mountain  we 


24  EXCUKSIONS  ABOUT  CAEACAS. 

descended  into  a  valley  through  which  rushed  a  broad, 
rapid  torrent,  on  whose  opposite  bank,  directly  in  our 
front,  rose  a  perpendicular  wall  of  limestone,  in  tlie  face  of 
Avhich,  fifteen  feet  from  the  base,  was  the  entrance  to  the 
Cave  of  Encantado.  Clambering  up  the  cliff,  we  found  our- 
selves within  a  large,  irregular,  arched  chamber,  adorned 
with  beautiful  stalactic  formations.  Diverging  from  this 
chamber,  are  dark,  contracted  passage-ways,  leading  to 
smaller  apartments,  the  principal  of  which  we  entered,  often 
obliged  to  crawl  xxpon  hands  and  knees  to  gain  admittance. 
Swarms  of  bats,  disturbed  by  our  intrusion  within  their 
haunts,  hovered  around  us,  making  the  place  hideoiis  with 
their  unearthly  screechings.  Shooting  one  of  the  creatures 
only  tended  to  arouse  the  others  the  more,  while  the  deaf- 
ening report  of  our  gun,  reverberating  through  the 
cavern,  fell  Avith  stunning  effect  upon  our  ears.  Having 
explored  the  cave,  we  dismissed  our  guide,  purposing  to 
remain  through  the  night,  and  return  to  Caracas  on  the 
following  day.  We  spent  the  night  within  the  cave,  where 
iipon  our  rocky  beds,  softened  by  wild-canes,  we,  undis- 
turbed by  our  companion  bats  and  owls,  enjoyed  a  rest, 
free  from  the  fleas  of  Petare. 

Our  visit  to  Encantado  afforded  us  a  most  glorious 
harvest  of  plants,  the  first  gathering  for  our  tropical  her- 
barium. Not  a  single  species  was  familiar ;  yet  some 
were  so  closely  allied  to  A'arieties  in  our  own  land  as  to 
pleasantly  recall  many  a  botanical  ramble  there.  Our  re- 
turn-trip also  introduced  us  to  several  interesting  prod- 
ucts of  the  mountain  valley  of  Caracas,  among  which 
was  the  pineapple.  There  is,  perhaps,  no  production  of 
the  tropics  which  is  so  generally  and  deservedly  esteemed 
by  the  people  of  the  North  as  this  ;  yet  of  none  have  they 
such  vague  ideas,  as  to  manner  of  growth  and  propaga- 
tion. The  pineapple-plant  [Ananassa  sativa)  is  indi- 
genous to  tropical  America,  growing  wild  in  the  forests. 


PINEAPPLE-PLANT.  25 

but  cultivated  largely  in  those  regions,  in  the  West  Indies, 
and  on  the  Eastern  Continent.  It  has  fifteen  or  more  long, 
serrated,  ridged,  sharp-pointed  leaves,  springing  from  the 
root,  and  in  its  general  aspect  resembles  the  century-plant, 
but  is  much  smaller.  In  the  centre  of  this  cluster  of  thick, 
succulent  leaves,  springs  up  a  short  stalk,  bearing  a  spike 
of  beautiful  flowers,  which  in  time  produce  a  single  pine- 
apple. On  the  summit  of  the  fruit  is  a  tuft  of  small  leaves, 
capable  of  becoming  a  new  plant,  which,  together  with 
suckers,  is  the  means  by  which  it  is  propagated,  as  the 
cultivated  fruit  seldom  produces  seeds.  It  flourishes  best 
in  a  moist  and  warm  climate,  but  is  able  to  survive  a  long 
drought  and  extreme  heat.  There  are  several  varieties, 
difiering  in  their  leaves  being  more  or  less  spiny  on  their 
margins,  and  in  the  shape,  size,  and  color  of  the  fruit. 
Great  care  is  requisite  in  its  cultivation ;  otherwise  it  Avill 
be  coarse,  fibrous,  and  deficient  in  saccharine  matter. 
Nothing  can  surpass  the  rich  and  delicate  flavor  of  a  pine- 
apple which  has  been  properly  cultivated ;  or  of  the  wild 
fruit  of  the  forests,  which  we  always  found  equal,  if  not 
superior,  to  the  domesticated  ones. 

Of  the  ai'boreal  productions  of  these  plains,  especially 
interesting  is  the  calabash  or  crockery-tree  {d^escentia 
citjete),  which  is  seen  growing  by  the  side  of  every 
Venezuelian  hut.  In  size  and  appearance  it  resembles 
an  apple-tree,  and  yields  a  hard,  roundish,  ligneous- 
shelled  fruit,  from  three  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter, 
which  suj^ply  the  natives  with  cups,  dishes,  and  many 
useful  utensils.  They  are  sometimes  fancifully  carved, 
or  highly  polislied,  and  by  the  natives  of  the  Ama- 
zons* are  beautifully  tinted  with  various  colors,  botli 
mineral  and  vegetable  substances  being  employed  for  the 
purpose.      But  another  more  indispensable    plant  whicli 

*  This  name  in  Portuguese  is  Amazoiias,  and  wlien  Anglicized  the  plural 
form  should  be  retained, 
2 


20  EXCUESIONS  ABOUT  CAEACAS. 

we  here  found  is  the  yuca,*  or  mandioca  [Manihot  utilis- 
sima),  a  shrub  some  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  height,  from  the 
large  tubers  of  which  are  made  the  cassava  of  the  Vene- 
zuelian,  and  the  farina  of  the  Brazilian.  The  tubers  are 
first  grated  upon  a  concave  board,  thickly  set  with  sharp 
pieces  of  quartz  gravel.  The  pulp  is  rendered  still  finer 
by  grinding  with  stones,  and  the  pulverized  mass  sub- 
jected to  pressure  for  the  purpose  of  removing,  as  far  as 
possible,  its  poisonous  jiiice,  which  contains  hydrocyanic 
or  prussic  acid.  The  substance  is  then  formed  into  round 
cakes,  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
tliickness,  and  baked  upon  concave  plates,  over  a  brisk 
fire,  which  expels  the  remaining  volatile  juice.  Farina, 
the  same  as  the  maiioca  of  the  Kio  Xegro  and  Upper  Ori- 
noco, is  made  by  roasting  the  root,  grated,  into  a  coarse 
flour-like  substance.  In  these  forms  the  yuca  constitutes 
an  excellent  and  nutritious  food,  which  retains  its  sweet- 
ness for  a  long  period.  The  mandioca,  or  yuca,  is  exten- 
sively cultivated  throughout  the  continent  of  South 
America,  and,  with  the  plantain  and  banana,  constitutes, 
in  many  sections,  the  principal  support  of  the  j^eople. 
Tapioca  of  commerce  is  the  sediment,  obtained  from  the 
expressed  juice  of  the  mandioca.  This  plant  must  not  be 
confounded  with  the  yuca  dulce,  or  sweet  yuca  {3fanihot 
aipium),  a  species  similar  in  appearance,  but  which  con- 
tains none  of  the  poisonous  property  of  the  first.  The 
former  is  prefered  for  cassava  and  maiioca,  as  it  is  richer 
in  fccula,  while  the  latter  is  largely  eaten  as  a  vegetable. 

Our  return  from  Encantado  was  followed  by  the  death 
of  Mr.  Wilson,  our  minister,  who  contracted  a  fatal  fever 
while  attending  diplomatic  business  at  La  Guaira,  upon 
the  coast.  He  was  buried  at  Caracas,  far  away  from 
home  and  those  he  loved.  But  a  few  weeks  previous  to 
his  death,  his  family,  who  had  been  with  him,  returned  to 

*  Sometimes  misspelt  yncra^  a  plant  to  which  it  is  in  nowise  allied. 


LA  VALLE.  27 

their  country,  where  he  expected  to  join  them  soon.  The 
tidings  of  his  death  and  burial,  carried  by  the  departing 
steamer,  were  the  only  greeting  for  the  waiting  ones. 

Among  the  many  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  of 
Caracas,  that  will  repay  a  visit,  is  La  Valle,  half  a  league 
south  of  the  capital.  Leaving  the  city  by  the  route 
which  leads  to  the  plains  of  Ocumare,  the  traveller 
crosses  the  Rio  Guaira,  and  ascends  a  gentle  slope, 
Vv'hich  brings  him  to  the  summit  of  a  low  range  of  hills. 
This  road  passes  over  the  ridge  by  a  deep  cut,  made 
through  the  soft  micaceous  rock,  rendering  the  ascent  an 
easy  one.  Emerging  from  this  gorge,  there  opens  before 
the  observer  a  most  fertile  plain,  presenting  a  beautiful 
picture  of  waving  grass  and  cultivated  fields,  dotted  here 
and  there  with  haciendas  and  hamlets,  nestled  beneath  the 
shade  of  graceful  palms.  The  posada  and  few  houses 
which  bear  the  name  of  La  Valle  lie  just  a  little  distant 
from  where  the  traveller  catches  his  first  glimpse  of  the 
valley.  Botanical  and  zoological  attractions  led  us  to 
make  several  excursions  to  this  picturesque  sj^ot,  from 
which  we  always  I'eturned  richly  laden  with  collections. 

The  ascent  of  Silla  promised  excitement  enough  to 
awaken  a  strong  desire  in  lis  for  a  climb  to  its  summit ; 
but  the  continuous  rains  which  prevailed  during  our  stay 
at  Caracas,  rendered  impracticable  the  scaling  of  the  steep, 
slipj^ery  heights  of  the  mountain.  But  the  accessible 
slope  directly  under  Cerro  de  Avila,  clothed  with  magueys 
and  cactuses,  and  traversed  by  the  wooded  ravine  of  the 
Catuche,  was  a  most  interesting  spot,  especially  to  the 
naturalist ;  accordingly  we  planned  a  trip  there.  Follow- 
ing up  the  river,  the  ascent  was  easy  to  the  Toma  de  Agua, 
a  large  reservoir  from  which  the  city  receives  its  supply 
of  water.  From  here  the  gorge  was  deeper,  and  more 
densely  wooded,  and  we  advanced  with  greater  difficulty. 
Tlie  trees  attained  no  great  size,  yet  some  of  the  smaller 


28  EXCURSIONS  ABOUT  CAEACAS. 

forms  of  vegetation  were  of  gigantic  proportions.  We 
found  a  species  of  equisetum  which  was  twelve  feet  in 
height,  and  we  were  assured  by  Mr.  Ernst  that  it  fre- 
quently attains  a  height  of  over  thirty.  Epipliytes,  usu- 
ally called  air-plants,  so  covered  the  limbs  of  the  trees, 
that  it  was  often  difficult  to  determine  whether  what  they 
concealed  was  alive,  or  in  a  state  of  decay.  Some  of  the 
flowers  of  these  orchidaceous  plants  are  of  exceeding 
beauty,  resembling  in  shape,  and  surpassing  in  the  bril- 
liancy of  their  colors,  winged  insects.  The  butterfly-flow- 
er ( OrchkUum  2)ajnllio)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  and 
is  so  similar  in  appearance  to  the  insect  whose  name  it 
bears,  that  it  not  unfrequently  deceives  persons  unac- 
quainted with  it.  Others  look  like  humming-birds,  glit- 
tering with  metallic  lustre.  Many  animated  objects  of 
Nature  are  thus  imitated  by  Flora's  kingdom  of  the 
tropics. 

We  followed  the  ravine  until  tlie  steepness  of  the  as- 
cent and  the  density  of  vegetation  rendered  farther  ad- 
vance exceedingly  laborious ;  when  we  climbed  the  high 
banks  that  enclosed  the  gorge,  and  emerged  \ipon  the 
open  slope.  The  contrast  between  the  vegetation  in  the 
deep  glen,  and  that  of  the  sunburnt  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, was  no  less  striking  in  the  different  degrees  of  luxu- 
riousness  than  in  the  specific  peculiarity  of  distinct  forms. 
In  this  rocky  soil,  which  for  several  months  during  the 
year  is  not  moistened  by  a  single  refreshing  shower, 
thrive  only  plants  that  are  capable  of  enduring  a  long 
season  of  drought,  such  as  the  maguey  and  cactus.  The 
straight,  cylindric,  and  spiny  trunks  of  cerei  rise  thirty 
and  forty  feet  in  height  amid  straggling  opuntias,  whose 
grotesque  forms  lend  such  a  peculiar  physiognomy  to  this 
tropical  landscape.  A  species  of  this  consolidated  form 
of  vegetation,  the  prickly-pear  cactus  {Oj^untia  tuna),  is 
cultivated  by  the  Venezuelians  for  the  sake  of  its  edible 


THE  MAGUEY. 


29 


fruit,  and  is  also  employed  for  hedges,  its  spiny,  branch- 
ing stems  admirably  adapting  it  to  that  purpose. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  the  maguey,  differing  in  the 
leaves  of  one  being  serrated  while  those  of  the  other  are 
entire.  The  spreading  panicle  which  shoots  up  from  the 
cluster  of  fleshy,  sharp- pointed  leaves,  five  to  eight  feet 
in  length,  has  straw-colored,  liliaceous  flowers  pendulous 
from  the  branches.  At  a  distance  the  giant  flower-stalk 
resembles  a  tree  in  foliage,  but  on  a  nearer  view  the  ar- 
borescent plant  exhibits  its  true  nature  and  beauty.  We 
measured  the  stem  of  one,  which  was  twenty  inches  in  cir- 
cumference at  the  base  and  thirty-eight  feet  in  height,  a 
growth  it  had  made  in  six  or  eight  weeks.  The  maguey 
is  not  only  admired  for  its  beauty,  but  also  valued  for  the 
uses  to  which  it  can  be  applied.  From  the  fibres  of  its 
leaves  are  made  twine,  rope,  cloth,  and  hammocks,  while 
the  thorn  which  arms  their  extremity,  when  removed  with 
a  bundle  of  the  attached  fibres,  furnishes  a  needle  and 
thread.  The  leaves  furthermore  yield  an  excellent  deter- 
gent, that  washes  equally  well  with  salt  water  or  fresh. 
From  the  flower-stalk  is  obtained  an  excellent  beverage, 
while  the  pith  of  the  stem,  which  contains  silica,  makes 
excellent  razor-strops.  This  plant,  the  Ticcca  acauUs  of 
Humboldt,  and  the  Codonocrinum  agavoides  of  later  bota- 
nists, is  often  mistaken  for  the  Agave  Americana,  or  cen- 
tury-plant, which  it  resembles  in  its  leaves,  but  from  which 
it  differs  essentially  in  its  flowers  and  inflorescence ;  those 
of  the  latter  terminating  the  branches  in  erect  clusters, 
instead  of  being  scattering  and  pendulous,  as  we  have  ob- 
served, in  the  former.  "We  did  not  see  the  Agave  Ameri- 
cana in  Venezuela,  although  it  is  said  to  grow  in  some 
districts  of  the  littoral  mountains. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

VALLEYS  OF  AKAGUA  AND  VALENCIA. 

Departure  from  Caracas. — Scenery  of  tlie  Eio  Guaira. — Beautiful  View 
from  Mount  Higuerote. — The  "  Garden  of  Venezuela." — Victoria. — 
Spanish  Extortion. — A  Word  on  Mules. — Venezuelian  Coaches. — Mara- 
cai. — Castilian  Etiquette. — East  in  a  Stream. — Entrance  into  Valen- 
cia.— The  City. — Lake  Tacarigua. 

After  two  weeks  sj^ent  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  Ca- 
racas, we  left  the  capital  for  Valencia,  the  second  city  of 
Venezuela,  situated  a  hundred  miles  to  the  westward,  upon 
the  shores  of  the  picturesque  lake  whose  name  it  bears. 
Unfortunately,  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  rainy  season, 
and  the  roads  were  now  impassable  by  the  stages  which 
run  between  the  two  cities.  Moreover,  the  country  Avas 
sufferino:  from  one  of  its  chronic  revolutions,  and  rovine: 
bands  of  outlaws  interrupted  communication,  respecting 
the  persons  or  property  of  neither  friend  nor  foe.  How- 
ever, we  determined  to  undertake  tlie  journey,  arming 
ourselves  well,  in  case  of  emergency.  In  lieu  of  stage- 
conveyance,  we  contracted  for  mules  to  Victoria,  a  town 
midway  between  Caracas  and  Valencia,  paying  ten  pesos  * 
for  each,  just  one-tenth  the  value  of  the  beast,  and  an  equal 
amount  for  a  muchacho,  or  muleteer,  which  proved  near 
his  whole  valuation. 

*  The  peso  is  the  Spanish  dollar,  whose  value  is  eighty  cents. 


SCENEKY   OF   THE   RIO   GUAIEA.  31 

At  three  o'clock,  upon  tlie  morning  of  tlie  15th  of  Au- 
gust, we  were  riding  rapidly  through  the  streets  of  the 
slumbering  capital,  scarcely  able  to  keep  pace  with  our 
i7iuchacho,  who  ran  by  the  side  of  the  baggage-animals. 
Our  course  led  us  along  the  Rio  Guaira  through  a  most 
charming  valley,  whose  beauty  was  enhanced  by  the  light 
of  a  full  moon,  which  threw  weird  shadows  doAvn  the  bro- 
ken slopes  of  the  precipitous  mountains  that  rose  upon 
cither  side.  Just  as  we  were  falling  into  a  poetical  mood, 
we  were  aroused  by  the  imperative  demands  of  a  toll-gate 
official,  to  whom  we  paid  twenty-five  cents  for  each  mule, 
which  exorbitant  exaction  destroyed  our  good-humor  for 
the  remainder  of  the  day.  The  river,  along  which  we 
journeyed  was  bordered  with  cana  hrava^  a  gramineous 
plant  {Gynesium  sacharoides),  which  attains  a  height  of 
fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  and  is  much  used  in  the  construc- 
tion of  fences  and  buildings.  The  declivities  were  cov- 
ered with  magueys,  the  last  we  met  with  in  the  country. 
Often  have  we  recalled  the  giant  form  of  this  arborescent 
plant,  which  lends  so  strange  a  beauty  to  the  landscape 
of  its  mountain-home. 

At  length  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  Iliguerote,  still 
following  the  course  of  the  Guaira,  v/hich  takes  its  rise 
among  the  elevated  peaks  of  this  mountain-range.  In 
places  the  road  led  through  deep  ravines  along  the  stream, 
then  over  rugged  summits,  and  on  the  steep  side  of  preci- 
pices, while  far  below  we  beheld  the  rushing  torrent  of  the 
Guaira  as  it  went  plunging  and  foaming  down  the  heights 
through  rocky  gorges  worn  by  the  incessant  flow  of  waters 
for  many  ages.  After  an  easy  ascent,  but  one  difficult  and 
wearisome  when  made  with  a  coach,  we  arrived  at  the 
summit,  where  we  were  greeted  with  one  of  Nature's  finest 
pictures.  Beneath  us  was  one  of  the  far-famed  valleys  of 
Aragua,  bounded  by  wooded  slopes,  upon- which  here  and 
there  a  hut  was  nestled  in  some  quiet  nook  amid  growing 


32  VALLEYS  OF  ARAGUA  AND  VALENCIA. 

corn  and  bananas,  while  far  down  in  the  lovely  glen  there 
flowed  a  rivulet,  which  added  its  waters  to  those  of  the 
larger  stream  that  bears  the  name  of  the  picturesque  and 
luxuriant  valley  through  which  it  passes.  The  extent  of 
the  prospect  was  not  so  great  but  that  the  whole  could  be 
embraced  at  a  single  glance,  and  every  portion,  even  the 
most  distant,  was  so  distinctly  seen  that  it  appeared  like 
a  vast  picture  set  in  bold  relief  before  our  vision.  Many 
were  the  glorious  scenes  we  enjoyed  in  our  tropical  wan- 
derings, some  wilder,  more  romantic,  surpassing  by  far,  in 
grandeur,  any  we  ever  beheld  in  our  own  land ;  yet  this 
view  from  Higuerote  seemed  to  excel  them  all,  and  left  an 
impression  upon  the  memory  which  the  lapse  of  time  can 
never  efface. 

Along  the  southern  declivity  of  the  mountain-range, 
bounding  upon  the  north  the  valley  we  have  described,  is 
the  road,  cut  from  the  soft  micaceous  rock,  which  leads  by 
a  gentle  descent  into  the  plain  below.  About  half  the 
distance  down  we  halted  at  a  wretched  venta  for  rest  and 
breakfast.  With  hunger  half  appeased  by  a  scanty  meal, 
we  again  mounted  and  were  on  our  way.  The  mountain- 
side along  which  we  were  travelling  received  the  full  bene- 
fit of  a  tropical  sun,  and,  as  mid-day  approached,  the  heat 
became  most  oppressive.  We  were  often  tempted  within 
the  cool  retreat  of  some  shaded  glen,  such  as  were  fre- 
quently crossed  as  we  zigzagged  down  the  Cordillera  into 
the  valley  beneath  us.  But  our  destination  for  the  night 
was  a  long  journey  ahead,  and  we  urged  our  animals  for- 
ward. 

The  descent  was  at  length  completed,  when  we  entered 
the  valley,  which,  narrow  at  first,  gradually  widened  as 
we  advanced,  spreading  out  into  a  broad  and  beautiful 
plain,  which  is  one  of  the  great  coffee-regions  of  the  world. 
The  valleys  of  Aragua  have  been  fitly  called  the  "  Garden 
of  Venezuela."     Their  elevation  is  nearly  two  thousand 


THE   "  GAEDEN  OF  VENEZUELA."  33 

feet  above  the  sea,  one-half  that  of  the  table-lands  of  Ca- 
racas, and  the  average  temperature  during  the  day  is  70° 
to  75°  Fahr.,  falling  at  night  to  about  60°.  The  soil  is 
most  fertile,  and  every  j^roduct  of  the  tropics,  with  many  of 
northern  latitudes,  flourishes  luxuriantly.  CoSee  is,  how- 
ever, the  great  stai)le  of  these  regions.  As  we  approached 
Victoria,  we  passed  extensive  estates  of  this  shrub,  shaded 
by  gigantic  trees  to  prevent  the  rapid  absorption  of  moist- 
ure from  the  soil,  and  to  protect  the  ripening  berry  from 
the  burning  heat  of  the  sun.  Great  care  in  cultivation  is 
bestowed  on  these  coffee-groves,  and  the  harvest  yielded 
is  proportionally  fine ;  the  berry  being  of  a  superior  qual- 
ity, and  the  quantity  greater  than  in  most  other  places 
where  the  shrub  is  cultivated.  Wheat  Avas  formerly  raised, 
and  produced,  according  to  Humboldt,  nearly  sixteenfold ; 
but,  notwithstanding  this  large  return,  the  greater  profit 
from  the  culture  of  coffee,  cacao,  and  cotton,  has  caused 
the  cultivation  of  wheat  to  be  wholly  neglected,  and  the 
demand  for  it  is  now  supplied  from  the  States.  We  saw 
none  of  this  cereal  growing  in  the  country,  but  were 
informed  that  in  the  provinces  of  Merida  and  Trujillo 
there  is  sufticient  raised  to  sxipply  the  demands  of  these 
districts. 

It  was  nearly  dark  when  we  entered  Victoria  and 
reined  our  jaded  animals  up  in  front  of  quite  a  respect- 
able-appearing posada.  Weary  and  sore  from  our  journey 
of  sixteen  leagues  over  a  rough  mountain-road,  we  gladly 
alighted  from  our  saddles.  A  call  for  dinner  was  answered 
by  eight  o'clock,  when  we  sat  down  to  our  meal,  which  we 
enjoyed  with  a  keen  relish,  notwithstanding  the  successful 
efforts  of  the  cooks  in  destroying  the  natural  flavor  of 
every  dish  with  the  inevitable  garlics. 

In  our  wearied  condition  we  were  not,  j^erhaps,  in  the 
best  humor  to  spare  the  feelings  of  our  precious  tnucliaclio 
— we  recalled  our  paying  ten  pesos  for  his  invaluable  scr- 


34  VALLEYS   OF  ARAGUA  AND   VALENCIA. 

vices — who  had  lost  by  the  way  one  of  our  herbariums, 
filled  with  choice  plants.  The  loss  was  an  irreparable  one ; 
for  many  of  the  species  were  known  only  to  the  high  table- 
land and  mountains  of  Caracas,  where  they  had  been  col- 
lected, and  consequently  could  not  now  be  replaced. 

The  imposition  again  practised  upon  us  in  making  ar- 
rangements for  the  prosecution  of  our  journey  was  the 
next  thing  to  destroy  our  equanimity,  and  to  persuade 
us,  if  not  already  convinced,  that  Yenezuelian  officials 
and  posaderos  possess  the  fewest  virtues  of  any  mortals 
Ave  were  ever  privileged  to  meet.  Our  mules,  which  had 
been  engaged  only  to  Victoria,  were  not  allowed  to  go 
farther,  and  others  could  not  be  obtained.  We  therefore 
made  a  trial  of  coaches,  which  our  post,  who  monopolized 
this  business  in  Victoria,  furnished  us  for  the  moderate 
sum  of  sixty  jiesos.  This  was  the  price  of  a  single  day's 
ride  in  one  of  the  miserable,  wheeled  arrangements  of  the 
country.  Nor  did  this  include  the  keeping  of  the  driver 
and  horses  by  the  way.  Such  is  Venezuelian  extortion  to 
which  the  traveller  in  these  fair  lands  is  subject. 

We  will  here  add,  for  the  benefit  of  any  who  may  fol- 
low us  over  this  route  through  Northern  Venezuela,  that 
complete  arrangements  should  be  made  for  the  entire 
journey  at  Caracas  or  Valencia,  whichever  place  may  be 
the  starting-point.  If  you  are  not  familiar  with  the 
Spanish  language,  procure  an  interpreter,  who  can  al- 
ways be  had,  to  make  the  bargain  for  you,  being  particu- 
lar to  mention  every  thing,  and  have  all  agreed  upon, 
even  to  the  feed  for  your  animals,  and  also  the  toll  which 
may  be  extorted  by  the  way.  An  occasional  cigar  and 
glass  of  aguardiente  will  also  be  expected  by  your  mule- 
teer. The  journey  is  most  easily  performed  by  mules. 
Be  contented  with  allowing  the  beast  to  choose  his  own 
time  for  accomplishing  the  distance.  Like  his  counter- 
part, his  master,  he  is  a  subtle  animal ;  if  not  deceitful 


SPANISH  EXTOETION.  35 

above  all  things,  at  least  desperately  wicked.  With  a  lit- 
tle experience,  however,  you  will  soon  learn  to  manage  the 
creatures,  so  that  no  difficulty  need  be  apprehended.  You 
cannot  change  his  wily  nature ;  but  do  not  call  it  forth  by 
placing  yourself  in  violent  opposition  to  his  will. 

Punctuality  is  not  one  of  the  virtues  of  Venezuelians ; 
we  were,  therefore,  not  surprised  that  it  was  fully  an  hour 
late  in  the  morning  when  the  wretched  conveyance,  in 
which  we  were  to  be  dragged  to  Valencia,  was  ready  for 
us.  The  prospect  of  a  discomforting  journey  in  no  way 
allayed  our  feelings  of  indignation  which  we  entertained 
for  Venezuelian  swindlers  in  general  and  our  Victoria  po- 
sadero  in  particular.  The  coach  in  question  was  a  sham- 
bling affiiir,  drawn  by  three  horses  abreast,  which  were 
from  the  roaming  herds  of  the  plains,  and,  before  our 
journey's  end  was  reached,  gave  evidojicethat  their  wild 
and  fractious  nature  had  not  been  wholly  subdued.  Stow- 
ing ourselves  and  baggage  as  best  we  could  inside  of 
the  concern,  the  driver  cracked  his  long  raw-hide  whip, 
shouted  at  his  fiery  steeds,  and  away  we  dashed  over  the 
stony  pavement  of  the  streets  with  noise  sufficient  for  a 
train  of  artillery.  Victoria  is  an  unattractive  town  of 
seven  or  eight  thousand  inhabitants,  and  of  but  little 
commercial  importance,  although  situated  in  the  midst  of 
the  rich.growing  valleys  of  Aragua,  and  upon  one  of  the 
great  thoroughfares  of  the  republic.  The  valley  here  is  a 
league  in  breadth,  but  widens  as  it  approaches  the  Lake  of 
Valencia,  until,  embracing  that  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
it  expands  into  the  broad  plain  bearing  the  same  name. 

The  villages  of  San  Mateo  and  Zurmero  were  passed, 
when  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Saman  de  Guere,  an  enor- 
mous tree  of  the  mimosa  family,  whose  large  hemispheri- 
cal top  looks  more  like  a  forest-crowned  peak  than  the 
summit  of  a  single  tree.  The  height  of  this  giant  of  the 
vegetable  kingdom  is  only  about  sixty  feet,  with  the  cir- 


36       VALLEYS  OF  AEAGUA  AND  VALENCIA. 

cumference  of  its  trunk  thirty,  dimensions  less  tlian  those 
of  other  trees  of  the  siimc  kind  growing  in  the  vicinity. 
But  its  beauty  and  attraction  consist  in  the  extension  of 
its  branches,  which  spread  out  on  every  side  to  the  dis- 
tance of  nearly  a  hundred  feet,  making  a  spherical  sum- 
mit of  about  six  hundred  feet  in  circumference.  Its  small, 
l^innated  leaves  form  a  most  delicate  foliage,  which  con- 
trasts curiously  with  the  gigantic  size  of  the  tree,  and  add 
greatly  to  its  beauty.  The  age  of  the  Saman  de  Guere 
must  be  very  great,  for  tradition  only  tells  of  its  anti- 
quity. It  was  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  natives  at 
the  time  of  the  Spanish  Conquest,  and  is  now  carefully 
preserved  by  the  government.  Humboldt  makes  mention 
of  it,  as  seen  by  him  during  his  visit  to  the  country  in 
1800,  when  it  was,  he  says,  in  the  same  state  of  preserva- 
tion in  which  the  first  conquerors  found  it.  It  has  since 
been  observed  with  increased  interest  and  attention  by 
travellers,  and  no  change  has  been  noticed  in  its  appear- 
ance during  the  half  century  or  more  that  has  followed. 
But  there  it  stands,  green  and  vigorous,  as  in  the  days 
when  first  the  aborigines  of  the  country  reclined  in  the 
shade  of  its  forest-top,  even  then  rocked  by  the  blasts  of 
many  ages.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  it  Avill  with- 
stand for  centuries  yet  to  come  the  fury  of  tropical  tem- 
pests, an  object  of  wonder  and  reverence  to  the  traveller 
v/ho  shall  journey  through  the  valley  of  Aragua. 

Four  leagues  westward  of  Turmero,  and  six  from  Vic- 
toria, is  Maracai.  a  town  of  some  eight  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, where  we  stopped  for  breakfast.  For  the  first  and 
only  time  while  in  the  country  we  saw  a  woman  seat  her- 
self at  the  table  in  company  with  men.  Among  the  bet- 
ter class  of  Venezuelians  it  is  customary  for  ladies  to  take 
their  meals  in  their  rooms,  having  them  brought  by  ser- 
vants ;  while  among  the  middle  and  lower  classes  the 
women  wait  until  their  lords  have  eaten,  when  they  take 


FAST  IN    A  STKEAM.  37 

possession  of  the  table  with  what  may  be  loft,  or,  as  is 
more  commonly  the  case,  they  crouch  with  the  children  upon 
the  ground  in  the  corner,  where  from  the  iron  pots  they 
take  their  food.  The  wife  of  our  host,  disregarding  this 
custom  of  Spanish  etiquette,  placed  herself  with  us  at  the 
festive  board,  and  together  we  enjoyed  a  pleasant  repast. 

After  our  mid-day  siesta  we  left  Mai*acai,  and  soon  after 
caught  a  glimpse  of  Lake  Valencia,  or  Tacarigua,  its  In- 
dian name.  The  road  thus  far  had  been  tolerably  good, 
but  now  became  outrageously  bad,  so  that  our  progress 
was  slow  and  laborious.  Swollen  streams  rushing  from 
the  mountain-sides  crossed  our  path,  occasioning  us  often- 
times no  little  difficulty  in  fording.  To  add  to  the  perplex- 
ities of  the  situation,  our  horses  were  weary,  and  began  to 
exhibit  signs  which  forboded  evil.  We  were  making  our 
way  over  the  plain  which  borders  the  lake  upon  the  north, 
at  times  riding  quite  briskly  over  a  smooth  patch  of  road, 
and  then  floundering  through  mud  hub-deep,  when  sud- 
denly we  came  to  a  halt.  Putting  our  heads  out  of  the 
open  sides  of  the  coach  to  learn  the  cause  of  our  stopping, 
we  discovered  ourselves  in  the  middle  of  a  broad  stream ; 
the  horses  standing  composedly  in  the  water  with  a  mali- 
cious look  of  self-satisfaction  at  our  ludicrous  position. 
Yes,  there  we  were,  and  no  amount  of  coaxing  or  lashing 
could  induce  the  obstinate  brutes  to  budge.  To  the  re- 
peated blows  of  the  driver,  they  responded  with  kicks, 
throwing  mud  and  water  in  a  most  spiteful  manner  in 
every  direction,  until  one  at  length  threw  himself  com- 
pletely out  of  the  harness.  Seeing  that  our  present  mode 
of  procedure  was  not  likely  to  avail  us  much  but  kicks 
and  a  liberal  sprinkling  with  the  contents  of  the  stream, 
we  concluded  to  alight,  in  hopes  that  the  rebellious  crea- 
tures might  then,  perhaps,  be  induced  to  extricate  the 
concern.  This  was  no  sooner  done  than  their  ugliness 
took  a    new  direction,  and,  with  a  spring,  they  started 


SS       VALLEYS  OF  AKAGUA  AND  VALENCIA. 

forward,  purposing  no  doubt  to  leave  us  to  our  reflections, 
which,  just  at  that  crisis  of  affairs,  were  in  no  very  solemn 
strain.  Our  driver,  however,  being  on  the  alert,  the  crea- 
tures were  checked  in  their  career  until  we  could  regain 
our  seats,  when  the  lines  and  the  whip  were  both  given, 
and  away  we  dashed  wildly  over  the  plain. 

At  five  p.  M.  we  reached  the  small  village  of  San 
Joaquin,  distant  from  Valencia  six  leagues.  We  had 
been  so  detained  by  the  badness  of  the  roads,  and  the  re- 
fractory performances  of  our  steeds,  that  we  concluded  to 
pass  the  night  at  this  place.  At  the  early  hour  of  three 
in  the  morning  we  were  served  bread  and  coffee  by  our 
pompous  host,  who,  to  lessen  the  trouble  of  dressing,  had 
wa'apped  himself  in  his  blanket.  We  w^ere  soon  on  our 
way,  riding  rapidly  over  the  bed  of  an  ancient  lake,  which 
formerly  covered  the  entire  plains  of  Aragua  and  Valen- 
cia. Leaving  the  rich  and  beautiful  regions  of  Aragua 
and  Maracai,  "we  entered  upon  a  broader  plain,  formed  by 
the  receeding  of  the  hills  to  a  greater  distance  from  the 
lake.  Bushes  and  stunted  trees,  alternating  with  belts 
of  grass-growing  land,  were  the  features  which  the  land- 
scape now  presented.  We  drove  for  miles,  meeting  with 
only  an  occasional  hut  on  a  cultivated  plot.  Within  half 
a  mile  of  Valencia  we  passed  to  our  right  the  Mono,  a 
rocky  and  precipitous  semi-isolated  hill,  from  whose  sum- 
mit can  be  obtained  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  plain 
and  lake. 

It  was  eight  a.  m.  when  the  rumblino:  of  our  coach 
through  the  streets  of  Valencia  announced  to  its  inhab- 
itants an  arrival,  which  is  not  an  every-day  occurrence, 
but  an  event  to  be  signalled  by  a  general  cessation  of 
business,  and  a  simultaneous  appearance  of  a  multitude 
of  heads  from  windows,  doors,  and  balconies.  Crossing 
the  Rio  de  Valencia,  a  stream  which  flows  through  the 
city,    we    passed  up   the   principal  street    amid  staring 


ENTEANCE  INTO  VALENCIA.  39 

crowds,  and  stopped  at  the  posada  of  La  Bella  Alaza,  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Gran  Plaza.  Immediately  the 
posadero,  guests,  porters,  cooks,  and  a  whole  retinue  of 
attendants,  came  rushing  out,  and  besieged  us  on  every 
side,  so  that  with  difficulty  we  forced  an  entrance  to  the 
apartment  we  were  to  occupy.  Our  baggage  was  seized 
by  three  times  the  number  needed  to  carry  it,  and  was 
followed  by  as  many  more,  who  came  thronging  into  our 
room,  which  they  so  filled  that  we  were  scarcely  able  to 
move.  Their  curiosity  becoming  somewhat  satisfied  when 
they  had  seen  and  examined  every  thing  it  was  possible  to 
get  hold  of,  they  gradually  withdrew,  until  we  were  at 
length  left  to  ourselves. 

The  city  of  Valencia  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  most 
salubrious  and  fertile  valley,  which,  including  the  basin  of 
Aragua  upon  the  east,  and  the  grassy  plains  stretching 
out  upon  the  west,  is  about  twenty-five  leagues  in  length 
and  five  in  its  greatest  breadth.  It  is  difficult  to  conceive 
why  Caracas,  which  is  farther  from  the  geographical  cen- 
tre of  the  republic,  and  so  difficult  of  access  from  the 
coast,  with  only  an  open  roadstead  for  a  port,  should  have 
been  preferred  as  the  capital  of  Venezuela  to  the  more 
accessible  and  in  every  respect  more  desirable  place  of 
Valencia,  which  is  only  fourteen  leagues,  by  a  splendid 
road,  from  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world.  Valen- 
cia has  been  a  favored  city ;  it  has  never  been  sacked  by 
an  invading  army,  never  thrown  down  by  an  earthquake. 
It  was  even  spared  by  the  tyrant  Lopez  de  Aguirre,  whose 
name  spread  such  terror  throughout  the  republic ;  and  the 
wild  Carib  tribe,  which  came  up  in  hordes  from  the  Orinoco 
to  lay  waste  the  place,  were  turned  back  before  they  had 
crossed  the  borders  of  the  plain.  Contending  parties  in 
the  political  convulsions  of  later  times  have  also  chosen 
other  places  in  which  to  shed  each  othei-'s  blood.  Not- 
withstanding, Valencia  has  advanced  but  slowly  in  growth 


40  VALLEYS  OF  AEAGUA  AND  VALENCIA, 

and  prosperity.  Its  population  of  ten  thousand,  three- 
quarters  of  a  century  ago,  has  scarcely  doubled.  The 
most  prominent  part  of  the  place,  as  of  every  Spanish 
towTi,  is  the  Gran  Plaza,  upon  the  north  side  of  which 
stands  the  catliedral,  built  more  than  two  centuries  ago. 
On  the  south  is  the  government-house  of  Carabobo,  of 
which  state  Valencia  is  the  capital ;  the  remaining  sides 
of  tlie  square  are  occupied  by  hotels,  shops,  and  private 
residences.  The  city  has  four  churches,  and  two  others 
in  process  of  erection,  but  which  it  is  more  than  probable 
will  never  be  completed.  There  is  one  regular  newspaper, 
but  in  times  of  revolution,  which  is  the  normal  condition 
of  the  country,  two  or  tliree'are  issued. 

Our  first  visit  from  Valencia  was  to  the  beautiful  Lake 
of  Tacarigua,  which,  when  the  city  was  founded,  in  1555, 
was  one-half  league  to  the  eastward,  but,  by  the  rapid 
desiccation  of  that  body  of  water,  it  is  now  distant  over 
tAvo  and  a  half  leagues.  Leaving  the  city  by  the  road 
which  leads  to  Victoria,  we  soon  reached  Guias,  a  little 
village  one  and  a  half  league  from  Valencia ;  and  here, 
abandoning  the  main  highway,  we  followed  a  crooked 
trail,  which  took  us  through  a  forest  tract,  then  across 
flourishing  plantations  of  maize,  bananas,  and  groves  of 
cocoa-nut  trees,  bi-oken  by  stifling  jungles  of  reeds  and 
bushes.  It  was  noon  when  we  reached  the  western  shores 
of  the  lake ;  when,  oppressed  by  the  heat  of  mid-day,  we 
threw  ourselves  beneath  the  grateful  shade  of  trees  at  the 
base  of  a  wooded  hill,  which  was  at  one  time  an  island  of 
the  lake,  and  enjoyed  a  view  that  has  but  few  rivals  in 
beauty  or  interest  upon  either  continent.  Formerly,  the 
shores  of  the  lake  were  the  mountains  which  now  form  the 
boundaries  of  the  valleys  of  Aragua  and  Valencia;  the 
geological  formations  of  the  mountain-slopes,  and  their 
fresh-water  fossils  (amjniUaria  and  j^^anorbis),  embracing 
species  now  inhabiting  the  lake,  are  unmistakable  evidence 


THE  CITY.  41 

of  the  extent  of  its  ancient  borders.*  How  rapid  the 
change  of  level  was  previous  to  the  nineteenth  century, 
we  have  no  exact  means  of  estimating;  but,  judging  from 
the  increase  in  the  rapidity  of  its  shrinking  since  that 
date,  we  infer  that  its  rate  of  diminution  formerly  Avas 
much  slower  than  at  present.  The  historian  Oviedo  states 
that  when  Valencia  was  founded,  in  1555,  it  was  one-half 
league  distant  from  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  and 
Humboldt  asserts  that,  according  to  his  own  measure- 
ment, in  1800,  the  town  was  a  little  more  than  twice  that 
distance  from  its  borders,  and  that  the  lake  was  ten  leagues 
long,  and  nowhere  over  two  or  three  leagues  broad.  The 
last  accurate  observer  also  makes  mention  of  there  being, 
at  the  time  of  his  visit,  fifteen  islands,  and  also  adds  that 
many  formerly  such  had  become,  by  the  retreating  of  the 
waters,  attached  to  the  main-land,  forming  promontories. 
The  lake  at  present  is  about  eight  leagues  in  length,  with 
its  v/idth  proportionally  contracted.  Within  the  last 
three-quarters  of  a  century,  no  islands  have  become  at- 
tached to  the  shore,  by  the  lowering  of  the  waters  ;  but, 
instead,  seven  new  ones  have  appeared.  The  height  of 
the  lake  above  the  sea  is  nearly  twelve  hundred  feet.  The 
water  has  a  temperature  of  Y5°  to  80°  Fahrenheit,  and  is 
perfectly  fresh,  although  stated  by  Eastwick  as  being 
brackish.  We  used  it  exclusively  during  our  stay  upon 
its  borders.  Humboldt  found  that  the  water  upon  evap- 
oration left  only  a  small  residuum  of  carbonate  of  lime, 
and  a  little  nitrate  of  potash. 

The  desiccation  of  this  great  basin  of  Valencia  has 
excited  general  interest,  and  is  a  matter  of  no  small  im- 
portance to  the  inhabitants  of  those  regions.  During  the 
last  half-century  the  process  has  been  going  forward  with 

*  These  fossils  we  found  in  strata  often  several  feet  in  thickness ;  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  the  soil,  in  places,  is  largely  composed  of  them. 


42  VALLEYS  OF  AEAGUA  AND  VALENCIA. 

increasing  rapidity,  and  immense  tracts  of  land,  which 
were  formerly  inundated,  are  now  fertile  and  ciiltivated 
plains ;  as  the  country  bordering  the  lake  is  so  low  and 
level,  that  the  lowering  of  a  few  inches  in  the  surface  of 
the  water  lays  dry  a  wide  belt  of  land.  The  same  nature 
of  the  circumambient  2>lain  also  causes  considerable  por- 
tions to  be  submerged  during  the  rainy  period  of  the 
year,  preventing  the  planting  of  maize  at  that  season. 

There  are  twenty-two  streams,  some  of  them  of  con- 
siderable size,  that  flow  into  the  lake,  but,  as  it  has  no  dis- 
coverable outlet,  the  waters  must  be  removed  wholly  by 
evaporation.  Of  the  quantity  of  water  which  empties  into 
the  basin  of  Valencia,  some  idea  may  be  formed  from  the 
calculations  of  Cordozzi,  in  his  Res'Cimen  de  la  Geograf'ta 
de  Venezuela,  published  in  1841.  This  writer  gives  the 
size  of  the  lake  as  twenty-two  squai-e  leagues,  and  the 
area  of  the  valleys  of  Caribobo  and  Aragua,  which,  from 
their  configuration,  give  their  waters  to  the  basin  of  Va- 
lencia, as  eighty-six  square  leagues.  This,  united  to  the 
twenty-two  of  the  lake,  gives  a  surface  of  one  hundred 
and  eight  square  leagues,  over  which  it  is  said  there  year- 
ly fall  seventy-two  inches  of  rain.  This  estimate  will  en- 
able us  to  conceive  how  rapidly  evaporation  goes  on  in 
the  dry  and  heated  atmosphere  of  the  troj^ics.  Certain 
local  causes  have  tended  to  greatly  accelerate  the  desicca- 
tion of  the  lake.  The  mountains  which  enclose  the  basin 
were  formerly  covered  with  forest,  which  retained  the 
moisture  of  the  earth,  and  produced  copious  springs  that 
fed  the  streams.  This  natural  protection  to  the  soil  has 
been  removed,  the  land  has  become  parched,  streams 
dried  up,  the  heat  of  the  valley  augmented,  and  evapora- 
tion has  consequently  become  more  rapid.  The  Pao, 
which  was  the  largest  river  that  flowed  into  the  lake,  was, 
at  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  diverted  from  its 
original  channel  for  the  purpose  of  irrigating  the  country 


LAKE   TACAKIGUA.  43 

to  the  southward,  and  its  waters  allowed  to  escape  in  the 
Llanos.  The  low  depression  of  the  hills  at  the  passage 
of  Bucarito  was  the  outlet  of  the  ancient  lake ;  a  rise  of 
the  water  forty  feet  above  its  j^resent  level  Avould  cause 
it  to  discharge  as  hei-etofore.  In  less  than  a  century,  at 
the  present  accelerated  rate  with  which  its  shores  are  re- 
ceding, desiccated  plains,  covered  with  growing  crops  and 
luxuriant  verdure,  will  mark  the  spot  the  lake  now  oc- 
cupies. 


CHAPTER    Y. 

VALENCIA    AND    PUERTO    C^\J3ELLO. 

Hacienda  of  Mr.  Glockler. — Coffee. — Cacao. — Tiger-Huut. — A  Tropical 
Forest. — Lost  on  tlie  Mountains. — A  Cheerless  Niglit. — Exit  from  the 
Wilds.— Eeturn  to  Valencia. — Descent  to  the  Sea-coast. — Papaw- 
Tree. — "  Cow-Tree." — Thermal  Springs. — Discomforts  of  Life  at  a 
Hacienda. — Cocoa-Palm. — Mangroves. — Puerto  Cabello. 

While  at  Valencia,  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr. 
Glockler,  the  German  consul  from  Hamburg.  Mr.  Glock- 
ler was  the  owner  of  a  large  estate  about  two  leagues 
from  the  city,  and  thither  he  invited  us  for  the  purpose  of 
a  tiger*-hunt  among  the  mountains.  The  pleasing  diver- 
sion which  such  an  excursion  promised,  besides  the  oppor- 
tunity presented  of  making  valuable  collections  from  the 
high  altitudes  of  the  Cordilleras,  toward  whose  lofty  sum- 
mits we  had  often  cast  a  wistful  eye  during  our  abode 
upon  the  plains,  induced  us  to  accept  the  proposal. 

Leaving  Valencia  upon  the  road  which  leads  to  Puerto 
Cabello,  we  soon  abandoned  it,  and,  turning  to  our  left, 
crossed  a  ridge  of  hills  -which  brought  us  into  a  finely-cul- 
tivated, lateral  valley,  opening  upon  the  larger  plain  of 
the  lake.  It  was  noon  when  we  alighted  at  the  hacienda,\ 
one  of  the  largest  and  finest  we  saw  in  the  country,  wliere 

*  The  Fells  onra  of  naturalists ;  generally  known  as  the  jaguar,  or 
American  tiger. 

f  Hacienda  is  a  term  used  to  designate  alike  landed  estate  and  the 
usually  large  dwelling  situated  upon  the  same. 


COFFEE.  45 

we  were  kindly  received  and  hospitably  entertained.  The 
house,  a  low  two-story  structure,  occupied  one  side  of  a 
large  court-yard  of  about  half  an  acre  in  extent,  which 
was  enclosed  on  the  remaining  sides  by  high  walls, 
and  the  small  dwellings  of  the  laborers  of  the  hacienda. 
Outside  of  the  enclosure  were  cocoa-nut,  orange,  banana, 
and  lemon  trees,  loaded  with  fruit  in  every  stage  of  per- 
fection. Of  the  last  mentioned  there  are  two  species  cul- 
tivated in  Venezuela;  one  [Citrus  lemonium),  the 'kind  so 
well  known  in  commerce,  the  other  [Citrus  lumia)  a 
svreet  lemon,  in  which  the  acidity  that  belongs  to  the 
other  is  entirely  wanting. 

The  estate,  which  stretched  far  up  the  mountain  ac- 
clivity, was  devoted  principally  to  cofFee-raising.  How 
much  might  be  written  of  coffee — its  growth,  uses,  and 
the  influence  which  it  exerts  commercially,  socially,  and 
physically  !  The  temperate  valleys  of  Valencia  and  Ara- 
gua  seem  peculiarly  adapted  to  its  cultivation,  the  yield 
being  large,  and  the  berry  of  a  superior  quality.  The 
site  for  a  coffee-plantation  must  be  such  that  it  can  be  ir- 
rigated during  the  dry  season ;  and  the  shrubs  need  to  be 
shaded  by  large  trees,  to  protect  them  from  the  scorch- 
ing rays  of  the  sun.  If  grown  from  the  slip,  they  will 
produce  theit*  first  crop  the  second  year  ;  but  usually  not 
much  is  expected  until  the  third.  The  average  annual 
yield  is  one  and  a  half  or  two  pounds  from  each  bush, 
although  sometimes  as  many  as  fifteen  pounds  are  gath- 
ered from  a  single  i>lant.  The  berries  grow  in  fascicles, 
or  clusters,  at  the  end  of  the  branches,  and,  when  ripe,  re- 
semble an  oblong  cranberry. 

Another  product  of  these  temperate  valleys,  one  which 
thrives  most  luxuriantly  and  forms  one  of  the  chief  exports 
of  Venezuela,  is  cacao  [Theohroma  cacao),  the  chocolate- 
tree.  The  cacao  is  a  native  of  Central  and  South  America, 
and  was  unknown  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  Old  World, 


46  VALENCIA  AND   PUEKTO   CABELLO. 

xxntil  introduced  after  the  discovery  of  the  'New.  Among 
the  ancient  Aztecs  and  Incas  it  was  used  as  a  medium  of 
exchange,  besides  affording  them  a  most  delicious  bever- 
age and  nutritions  food.  Bananas  and  the  erythrina  are 
planted  at  the  same  time  with  the  cacao ;  the  former, 
which  is  a  very  rapidly-growing  plant,  protects  the  cacao 
during  the  tirst  stages  of  its  growth,  being  removed  as 
soon  as  the  latter  tree  attains  sufficient  size  to  afford  the 
requisite  shade.  The  cacao-jjlant  seldom  rises  liigher  than 
twenty  feet,  and  commences  to  bear  at  the  age  of  six  or 
seven  years,  yielding  two  crops  annually  for  an  indefinite 
number  of  years.  The  manner  in  which  the  fruit  grows, 
attached  to  the  trunks  and  large  limbs  of  the  trees,  Avill 
strike  one  as  a  little  curious.  It  resembles  a  short,  thick 
cucumber,  four  or  five  inches  long,  and  two  and  a  half  or 
three  inches  in  diameter,  and  contains  thirty  or  forty 
large,  flat  beans  of  a  dark-brown  color,  enveloped  in  a 
sweet  pulp.  One  or  one  and  a  half  pound  is  the  average 
annual  yield  of  a  single  tree.  Notwithstanding  this  small 
return,  it  is  an  exceedingly  lucrative  branch  of  culture, 
as  a  plantation,  when  once  established,  requires  but  little 
attention  beyond  the  harvesting  of  the  crop. 

Toward  evening  of  the  same  day  of  our  arrival  at  the 
estate  of  the  consul,  we  climbed  the  mountain  to  an  lapper 
hacienda,  also  owned  by  him.  On  the  way  Ave  were  shown 
some  hieroglyphics,  sculptured  upon  the  rocks,  the  work 
of  a  civilization  prior  to  the  conquest.  The  designs  were 
those  of  animals  and  various  other  objects  in  nature, 
rudely  executed  and  still  in  a  good  state  of  preseiwation, 
notwithstanding  the  rocks  upon  which  tliey  are  carved 
have  been  for  centuries  subjected  to  the  destroying  agen- 
cies of  a  tropical  climate.  On  the  old  road  over  the  njoun- 
tains  from  Valencia  to  Puerto  Cabello,  and  near  the  latter 
place,  are  upon  the  rocks  similar  engravings,  which  must 
be  referred  to  the  same  origin  and  antiquity. 


A  TIGER- HUNT.  47 

Spending  the  night  at  the  upper  hacienda,  at  early- 
dawn  we  were  preparing  for  the  excursion  of  the  day — a 
tiger-hunt  among  the  mountains.  Hastily  taking  our 
coffee,  we  mounted  our  saddles,  and  were  on  our  way  up 
the  Cordillera,  attended  by  two  natives  and  the  hospitable 
German  who  had  charge  of  the  hacienda.  From  time  to 
time  in  the  ascent  we  caught  a  momentary  glimpse  of  the 
country  below  through  openings  in  the  white  fleecy  clouds, 
but,  as  the  highest  point  of  observation  was  reached,  the 
mist  was  dispelled,  and  we  had  before  us  a  picture  that 
we  shall  long  remember.  As  we  cast  our  eyes  downward, 
almost  beneath  our  feet  we  beheld  the  charming  valley  we 
had  left,  and  beyond,  separated  by  a  range  of  wooded 
hills  which  appeared  scarcely  elevated  above  the  sur- 
rounding level,  was  the  fertile  plain  of  Valencia,  and  still 
farther  on  the  Golden  Valleys  of  Aragua.  There  was  the 
city  of  Valencia,  and  beyond,  in  the  midst  of  forest  and 
cultivated  grounds,  was  that  gem  of  lakes  whose  waters 
glistened  under  the  light  of  the  morning  sun.  To  oiar  left 
and  far  distant  rose  semi-isolated  mountains  with  barren 
slopes  and  sharp  summits,  while  to  the  southward  wei-e 
the  siex-ras  of  Nirgua  and  Guique,  and  beyond,  range 
after  range  piled  itself  against  the  sky.  Rarely,  indeed, 
does  the  eye  behold  a  more  glorious  prospect  than  is 
gained  from  the  lofty  mountains  of  Valencia. 

Leaving  the  animals  in  charge  of  one  of  the  natives, 
with  instructions  to  wait  until  our  return,  and  taking  the 
other  with  us  for  a  guide,  we  plunged  into  the  dense  for- 
est. He  who  is  acquainted  only  with  northern  woods  can 
have  but  a  faint  conception  of  the  primeval  forest  of  the 
tropics.  Gigantic  trees  rise  to  a  height  unknown  in  tem- 
perate regions,  displaying  the  greatest  variety  in  the  form 
and  aspect  of  their  foliage.  Towering  and  crested  palms 
shoot  upward  straight  as  an  arrow,  waving  their  pinion- 
Uke  leaves  in  the  breezes.     Arborescent  ferns  and  grasses. 


48  VALENCIA  AND  PUERTO   CABELLO, 

thirty  and  forty  feet  in  height,  add  their  colossal  forms  to 
the  greater  monarchs  of  the  forest.  Parasitic  plants  cover 
the  huge  trunks  and  limbs  of  the  trees,  and  vines  interlace 
their  wide-spreading  branches,  forming  a  thick,  tangled 
mass  of  verdure  through  which  no  ray  of  the  sun  ever 
penetrates.  Beneath,  constituting  what  might  be  called 
the  lower  stratum  of  vegetation,  are  bushes,  ferns,  and 
creeping  plants,  which  are  so  thickly  interwoven  as  to 
make  a  net-work  that  is  almost  impenetrable.  The  earth 
is  densely  carpeted  with  leaves,  mosses,  and  lichens,  and 
strewn  in  the  greatest  profusion  with  thousands  of  fallen 
flowers.  Such  was  the  forest  into  which  we  had  entered. 
Our  guide  preceded  us.  opening  a  way  with  his  machete, 
and  the  party  followed  in  single  file.  We  had  not  pene- 
trated far  in  these  deep  solitudes  before  we  discovered  the 
fresh  tracks  of  a  huge  tiger  deeply  embedded  in  the  soft 
earth.  After  several  hours  of  fruitless  travel  in  these  tan- 
gled wilds,  finding  pursuit  with  any  prospect  of  success  im- 
possible, we  abandoned  the  attempt,  and  determined  upon 
our  return,  taking  a  different  course  from  the  one  we  had 
come.  But  this  soon  brought  us  into  difliculty,  for  our 
circuitous  mode  of  travelling  bewildered  the  guide,  and, 
although  he  endeavored  to  keep  the  fact  from  us,  we  were 
not  long  in  making  the  rather  lanpleasant  discovery  that, 
for  aught  we  knew,  we  were  plunging  deeper  and  deeper 
into  a  boundless  wilderness.  We  would  descend  one 
mountain-ridge  but  to  mount  laboriously  another.  We 
ascended  the  highest  peaks,  and  climbed  to  the  tops  of  the 
tallest  trees,  only  to  be  rewarded  by  the  same  cheerless, 
interminable  line  of  waving  forest.  Once  were  we  glad- 
dened by  a  view  of  the  distant  Lake  of  Tacarigua,  but  in 
our  wanderings  in  the  inextricable  labyrinth  of  woods  our 
direction  was  again  lost.  Nearly  every  step  of  our  prog- 
ress had  to  be  cleared  with  the  machete.  Slowly  we 
toiled  along,  dragging  our  aching  bodies  wearily  up  pre- 


A   CIIEEELESS   NIGHT.  49 

cipitous  cliffs,  and,  bruised  and  exhausted,  would  land  at 
the  base  of  the  opposite  slope.  Under  these  severe  exer- 
tions one  of  the  party  gave  out  completely,  and  another 
was  bitten  on  the  hand  by  a  tnapanase^  a  venomoiis  ser- 
pent, the  effects  of  which  caused  a  frightful  swelling  of  the 
v/ounded  member,  but  was  prevented  from  proving  fatal 
by  the  application  of  liquid  ammonia,  an  antidote  we  al- 
ways took  the  precaution  to  be  provided  with.*  Ex- 
cepting coffee,  early  in  the  morning,  we  had  taken  nothing 
since  the  day  previous,  and  we  had  brought  nothing  with 
us ;  all  our  outer  garments  were  left  behind,  and  those  we 
wore  were  not  the  better  after  our  experiences  of  the  day. 
Darkness  at  last  terminated  our  wanderings,  when  we 
threw  ourselves  down  upon  the  stony  bank  of  a  moun- 
tain-torrent Avhich  came  thundering  down  from  the  granitic 
rocks  that  were  piled  above,  with  a  roar  that  made  the 
surrounding  hills  tremble.  Our  scanty  clothing  protected 
us  but  poorly  against  the  chilling  atmosphere  of  the  moun- 
tains, so  that  we  suffered  severely  from  the  cold.  The 
spray  from  the  stream  rendered  more  chilly  the  air,  and 
a  heavy  storm,  whose  rising  was  indicated  by  a  deeper 
darkness  and  stronger  gusts  of  wind  through  the  forest, 
threatened,  for  a  time,  to  add  to  our  discomfort ;  but  for- 
tunately it  swept  over  with  only  a  slight  dash  of  rain. 
Morning  at  length  came.  One  of  the  party  during  the 
night  had  unconsciously  crawled  to  the  edge  of  a  preci- 
pice, and  there  stretched  himself  upon  some  bushes  and 
tangled  vines,  where  a  single  incautious  move  or  an  open- 

*  This  specific  is  employed  with  success  by  the  natives  for  the  bite  of 
all  venomous  serpents.  It  is  also  useful  for  the  stings  of  poisonous  in- 
sects, and  no  traveller  to  the  tropics  should  be  unprovided  with  this  sim- 
ple means  of  security  against  the  evil  effects  of  venomous  creatures 
which  inhabit  those  regions.  Dr.  Fayrer,  of  Calcutta,  has,  however,  in  a 
very  interesting  series  of  experiments,  shown  that  ammonia  cannot  coun- 
teract the  virulent  poison  of  the  cobra. 


50  VALENCIA  AND   PUERTO   CABELLO. 

ing  of  the  treacherous  couch  would  have  let  him  into  the 
gulf  below.  Picking  up  our  rusty  guns  and  ourselves, 
wet  and  stiff  from  the  rain  and  cold,  we  followed  down 
the  bed  of  the  torrent,  climbing  over  the  huge  bowlders 
of  granite  which  blockaded  the  naiTOw  gorge,  forming 
cascades  and  rajjids,  as  the  waters  went  leaping  down  in 
their  haste  to  reach  the  deep  valley  beneath.  Whetlier 
the  stream  flowed  into  the  plain  of  Valencia  or  the  Atlan- 
tic, Ave  knew  not,  but  were  certain  that  it  must  be  in  one, 
and,  in  either  event,  by  following  its  course,  we  would  ex- 
tricate ourselves  from  the  forest.  About  the  middle  of 
the  forenoon  we  reached  Trinchara,  a  hamlet  about  mid- 
way on  the  road  from  Valencia  to  Puerto  Cabello.  The 
stream  which  had  been  our  guide,  descending  the  Cor- 
dillera to  the  northward,  emptied  its  waters  into  the 
ocean. 

Trinchara  was  seven  or  eight  leagues  from  our  hacienda 
by  the  main  road,  but  by  the  trail  OA'er  the  mountains  the 
distance  was  much  shorter.  The  hope  of  gaining  time 
led  us  to  choose  the  latter  course,  which  for  a  while  was 
well  defined,  but  at  length  became  lost  in  a  tangled  thicket. 
We  cut  our  way  through  dense  jungles  of  reeds  and  mat- 
ted woods,  climbed  precipices,  and  crossed  range  after 
range,  until  we  reached  a  hut  buried  in  the  wilderness. 
Learning  from  the  occupants  the  nearest  exit  from  the 
forest,  without  further  difliculty,  save  a  long  and  weari- 
some march,  we  reached,  toward  the  close  of  the  second 
day  of  our  setting  out,  the  hacienda  of  the  consul.  The 
native  left  with  our  mules  had  returned  with  them  on  the 
previous  night,  bringing  the  tidings  of  our  mysterious  ab- 
sence, which  caused  no  little  anxiety  to  our  friends.  Our 
wearied  condition  induced  us  to  accej^t  proffered  hospi- 
tality and  pass  the  night  at  the  hacienda,  dispatching  a 
servant  for  our  baggage  which  we  had  left  upon  the  moun- 
tain.    On  the  following  morning  we  returned  to  the  city, 


DESCENT   TO   THE  SEA-COAST.  5X 

and  thus    ended  our  unsuccessful  and  long-to-be-remem- 
bered tiger-hunt  in  the  mountains  of  Valencia. 

Our  excursions  having  now  embraced  most  places  of 
interest  upon  the  elevated  table-lands  of  Caracas  and  the 
valleys  of  Aragua  and  Valencia,  we  commenced  prepara- 
tions for  our  journey  to  the  Xilanos  of  the  interior.  "We 
determined,  however,  before  starting,  to  visit  once  more 
the  tierra  caliente  of  the  coast,  in  order  to  acquaint  our- 
selves more  fully  with  its  botany  and  zoology,  and  that 
we  might  also  forward  to  the  States  the  results  of  our 
labors  thus  far,  together  with  the  unnecessary  baggage, 
which  would  prove  an  encumbrance  to  us  in  our  long 
journey  to  the  Amazons.  Accordingly,  upon  the  morning 
of  the  7th  of  September,  we  left  Valencia  for  Puerto  Ca- 
bello,  reaching  the  summit  of  the  Cordillera,  over  which 
the  road  passes,  just  in  time  to  witness  a  glorious  sunrise. 
Leaving  the  crest,  we  commenced  the  descent  toward  the 
sea  through  a  deep  and  at  first  narrow  ravine,  the  road  at 
times  running  along  the  steep  slope,  overlooking  deep 
gorges,  and  then  descending  and  following  the  stream 
below.  The  sides  of  the  sierras  were  clothed  with  a  dense 
and  heavy  forest.  The  trees  were  hung  in  drapery  of  long, 
gray  moss,  and  decked  with  garlands  of  convolvulus,  pas- 
sion-flowers, and  an  endless  variety  of  parasitic  plants. 
Stately  monarchs  of  the  forest,  stripped  of  their  branches, 
and  covered  fi-om  base  to  summit  with  climbing  verdure, 
rose  like  huge  green  columns  in  the  surrounding  woods. 
Palm-trees,  of  all  tropical  vegetation  the  most  majestic  and 
beautiful,  lifted  high  toward  the  heavens  their  clusters  of 
rich,  rustling  verdure.  Conspicuous  in  the  midst  of  the 
eternal  green  were  seen  the  white  trunks  of  cecropias,  and 
the  branchless  stems  of  the  papaw-tree,  crowned  with  its 
immense  leaves  and  gourd-like  fruit.  The  milky  juice  of 
the  tree  is  said  to  have  the  efiicacy  of  making  meat  tender 
when  boiled  in  it  for  a  few  minutes;  and  even  animals  and 


52  VALENCIA  AND  PUEETO   CABELLO. 

fowls,  when  fed  upon  the  leaves,  will  have  tender  flesh, 
howevei'  tough  it  might  have  been  otherwise.  We  could 
not  refrain  from  wishing  that  this  tree,  upon  the  strength 
of  the  reputation  of  its  lacteal  fluid,  might  he  widely  in- 
troduced in  countries  outside  of  the  tropics. 

But  the  most  interesting  form  of  vegetation  which 
flourishes  in  the  greatest  abundance  through  these  rugged 
movmtain-wilds  is  the  famous  palo  de  vaca,  or  "  cow-tree," 
from  which  is  obtained,  when  incisions  are  made  in  the 
trunk,  a  milky  juice,  sweet  and  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and 
which  is  considerably  used  by  the  natives,  to  whom  it  fur- 
nishes an  exceedingly  nutritious  food.  The  tree  attains  a 
great  height ;  the  coriaceous  leaves  are  from  six  to  ten 
inches  in  length.  The  wood  is  red,  very  hard  and  durable. 
Mr.  Wallace,  in  enumerating  the  various  uses  to  which  the 
fluid  is  put  at  Para  upon  the  Amazons,  where  it  grows  in 
great  abundance,  says  that,  applied  fresh  from  the  tree  as 
a  glue,  it  is  more  durable  than  that  used  by  carpenters  ;  it 
also  makes  good  custard.  "  Amid  the  great  number  of 
curious  phenomena,"  says  Humboldt,  "  which  I  have  ob- 
served in  the  course  of  my  travels,  I  confess  there  are  few 
that  have  made  so  powerful  an  impression  on  me  as  the 
aspect  of  the  cow-tree."  There  is,  indeed,  something  pecu- 
liarly impressive  in  this  remarkable  tree,  which  will  not  be 
obliterated  from  the  mind  of  the  traveller  by  the  many 
other  wonders  of  tlie  equatorial  regions  that  may  come 
under  his  observation.  That  there  should  be  a  tree  mys- 
teriously elaborating  a  substance  devoid  of  all  acidity, 
bitterness,  and  the  deleterious  qualities  usually  belonging 
to  lactescent  plants,  and  which  is,  moreover,  a  delicious 
and  wholesome  aliment,  is  no  less  a  remarkable  fact  than  a 
beneficent  pi-ovision  for  the  inhabitants  of  a  country  who 
rely  mainly  upon  the  natural  resources  of  the  land  for  the 
supplying  of  their  wants. 

At  eight  A.  M.  we  reached  Trinchera,  the  place  of  our 


CAMBUKE.  53 

exit  from  the  mountains  when  npon  our  memorable  tiger- 
hunt.  Here  we  halted  for  coffee,  and  visited  the  thermal 
springs  which  have  given  such  a  world-wide  celebrity  to 
this  place.  They  are  situated  a  short  distance  from  the 
road,  in  a  deep  hollow,  through  which  flows  a  rivulet, 
from  whose  surface  rose  hot  vapors,  giving  forth  a  strong 
odor  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  springs,  wl^cli  issue 
from  a  coarse-grained  granite,  possess  a  temperature  of 
196°  Fahrenheit,  and,  according  to  Humboldt,  are,  next 
to  the  fountain  of  Urijino  in  Japan,  the  hottest  in  the 
world.  The  vapor  of  the  water  deposits  carbonate  of 
lime,  which  forms  incrustations  upon  the  plants  and  stones 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  stream.  If  exposed  in  an  open 
vessel  until  the  gas  has  escaped,  it  becomes  in  a  short 
time  as  pure  as  distilled  water. 

It  was  not  a  little  surprising  to  behold  how  luxuriant 
was  the  vegetation  along  this  hot-water  river.  Giant 
trees  reared  high  their  heads,  and  stretched  their  sjjread- 
ing  branches  over  this  Stygian  stream,  as  if  delighting  in 
the  hot,  sulphurous  exhalations  that  rose  from  the  surface, 
while  other  plants  sprung  up  in  the  very  midst  of  the 
rivulet  and  flourished  where  we  could  not  for  a  moment 
endure  to  hold  our  hand.  It  is  also  a  singular  phenom- 
enon that,  at  less  than  fifteen  yards  from  the  thermal 
springs,  there  gush  others  from  the  granitic  rock,  whose 
waters  are  perfectly  pure  and  cold. 

Resuming  our  journey  from  Trinchera,  in  four  leagues 
more,  accomplished  in  as  many  hours,  we  came  to  the 
wretched  little  village  of  Cambure,  comprising  about 
thirty  huts  situated  in  a  pestilential  swamp.  Having 
rested  a  couple  of  hours,  we  proceeded  on  our  way,  the 
valley  widening  as  we  neared  the  coast,  and  the  stream 
called  Hio  Agiia  Caliente,  Hot-water  lliver,  that  flowed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  swelling  into  a  considerable  tor- 
rent.    At  4  p.  M.,  at  a  sudden  turn  in  the  road,  we  were 


54  VALENCIA  AND   TUEKTO   CABELLO. 

broiiglit  in  full  view  of  the  ocean.  We  recalled  the  time 
when,  from  the  heights  of  Silla,  we  took  our  farewell  look 
of  the  Atlantic,  but  little  expecting  to  see  it  again  nntil 
we  should  behold  it  three  thousand  miles  away,  npon  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  continent. 

At  the  point  where  the  road  reaches  the  coast  and 
turns  eastward  is  Palito,  a  settlement  of  a  dozen  hovels,  a 
wretched  posada  for  travellers,  and  three  or  four  j^ulperias. 
Reaching  here  before  sunset,  we  enjoyed  a  refreshing 
bath  in  the  sea,  which  breaks  upon  this  unprotected  coast 
in  heavy  surges.  We  then  sauntered  through  the  tOAvn 
and  along  the  line  of  railway  which  is  building  from 
Puerto  Cabello  to  San  Feliiie,  fifty  miles  to  the  westward. 
This  heathenish  place  of  Palito  is  to  be  the  first  station, 
and  also  the  junction  with  a  branch  road  that  is  to  diverge 
over  the  mountains  to  Valencia.  But  it  is  extremely 
doubtful  whether  the  lines  will  ever  be  completed ;  opera- 
tions upon  them  have  been  suspended,  owing  to  the  inability 
of  the  government  to  fulfil  its  contract  with  the  company. 

Sabbath  was  spent  at  Palito,  and  Monday  morning,  long 
before  day,  we  left  for  Puerto  Cabello,  following  the  line  of 
tlie  coast  to  the  eastward  over  a  sandy  plain  a  league  in 
breadth.  We  forded  the  Pio  Caliente  and  a  number  of 
other  streams,  which,  by  their  overflow,  form  stagnant, 
malarious  pools,  and  sedgy,  serpent-abounding  jungles — 
real  Stygian  marshes.  As  Ave  approached  the  city,  the 
plain  became  more  fertile  and  cultivated,  and  we  passed 
broad  fields  of  maize,  plantations  of  the  broad-leaved 
banana,  and  extensive  groves  of  cocoa-nut  palms.  With- 
in two  miles  of  Puerto  Cabello  we  stopped  at  a  hacienda, 
where  we  spent  a  few  days.  At  night  we  swung  our  ham- 
mocks in  the  front  corridor ;  and  here  we  slept — no,  con- 
tended with  sancudos  (mosquitoes)  and  fleas,  and  chafed 
under  the  exciting  efiects  of  poison-ivy,  aggravated  by 
an  almost  unendurable  heat.     The  plant  referred  to  is  the 


COCOA-PALM.  55 

Hhus  toxicodendron^  so  well  known  with  us ;  it  is  the 
banc  of  these  lowlands  of  the  coast.  In  such  abundance 
does  it  grow  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  avoid  com- 
ing in  contact  with  it,  and  suffering  thereby  the  usual 
penalty.  We  here  discovered  also  another  of  our  north- 
ern shrubs,  Samhucus  Canadensis,  or  common  elder. 
This  last  we  found  upon  the  high  table-lands  and  also  far 
in  the  interior  of  the  country.  These  were  the  only  famil- 
iar indigenous  plants  that  we  met  with  in  our  rambles  in 
South  America ;  so  different  is  equatorial  vegetation  from 
our  northern. 

One  of  the  marked  features  of  this  hot  coast  is  the 
groves  of  cocoa-nut  j^alms  which  here  find  a  genial  home. 
Xot  often  does  Nature  produce  a  tree  that  is  so  variously 
useful  to  man.  The  leaves  are  employed  for  thatching, 
their  fibres  for  manufacturing  many  articles,  while  their 
ashes  produce  potash  in  abundance.  The  fruit  is  eaten 
raw,  and  in  many  ways  prepared  for  food ;  the  nut  yields 
an  oil  which  is  an  important  article  of  commerce;  the 
hard,  woody  shell  answers  for  cups  ;  the  milk  of  the  fruit 
is  a  cooling  beverage ;  the  saccharine  juice  of  the  tree 
also  affords  an  excellent  drink,  either  before  or  after  fer- 
mentation ;  while  from  the  young  stems  is  obtained  a  fari- 
naceous substance  similar  to  that  of  the  sago,  or  bread- 
palm.*  In  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  and  the  same  can  be  said 
of  palm-trees  generally,  Nature  admirably  unites  the  use- 
ful and  ornamental.  There  is  no  other  tree  which  contrib- 
utes so  largely  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  inliabitants  of 

*  The  bread-palm  must  uot  be  confounded  with  the  bread-fruit  tree 
( Carolinea  princeps),  which  is  not  indigenous  to  Venezuela,  although  com- 
mon in  the  country.  The  last  is  a  majestic  exogenous  tree  with  im 
mense,  shining  leaves  two  and  a  half  feet  in  length  and  two  in  breadth. 
The  fruit  is  as  large  as  a  cocoa-nut,  and  contains  many  chestnut-like 
seeds,  which,  cooked,  have  a  taste  somewhat  resembling  that  of  the  po- 
tato. 


56  VALENCIA  AND  PUEKTO  CABELLO. 

the  tropics.  It  is  one  of  the  numerous  causes  which  in 
southern  climes  tend  to  encourage  the  careless  indolence 
of  the  people.  We  can  imagine  but  few  more  beautiful 
sights,  or  a  more  inviting  reti*eat  upon  a  sultry  day,  than 
that  of  a  grove  of  cocoa-nut  jjalms,  and,  as  we  recall  the 
many  hours  of  "  luxurious  ease  "  spent  beneath  their  cool- 
ing shades,  we  cannot  but  exclaim  with  the  poet  *. 

"  Oh  stretched  amid  these  orchards  of  the  sun, 
Give  me  to  drain  the  cocoa's  milky  bowl, 
And  from  the  palm  to  draw  refreshing  wine  !  " 

Distant  from  our  hacienda  not  over  half  a  mile  was 
the  sea,  whither  we  frequently  resorted.  Fringing  the 
shore  was  a  belt  of  mangrove-trees,  whose  aerial  roots  in- 
terlacing form  an  impenetrable  thicket,  that  is  submerged 
at  every  rise  of  the  tide.  This  submarme  lattice-work  is 
covered  witli  shell-fish,  clinging  to  its  branches,  and  with 
sea-weeds,  drifted  thither  by  the  waves,  while  crabs  and 
mollusks  in  infinite  numbers  here  shelter  themselves  from 
the  violence  of  an  open  sea.  Thus  mangrove-forests,  by 
deposits  from  the  waves  among  their  tangled  net-work  of 
roots,  cause  a  gradual  encroachment  of  the  land  upon  the 
ocean ;  but  this  increase  of  territory  results  in  tlieir  own 
destruction ;  for,  as  tlie  shore  recedes,  and  their  roots  are 
no  longer  washed  by  the  tides,  the  trees  perish,  and  mark 
by  their  partially-buried  trunks  the  ancients  limits  of  the 
ocean.  The  deleterious  properties  possessed  by  this  sub- 
marine vegetation,  accompanied  with  the  noxious  exhala- 
tions that  usually  arise  from  marshy  ground  covered  with 
forest,  esj^ecially  in  a  heated  climate,  render  these  regions 
along  the  coast  exceedingly  unhealthy.  The  stifling  heat 
of  these  arid  j^laius  seemed  to  us  almost  insupportable, 
after  having  enjoyed  the  cool  and  delightful  atmosphere 
of  the  valleys  among  the  Cordilleras.  The  amount  of 
rain  that  falls  annually  is   much  less  than  at  Valencia, 


PUERTO  CABELLO.  57 

and  irrigation  is  necessary  to  preserve  verdure  and  pro- 
mote fertility. 

At  the  expiration  of  a  week  spent  uj^on  this  burning 
and  pestilential  plain,  we  took  up  our  abode  in  Puerto 
Cabello,  the  j^ort  of  entry  to  Valencia.  Affording  good 
commercial  facilities,  it  has  become  a  town  of  considera- 
ble importance,  containing  a  population  of  ten  thousand, 
among  which  are  many  foreigners,  in  whose  hands  is 
much  of  the  business  of  the  place.  We  see  here  more  in- 
dications of  thrift  and  enterprise  than  we  have  observed 
elsewhere  in  the  country.  The  trade  is  chiefly  in  exports, 
of  which  coffee,  cacao,  cotton,  hides,  and  indigo,  form  the 
greater  part.  The  harbor,  unlike  the  roadstead  of  La 
Guaira,  is  well  sheltered,  there  being  but  a  narrow  en- 
trance upon  the  west,  which  is  also  jjrotected  by  islands, 
and  by  the  natural  curvature  of  the  main-land ;  so  that 
vessels  can  ride  at  anchor  within,  secure  from  tlie  sea 
which  breaks  so  heavily  upon  the  outer  coast.  The  bay 
swarms  with  voracious  sharks,  so  that  only  at  the  peril  of 
life  can  the  water  be  entered ;  while  at  La  Guaira  these 
cetaceous  monsters  are  harmless  creatures,  and  there  the 
sea  is  continually  filled  with  bathers,  and  with  natives  en- 
gaged in  transferring  freight  from  shipboard  to  land. 
The  defences  of  the  town  are  a  battery,  which  guards  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor;  another  that  stands  to  the  east  of 
the  city ;  with  a  castle  which  crowns  a  rocky  eminence  five 
hundred  feet  high,  overlooking  the  place.  There  is,  how- 
ever, but  little  danger  to  be  apprehended  from  foreign 
invasion,  the  security  of  the  city  being  threatened  only  by 
the  political  convulsions  to  which  this  country  is  sub- 
ject. 

Our  stay  at  Puerto  Cabello,  Avhich  was  necessarily 
short,  now  drew  to  a  close,  and  with  it  terminated  our 
rambles  in  Nortliern  Venezuela. 


CHAPTER    VI 

OYER,   THE    MOUIfTAI]srS   TO    THE    LLANOS. AFLOAT    IX   THE 

FOKEST, 

"Water-system  of  South  America. — Our  Route. — Leave  Puerto  Cabello. — 
Last  Visit  to  Valencia. — A  Soutli  American  Eoad. — Fording  a  EiVer. — 
Wild  Scenery. — Niglit  at  a  Posada. — First  View  of  Llanos. — Their  E.^- 
tout  and  General  Features. — Town  of  Pao. — Embarked  for  Baul. — Our 
Bongo. — "Very  bad"  to  wash  before  Breakfast. — Palms. — Bam- 
boos.— Alligators. — Howling  Monkeys. — Lost  in  the  Forest. — Navigat- 
ing under  Difficulties. — Shooting  Kapids. — Xight  at  a  Llano  Hut. 

The  water-system  of  South  America  is  a  remarkable 
one,  not  only  in  the  vastness  of  its  majestic  rivers,  but  also 
in  the  curious  anastomosing  of  its  great  streams.  The 
Orinoco,  Rio  Negro,  and  Amazons,  with  their  extended  and 
vmited  arms,  reach  around  and  island  the  northeastern 
portion  of  the  continent,  embracing  Guiana,  with  a  large 
part  of  Venezuela,  and  a  considerable  portion  of  Brazil. 
You  might  circumnavigate  this  tract  with  a  canoe.  No 
continent  affords  better  commercial  facilities.  Steamers 
may  pass  up  the  Amazons,  by  its  Peruvian  waters,  to  the 
foot  of  the  Andes.  The  continent  is  thus  not  only 
traversable  its  entire  breadth,  but  also  length,  by  means 
of  its  w^ater-courses.  A  canoe  starting  in  at  the  delta  of 
the  Orinoco  can  be  paddled  lengthwise  of  the  continent  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  the  paddling  being 
exchanged  for  short  towages  around  the  rapids  of  the 
Upper  Orinoco  and  Madeira  Rivers. 


OUR  ROUTE.  59 

But  WO  must  forego  these  general  remai'ks,  and,  an- 
ticij^ating  the  expectations  of  our  readers,  I'ecount  some 
of  the  experiences  and  incidents  which  make  up  the  his- 
tory of  our  voyages  upon  these  rivers.  Let  ns  first  briefly 
designate  the  route  pursued  across  the  continent.  From 
Puerto  Cabello,  Ave  made  the  passage  of  the  Cordilleras 
to  the  head-w^aters  of  the  Pao,  a  tributary  of  the  Apure,  and 
passed  down  that  river  to  its  confluence  with  the  latter,  and 
then  down  the  Apure  to  the  Orinoco.  Then  we  ascended 
that  river,  dragging  our  canoes  around  the  cataracts  en- 
countered near  its  middle  waters,  and  ci'ossed  by  a  portage 
of  ten  miles  to  the  Rio  Negro.*  Down  the  black  waters  of 
the  Rio  Negro  we  floated  to  the  Amazons,  and  then,  ex- 
changing our  little  craft  for  a  steamer,  passed  down  that 
majestic  river  to  the  sea.  The  distance  traversed  was 
over  three  thousand  miles,  with  obstacles  to  overcome 
that  can  only  be  conceived  of  by  those  who  have  pene- 
trated into  the  trackless  wilds  of  these  almost  unfrequent- 
ed regions.  Much  of  the  journey  was  performed  by 
canoe  across  inundated  plains,  where  the  sun  is  the  only 
guide  to  the  traveller ;  through  flooded  forest,  penetrable 
only  as  a  path  is  opened  with  the  axe  ;  and  upon  impetuous 
and  rock-obstructed  rivers.  Our  bed  at  night  was  often 
the  bank  of  some  stream,  or  in  the  deep  gloom  of  the  for- 
est, with  the  roaring  of  crocodiles,  the  plaintive  cry  of 
monkeys,  and  the  howl  of  tigers  to  lull  us  to  sleep.  More- 
over, the  climate  of  the  interior  was  exceedingly  hot  and 
malarious,  and  means  of  transportation  were  so  limited 
that  scarcely  sufiicient  could  be  carried  to  meet  our  most 
urgent  necessities  during  our  protracted  voyage  of  four 
months. 

Our  first  care  was  to  dispatch  to  the  States  every  thing 
excepting  what  would  be  absolutely  indisj^ensable  to  us 

*  This  portage  might  have  been  avoided  by  following  the  Cassiquiare, 
a  circuitous  water-channel,  which  unites  the  waters  of  the  two  rivers. 


60  OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

upon  our  journey.  For  the  sake  of  the  curious,  we  will 
incidentally  remark  that,  aside  from  the  suit  worn,  which 
was  woollen  throughout,  the  extra  clothing  of  each,  to 
which  were  added  a  few  other  necessary  articles,  Avas 
packed  in  an  ordinary  army  haversack.  Each  one  was  fur- 
thermore supplied  with  a  cobija,  or  poncho,  and  hammock, 
and  a  gun  with  its  accompanying  paraphernalia.  A  few 
simple  instruments  that  were  also  added  to  our  stock,  with 
a  botanical  box  and  press,  completed  our  outfit,  the  en- 
tire weight  of  which  did  not  exceed  one  hundred  and 
twenty-live  pounds,  or  an  average  of  about  forty  pounds 
to  a  man. 

Preparations  for  our  journey  being  completed,  we  left 
Puerto  Cabello  upon  the  afternoon  of  the  1 7th  of  Septem- 
ber, reaching  Valencia  upon  the  evening  of  the  following 
day,  where  we  spent  one  day  in  concluding  arrangements 
for  the  journey  of  eighteen  leagues  over  the  Cordilleras  to 
Pao — the  head  of  canoe-navigation  upon  Pao  River.  A 
donkey,  which  we  afterward  gave  away,  was  purchased 
for  ten  pesos,  for  the  transportation  of  our  baggage,  and 
by  5  p.  M.  we  were  ready  for  starting.  It  was  not  with- 
out many  misgivings  that  we  left  the  genial  and  salubri- 
ous climate  of  the  mountain  valleys  for  the  submerged 
and  malarious  regions  of  the  Llanos,  and  the  wild,  unex- 
plored forests  of  the  Orinoco.  We  parted,  too,  with 
many  regrets  from  the  friends  formed  during  our  brief 
stay  at  Valencia,  whose  kindness  will  not  soon  be  forgot- 
ten. Especially  are  we  indebted  to  SeSor  E.  Staal,  a  let- 
ter of  introduction  from  whom  to  a  gentleman  in  Pao  was 
the  commencement  of  a  series  which  extended  from  place 
to  place  across  the  continent,  and  which  proved  of  invalu- 
able service  to  us.  After  many  a  hearty  shake  of  the 
hand,  accompanied  with  endless  '■^huenas  viajes,''''  and 
"  Bios  guardes^''  we  separated,  turning  our  faces  toward 
the  sierras  of  Nigua,  with  its  long  lines  of  shadowy  hills 


A  SOUTH  AMERICAN  EOAD.  qi 

stretcliing  away  in  the  distance.  As  we  Avended  our  Avay 
through  the  narrow  streets,  every  window,  door,  and  ve- 
randa, was  filled  with  heads,  some  drawn  thither  from 
idle  curiosity  to  see  "  Los  Americanos,"  others  to  give  us 
a  parting  adios. 

The  sun  was  lingering  above  the  western  hills  when 
we  made  our  exit  from  the  city,  shedding  its  golden 
beams  over  mountains,  plains,  and  forests,  as  if  to  give  us 
one  more  glorious  view  of  this  lovely  valley.  We  shall 
not  soon  forget  either  the  beauties  of  that  sunset  eve,  or 
the  many  scenes  and  associations  of  Valencia.  It  was 
after  dark  when  we  halted  for  the  night  at  the  same 
miserable  posada  which  had  sheltered  us  upon  a  pi'evious 
occasion,  when  overtaken  by  night,  and  lost  upon  the 
plains.  In  a  small  room,  shared  with  a  man  and  boy, 
benches,  tables,  boxes,  saddles,  boards,  poles,  hoes,  water- 
jars,  barrels,  green  cornstalks,  sancudos,  and  fleas,  we 
managed  to  pass  the  night.  It  Avas  scarcely  dawn  when 
we  were  again  on  our  journey,  our  road  leading  across  a 
grassy  plain  toward  the  range  of  hills  which  separates  the 
valley  of  Valencia  from  the  Llanos  beyond. 

One  who  has  travelled  only  over  the  finely-built  high- 
ways of  our  country,  can  have  but  a  faint  conception  of 
what  is  analogous  to  such  in  the  tropics.  A  road  here 
means  simply  a  beaten  path,  with  branches  diverging  in 
every  direction,  to  the  utter  bewilderment  of  the  traveller. 
Some  of  the  roads  consist  of  a  number  of  parallel  paths, 
worn  by  the  tread  of  animals  into  deep  gullies,  which, 
upon  the  mountain-slopes,  in  the  season  of  rains,  consti- 
tute water-channels,  through  which  torrents  flow  down, 
rendering  travelling  not  only  exceedingly  difficult  but 
dangerous.  ISTo  biidges  span  the  streams,  which  must  be 
crossed  by  fording  or  swimming,  while  exposed  to  vora- 
cious caimans,  or  alligators,  and  other  dangerous  pests  of 
these  tropical  waters. 


62      OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

It  was  along  one  of  these  trails  that  we  were  now  di- 
recting our  course.  We  found  the  streams  greatly  swol- 
len, and  the  road  nearly  impassable,  for  the  rainy  season 
had  not  yet  drawn  to  a  close ;  but  we  met  with  no  serious 
obstacle  until  some  three  leagues  on  our  journey,  when  a 
riyer,  larger  than  any  we  had  yet  encountered,  threw  it- 
self across  our  path.  AYe  sat  down  vipon  the  bank  of  the 
swollen  torrent  to  discuss  the  probabilities  of  a  safe  tran- 
sit, and  to  Avatch  a  party  of  natives  who  were  making  the 
passage.  The  animals  were  forced  to  swim,  while  their 
cargoes  were  carried  over  upon  the  heads  of  the  men. 
We  watched  the  novel  spectacle  until  sufficiently  ac- 
quainted with  the  modus  ojyerandi,  when  we  commenced 
the  crossing,  taking  our  joackages  upon  our  heads,  d  la 
Creole.  We  reached  the  opposite  shore  safely;  but  our 
little  donkey,  unable  to  stem  the  current,  was  swept  down 
the  stream;  but,  fortunately,  the  precaution  had  been 
taken  to  attach  a  long  rope  to  his  neck,  and  by  this  poor 
huri'O  was  drasfged  to  land.  After  some  time  consumed 
in  these  ferrying  operations,  we  continued  on  over  the 
plain  a  league  failher,  when  we  commenced  the  gradual 
ascent  of  the  mountains,  and,  toward  the  close  of  the  day, 
we  stood  upon  the  summit  of  the  first  range  of  the  Cor- 
dillera crossed  in  going  to  Pao  fi'om  Valencia,  where  we 
enjoyed  a  wide  sweep  of  wild  mountain  scenery.  South- 
ward rugged  and  barren  ranges  were  piled  one  upon  an- 
other, and  at  their  bases  lay  picturesque  valleys,  slightly 
wooded,  and  sprinkled  over  with  little  huts,  surrounded 
with  patches  of  maize  and  bananas,  which  presented 
charming  spots  in  the  midst  of  the  mountain  ruggedness. 
Wending  our  way  down  along  the  edge  of  a  precipitous 
cliff  into  one  of  the  beautiful  glens  stretched  out  beneath 
us,  we  stopped  for  the  night  at  a  mud  posada,  a  way-side 
inn,  glorying  in  total  darkness  within. 

The  sun  had  not  yet  risen  when  we  were  again  mak- 


NIGHT  AT  A  POSADA.  63 

ing  our  way  over  a  wild,  barren  region,  either  winding 
through  rugged  defiles,  or  mounting  by  circuitous  paths 
the  ranges  of  the  Cordilleras.  The  trail  at  one  time 
would  lead  down  abrupt  descents  into  deep  and  almost 
inextricable  ravines,  not  unfrequently  between  cliifs  near- 
ly closing  above  us,  over  ranges,  furrowed  deeply  by 
torrents,  and  so  precipitous  and  slippery  that  our  animal 
could  mount  them  only  as  he  was  lifted  almost  bodily  up 
the  heights.  After  a  day  of  wearisome  climbing  we 
reached  by  5  r.  m.  a  posada,  whose  inviting  apj^earance, 
added  to  the  uncertainty  of  finding  another  stopping- 
place  Avithin  a  convenient  distance,  induced  us  to  make 
this  the  terminus  of  our  day's  journey.  Dinner  being  im- 
mediately called  for,  was  promised  ^:)ro7i^o  (quickly),  which 
meant  any  time  before  next  morning.  A  familiar  cry, 
heard  soon  alter,  prognosticating  evil  to  a  feathered 
gamester,  was  suggestive  of  good  things  coming.  For 
three  mortal  hours,  however,  we  waited  for  further  de- 
velopments, when  at  length  came  the  summons,  Venga  d 
coiner.  Turning  to  the  farther  corner  of  the  apartment, 
where  we  had  been  reclining  in  our  hammocks,  the  faint 
glimmering  of  a  light  from  a  bit  of  rag  burning  in  a  cup 
of  fat  revealed  to  us,  upon  a  table  spread  with  a  dirty 
cloth,  the  disjointed  members  of  a  half-cooked  fowl, 
which,  judging  from  its  toughness,  must  have  enjoyed 
the  walks  of  life  for  a  much  longer  period  of  years  than 
usually  falls  to  the  lot  of  his  race.  In  addition,  there 
were  three  calabashes  of  soup  to  be  eaten  by  means  of 
pieces  of  broken  crockery  used  as  spoons. 

In  the  morning,  after  the  customary  calabash  of  coffee, 
we  resumed  our  journey,  winding  along  giddy  heights, 
where  a  traveller's  sense  of  insecurity  is  not  lessened  by 
the  momentary  prospect  of  meeting,  at  any  turn  of  his 
path,  scarcely  wide  enough  for  his  beast  to  tread,  loaded 
animals  going  in  the  opposite  direction,  which,  rushing 


04      OVEK  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

down,  threaten  to  liurl  every  opposing  obstacle  over  the 
frightful  cliff.  Trains  of  animals  crossino-  the  Cordilleras 
have  a  bell  attached  to  the  neck  of  the  leader,  or  are  pre- 
ceded by  a  drover  with  a  conch-shell  that  is  blown  to 
give  notice  of  the  approaching  line,  but  which  does  not  al- 
ways prevent  a  collision  that  sometimes  results  most  disas- 
trously. We  frequently  encountered  troops  of  pack-mules 
and  donkeys  going  to  Valencia ;  but,  being  always  on  the 
qui  vive,  we  were  spared  any  of  these  unpleasant  episodes. 
We  at  length  descended  into  a  heavily-timbered  valley, 
and,  rising  from  this  to  the  summit  of  the  last  range  of 
the  Cordillera,  we  beheld  for  the  first  time  the  Llanos  of 
Venezuela.  One  can  scarcely  imagine  the  pleasure  af- 
forded us,  as,  after  travelling  amid  the  wildest  of  moun- 
tain scenery,  we  looked  down  upon  this  great  sea  of  ver- 
dure which,  joined  with  the  sylvas  of  Brazil  and  the 
pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres,  stretched  far  away  thousands 
of  miles  into  the  regions  of  southern  frost. 

The  Llanos  of  Venezuela  are  separated  from  the  great 
forest  of  the  Amazons  by  the  mountains  of  Guiana,  or,  as 
sometimes  termed,  the  sierras  of  Parima,  and  bounded 
upon  the  north  by  the  littoral  range  of  the  coast,  bearing 
different  local  names,  as  the  mountains  of  Puerto  Cabello, 
Caracas,  and  Cumana.  The  plains  thus  have  a  width  of 
about  four  hundred  miles,  while  in  length  they  stretch 
from  the  great  delta  of  the  Orinoco  more  than  a  thousand 
miles  westvv^ard  to  the  Andes  of  Colombia.  By  far  the 
greater  portion  of  this  immense  plain  is  covered  with 
luxuriant  grass,  but  often  broken  by  tracts  of  forest,  and 
belted  by  the  heavily-wooded  courses  of  the  many  rivers. 
Draining  these  savannas  is  the  Orinoco,  the  second  river 
in  size  of  South  America,  which  is  swollen  by  the  thou- 
sand streams  from  the  mountains  of  Guiana  upon  the  south, 
and  from  the  Andes  of  Colombia,  and  the  coast-chain  of 
Venezuela,  upon  the  west  and  north.     The  swelling  of 


THE  LLANOS,  G5 

these  rivers  during  the  season  of  rains  causes  the  inun- 
dation of  large  portions  of  the  country,  so  that  it  can  be 
traversed  only  by  canoes.  When  the  waters  subside,  the 
grass,  which  has  been  parched  under  the  cloudless  sky  of 
the  dry  season  preceding  the  overflow,  quickly  springs 
up,  and  in  a  short  time  the  earth  is  again  clothed  with 
beautiful  verdure.  That  part  of  the  Llanos  situated 
north  of  the  Orinoco  and  Apui'e  is  divided  into  tracts 
known  as  the  "plains  of  Matvirin,  Barcelona,  and  Guarico, 
while  the  more  southern  portions  are  known  as  the  savan- 
nas of  the  Apure,  Meta,  and  Guaviare.  The  general  slope 
of  the  Llanos  is  toward  the  northeast ;  or,  rather,  they 
describe  a  quadrant,  the  upper  portion  of  the  basin  slop- 
ing toward  the  north,  the  lower  toward  the  east,  which 
gives  direction  to  the  waters  of  the  Orinoco.  The  slight 
elevation  of  these  great  plains,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
basin  of  the  Amazons,  is  one  of  the  striking  features  in 
their  physical  aspect.  "  If, "  says  Humboldt,  "  fi'om  the 
effects  of  some  peculiar  attraction,  the  waters  of  the  At- 
lantic were  to  rise  fifty  toises  *  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ori- 
noco, and  two  hundred  toises  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amazons, 
the  floods  would  submerge  more  than  the  half  of  South 
America.  The  entire  eastern  declivity,  or  the  foot  of  the 
Andes,  now  six  hundred  leagues  distant  from  the  coast  of 
Brazil,  would  become  a  shore  beaten  by  the  waves.  " 

One  of  the  most  significant  of  the  streams  that  flow 
into  the  basin  of  the  Llanos  of  Venezuela  from  the  north- 
ern Cordilleras  is  the  Rio  Pao,  which,  taking  its  rise 
among  the  mountains  of  the  littoral  chain,  winds  over  the 
plains  in  a  southerly  direction,  assuming  the  name  of 
Portuguesa  before  its  confluence  with  the  Apure.  Distant 
one  and  a  half  leagues  from  the  summit  of  the  sierras,  where 
we  first  came  in  view  of  the  Llanos,  is  situated  the  town 
of  Pao,  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream  whose  name  it  bears. 

*  A  toise  is  a  Frencli  measure,  containing  about  6.4  English  feet. 


66      OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

It  was  after  sunset  wlicn  we    entered   the  place,  which 
comprises  about  five  thousand  inhabitants. 

Through  the  assistance  of  Mr.  E.  Rodriguez,  a  German 
resident,  we  secured  a  canoe  and  crew  for  our  journey  to 
Baul,  the  first  town  reached  in  descending  the  Pao,  and 
about  half  the  distance  to  San  Fernando  de  Apure.  Sup- 
plies for  a  week's  voyage  were  requisite,  and  these  we  set 
about  procuring.  First  was  fresh  beef,  brought  to  us  in 
leathery  strips  and  gristly  sheets,  which*  after  it  was 
thoroughly  salted,  we  dried,  and  then,  with  the  Venezue- 
lians,  called  it  came  seca.  To  our  meat  were  added  cas- 
sava, goats'  cheese,  salt,  papelon,  or  the  consolidated  sugar 
of  the  cou.ntry,  bottles  of  manteca,  or  butter,  with  a  lib- 
eral quantity  of  green  plantains.  Then  there  were  culi- 
nary utensils — two  iron  pots,  one  for  cofiee,  the  other  for 
general  purposes — and  the  indispensable  machete,  which 
answered  for  axe  and  carving-knife. 

The  morning  of  the  25th  of  October,  after  three  days' 
delay  at  El  Pao,  we  were  ready  to  embark  upon  our 
voyage.  Our  craft  was  long — to  uneducated  American 
minds,  like  ours,  too  long — but  was  not  at  all  successful  as 
to  width,  but  then  it  is  in  canoes  as  little  as  in  mortals  to 
command  success  in  every  particular,  and  we  can  say  for 
our  boat  that  length  covered  a  multitude  of  sins  as  Avell 
as  feet.  For  a  picture  of  it,  scoop  out  forty  feet  of  a 
tree,  with  the  largest  diameter  less  than  two  feet,  and  the 
average  hardly  more  than  one,  build  a  thatch,  or  carroza, 
over  the  middle  half,  just  filling  out  the  original  contour 
of  the  log,  tie  a  rough  steei'ing-oar  to  the  stern,  and  call 
the  whole  a  hongo,  and  you  have  it  complete.  As  at  that 
time  we  were  modest  and  unpretending,  our  crew  was 
small.  First,  Viviano,  generalissimo  of  the  palanca.,  armed 
Avith  a  long  pole,  occupied  the  bow.  His  duty  was  to 
walk  toward  the  stern  as  far  as  the  carroza  would  permit, 
leaning  heavily  on  his  palanca,  placed  on  the  bottom  of 


EilBAEKED  FOE  BAUL.  G7 

the  river,  or  any  neighboring  rock  or  limb,  as  was  most 
convenient,  then,  nsing  his  pole  as  a  balancer,  to  walk,  d 
la  JBlondin,  up  the  inclined  plane  formed  by  the  rise  in 
the  bow,  and  repeat  the  operation.  From  his  head  to  his 
knees,  Viviano  diftered  not  essentially  from  the  gener- 
ality of  mortals,  but  below  that  was  somewhat  unique. 
At  his  knees  his  legs  dispersed,  choosing  jjaths  of  life  as 
diverging  as  possible.  Whether  Nature  intended  Viviano 
for  a  palancasist,  par  excelknce,  is  doubtful,  but  his  form 
was  vmdoubtedly  of  great  advantage  to  him,  for,  where 
more  commonplace  men  would  walk  with  fear  and  uncer- 
tainty, he,  his  feet  just  fitting  nicely  to  the  sides  of  the 
.  bongo,  walked  with  imconcern.  Ever  himgry  and  ever 
eating,  Viviano  was  yet  the  leanest  of  men ;  but  that  fact 
was  easily  accounted  for  from  his  always  talking  when 
compatible  Avith  eating.  Our  ^j»a?;'0?i,  Alvino  by  name, 
who  handled  the  clumsy  steering-oai',  Avas  an  old  man  of 
eighty-two  summers,  if  it  is  possible  to  say  "  summers  " 
in  reference  to  that  country,  and  was  the  father  of  Viviano 
and  the  small  boy,  who  Avas  perched  on  "  airy  nothing," 
behind  his  father.  To  the  words  of  the  patron,  liis  sons  and 
every  one  whom  we  met  paid  the  greatest  deference,  and 
indeed  the  respect  paid  always  to  old  age  was  very 
marked ;  rarely  did  a  young  person  salute  an  old  man 
without  kneeling.  El  Patron's  knowledge  of  geography 
was  not  extensive,  but  at  least  j^atriotic ;  his  enumeration 
of  the  countries  of  the  world  ended  with  Venezuela,  ut- 
tered triumphantly  as  the  incontrovertible  acme  of  gran- 
deur. Under  the  carroza  were  stowed  our  supplies,  uten- 
sils, arms,  and  baggage ;  and  there  was  also,  as  Alvino 
gravely  informed  us,  to  be  our  place  of  refuge  from  the 
storms,  although  it  was  difficult  for  iis  to  conceive  how, 
when  every  thing  Avas  in,  there  Avould  be  space  left  for 
more  than  one  at  either  end,  and  for  only  half  the  length 
of  the  body  at  that. 


C8      OVEE  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

At  length  we  were  under  way,  floating  down  the  swift- 
rolling  waters  of  the  Pao,  adding  the  strength  of  the  pa- 
lanca  to  the  progressive  force  of  the  current.  Picture  to 
yourself  a  narrow,  many-folded  river — to  which  Tiber  in 
its  turbidest  was,  undoubtedly,  as  a  clear  and  sparkling 
fountain — a  stream  so  opaque  that  the  idea  suggested  itself 
to  one  of  the  party  that  perhaps  "  Afric's  sunny  fountain  " 
had  got  lost,  and  by  mistake  had  "  rolled  down  its  golden 
sand "  into  El  Dorado,  which  was  successful  in  damping 
it  a  little.  However,  so  long  as  our  gallant  craft  was 
floated,  we  could  not  complain,  and,  as  for  drink,  it  went 
further  and  gave  us  meat  which,  if  not  as  nutritious,  was 
at  least  not  tougher  than  the  strips  of  toro  which  orna- 
mented our  carroza.  The  wooded  banks  were  low,  but  a 
few  feet  above  high  water,  with  now  and  then  a  hut,  just 
visible  through  the  thick  foliage  of  banana-leaves. 

Our  first  day's  voyage  was  short,  as  the  hour  was  late 
when  we  started,  and  nearly  three  hours  were  consumed 
in  obtaining  a  meal,  which  an  untimely  rain  greatly  im- 
peded in  preparation.  The  extended  acquaintance  of  our 
patron,  and  the  respect  his  whitened  head  everywhere  com- 
manded, readily  gained  us  admission  for  the  night  at  the 
house  of  a  friend,  the  occupants  retiring  to  a  neighbor's 
hut,  giving  us  entire  possession.  Aroused  by  the  patron 
at  the  first  appearance  of  day,  we  reembarked,  and  were 
soon  shooting  swiftly  down  the  current  beneath  the  shad- 
ows of  the  dark  forest  which  rose  from  either  bank.  From 
the  dej^ths  of  those  solitudes  no  sound  was  heard,  and 
naught  broke  the  death-like  stillness  of  the  early  morning 
save  the  stroke  of  the  oar  as  it  cleaved  the  waves,  and  the 
plunge  of  the  alligator,  as,  startled  from  his  rest,  he  glided 
off"  the  slimy  bank,  and  disappeared  in  the  turbid  waters. 

Reaching,  soon  after  sunrise,  the  base  of  a  low,  rocky 
hill,  we  drew  ashore  for  breakfast.  At  once  we  betook 
ourselves  to  our  morning  ablutions,  when  the  chiding  voice 


"VEEY  BAD"   TO   WASH  BEFOEE  BKEAKPAST.         qq 

of  Alvino,  our  ever-watclifiil  guardian,  was  heard,  as- 
suring us  it  was  "  niui/  malo  "  (very  bad)  to  wash  before 
breakfast,  as  it  brought  on  the  calenture,  or  fever.  This 
superstitious  notion  we  found  very  prevalent  among  the 
people  of  the  Llanos ;  but,  notwithstanding  tlie  warning 
of  our  patron,  who  was  evidently  neither  a  Pharisee  nor 
a  holder  of  their  traditions,  we  went  on  with  our  bath. 
Unfortunately  for  our  side  of  the  question,  two  of  the 
party  eventually  were  prostrated  with  the  calenture^  when 
the  old  sage  shook  his  hoary  head  in  confirmed  conviction 
of  the  fulfilment  of  his  predictions.  Generally  we  landed 
but  once  during  the  day  for  a  meal,  and  that  for  break- 
fast, about  nine  or  ten  o'clock ;  our  dinner — if  the  hour 
v/ill  allow  the  name — being  taken  when  we  bivouacked  for 
the  night. 

Upon  the  morning  referred  to  above,  we  delayed 
several  hours,  while  our  boatmen  gathered  smooth,  silicious 
stones  of  an  oval  shape,  and  large  blocks  of  sandstone. 
The  latter,  when  hollowed  upon  one  side,  together  with 
one  of  the  smaller  stones,  form  primitive  mills,  such  as 
are  seen  in  every  Venezuelian  hut.  Upon  the  Llanos, 
where  nothing  more  compact  than  sand  can  be  obtained, 
these  stones  command  a  good  price ;  the  larger  size,  in 
weight  about  fifteen  pounds,  bringing  from  two  to  three 
pesos  each,  and  the  smaller  ones,  of  two  pounds,  twenty- 
five  cents  apiece.  As  the  remuneration  received  from  us 
by  our  patron  was  not  large,  we  Avillingly  acceded  to  his 
wish  to  collect  the  stones  ;  and,  after  our  arrival  at  Baul, 
we  had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  he  realized  a 
good  compensation  for  his  labors. 

With  our  extra  ballast  we  again  got  under  vv'ay, 
gliding  down  through  the  forest  channel,  now  no  longer 
silent,  but  awakened  by  Nature's  gay-plumaged  vocalists, 
loquacious  parrots  and  paroquets.  Aquatic  birds  covered 
the  water  and  stalked  the  shore ;  vtdiile  alligators,  with 


70      OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

opened  jaws,  lay  basking  in  the  bi-iglit  sun  upon  the 
shelving  borders  of  the  stream.  Xot  more  strange  and 
varied  were  the  forms  of  animated  life  than  Avere  the 
beauty. and  exuberance  of  vegetation,  which  rose  above 
us  in  walls  of  eternal  green,  variegated  with  flowers  that 
decked  richly  the  trees,  and  filled  the  air  with  their  fi-a. 
grance.  The  small,  slender,  and  delicately-pinnated  foli- 
age of  mimosas  and  tamarinds  contrasted  pleasingly  with 
the  many  large,  coriaceous-leaved  species  that  filled  the 
forest.  The  arum,  that  giant  of  aerial  plants,  trumpet- 
llowered  bignonias,  banisterias,  and  passion-flowers,  with 
thousands  of  orchidaceous  plants  of  exquisite  beauty, 
covered  the  branches  and  embowered  the  trees.  Palms 
rose  in  forms  and  numbers  unknown  in  the  higher  altitudes 
of  the  Cordilleras.  Here  was  the pahna  de  cobija  {Cory- 
pha  tectoriim)  or  roofing  palm,  its  palmate  leaves  few  in 
number,  with  the  lower  ones  withered  and  drooping,  giving 
the  tree  a  gloomy  and  mournful  asj)ect.  The  stem,  twenty 
to  thirty  feet  in  height,  like  that  of  the  palmetto  so  abun- 
dant along  our  Southern  seaboard,  is  remarkable  for  main- 
taining a  constant  diameter  of  eight  or  ten  inches  in 
all  individuals  of  the  species.  The  wood"  is  hard  and 
durable,  making  excellent  building-timber  where  exposure 
to  the  weather  is  necessary,  nor  is  it  subject  to  the  ravages 
of  ants,  which  are  such  wood-destroyers  in  the  tropics. 
The  leaves  ai-e  employed  by  the  natives  of  the  Llanos  for 
covering  roofs. 

But  a  far  more  beautiful  palm  growing  here  than  the 
one  just  described,  and  one  more  generally  useful,  is  the 
Moriche  {Mauritia  Jlexuosa),  or  what  is  known  as  the 
sago  or  bread-tree  of  the  country.  It  resembles  the  above 
in  the  form  of  its  leaves,  which  are  folded  like  a  fan ;  but 
these  are  much  larger  than  are  those  of  the  former  species, 
as  is  also  the  trunk,  which  attains  a  height  of  fifty  and 
even  eio-htv  feet.     It  is  a  tree  of  wide  distribution  and 


PALMS.  "71 

very  abundant,  and  with  it  is  intimately  connected  the 
existence  of  the  Warauns,  a  tribe  of  Indians  who  inhabit 
the  delta,  or  submerged  lands  of  tlie  mouth  of  the  Orino- 
co. Their  habitations  are  hung  between  the  trees,  above 
the  reach  of  wild  beast  and  inundating  floods.  The  fari- 
naceous pith  of  the  stem,  its  fruit,  and  saccharine  juice, 
supply  the  dwellers  of  these  aerial  homes  with  food  and 
drink,  while  from  the  fibres  of  the  leaves  they  weave  for 
themselves  mats  and  hammocks.  "  It  is  curious  to  ob- 
serve," says  Humboldt,  "  in  the  lowest  degree  of  human 
civilization,  the  existence  of  a  whole  tribe  depending  on  one 
single  species  of  palm-tree,  similar  to  those  insects  which 
feed  on  one  and  the  same  flower,  or  on  one  and  the  same 
part  of  a  plant."  This  veritable  "Tree  of  Life,"  with 
its  large,  shining  leaves,  preserves  a  beautiful  verdure 
through  the  season  of  greatest  drought,  and  rises  above 
the  summer-parched  and  barren  soil  of  the  Llanos,  a 
guide  to  the  traveller  and  a  grateful  shelter  from  the 
heat  of  the  noonday  sun.  The  tree  thrives  only  in  moist 
ground,  and  at  its  base  may  generally  be  found  a  foun- 
tain of  refreshing  water;  or  such  can  be  obtained  by  a 
slight  excavation.  The  fact  that  this  palm-tree  is  always 
found  in  the  vicinity  of  water  has  given  rise  to  the  belief, 
among  the  natives,  that  the  tree  attracts  moisture  from 
the  earth ;  but  in  this,  as  well  as  in  many  other  cases, 
they  have  confounded  cause  and  eSect.  The  sweet  and 
grateful  juice  of  the  Moriche  palm,  either  fresh  or  ferment- 
ed ;  tlie  unexpanded  young  leaves,  or  what  is  called  cab- 
bag,e,  a  most  excellent  vegetable  ;  the  sago,  from  the  fari- 
naceous pith  of  the  trunk ;  the  fruit,  which,  like  the  plan- 
tain, can  be  eaten  raw  when  mature,  or  prepared  by  cook- 
ing in  an  almost  endless  variety  of  ways  ;  the  spathe  of 
the  fruit,  resembling  coarsely-woven  cloth,  and  useful  for 
bags,  mats,  and  the  scanty  apparel  sometimes  worn  by  tlie 
native,  the  value  of  the  leaves  for   thatching,  and  their 


'72      OVEE  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

fibres  for  cordage,  bowstrings,  fish-nets,  lines,  sails,  baskets, 
cloth,  and  liammocks — all  these  from  a  single  tree,  supply- 
ing the  people  in  abundance  with  all  the  necessaries  of 
existence,  is  only  another  instance  of  the  wonderful  pro- 
fuseness  and  adaptation  of  Nature,  in  this  rude  and  uncul- 
tivated land,  for  suppljdng  the  wants  of  its  inhabitants. 

But  of  the  many  and  varied  forms  of  vegetation  that 
shoot  up  in  such  rich  luxuriance  along  the  banks  of  the 
Pao,  and  adorn  the  forests  and  the  plains  of  this  humid 
clime,  forming  such  a  distinctive  feature  in  the  landscape, 
none,  perhaps,  impresses  the  traveller  from  northern  lati- 
tudes more  than  the  group  of  grasses.  Among  these  the 
gudua  or  bamboo  [Bamhusa  gudud)  is  by  far  the  most 
majestic  and  picturesque.  It  is  also  a  most  useful  plant 
to  the  natives,  furnishing  them  material  for  building, 
their  hollow  stems  serving  for  posts  and  rafters  ;  and,  when 
split  and  laid  open,  they  form  boards  for  enclosing  their 
huts;  and  their  joints,  which  are  filled  with  a  refreshing 
drink  for  the  thirsty  traveller,  answer  for  cups,  vessels, 
and  various  other  puri^oses.  This  arborescent  grass  loves 
a  humid  soil,  and  is  found  abundant  along  the  borders 
of  streams,  where  the  stems  shoot  up  in  thick  clumps  to  the 
height  of  forty  and  even  fifty  feet,  with  a  diameter  of 
from  four  to  six  inches.*  Masses  of  long,  slender  leaves 
crown  the  summit  of  these  pliant  trunks,  bending  them 
downward  by  their  weight  into  graceful  curves,  which,  by 
tlieir  union  over  streams  that  they  line,  form  long,  beauti- 
ful arcades  of  evergreen  verdure,  through  which  the  voya- 
ger floats  in  his  canoe,  his  pathway  gleaming  with  myri- 
ads of  insects,  that  rival  in  the  brilliancy  of  their  color- 
ing the  richest  gems.  "Their  slender  forms  are  suscepti- 
ble to  the  slightest  breeze,  and,  when  the  gale  of  the  hurri- 

*  Fletcher  makes  mention  of  this  giant  grass  being  found,  on  the 
Organ  Mountains  of  Brazil,  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height 
and  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 


A  NIGHT   ON  THE  BEACH.  73 

cane  comes,  these  groves  of  bamboo  exchange  an  aspect 
of  beauty  for  that  of  grandeur.  They  are  heaved  and 
tossed  like  the  billows  of  tlie  sea,  and  their  rich  foliage, 
driven  in  every  direction,  appears  like  surges  breaking  on 
the  rocks."  * 

We  can  convey  to  our  readers  but  a  faint  concep- 
tion of  the  richness  and  exuberance  of  the  vegetation 
which  forms  a  belt  of  varying  width  along  the  banks 
of  the  Llanos.  So  interested  had  we  been  in  the  coimt- 
less  objects  of  attraction  which  were  continually  coming 
before  us  as  we  moved  down  the  stream,  that  we  were 
scarcely  conscious  of  the  flight  of  time.  Tlie  sun  had  al- 
ready disapjjeared  behind  the  deep-green  wall  of  verdure 
before  we  hauled  up  our  canoe  upon  a  stony  beach  for  the 
night.  A  fire  was  soon  blazing  from  the  drift-wood  which 
lined  the  shore,  and  the  odor  of  stewing  beef  and  plan- 
tains foretold  the  evening  meal.  The  impenetrability  of 
the  matted  woods  obliged  us  to  sleep  upon  the  rocky 
bank  of  the  stream,  where  we  spread  our  blankets  as  far 
as  possible  from  the  water,  that  we  might  lessen  the 
chances  of  our  furnishing  a  banquet  to  the  various  cai- 
mans which  filled  the  river,  and  at  night  sought  the  shore. 
Truly  not  a  comforting  reflection  to  haunt  our  dreams, 
that  we  were  momentarily  liable  to  be  aroused  from  our 
slumbers  just  in  time  to  find  ourselves  within  the  capacious 
jaws  of  one  of  these  cannibalistic  monsters,  the  next  mo- 
ment to  be  crushed  out  of  existence.  The  scaly  saurians 
must  have  bent  their  steps  that  night  in  quest  of  other 
game,  for  were  mained  undisturbed  by  them,  but  fell  a 
prey  to  a  not  much  less  dreaded  enemy — sancudos — which 
swarmed  the  river-banks. 

Responding  to  the  call  of  our  patron  at  the  earliest 
dav/n,  we  reembarked.     So,  floating  down,  the  half-wake- 

*  "  Adventures  in  Soutii  and  Centi'il  Aiaei-Ica."     Paez, 
4 


74  OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS   TO   THE  LLANOS. 

fulness,  half-sleep  of  the  dusky  morning,  hushing  even  Vi- 
viano,  we  left  our  camp  beliind.  Now  and  then  we  would 
pass  beneath  rustling,  sighing  banana-groves,  which,  wav- 
ing like  great  fields  of  corn  at  evening,  brought  to  our 
half-sleeping  minds  blended  pictures  of  home  and  south- 
ern scenes.  To  one  who  has  never  seen  tropical  forests, 
no  word-painting  can  convey  any  idea  how  grand  and 
weird  and  graceful  they  are — they  stand  so  unutterably 
mysterious  and  dark,  as  if— a  race  chained  ages  ago  by 
a  conquering  will — they,  grown  old  and  hoary,  are  wait- 
ing a  release  to  being. 

By  the  time  that  we  were  fairly  awake,  we  reached  a 
spot  where  the  banks,  breaking,  extended  a  muddy  flat 
on  the  left  side.  Here  we  landed  for  breakfast,  and, 
while  this  was  preparing,  we  wandered  into  the  forest 
with  our  rifles,  proceeding  in  the  direction  whence  was 
heard  the  plaintive  cry  of  araguatoes,  apparently  near  at 
hand.  But  we  were  as  yet  imenlightened  as  to  how  de- 
ceiving is  the  distance  these  howling  monkeys  can  be 
heard,  and  so  were  enticed  farther  and  farther  into  the 
tangled  jungle.  At  length  we  came  to  the  object  of  our 
search — a  group  of  large  monkeys,  walking  leisurely 
along  the  branches  of  a  tree,  casting  down  suspicious 
glances  upon  the  intruders  on  their  realms.  Selecting  the 
finest-looking  fellow,  he  was  brought  wounded  to  the 
ground;  when  the  whole  band,  that  had  ceased  their 
noise  at  our  approach,  set  up  again  a  most  terrific  howl- 
ing. As  we  stood  a  little  exultant  over  the  bleeding  ani- 
mal, he  turned  up  his  large  eyes,  filled  with  tears,  and, 
casting  upon  us  a  look  that  we  shall  ever  remember,  ut- 
tered a  mournful  cry,  which  was  answered  by  the  wails  of 
his  companions  in  the  trees. 

The  araguatoes,  which  are  the  largest  monkeys  of  the 
New  World,  are  represented  by  several  species.  Accord- 
ing to  measurement,  we  found  one  of  these  animals  {JSIyce- 


^v|i|iriiiirii,M„i„i^ 


HOWLING  MONKEYS. 


15 


tes  ursmus)  four  feet  from  tip  to  tip,  or  about  three  feet 
when  in  an  erect  posture.  This  species  is  tlie  most  com- 
mon, has  thick  fur  of  a  reddish-brown  color,  and  a  long, 
prehensile  tail,  which  answers  as  a  third  hand.  The  feat- 
ures of  its  face  have  a  grave  and  melancholy  expression  ; 
its  beard  is  long,  and  its  movements  like  the  slow  and 
measured  gait  of  an  old  man.  It  generally  seems  perfect- 
ly indifferent  as  to  what  is  transpiring  about  it ;  but,  when 
aroused,  its  whole  aspect  changes,  and  it  Avill  perform  evo- 
lutions through  the  trees  with  surprising  agility.  As 
Humboldt  observes,  "  monkeys  are  melancholy  in  propor- 
tion as  they  have  more  resemblance  to  man.  Their 
sprightlincss  diminishes  as  their  intellectual  faculties  ap- 
pear to  increase."  In  disposition  the  araguato  is  mis- 
chievous and  savage,  and  Avill,  when  wounded,  attack 
man  in  a  most  ferocious  manner.  It  cannot  be  tamed, 
and  shows  none  of  that  affection  for  human  beino-s  which 
some  of  the  smaller  species  of  the  monkey-tribe  exhibit. 
It  is  gregarious  in  its  habits,  and  delights  in  the  solitary 
forest,  feeding  upon  nuts  and  fruits.  One  peculiarity 
that  distinguishes  the  howlers  from  other  members  of 
the  monkey  group  is,  the  remarkable  development  of  the 
larynx,  by  which  it  is  enabled  to  produce  those  tremen- 
dous noises-that  are  heard  at  so  great  a  distance.  When 
the  causes  were  favorable  for  the  propagation  of  sounds, 
we  heard  the  yelling  of  these  creatures  over  half  a  league. 
Frequently  during  the  darkness  of  the  night  they  break 
forth  with  their  terrible  howls,  such  as  deeply  imjoress  the 
traveller  who  hears  them  for  the  first  time,  and  "leads 
him  to  suppose,"  as  trutlifully  observes  Waterton,  "  that 
half  the  wild  beasts  of  the  forest  were  collecting  for  the 
work  of  carnage :  now  it  is  the  tremendous  roar  of  the 
jaguar,  as  he  springs  on  his  prey ;  now  it  changes  to  liis 
deep-toned  growlings,  as  he  is  pressed  on  all  sides  by  su- 


76  OVEE  TIJE   MOUNTAINS   TO   THE  LLANOS. 

perior  force ;  and  now  you  liear  his  last  dying  moan  be- 
neath a  mortal  wound." 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  animal  that  possesses  a  greater 
interest  than  the  monkey.  It  has  been  the  subject  of 
countless  nursery-tales,  and  a  fruitless  source  of  fiction, 
arising  from  that  inherent  propensity  so  characteristic  of 
human  nature  for  making  what  is  marvellous  appear  still 
more  so.  The  oft-repeated  story,  familiar  to  every  boy, 
and  which  finds  credence  among  so  many,  of  monkeys 
crossing  sti*eams  on  aerial  bridges,  constructed  from  their 
own  bodies,  exists  only  in  fancy.  Travellers  to  South 
America  have  often  referred  to  it  as  one  of  the  astonish- 
ing feats  of  these  animals.  In  the  course  of  our  travels 
in  the  tropics,  during  which  we  saw  multitudes  of  these 
creatures,  our  observations  convinced  us  that  there  was 
no  foundation  for  the  truth  of  the  tale  of  the  bridge-build- 
ing monkeys ;  and  in  this  belief  we  were,  moreover,  fur- 
ther confirmed  by  the  statement  of  the  natives,  who  tes- 
tified to  their  having  never  witnessed  such  a  novel  per- 
formance. Humboldt  also  says  that  five  years'  observa- 
tions of  these  animals  led  him  to  place  no  confidence  in 
the  statements  respecting  these  monkey-bridges. 

Returning  to  our  canoe  from  our  ramble  in  the  forest, 
we  found  in  waiting  a  smoking  breakfast  of  saficocho,  the 
national  dish  of  the  Venezuelian — a  concoction  of  beef, 
yuca,  bananas,  peppers,  garlics,  and  annatto  *  for  a  color- 
ing principle.  Our  energetic  Viviano  had  also  been  on  a 
foraging  expedition  with  Angel,  the  small  boy,  to  a  house 
upon  the  opposite  bank,  and  returned  with  plenty  of  milk, 

*  Annatto  is  the  product  of  a  shrub  {Bixa  ordlana)  ten  or  twelve 
feet  in  height,  with  a  foliage  resembling  our  common  lilac.  The  bu«h 
bears  a  prickly  bur,  like  the  chestnut,  only  smaller,  that  contains  the 
seeds  from  which  the  coloring  substance  is  obtained.  It  grows  wild 
throughout  Venezuela,  and  is  extensively  cultivated  in  Brazil,  constitut- 
ing  one  of  the  exports  from  that  country. 


DIFFICULT  NAVIGATION.  77 

enabling  ns  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  cafe,  con  lecJie.  "Wc 
were  amused  to  see  our  patron  pound  the  tough,  leathery, 
jerked  meat  between  two  stones ;  but  it  was  not  long  be- 
fore we  learned  to  follow  his  example,  and  even  then,  with 
our  full  quota  of  molars,  experienced  no  slight  difficulty, 
and  much  hard  work,  in  making  an  impression  on  the 
nearest  approach  to  leather  that  ever  went  by  the  honor- 
able name  of  meat. 

On  again,  all  the  morning,  till  toward  noon  the  banks 
began  to  sink,  and  finally  were  not  to  be  distinguished 
from  the  river,  save  by  the  lines  of  forest  that  marked 
tlieir  limits.  Then  we  knew  that  we  had  reached  the 
delta  country  of  El  Pao,  and,  coming  to  an  igarap'e^  or 
canoe-path,  we  turned  in  and  deserted  a  river  that  soon 
would  have  deserted  us.  But  our  igarape  soon  lost  all 
individuality,  and  we  floated  in  a  flooded,  tangled  forest, 
with  no  path  but  what  we  might  cut  ourselves.  The  dif- 
ficulty of  this  can  only  be  apparent  to  those  who  have 
undergone  a  like  experience.  Our  bongo,  long  beyond  all 
])roportion,  and  as  cranky  as  is  natural  to  a  log,  could 
make  no  short  turns,  and  continually  suggested  the  possi- 
bility of  our  becoming  food  for  the  caimans.  Then  the 
matted  and  snake-like  curtains  of  vines,  aerial  roots  and 
branches,  hard  as  southern  wood  only  can  be,  presented 
an  obstacle  almost  insurmountable,  had  it  continued  long. 
Often,  after  having  cut  a  way  in  one  direction,  we  would 
be  brought  to  a  stand-still  by  a  fallen  tree,  or  the  neces- 
sity of  a  short  turn,  and  be  obliged  to  back  out  and  try 
again.  Occasionally  Viviano  would  utter  a  low  hush,  and, 
gathering  himself  into  the  smallest  possible  compass,  push 
silently  back.  That  meant,  usually,  an  immense  nest 
of  bees,  or  perhaps  a  long,  green,  velvet  spotted  snake 
stretched  out  along  the  branches.  Sometimes  the  water 
would  be  shallow,  and  we  would  float  on  a  slimy  mass  of 
black  mud,  requiring  all  of  Viviano's  strength  and  skill  to 


78      OVEE  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LLANOS. 

continiTG  our  journey  and  keep  us  right  side  up.  On  one 
of  these  occasions,  wlien  the  mixture  was  a  little  denser 
than  usual,  Viviano,  bracing  his  palanca  against  a  tree, 
bent  all  his  might  to  cleave  the  flood,  but  unfortunately 
his  pole  slipped,  and,  his  very  form  aiding  the  catastrophe, 
by  holding  his  feet  firmly  in  the  boat,  he  disappeared  head- 
long into  the  chocolate-colored  paste.  Both  El  Patron 
and  Angel  screamed  out  simultaneously,  "  Look  out  for 
the  caiman  !  "  but  Viviano  needed  no  warning  to  hasten  his 
return  to  the  boat,  and  so  great  was  his  nervous  hurry 
that,  had  it  not  been  for  a  friendly  tree  to  steady  us,  we 
should  have  upset.  The  Avrath  in  the  face  of  our  mucha- 
cho  warned  us  not  to  laugh,  but  his  mud-lorn  features 
were  too  much  for  us  ;  and  we  were  forced  to  grin  audibly. 
As  a  consequence,  Viviano  was  grandly  silent  the  rest  of 
the  day.  Providentially  for  us,  the  forest  along  the  river- 
banks  never  extends  very  far  back  from  the  stream,  and 
late  in  the  afternoon  we  emerged  from  our  toiling  labyrinth 
into  the  wide  Llanos.  But  Llanos  no  longer — rather  a 
great  sea,  illimitable  in  extent,  but  very  limitable  in  depth  ; 
lacking  the  ceaseless  motion  of  the  ocean,  it  was  ten  times 
more  lonely  and  waste.  Silence  does  not  necessarily  en- 
hance loneliness.  The  forest  through  which  we  passed 
was  at  mid-day  as  silent  as  the  grave ;  the  few  birds  flitted 
abo\tt  noiselessly  without  a  note  of  song,  yet  the  forest 
even  then  w^as  as  a  company  of  friends,  compared  to  the 
loneliness  of  the  Llanos,  which,  however,  were  flooded 
with  a  multitude  of  noises.  Numberless  f/uacharacas, 
wdiose  name  itself  means  ever-moaning,  myriads  of  ducks, 
geese,  and  Avater-birds  of  every  kind,  filled  the  air  with 
strange  cries,  till  finally,  as  the  sun  went  down,  they  disap- 
peared and  left  lis  still.  For  a  short  distance  out  from  the 
forest  stood  isolated  trunks  of  trees,  which,  covered  deep 
under  luxuriant  masses  of  vines,  were  shaped  into  many 
graceful  and   often  grotesque  forms.     Sometimes  in  the 


LOST   IN   THE   FOKEST.  79 

rapidly-gathering  dusk  we  woiild  seem  to  see  a  tliatclied 
hut  rise  uj)  friendly  before  us,  but,  on  approaching  it, 
some  disturbed  bird  would  fly  out  with  a  scream  and  dis- 
pel the  illusion. 

For  some  time  before  Ave  reached  the  open  water,  we 
perceived  that  our  crew  were  in  doubt  as  to  the  direction, 
and  just  as  the  sun  went  down  we  were  brought  to  a 
stand-still  on  a  little  spot  of  land  rising  out  of  the  water, 
with  no  idea  where  to  turn.  El  Patron  and  Yiviano  left 
the  boat  to  have  a  reconnoitre  and  consultation,  while  we 
waited  for  them  in  a  dubious  frame  of  mind.  "Angel, 
we  are  lost,  are  we  not  ?  "  "  Yes,  sir."  A  pleasant  idea, 
that  of  spending  the  night  in  the  boat,  no  possibility  of 
lying  down,  the  air  full  of  the  deadliest  miasma,  while  the 
low  humming  song  from  millions  of  tiny  pipers,  gradually 
growing  louder  and  louder,  told  us  of  a  night  of  torture 
worse  than  the  mere  loss  of  sleep. 

But  our  journey  for  the  day  was  not  yet  at  an  end. 
As  we  sat  meditating  in  the  dark,  there  came  to  us  faintly 
a  roar  as  of  distant  water.  "  El  caiion,"  said  our  patron, 
and  we  immediately  started  in  the  direction  of  the  sound. 
Soon  we  entered  a  little  narrow  stream,  barely  wide 
enough  for  our  canoe,  but  running  with  considerable 
swiftness,  which  rajjidly  increased,  till  we  were  hurrying 
along  like  a  race-horse.  Viviano  stood  up  in  the  bow, 
using  his  palanca  like  a  madman,  now  on  one  side,  now 
on  the  other,  to  keep  us  free  from  the  banks,  but  suddenly 
his  pole  was  torn  from  his  grasp,  scraping  along  the  car- 
roza  to  the  imminent  danger  of  our  heads,  while  at  the 
same  moment,  the  river  making  a  quick  bend,  our  bongo 
far  too  long  to  turn,  stuck  fast  in  the  bend,  keeling  over  till 
the  water  rushed  in  at  the  lower  side.  Disembarking  with 
our  available  crew,  we  righted  our  craft  and  then  dug 
away  the  bank  till  there  was  room  enough  for  us  to  turn. 
Galloping  on,  the  stream   grew  wider,  and   the  current 


80  OVEE   THE  MOUNTAINS   TO   THE  LLANOS. 

suddenly  so  swift,  that  we  endeavored  to  fasten  to  tbc 
"bank,  but  it  was  too  late;  we  could  no  more  stop  our 
courser  than  the  stream  itself,  and  as  we  turned  a  bend 
"we  were  greeted  by  a  roar  that  sent  our  hearts  into  our 
mouths.  But  a  moment  longer,  and  we  Avere  swept  into 
a  seething,  boiling  raiidal*  nothing  visible  but  the  leap- 
ing, white  foam  on  which  our  log  was  tossed  like  a  feather. 
Yiviano  dropped  down  helpless  with  a  stifled  caramha, 
while  we  speculated  on  the  chances  of  the  rapid  ending 
in  a  fall.  El  Patron  clung  to  his  steering-oar  like  a  hero, 
and  kept  the  bongo  head  on,  which  was  our  only  chance. 
By  the  rocks  we  dashed  like  lightning,  for  what  seemed 
an  interminable  length  of  time.  But  the  caimans  were 
cheated  of  their  prey  for  once.  We  escaped  the  rocks, 
with  no  more  damage  than  a  large  amount  cf  water 
shipped,  and  floated  quietly  on  deep  water  once  again. 
Our  zest  for  adventure  for  that  day,  however,  Avas  gone, 
and  the  sooner  we  were  on  dry  land  again  the  better.  Our 
patron  now  know^ing  his  whereabouts,  we  travelled  on, 
sleepy  and  tired,  till  the  faint  glimmer  of  a  light  ahead  re- 
vived us,  and  soon  we  were  Avatching  our  supper  cooking 
OA^er  the  fire,  and  slinging  our  hammock  within  the  walls 
of  a  Llano  farm-house.  Great  slabs  of  leathery  meat  dis- 
a})peared  like  snow  in  summer,  Avashed  doAvn  by  nixmber- 
less  calabashes  of  cofiee  and  milk,  before  we  desisted,  and 
then  Ave  turned  into  our  hammocks,  while  El  Patron,  in  a 
low,  monotonous  tone  which  came  from  a  cloud  of  tobacco- 
smoke,  like  the  A'oice  of  some  ancient  bard,  sang  the  day's 
story,  till  the  song,  blended  vrith  a  hum  of  mosquito-music, 
turned  a  lullaby,  and  the  day  was  finished. 

*  A  rapid. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

BAUL    AND    SAN    FERNANDO. 

Over  the  Flooded  Llanos. — Abundance  of  Animated  Life. — On  tlie  Kio 
Trinaco. — A  Tropical  Shower. — Sickness. — Arrival  at  Baul. — One  of 
the  Party  Homeward  bound. — Sad  Eeflections. — Stay  at  Baul. — Down 
the  Portuguesa. — Arrival  at  San  Fernando. — The  Town. — Preparations 
for  continuing  our  Voyage. — A  Deliberate  Crew. 

The  sun  was  many  degrees  in  the  heavens  "when  a 
voice  summoned  us  from  blissful  slumber  to  partake  of 
the  good  fare  so  bountifully  provided  by  the  kind  people 
of  the  Llanos.  The  fragrant  cafe,  the  hot  com-cake,  came 
frita,  or  fried  beef,  with  the  oft-replenished  calabash  of 
delicious  milk,  vrere  luxuries  fully  appreciated.  Depart- 
ing from  our  hospitable  friends  and  their  island-like  home, 
lifted  above  the  spreading  waters,  we  jDushed  on  over  the 
inundated  country — through  tangled  forest,  thick  jungles, 
and  open  reaches,  the  abodes  of  millions  of  aquatic  birds, 
which  displayed  the  greatest  variety  of  species.  Great 
Avhite  herons,  some  as  tall  as  a  man,  were  perched  aloft 
on  the  leafless  branches  of  giant  trees,  standing  erect  in 
couples  upon  their  nest,  like  ghostly  sentinels,  guarding 
the  watery  realms.  Files  of  ducks  stood  stretched  along 
outspreading  boughs,*  and  thousands  more  rustling  up 

*  Many  species  of  ducks  on  the  Llanos,  contrary  to  the  habit  of  those 
birds  with  us,  the  wood-duck  {Anas  sponsa)  excepted,  perch  with  apparent 
ease  upon  trees,  which  we  have  often  seen  loaded  with  them. 


82  BAUL   AND   SAN  FERNANDO. 

from  the  turbid  element,  floated  in  clouds  over  our  heads. 
Guacharacas,  parrots,  paroquets,  and  guacamayas,  filled  the 
heavens  with  their  piercing  cries,  mingled  with  the  wild 
notes  of  countless  numbers  of  flamingoes  and  spoon-bills, 
while  bright-colored  birds  of  untold  species  winged  their 
way  over  the  waters.  Monstrous  caimans  floated  in  the 
slimy  floods,  groups  of  chattering  and  yelling  monkeys  gam- 
bolled through  the  forest,  and  iguanas,  alligators  in  minia- 
ture, lay  basking  upon  every  fallen  tnink,  and  darkened 
the  trees  with  their  ugly  forms,  occasionally  drojjping  from 
their  aerial  perches  into  the  water  with  a  startling  plunge. 
These  repulsive  saurians,  from  three  to  six  feet  in  length, 
answer  well  to  the  descri^^tion  given  by  one  who  probably 
was  not  particularly  charmed  with  their  beauty  of  form, 
as  being  "  very  ugly  snakes,  which  Natui-e,  after  forming 
the  head  and  tail,  had  neglected,  until  too  late,  to  roll 
into  shape,  giving  them  afterward  four  legs,  by  way  of 
compensation  for  her  oversight.  "  These  large  lizards  are 
of  a  variety  of  species  and  color,  with  a  comb-like  crest 
running  along  the  back,  which  the  animal  elevates  when 
frightened,  giving  it  a  most  hideous  aspect.  They  pass 
a  great  part  of  their  existence  in  trees,  and  may  be  seen 
clinging  to  the  branches  which  project  over  the  streams, 
into  which  they  let  themselves  drop,  upon  the  approach  of 
danger.  Their  flesh  is  esteemed  a  great  delicacy  and  is 
eagerly  sought  by  the  inhabitants. 

Finding  no  land  whereon  to  build  a  fire,  that  we  might 
cook  some  of  the  game  which  strewed  the  bottom  of  our 
canoe,  we  hauled  up  at  mid-day  beneath  the  shade  of  a 
tree,  and  relieved  our  hunger  with  cassava  and  guarepo,  a 
favorite  beverage  of  the  natives,  taken  both  hot  and  cold, 
made  by  dissolving  papelon  in  Avater.  Again  we  floated 
on,  the  banks  beginning  to  rise,  and  the  waters  to  collect 
themselves  in  a  single  channel,  until,  at  length,  they  were 
once  more  united  in  a  large  and  impetuous  stream,  which 


A  TKOPICAL  SnOWEK.  83 

carried  us  rapidly  down  its  course.  Large  patches  of 
grass,  sometimes  acres  in  extent,  torn  from  the  banks,  or 
brought  from  the  flooded  plains,  were  borne  along  like 
floating  meadows.  Our  bivouac  for  the  night  w^as  in  a  low, 
pestilential  jungle,  where  an  untimely  rain  cut  short  our 
evening  meal,  and  sancudos  disturbed  our  slumbers.  We 
quitted  the  inhospitable  place  at  early  light,  and  commit- 
ted ourselves  once  more  to  the  swift  current  of  the  Tri- 
naco,  as  the  lower  Pao  is  called.  The  scenery  was  less 
varied  than  upon  the  previous  days  of  our  voyage,  and  a 
stillness  pervaded  the  forest  that  now  fringed  the  banks, 
that  was  profound  as  compared  with  the  confused  din 
of  the  inundated  plain.  Here  and  there  a  hut  was  seen 
through  the  woods,  surrounded  with  plantains  and  yucas — 
feeble  exponents  of  civilization  in  this  strange  land. 

At  3  p.  M.  we  encountered  one  of  those  severe  storms 
which  the  traveller  so  often  experiences  in  the  tropics. 
The  heavens  opened,  and  the  floods  came  in  torrents  that 
threatened  shipwreck  to  our  frail  bark.  In  vain  we  en- 
deavored to  protect  ourselves  from  the  fury  of  the  storm. 
There  was  only  room  for  one  at  either  end  of  the  carroza ; 
and  here  two  forlorn  beings  might  have  been  seen,  with 
their  heads  stowed  away  among  the  kettles  and  provisions, 
and  with  their  legs  protruding,  as  convenient  conductors 
to  convey  the  water  which  the  projecting  members  might 
collect,  trickling  down  the  back  toward  the  head,  wdien- 
ever  the  canoe  gave  a  favorable  lurch ;  and,  at  an  adverse 
plunge  of  the  unstable  craft,  coursing  back  into  their  boots 
at  the  opposite  extremity.  The  strength  of  the  tempest 
was  at  length  exhausted,  wdien,  dripping  with  wet,  and 
shivering  from  cold,  we  drew  up  to  the  shore,  where  a 
small  hut  told  of  food  and  shelter.  Our  ever-loquacious 
Alvino,  revived  by  hot  cofiee  and  sandcoche  to  an  un- 
common flow  of  eloquence,  rehearsed  the  tale  of  our  jour- 
ney and  adventures,  drawing  forth  the  frequent  exclama- 


S4  BAUL  AND  SAN  FERNANDO. 

tion  '■'■  Caramha  ! ''''  from  his  admiring  listeners.  IJeclining 
in  our  hammocks,  closely  wrapped  in  our  blankets  as  a 
protection  against  sancudos,  we  dropped  into  sweet  ob- 
livion, with  the  tongue  of  Alvino  still  "  flowing  rapidly.  " 
How  long  it  may  have  continued  we  cannot  say. 

From  the  time  of  leaving  Pao,  one  of  the  party,  Mr. 
Gilbert,  had  shown  symptoms  of  the  dreaded  calenture 
which  is  so  prevalent  at  this  season,  upon  these  submerged 
and  malarious  regions.  We  at  first  supposed  it  only  a 
slight  attack,  which  need  occasion  no  apprehension,  but 
the  discomforts  and  exposures  of  the  voyage  caused  the 
fever  to  assume  a  more  malignant  form.  We  were  in  no 
condition  to  do  much  for  our  companion,  and  could  only 
hasten  forward  to  Baul,  where  was  j^romise  of  medical 
attention  and  better  accommodations.  On  the  afternoon 
of  the  following  day,  the  sixth  from  our  embarkation  at 
Pao,  we  reached  Baul.  In  a  fcAV  days  Mr.  Gilbert  became 
convalescent;  but  it  was,  however,  too  evident  tliat  the 
fever  still  lurked  in  a  latent  state,  and  only  waited  for 
favorable  circumstances  to  again  develop  itself.  For 
him  to  remain  longer  upon  these  pestilential  plains,  could 
not  be  done  with  impunity,  and  a  return  to  the  north 
seemed  imperatively  demanded.  It  was  with  feelings 
of  regret  that  we  contemplated  separating  from  a  mem- 
ber of  our  small  party,  just  as  we  were  starting  upon 
our  long,  overland  journey.  But  there  seemed  no  alterna- 
tive, and  accordingly  preparations  were  made  by  Avhich 
he  accompanied  our  boatmen  back  to  Pao ;  from  there  he 
made  his  way  across  the  Cordilleras  to  Puerto  Cabello, 
whence  he  sailed  for  home. 

Two  days  after  this  event,  the  time  fixed  for  our  depart- 
ure from  Baul,  the  calenture  again  invaded  the  party  and 
prostrated  my  only  remaining  companion.  For  three 
days  we  watched,  with  no  little  anxiety,  the  j^i'ogress  of 
the  fever,  as  it  continued  to  increase  in  severity.     These 


BAUL.  85 

were,  indeed,  dark  days  to  us.  We  recalled  the  admoni- 
tion so  frequently  given  us  not  to  venture  upon  the  mias- 
matic rivers,  and  lowlands  of  the  interior,  especially  at 
this  season.  We  were  even  now  persistently  urged  to 
turn  back.  But  a  brighter  day  soon  dawned,  and  hope 
began  to  take  the  place  of  momentary  despair.  The  fever 
having  spent  its  strength,  the  patient  rapidly  recovered  ; 
and  we  again  sought  opportunity  to  resume  our  journey. 
We  may  here  state  that,  notwithstanding  predictions, 
which  were  far  from_  being  comforting  to  us,  this  was  our 
only  detention  from  sickness  during  our  four  months' 
voyage  upon  the  rivers  of  the  interior,  although  we  were 
continually  meeting  with  natives,  oftentimes  entire  fami- 
lies, who  were  sufferers  from  the  intermittent  fever  of  the 
country. 

Our  delay  of  two  weeks  at  Baul  gave  us  an  opportuni- 
ty to  become  acquainted  with  the  place  and  its  environs. 
There  was,  however,  not  mucli  that  had  special  interest 
either  to  the  naturalist  or  casual  visitor.  Baul  stands  at 
the  junction  of  the  Trinaco  and  Cojede  Rivers,  stretching 
mostly  along  the  latter,  between  its  right  bank  and  the 
hills  which  rise  directly  back  of  the  town  upon  the  south. 
These  isolated  hills  were  the  last  elevations  we  saw,  until 
reaching  the  Orinoco.  The  town  claims  ten  thousand  in- 
habitants, but  probably  has  less  than  two-thirds  that  es- 
timate. The  botany  of  this  region  is  not  extensive,  and 
the  zoology  still  less  varied,  but  it  has  some  fine  repre- 
sentative species  ;  tigers,  pumas,  deer,  and  several  species 
of  monkeys,  abound  upon  the  savannas  and  in  the  forest 
tracts.  Morning  and  evening  we  heard  from  the  corridor 
of  our  posada  the  howls  of  the  araguato ;  while  deer 
would  frequently  be  seen  taking  their  lookout  from  the 
brow  of  the  hills  in  rear  of  the  town. 

Our  protracted  stay  at  Baul  was  at  length  terminated. 
Tlirough  the  assistance  of  Dr.  E.  Landaeta,  a  gentleman 


86  BAUL  AND  SAN  FEKXANDO. 

who  had  been  a  warm  friend  to  us  through  all  our  sick- 
ness, we  procured  passage  to  San  Fernando  de  Apure  in  a 
bongo  which  was  bound  tliithcr  Avith  a  cargo  of  maize  and 
fruits.  The  14tli  of  October  liad  been  agreed  upon  for 
our  departure;  but,  as  it  was  late  in  the  day  before  the 
captain,  or  patron,  could  complete  preparations,  it  was 
determined  by  him  to  defer  sailing  until  the  second  day 
following,  although  ready  to  go  upon  the  moi'row,  but 
that  was  Tuesday,  the  "  unlucky  day "  of  the  Spaniard. 
The  matter  was,  however,  finally  readjusted:  we  were  to 
go  that  day  a  short  distance  down  the  river,  when  we 
would  draw  up  for  the  night,  thus  commencing  our  jour- 
ney ;  then  the  following  morning  we  could  proceed,  with- 
out being  subject  to  the  evils  which  would  befall  us  for 
starting  upon  such  an  unpropitious  day  as  Tuesday.  Our 
feelings  of  pleasure,  in  being  able  to  resume  our  journey, 
were  mingled  with  those  of  regret  at  parting  from  friends 
who  had  been  so  attentive  to  our  wants,  and  who,  upon 
our  departure,  gave  us  kind  tokens  of  remembrance, 
and  comforts  for  our  voyage.  We  could  see  the  tears 
glisten  in  the  eyes  of  the  good  old  lady,  our  hostess,  as 
she  gave  the  farcAvell  shake  of  the  hand,  saying, "  Cuiclado 
que  los  sancudos  ne  se  le  coma  "  (take  care  that  the  sancu- 
dos  do  not  eat  you  up).  How  much  there  was  to  heed  in 
this  injunction  will  appear  hereafter. 

Our  resting-place  for  the  night  was,  as  we  have  inti- 
mated, but  a  short  distance  below  the  town,  where  we 
were  tendered  the  hospitalities  of  a  hut  in  the  midst  of  a 
banana-grove ;  some  swinging  their  hammocks  inside  the 
dwelling,  others  under  the  trees,  both  places  alike  so  in- 
fested with  sancudos  that  self-preservation  v/as  our  only 
thought.*    "SVere  we  so  soon  to  realize  the  import  of  the  last 

*  There  are  several  species  of  culices,  or  sancudos,  in  South  America ; 
the  one  most  common  on  the  Portuguesa  and  Apure  being  of  a  blue  color, 
with  a  bite  more  irritating  than  that  of  our  northern  mosquito. 


DOWN  THE  PO.KTUGUESA.  87 

words  from  our  hostess  at  Banl  ?  Was  this  the  region  of 
insect  torments  of  which  we  had  so  often  heard  ?  Poor  in- 
nocents, we  little  knew  the  caj)abilities  of  Venezuela,  or 
dread  would  have  possessed  our  souls.  This  was  but  a 
paradise  to  where  our  journeyings  were  yet  to  lead  us. 
Vie  battled  with  sancudos  until  the  hour  of  midnight, 
when  the  moon,  appearing  above  the  forest  level,  sug- 
gested the  practicability  of  navigating  by  its  light ;  and,  as 
any  thing  was  preferable  to  remaining  in  such  an  infested 
place,  we  reembarked,  and,  pushing  out  into  the  middle  of 
the  stream,  floated  slowly  down  the  dark  waters,  the  dull 
thud  of  our  heavy  oars  alone  breaking  the  silence,  so  pro- 
foimd  as  to  be  almost  painful.  We  were  now  less  annoyed 
by  insects,  the  few  there  were  being  swept  astern  by  the 
gentle  breeze  produced  by  the  motion  of  the  boat. 

Our  four  days'  journey  down  the  Portuguesa,  from  Baul 
to  San  Fernando,  was  not  a  very  stirrmg  or  eventful  one. 
The  scenery  was  the  most  monotonous  we  had  witnessed, 
not  even  a  hill,  or  the  slightest  elevation,  rising  upon  the 
view  for  a  relief;  but  we  were  shut  in  by  forests  that 
lined  the  shores,  with  no  escape  for  the  eye  except  as  it 
gazed  heavenward,  toward  a  dazzling,  burning  sun.  Ow- 
ing to  the  sancudos  Avhich  so  densely  populated  the  river- 
banks,  ovir  voyage  was  interrupted  at  night  only  by  a 
short  rest,  we  leaving  our  bivouac  as  soon  as  the  moon 
arose,  and  dispelled  the  darkness  that  settled  in  the  forest 
channel.  Rains  were  frequent ;  and  when  they  came  we 
sometimes  sought  the  shelter  of  our  carroza,  which,  in 
this  bongo,  was  sufficiently  high  to  admit  of  a  sitting  pos- 
ture; but,  as  it  was  a  perfect  paradise  for  sancudos, 
besides  being  as  hot  as  an  oven,  we  often  preferred  a  wet- 
ting to  remaining  in  such  a  place  of  torture. 

At  noon  of  our  third  day  from  Baul,  we  came  to  the 
small  town  of  San  Jaime  upon  the  right  bank,  and  by 
dark  we  arrived  at  Camaguan,  a  town  upon  the  left  bank 


88  BAUL  AND  SAN  FEPwNANDO. 

of  the  Portuguesa,  of  some  three  or  four  tliousand  in- 
habitants, the  most  considerable  place  iijDon  the  river 
between  Baul  and  San  Fernando.  In  the  morning,  having 
discharged  a  portion  of  the  cargo  from  the  bongo,  we  de- 
parted. There  was  the  same  monotonous  aspect  of  the 
scenery  as  had  characterized  the  landscape  from  Baul; 
the  banks,  nowhere  of  any  considerable  elevation  above 
the  river,  were  generally  covered  with  forest  varying  in 
width  from  a  hundred  yards  to  upward  of  a  mile,  with 
the  plain  beyond,  an  open  savanna,  submerged  by  the 
water.  The  Portuguesa  is  quite  a  formidable  river,  and 
of  sufficient  depth  to  float  the  largest  vessels  up  to  Baul. 
Since  our  return  from  Venezuela,  we  have  been  gratified 
to  know  that  there  has  been  established,  by  an  American 
company,  a  line  of  steamers  which  pass  uj)  the  Orinoco 
and  Apure  to  San  Fernando,  thus  opening  up  a  vast  and 
important  region  to  the  commerce  of  the  world.  A  simi- 
lar line  was  in  operation  some  years  ago,  but  political 
dissensions  occasioned  its  discontinuance.  We  hope  for 
better  success  to  the  new  enterj^rise.* 

The  morning  of  the  fifth  day  of  our  voyage  from  Baul 
had  not  fully  dawned,  when  our  canoe,  gliding  into  the 
waters  of  the  Apure,  brought  us  soon  in  sight  of  San  Fer- 
nando. Having  had  our  imaginations  highly  wrought  by 
exaggerated  reports — a  prevailing  weakness  characteristic 
of  this  people — it  was  a  feeling  of  disappointment  that 
accompanied  our  first  view  of  the  narrow  town  with  its 
long  row  of  low,  white  buildings,  stretched  along  the 
scarcely-elevated  margin  of  the  river,  and  backed  by  a 
monotonous  forest.     What  most  attracted  our  attention 

*  Since  writing  the  above,  we  learn  that  steamers  have  ceased  rxin- 
ning  up  the  Apure,  going  only  as  far  as  Ciudad  Bolivar,  or  Angostura, 
as  more  commonly  called  by  Yenezuelians,  a  town  about  three  hundred 
miles  up  the  Orinoco. 


SAN  FEKNANDO.  89 

was  a  small  steamer,  that  had  come  i;p  from  Angostura, 
■with  a  party  of  Venezuelian  officials,  and  was  lying  at 
anchor  in  the  river.  A  shrill  whistle  from  the  craft  as  we 
approached,  breaking  the  stillness  of  the  morning,  as  it 
resounded  through  the  half-wakeful  town  and  the  deep 
forest,  was  a  strange  sound  to  hear  in  these  wild  regions 
of  the  Llanos.  The  position  of  San  Fernando,  at  the 
junction  of  two  great  rivers,  whose  tributaries,  taking 
their  rise  in  the  littoi'al  chain  wpon  the  north,  and  among 
the  snowy  peaks  of  Colombia  upon  the  west,  traverse  so 
large  a  territory,  and  its  easy  communication  Avith  the 
coast  by  a  water-course  that  is  navigable  for  the  largest 
vessels,  aflbrd  to  the  town  imusual  commercial  facilities. 

San  Fernando,  far  removed  from  the  centre  of  volcanic 
action,  has  rested  secure  from  the  devastating  shock  of 
convulsive  ISTature,  but  has  witnessed  other  scenes  scarcely 
less  dreadful  than  those  of  the  earthquake.  During  the 
season  of  1855-56  it  was  visited  by  that  terrible  scourge, 
cholera,  which,  confining  its  ravages  almost  exclusivel}^  to 
those  whose  mode  of  life  and  sanitary  habits  are  so  con- 
ducive to  contagious  diseases  everywhere,  swept  off  nearly 
all  the  lower  and  laboring  portion  of  the  inhabitants. 
Buildings  stood  partially  erected ;  the  forge  was  aban- 
doned ;  shops  were  closed ;  and  work  of  all  kind  ceased 
on  account  of  an  unanswered  call  for  labor.  Sewinsr- 
machines  were  introduced,  and  even  then  it  was  with  the 
greatest  difficulty  that  the  people  could  be  su2)plied  with 
clothing.  Although  more  than  a  decade  of  years  has 
since  j^assed,  still  the  equilibrium  of  the  labor  and  capital 
elements  has  not  yet  been  restored.  The  population  is, 
however,  slowly  increasing,  and  at  present  is  estimated 
at  about  four  thousand.  In  1859,  during  one  of  the  politi- 
cal convulsions  we  have  so  often  had  occasion  to  refer  to, 
the  town  agam  suflered  a  serious  calamity,  in  being  sacked 
and  one-half  of  it  being  destroyed  by  fire.     It  has  again 


90  BAUL   AND   SAN  FERNANDO. 

been  rebuilt  in  a  more  substantial  niannei-.  The  introduc- 
tion of  brick  a  few  years  since,  for  architectural  purposes, 
is  one  stride  forward  in  Venezuelian  reform — the  clay  of 
the  Llanos  furnishing  the  requisite  material  for  their 
manufacture. 

During  the  season  of  greatest  floods,  the  country 
around  San  Fernando  is  submerged,  thus  islanding  the 
town,  when  the  canoe  is  the  only  means  of  maintaining 
communication  with  other  places.  The  heat  throughout 
the  year  is  excessive,  attaining  its  maximum  in  July  and 
August,  the  months  of  heaviest  rains,  when  it  reaches  a 
height  of  about  100°  in  the  shade.  In  the  dry  season  the 
temperature  is  about  ten  degrees  lower.  In  October,  the 
time  of  our  visit  at  San  Fernando,  the  rainy  period  of 
the  year  was  rapidly  closing  ;  but  the  Llanos  were,  for  the 
most  part,  still  inundated.  The  svibsiding  of  tlie  waters 
marks  the  time  when  intermittent  fevers  rage  the  worst, 
and  insects  swarm  the  thickest.  The  fearful  accounts  we 
had  received  of  sancudos  upon  the  Apure,  and  our  own 
experience  with  them  upon  the  Portuguesa,  led  us  to  pro- 
cure netting  of  fine  cloth,  which  we  made  into  mosquiteros 
of  such  form  and  dimensions  that  they  would  cover  our 
hammocks  entire  when  suspended.  Beneath  this  protec- 
tion, we  could  lie  secure,  and  smile  at  sancudos  as  they 
hovered  in  clouds  without. 

Through  our  letter  of  introduction,  we  made  the  ac- 
quaintance of  Seuor  L.  Diaz,  an  intelligent  and  gentle- 
manly physician,  highly  esteemed  in  San  Fernando,  who 
cordially  invited  us  to  partake  of  the  hospitalities  of  his 
house.  The  doctor  was  a  great  lover  of  pets,  and  lived 
surrounded  by  a  perfect  menagerie  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  savannas  and  forest.  Birds,  large  and  small,  of  singu- 
lar species  and  beautiful  plumage,  filled  his  house  and 
court-yard ;  among  them  a  great  noisy  guacamaya,  which 
had  the  run  of  the  premises,  and  was  as  loquacious  and  as 


PKEPAEATIONS   TO   EESUME   OUK   JOUENEY.  91 

great  a  gormandizer  as  Viviano,  our  Pao  boatman  ;  for  he 
was,  seemingly,  never  happy  unless  calling  for  "  El  doc- 
tor," who  would  comply  with  his  peremptory  demands 
for  bread,  fruits,  and  the  long  list  of  edibles,  which  he 
would  roll  off  in  Spanish,  like  some  old  veteran  in  the  lan- 
guage. Among  his  larger  fondlings  was  a  young  jaguar, 
or  tiger,  which,  although  quite  large,  evinced  none  of  the 
unpleasant  traits  ascribed  to  that  species.  This  animal  the 
doctor  desii-ed  us  to  accept  and  take  to  our  country ;  but 
lack  of  transportation  privileges,  with  the  thought  of  a 
jaguar  in  the  same  bongo  with  ourselves,  for  a  voyage  of 
two  thousand  miles,  led  us  reluctantly  to  decline  the  prof- 
fered gift.  What  contributed  still  more  to  the  pleasure 
of  our  visit  in  San  Fernando,  was  our  further  acquaintance 
with  General  E.  Este,  who  was  unremitting  in  his  atten- 
tions, and  who  could,  withal,  converse  in  our  native  tongue, 
a  treat  we  always  richly  enjoyed,  and  which  was  not  again 
afforded  us  until  we  reached  the  Amazons. 

Three  days  had  been  spent  at  San  Fernando,  when,  an 
opportunity  presenting  itself  whereby  we  could  proceed  on 
our  journey  to  the  Orinoco,  we  determined  to  embrace  it. 
Two  large  bongos,,  freighted  with  maize,  papelon,  and 
aguardiente,  and  accompanied  by  a  small  canoe,  were  on 
their  return  down  the  Apure,  and  were  ready  to  start 
within  two  hours  from  the  time  we  first  received  intima- 
tion of  their  intended  departure.  As  the  large  boats  were 
heavily  loaded,  the  little  craft  was  to  convey  us  to  Asaiba, 
a  hacienda  upon  Rio  Clarito,  where  we  could  exchange  for 
one  of  the  bongos,  which,  with  a  reduced  cargo,  from  that 
place  was  destined  for  Urbana  on  the  Orinoco.  Having 
been  promised  letters  of  recommendation  from  the  presi- 
dent of  the  province  of  Apure,  we  sought  the  chief  execu- 
tive at  his  private  residence.  Reaching  the  house  designa- 
ted to  us,  rather  an  inferior  one  even  for  San  Fernando, 
we  passed  through  the  open  arcade,  and,  crossing  the  court- 


92  BAUL  AND   SAN  FERNANDO. 

yard,  came  to  a  low,  dirty  room,  black  with  soot  and  blind- 
ing with  smoke,  where  we  beheld  a  lai-ge,  swarthy  negro, 
with  coat  off  and  sleeves  rolled  up,  engaged  in  the  culi- 
nary operations  of  the  kitchen.  To  this  gentleman  we 
were  introduced  as  the  official  in  qiiestion.  He  proved 
eminently  successful  in  inditing  a  grandiloquent  recom- 
mendation. 

Having  hastily  secured  our  supplies  for  the  voyage,  we 
were  at  the  landing  by  5  p.  m.,  the  hour  designated  for 
starting,  and  found  the  two  bongos  just  pushing  off;  but 
our  own  crew  were  nowhere  to  be  found.  Waiting  until 
dark,  without  any  signs  of  their  appearing,  vre  started 
upon  a  hunt  for  them  through  the  town,  returning,  after 
an  liour  or  more  of  fruitless  search,  to  find  one  of  the 
rascals,  the  best  part  of  whom  was  Indian,  sitting  with 
great  complacency  upon  his  haunches,  on  the  beach, 
smoking  his  evening  regalia.  In  course  of  another  hour 
the  patron,  a  great  shambling  son  of  Afric,  made  his  ap- 
pearance, and,  doubling  his  lower  extremities  under  him, 
also  squatted  very  coolly  upon  the  ground  to  discuss  "  the 
situation."  We  brought  the  conference  to  a  hasty  close^ 
when  they  vei-y  deliberately  collected  the  provisions, 
kettles,  and  luggage,  into  the  canoe,  and  stationing  them- 
selves, one  in  the  stern  to  steer,  and  the  other  at  the  bow 
to  paddle,  we  were  finally  moving  along,  more  by  the  force 
of  the  current  than  by  any  exertions  of  our  boatmen. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

AFLOAT  UPOX  THE  LLANOS. 

Aspect  of  tae  Inundated  Plains. — Wild  Horses  and  Cattle. — Crocodiles. — 
Anacondas. — Electric  Eels. — Cannibal-Fish. — Experiences  upon  the 
Payara. — Myriads  of  Aquatic  Birds. — A  Breakfast  and  Cock-light. — 
Manati,  or  "Sea-cow." — Upon  the  Arauca.— Over  Flooded  Savan- 
nas.— At  Asaiba. — Niguas. — Jaguar. — Abnormal  Butchering. — Em- 
barked for  the  Orinoco. — Navigating  Submerged  Forest. — Lost  upon 
'the  Llauos. — An  Uncomfortable  Night. — Arrival  upon  the  Orinoco. 

Our  first  experiences  upon  tlie  Apuro  were  terminated 
at  a  late  hour,  by  our  hauling  up  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  a  sugar-mill  in  operation,  v,'here  all  night  long  the 
tramp  of  animals,  as  they  turned  the  rude  grinding-ma- 
chine,  kept  time  to  the  hum  of  sancudos  that  filled  the  air. 
The  next  morning,  early,  we  recommenced  our  voyage. 
The  banks  became  lower  as  we  proceeded,  until  they  final- 
ly sank  beneath  the  floods,  when  we  pushed  out  of  the 
river-channel  over  the  inundated  savannas.  During  the 
season  of  rains,  the  Apure,  Arauca,  Conaviche,  and  Ca- 
panaparo  Rivers,  with  their  labyrinth  of  branches,  by  their 
overflow  submerge  a  vast  territory,  which  presents  the  as- 
pect of  an  inland  sea.  The  hamlets  and  huts  which  are 
scattered  here  and  there  over  the  savannas  scarcely  rise 
above  the  surfiice  of  the  water.  Crocodiles  and  anacon- 
das, with  other  reptilian  monsters,  which  lie  buried  in  the 
dry  mud  of  the  Llanos   during  the  months  of  drought. 


94  AFLOAT  UPON  THE  LLANOS. 

now  hold  bigli  carnival  in  their  flooded  realms.  The  wild 
horses  and  cattle,  which  feed  in  such  immense  numbers 
upon  the  plains,  seek  the  mountains  and  elevated  lands 
until  the  waters  subside,  and  the  rencAved  verdure  of 
spring  invites  them  again  to  their  favorite  haunts.  Thou- 
sands are  oftentimes  overtaken  by  the  periodical  deluge, 
and  perish  by  drowning,  or  fall  prey  to  crocodiles,  water- 
serpents,  and  other  inhabitants  of  the  element. 

When  we  reflect  upon  the  many  influences  that  are 
continually  at  work  for  the  diminution  of  these  animals,  it 
is  not  a  little  surprising  that  they  should  maintain  their 
races  against  the  great  devastation  which  would  seem  to 
threaten  almost  their  annihilation.  Those  that  escape  the 
perils  of  the  water  are  continuallj^  in  danger  from  the 
wild  beasts  which  are  crowded  with  them  vipon  the  up- 
lands of  the  savannas.  Pestilential  diseases  often  sweep 
them  away  by  thousands,  while  man  is  ever  waging 
against  them  a  war  of  destruction.  Xor  are  they  free 
from  annoying  insects,  which  torment  them  by  day  and 
night,  and  bats  that  drain  their  blood,  while  lulling  them 
with  the  breath  of  their  noiseless  wings,  leaving  wounds 
that  become  dreadful  by  reason  of  poisonous  flies  which 
infest  them.  The  wild  cattle  are  far  more  numerous  than 
the  horses,  and  are  mostly  owned  by  herdsmen,  whose 
mark  they  bear.  At  certain  seasons  a  grand  hunt  is  or- 
ganized, the  cattle  are  gathered,  and  all  unmarked  ones 
branded,  when  those  not  wanted  are  released  to  again 
roam  at  freedom  upon  the  savannas.  The  Uanero  is  as 
little  able  to  tell  tlie  number  of  his  cattle,  as  he  is  to 
bound  the  limits  of  his  vast  possessions.  Humboldt  esti- 
mated that  1,200,000  cattle  and  180,000  horses  graze 
upon  the  plains  of  Venezuela  ;  while  there  exist  upon  the 
Pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres  12,000,000  cattle  and  3,000,000 
horses. 

There  are  several  species  of  scaly  saurians,  to  v/hicli  wo 


CKOCODILES.  95 

have  alluded,  that  inhabit  the  waters  of  the  Llanos.  The 
largest  is  the  true  crocodile,  like  those  of  the  Nile  and 
Ganges.  It  differs  from  the  alligator,  also  common  here, 
and  which  resembles  the  species  of  that  name  found  in 
our  Southern  States,  in  having  a  longer  and  narrower  head, 
as  well  as  in  dentition.  The  alligator  and  crocodile,  espe- 
cially the  latter,  are  the  most  crafty  and  dangerous  pests  of 
all  the  lagoons  and  rivers  of  the  Llanos.  Both  species  are 
known  to  the  natives  by  tlie  name  of  caiman.  They  are 
oviparous  animals,  laying  eggs,  small  in  proportion  to 
their  size,  with  a  hard,  rough  shelh  Their  laterally  com- 
pressed tail  is  the  great  instrument  of  progression  when 
in  water,  and  possesses  such  strength  that  a  crocodile  can 
easily  overthrow  with  it  the  canoe  of  the  Indians,  when 
the  hapless  voyagers  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  voracious 
monster.  The  wearied  traveller,  sleeping  at  night  upon 
the  bank  of  the  stream,  is  liable  to  a  stroke  from  this  pow- 
erful appendage,  which  will  send  him  reeling  into  the 
water — and  into  the  jaws  of  waiting  crocodiles.  They 
seem  to  have  an  antipathy  to  attacking  any  thing  upon 
land,  but  in  the  water  they  are  masters  of  the  situation. 
They  delight  in  basking  upon  the  shelving  bank  of  the 
stream,  where  they  lie  with  gaping  jaws,  and  motionless 
as  a  log,  as  disgusting  and  horrible  looking  objects  as 
can  well  be  imagined.  Like  the  colossal  anaconda,  and 
most  of  the' serpent-tribe  of  tlie  Llanos,  the  caiman  buries 
itself  in  the  mud,  when  the  falling  waters  leave  bare  the 
savannas,  and  spends  the  long,  dry  season  in  a  state  of 
hibernal  lethargy.  LTpon  the  return  of  rains,  the  mois- 
tened soil  gives  up  its  living  dead,  and  the  plains  again 
swarm  with  reptilian  life.  The  Llanero  hut,  which  has  been 
deserted  by  its  occupants  during  the  months  of  inunda- 
tion, is  sometimes  said  to  become  the  hibernal  quarters 
of  these  inhabitants  of  the  deluge,  which,  bursting  their 
2)rison  v^'alls  with  tlie  vivifying  showers  of  spring,  come 


96  •  AFLOAT  UPON  THE  LLAXOS. 

forth  to  tlie  astonishment  and  horror  of  the  inmates  of 
the  dwelling.  In  the  equinoctial  zone  it  is  the  increase  of 
humidity  that  recalls  these  animals  to  life,  while,  in  tem- 
perate latitudes,  it  is  the  increase  of  heat  that  rouses  them 
from  their  lethargy.  "  It  is  a  curious  physiological  phe- 
nomenon, "  remarks  Himiboldt,  in  his  "  Travels,"  "  to  ob- 
serve the  alligators  of  Xorth  America  jDlunged  into  a  winter- 
sleep  by  excess  of  cold,  at  the  same  period  when  the  croco- 
diles of  the  Llanos  begin  their  siesta  or  summer-sleep. 
If  it  were  probable  that  these  animals  of  the  same  family 
had  heretofore  inhabited  the  same  northern  country,  we 
might  suppose  that,  in  advancing  toward  the  equator, 
they  feel  the  want  of  repose  after  having  exercised  their 
muscles  for  seven  or  eight  months,  and  that  they  retain 
under  a  new  sky  the  habits  which  appear  to  be  essentially 
linked  with  their  organization.  " 

We  have  referred  to  the  ophidian  moustei's  which 
tenant  these  submerged  regions,  and  are  such  a  terror  to 
tlie  animal  kingdom  over  which  they  hold  universal  sway ; 
even  the  large  and  fierce  jaguar  yielding  superiority  to 
these  reptilian  monsters.  The  species  most  common  upon 
the  Llanos  of  Venezuela  is  the  anaconda  {Ennectes  tnvri- 
mts),  called  by  the  natives  culehra  de  agua,  a  larger  and 
more  voracious  serpent  than  the  boa-constrictor,  and  less 
terrestrial  in  its  habits.  The  anaconda  is  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  in  length,  and  instances  are  not  uncommon  of 
its  attaining  the  enormous  length  of  forty  feet.  Its  capa- 
bility of  swallowing  prey  so  many  times  its  own  bulk  is 
truly  astonishing;  not  even  the  pride  of  the  herd,  the  llano 
bull,  says  Paez,  escaping  its  deadly  embrace.  It  does  not 
attempt  to  swallow  the  honis  of  stags,  but,  as  is  asserted 
by  the  writer  above  quoted,  these  indigestible  append- 
ages are  left  protruding  from  its  mouth,  until  time  removes 
them  by  the  natural  process  of  decay.  The  anaconda  is 
able  to  survive  a  long  period  without  food,  even  when  not 


ELECTEIC   EELS.  97 

gorged ;  and  vre  bare  seen  them  decline  a  live  creature, 
introduced  into  their  cage,  when  they  had  been  confined 
for  months  -^-ithout  any  thing  to  sustain  life.  The  skin  is 
converted  into  leather  for  straps,  which  are  remarkable  for 
their  toughness  and  durability.  This,  together  with  the 
thick  hide  of  the  caiman,  which  makes  excellent  saddles, 
furnishes  the  native  with  .his  outfit  for  travel  and  the  chase. 
The  caiman  and  serpents  are  not  the  only  terrors  of 
these  Stygian  floods.  The  lagoons  and  marshy  waters  are 
inhabited  by  innumerable  gymnoti,  or  electric  eels,  which 
are  able  to  communicate  an  electrical  shock  sufliciently 
strong  to  overpower  a  man,  and  paralyze  for  hours  the 
limb  that  comes  in  immediate  contact.  In  experimenting 
with  some  of  these  "  animal  electrical  machines, "  which 
had  been  secured  by  the  Indians,  we  received  discharges 
that  caused,  for  some  time  afterward,  a  most  painful  sen- 
sation in  the  member  with  which  we  grasped  them.  Hum- 
boldt, in  his  "  Views  of  Nature,"  gives  the  following  graphic 
description  of  the  mode  of  capturing  the  gymnotus  by 
the  natives  :  "  A  number  of  mules  and  horses  are  driven 
mto  a  swamp,  which  is  closely  surrounded  by  Indians,  un- 
til the  unusual  noise  excites  the  daring  fish  to  venture  on 
an  attack.  Serpent-like  they  are  seen  swimming  along 
the  surface  of  the  water,  striving  cunningly  to  glide  under 
the  bellies  of  the  horses.  By  the  force  of  their  invisible 
blows  numbers  of  the  poor  animals  are  suddenly  prostrat- 
ed; others,  snorting  and  panting,  their  manes  erect,  their 
eyes  wildly  flasliing  with  terror,  rush  madly  from  the 
raging  storm ;  but  the  Indians,  armed  with  long  bamboo 
staves,  drive  them  back  into  the  midst  of  the  pool.  Bv 
degrees  the  fury  of  this  unequal  contest  begins  to  slacken. 
Like  clouds  that  have  discharged  their  electricity,  the 
wearied  eels  disperse.  They  require  long  rest  and  nourish- 
ing food  to  repair  the  galvanic  force  which  they  have  so 
lavishly  expended.    Their  shocks  gradually  become  weaker 


98  AFLOAT  UPON  THE  LLANOS. 

and  weaker.  Terrified  by  the  noise  of  the  trampling 
horses,  they  timidly  approach  the  brink  of  the  morass, 
where  they  are  wounded  by  harpoons,  and  drawn  on  shore 
by  non-conducting  poles  of  dry  wood." 

But  what  is  dreaded  even  more  than  the  jaws  of  the 
crocodile,  the  coils  of  the  anaconda,  or  the  powerful  bat- 
tery of  the  electrical  eel,  is  the  caribe,  or  cannibal-fish, 
which  literally  swarms  the  rivers  of  the  Llanos,  rendering 
it  exceedingly  dangerous  to  enter  the  water.  The  ferocity 
of  this  bold  and  ravenous  little  pest  is  terrible ;  and  at 
the  scent  of  blood  they  are  attracted  in  such  myriads, 
that  the  largest  animal  will  quickly  be  consumed  by  them. 
The  largest  caribe  is  four  or  five  inches  in  length,  with 
fierce  eyes,  large,  mouth,  and  teeth  so  exceedingly  sharp 
as  to  be  able  to  sever  ordinary  hooks  as  if  they  were  but 
slender  threads.  The  Waraun  Indians,  alluded  to  in  a 
preceding  chapter,  who  inhabit  the  submerged  lands  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco,  and  live  in  trees,  without  even 
a  spot  of  ground  in  which  to  dejDosit  their  mortal  remains, 
avail  themselves  of  the  ravenous  proclivities  of  the  caribe- 
fish  to  dispose  of  the  flesh  of  their  deceased  relatives. 
"  For  this  purpose  they  tie  the  corpse  with  a  strong  rope, 
and  plunge  it  into  the  water,  securing  the  other  end  of  the 
rope  to  one  of  the  pillars  wpon  which  their  dwellings  rest  ; 
in  less  than  twenty-four  hours  the  skeleton  is  hauled  out  of 
the  water  perfectly  clean,  for  the  teeth  of  the  caribe  have 
stripped  it  of  flesh,  arteries,  tendons,  etc.  Now  all  that 
the  mourners  have  to  do  is,  to  separate  the  bones,  which 
they  arrange  with  much  care  and  nicety  in  baskets  made 
for  the  purpose,  gaudily  ornamented  with  beads  of  various 
colors ;  and  so  Avell  have  they  calculated  beforehand  the 
space  the  bones  will  occupy  in  the  funereal  urn,  that  the 
skull,  tightly  adjusted  against  the  sides  of  the  basket  ?,t 
the  top,  comes  to  be  the  lid  of  it."  "• 

*  Paez,  "  Adventures  in  South  and  Central  America." 


EXPERIENCES   UPON  THE  PAYAEA.  90 

But,  to  return  from  this  zoological  digression.  In  the 
season  of  inundation,  the  native  who  wishes  to  cross  the 
Llanos,  instead  of  following  the  sinuosities  of  the  rivers, 
whose  boundaries  are  generally  marked  by  wooded  banks, 
themselves  often  submerged,  turns  his  canoe  in  the  direction 
of  his  destination,  and,  by  known  land-iiiarks  that  rise  above 
the  spreading  waters,  or,  when  these  are  wanting,  by  the 
sun  in  the  heavens,  guides  his  bark  across  the  country. 
While  distance  is  thus  generally  saved,  dilliculties  are  not 
unfrequently  encountered — sliallow  water  and  tangled 
thickets,  which  impede  the  progress  of  the  voyager.  The 
traveller  from  San  Fernando  to  Urbana,  by  traversing 
the  flooded  lands  of  the  Apure  and  Arauca,  escapes  stem- 
ming some  twenty  leagues  of  the  strong  current  of  the 
Orinoco.  Although  the  waters  had  considerably  subsided, 
our  natives  chose  the  shorter  route,  as  it  would  lead  them 
more  direct  to  their  llano  home.  Over  this  wide  expanse 
of  water  we  now  pushed ;  at  times  following  the  channel 
of  a  stream,  again  threading  our  way  across  broad  plains, 
covered  with  grasses,  the  tops  just  rising  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  floods.  The  aspect  of  the  country  was  dreary 
in  the  extreme ;  a  flat,  monotonous  v>\aste  upon  every  side, 
sweeping  to  the  horizon ;  the  eye  finding  relief  only  now 
and  then  as  it  rested  upon  a  clump  of  palms,  lifting  them- 
selves above  the  waters,  or  a  line  of  trees,  marking  the 
course  of  some  river.  Vast  herds  of  wild  cattle  were 
seen,  which,  at  our  approach,  would  go  plunging  and  swim- 
ming through  the  w^ater.  The  amphibious  life  these  ani- 
mals lead  at  the  season  of  inundation  is  a  remarkable 
feature  in  their  existence.  The  flora  of  this  region  j^re- 
sentcd  nothing  striking,  and  but  few  species  of  flow^ering 
plants  wvre  found.  This  is  characteristic  of  the  Llanos, 
v.'hich  produce  little,  aside  from  sedges  and  grasses,  upon 
their  level  expanse. 

Toward  the  close  of  our  first  day's  adventures  upon 


100  AFLOAT   UPON  THE  LLANOS. 

tlie  flooded  plains  constituting  the  great  delta  of  the 
Apure,  we  emerged  from  a  creek,  that  we  had  for  some 
little  time  been  following,  into  the  Payara,  one  of  the 
large  branches  of  this  net-work  of  rivers,  Discovei-ing 
upon  its  elevated  banks  a  habitation,  half-concealed  in  a 
banana-grove,  we  pulled  up  for  the  night.  For  want  of 
room  within  the  dirty,  gloomy  hovel,  we  sti:etched  our 
hammocks  between  banana-trunks — herbs  of  a  year's 
growth,  eight  and  ten  inches  in  diameter,  and  ten  to 
twelve  feet  in  height.  We  were  not  yet  initiated  in  the 
use  of  mosquiteros,  and  niany  sancudos  secured  admis- 
sion at  the  same  time  with  ourselves,  much  to  our  discom- 
fort. Turning  and  shaking  our  nets,  we  made  another 
trial  for  solitary  comjDanionship,  which  proved  even  more 
unsuccessful  than  our  first.  Again  and  again,  the  revers- 
ing and  shaking  process  was  repeated,  but  after  each 
operation  the  number  of  sancudos  within  multiplied,  until 
they  seemed  to  be  more  numerous  within  than  without. 
As  a  last  resort  we  rolled  ourselves  in  our  blankets,  from 
head  to  foot ;  but  the  stifling  heat  soon  rendered  this 
unsupportable,  when,  in  despair,  we  abandoned  our  ham- 
mocks, and  passed  the  long  hours  of  the  night  in  walk- 
ing to  and  fro  along  the  river-bank,  crouching  occasionally, 
when  wearied  in  batting  with  our  unseen  foe,  in  the  smoke 
of  our  smouldering  fire.  Morning  came,  when  we  wreaked 
vengeance  on  our  persecutors,  by  gathering  up  our  nets, 
and  crushing  by  wholesale  the  imprisoned  sancudos. 

Our  bongos,  having  gone  some  distance  to  an  estate  to 
discharge  a  portion  of  their  cargo,  wei-e  detained  through 
the  day,  and,  having  with  them  the  supplies  for  the  entire 
party,  we  were  forced  to  wait  for  their  return,  and  pass 
another  night  in  this  infested  place,  to  which  Egypt,  in  the 
days  of  its  plagues,  must  have  been  a  perfect  paradise. 
Of  all  the  annoyances  to  which  the  traveller  on  these 
rivers  is  subjected,  the  insects  are  the  most  to  be  dreaded. 


MYKIADS   OF  AQUATIC   BIPwDS.  IQI 

For  supper  we  obtained  a  fine  iclithyological  specimen  from 
the  river,  and  invited  the  sole  occupant  of  the  hut  to  share 
with  us,  which  act  we  had  ample  occasion  to  seriously  re- 
gret. That,  like  ourselves,  he  had.  eaten  little  or  nothing 
since  the  day  previous  was  more  than  probable,  although 
a  banana-grove  stood  at  his  door,  loaded  with  fruit,  and  a 
stream  filled  with  fish  flowed  by  his  hut.  His  mud  hovel, 
where,  in  his  hammock,  he  spent  the  greater  part  of  his 
existence,  was  a  den  of  filth  and  darkness.  At  intervals, 
when  the  stings  of  sancudos  were  no  longer  endurable,  he 
would  gather  an  armful  of  vreeds  and  sticks  with  which  to 
build  a  smudge  for  expelling  the  insects  from  his  hut, 
which  being  secured,  he  would  remove  the  heap  of  burning 
rubbish  just  outside  the  entrance,  and  place  a  stifl"  ox-hide 
against  the  only  aperture  to  render  the  exclusion  of  the 
pest  doubly  efiectual,  and  then  settle  himself  back  into  his 
hammock  for  another  siesta. 

After  another  wretched  night  among  the  sancudos  of 
Fayara,  we  were  joined  by  our  bongos  and  gladly  pushed 
on  our  journey.  The  banks  again  gradually  lowering,  we 
once  more  found  entrance  upon  the  submerged  land.  In 
some  places  the  waters  were  collected  into  channels  of 
great  depth,  in  others  they  spread  out  over  the  plain,  re- 
peating again  the  scenes  of  the  Pao.  The  air  was  literally 
filled  with  dense  flocks  of  cranes,  herons,  flamingoes, 
spoonbills,  and  other  aquatic  birds,  while  thousands  more 
whitened  the  half-submerged  plain.  Where  the  banks 
were  visible  they  were  lined  with  caimans,  alongside  which 
stalked  with  martial  air  great  soldados*  while  toninas, 
fresh-water  porpoises,  sported  in  the  water,  spouting  jets 
of  water,  like  the  larger  cetaceans  of  the  ocean,  and,  fre- 
quently rising  near  the  boat,  would  salute  us  with  a  start- 

*  The  soldado,  or  soldier-bird,  is  a  species  of  heron ;  one  we  secured 
measured  eight  feet  and  seven  inches  between  the  tips  of  its  wings,  and 
stood  about  five  feet  in  heijrht. 


102  AFLOAT   UPON   THE  LLANOS. 

ling  explosion.  At  11  a.  m.  we  drew  np  to  an  clevnted 
island-spot  for  breakfast,  where  we  shot  a  wild-boar,  such 
as  wander  in  herds  over  the  savannas.  Removing  the 
head,  and  dividing  the  body  lengthwise  into  halves,  the 
hair  was  singed,  and  the  meat  sufficiently  roasted  over  a 
huge  fu'e  to  preserve  it  until  vre  should  bivouac  for  the 
night.  The  wild-hog  of  the  Llanos  is  the  common  species, 
escaped  from  domestication,  and,  like  the  wild  liorses  and 
cattle  which  feed  upon  the  plains  in  such  numbers,  is  not 
indigenous,  but  was  introduced  by  Europeans  upon  the  first 
settlement  of  the  country. 

Having  spent  the  night  upon  a  wooded  bank,  at  three 
o'clock  the  following  morning  all  things  were  again  towed 
on  board,  and  we  were  once  more  in  motion  up  the  Ata- 
maica.  At  10  a.  m,  we  stopped  for  breakfast  and  a  cock- 
fight. A  feathered  gamester  constitutes  an  essential  ac- 
companiment of  the  Llanero  voyager,  and,  on  every  oppor- 
tunity that  presented  itself,  our  patron  trotted  out  his  bird 
for  a  contest. 

We  saw  here  the  manati,  or  vaca  marina  (sea-cow), 
called  by  the  Brazilians  pdxeboi,  or  cow-fish,  which  had 
been  captured  by  the  natives.  This  seal-like  mammal  be- 
longs to  the  cetaceous  family,  is  from  eight  to  fifteen  feet 
in  length,  and  sometimes  exceeds  one  thousand  pounds  in 
weight.  The  head  is  small,  with  thick,  fleshy  lips  and  a 
large  mouth.  Its  eyes  and  auricular  organs  are  very 
small,  yet  the  senses  of  both  these  organs  are  exceedingly 
acute.  The  body  is  covered  with  a  smooth,  thick  skin ; 
the  flesh,  something  between  pork  and  beef,  is  held  in  high 
estimation  by  the  inhabitants.  The  fat  of  the  animal, 
called  manteca  de  manati,  manati-butter,  is  void  of  that 
odor  peculiar  to  cetaceous  oil  generally,  and  is  used  for 
illumination  and  cooking;  while  the  strong  skin,  cut  into 
strips,  supplies  the  natives  with  cords  and  ropes.  This 
herbaceous  cetacea  inhabits  the  waters  of  the  Lower  Orino- 


UPON  THE   AKAUCA.  103 

CO  and  most  of  its  tributaries  below  tbc  Great  Cataracts, 
being  especially  abundant  in  the  lagoons  and  marshes  of 
the  Llanos,  where  prodigious  numbers  arc  annually  caught. 
One  mode  of  capturing  it  is  by  building  stockades  across 
the  outlets  of  fords  and  lakes,  iip  which  the  animals  have 
passed  during  the  time  of  high  water,  and  when  the  floods 
subside  they  are  easily  taken.  Another  method  is  by  har- 
pooning them  when  they  rise  to  the  surface  to  breathe, 
which  they  are  frequently  obliged  to  do.  When  exhausted 
by  its  mad  flight,  dragging  after  it  in  wild  speed  the  canoe 
to  which  it  is  attached  by  a  long  cord,  fastened  to  the 
missile  that  has  penetrated  its  body,  it  at  length  yields 
itself  a  victim,  and  its  body  floats  upon  the  water.  It  is 
then  dispatched  by  its  pursuers,  who,  springing  overboard, 
immerse  the  canoe  and  slip  it  under  the  huge  monster. 
They  then  bale  out  the  water,  and,  seating  themselves 
upon  their  captive,  row"  to  land  with  their  cargo. 

Before  noon  avc  entered  upon  the  broad,  muddy  cur- 
rent of  the  Arauca.  The  banks  were  elevated  and  heavily 
wooded;  and  groups  of  monkeys  (araguatos  and  monos), 
gambolled  through  the  branches  and  upon  the  thick  cordage 
of  lianas,  that  embraced  the  giant  trunks,  and  interlaced 
their  boughs.  Conspicuous  amid  this  luxuriant  growth  of 
vegetation  was  the  saman,  that  species  of  mimosa  whicli 
attains  to  such  magnificent  proportions  in  the  valley  of 
Aragua.  Its  umbrella-shaped  crown  of  delicate,  feathery 
leaves,  with  each  tree  almost  a  forest  in  itself,  presents 
one  of  the  striking  features  in  the  vegetation  of  the  Llanos 
of  the  Apure.  The  Bombax  ceiba,  or  wild  cotton-tree, 
is  also  abundant  here,  and  is  one  of  the  most  useful,  as  it 
is  one  of  the  most  imposing,  of  the  forest  monarchs.  The 
immense  size  of  its  trunk,  and  the  softness  of  its  wood, 
render  it  extremely  valuable  for  large  canoes.  Our  two 
bongos  were  hollowed  out  from  this  tree,  and  would  meas- 
ure forty  feet  in  length  and  over  six  between  the  sides, 


104  AFLOAT   UPON  THE  LLANOS. 

with  scarcely  any  perceptible  dilFerence  in  size  between 
the  two  extremities.  The  ceiba  produces  a  pod,  contain- 
ing a  fine,  silky  cotton,  which  is  used  by  the  Indians  for 
the  Jlechetes,  or  light  arrows,  of  their  blow-guns,  besides 
being  iiseful  for  a  variety  of  purposes  where  the  ordinary 
cotton  would  be  too  coarse  and  heavy.  We  occasionally 
got  sight  of  a  'perro  de  agua,  or  water-dog ;  but  their  ex- 
treme shyness  seldom  aiforded  us  an  opportunity  for  a 
close  acqxiaintance  with  these  somewhat  singular  animals. 
They  resemble  in  their  general  aspect  a  beaver,  are  three 
and  four  feet  in  length,  and  have  a  very  fine  fur.  An- 
other strange  denizen  of  these  rivers,  which  we  frequently 
saw,  is  the  ehiguire^^'  or  water-hog,  but  in  no  way  is  it 
allied  to  the  land-quadruped  of  that  name.  It  is  the 
largest  known  rodent,  measuring  at  least  tliree  feet  in 
length,  is  exceedingly  bulky,  and  without  a  tail.  It  is 
found  in  great  numbers  in  the  districts  of  the  Apure  and 
Orinoco,  roaming  over  land  and  water  for  its  subsistence, 
delighting  particularly  in  the  sweet  stalks  of  the  siigai*- 
cane.  It  possesses  a  most  offensive  odor,  v>'ith  a  fishy 
flavor  to  its  flesh  ;  notwithstanding,  the  jaguars  feed  rav- 
enously upon  them,  while  the  Indians  regard  them  as  ex- 
cellent eating. 

After  several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  reach  the  sub- 
merged plain  which  stretched  out  to  the  southward,  by 
passing  through  breaks  in  the  low  banks  of  the  Arauca, 
we  at  last  succeeded.  Tlse  water  was  nowhere  of  any 
great  depth,  and  often  our  lieavily-laden  bongos  ran 
aground  ;  when  the  natives,  jumping  overboard  and  apply- 
ing their  shoulders  to  the  crafts,  would  push  them  along 
to  where  the  water  was  of  sufficient  depth  to  again  float 
them.  We  soon  entered  a  lagoon,  the  source  of  the  Rio 
Clarito,  but  its  boundaries  it  was  impossible  to  deter- 
mine, as  the  banks  were  nowhere  visible  above  the  water 

*  Hydrochsevus  capybara. 


AT  ASAIBA.  105 

whicli  inundated  the  country  in  every  direction  to  the 
horizon.  Garsons,  and  the  many  species  of  white  aquatic 
birds  "wliich  had  become  so  familiar  to  us,  had  left  these 
domains  almost  exclusively  to  ducks  and  geese,  which 
were  here  in  thousands,  and  filled  the  air  with  their  cries. 
Now  and  then  was  seen  a  brace  of  noisy  gnacamayas,  or 
a  flock  of  parrots,  winging  their  way  over  the  watery 
waste  toward  more  promising  realms.  Unable  to  find 
dry  land  upon  which  we  could  bivouac,  we  contented  our- 
selves with  some  bits  of  cassava  we  had  remaining  on 
board,  and  continued  our  voyage,  reaching,  by  10  p.  m,, 
Asaiba,  the  island  estate  of  the  commander  of  our  log  fleet. 
Here  we  had  oui-  first  experience  with  jiggers,  or  niguas 
{Pidex  penetrans),  which,  as  we  discovered  in  the  morning, 
filled  the  sand  beneath  our  hamm^ocks.  Yv^e  had  heard 
much,  and  seen  not  a  little,  of  the  eflfects  resulting  from 
the  burrowing  of  these  minute  insects  beneath  the  skin, 
but  had  never  ourselves  before  been  made  the  object  of 
their  attentions.  This  microscopic  insect  generally  buries 
itself  in  some  part  of  the  feet,  but  no  portion  of  the  body 
is  exempted  from  them.  Having  found  for  itself  a  home, 
it  deposits  a  cluster  of  eggs,  enclosed  in  a  sack,  which, 
upon  developing,  colonize  the  limb  in  which  they  are 
established.  The  first  indication  of  the  presence  of  the 
insect  is  a  peculiar  itching  sensation,  which  is  followed  in 
a  few  days,  if  the  removal  of  the  nigua  be  neglected,  by 
swelling,  that  in  time  becomes  exceedingly  painful.  It  is 
not  uncommon  to  see  among  the  natives  jiggered  feet  dis- 
tended to  frightful  proportions  ;  the  aflccted  member  re- 
taining permanently  its  unnatural  size.  Not  unfrequently 
they  render  amputation  necessary,  and  sometimes  occasion 
death.  Foreigners  are  especially  subject  to  their  attacks ; 
and  the  eflects  resulting  therefrom  upon  such  are  also 
worse  than  upon  the  natives  of  the  country.  For  mothers 
to  search  the  feet  of  their  children  for  niguas,  is  as  much 


106  AFLOAT  UPON  THE  LLANOS. 

a  pnrt  of  their  daily  task  as  to  furnish  the  household  with 
food  ;  Avhile  their  own  extremities  are  to  them  a  source  of 
ceaseless  care. 

We  were  shown  at  this  hacienda  a  huge  jaguar,  or 
tiger,  as  it  is  called  by  the  natives,  which  had  been  shot 
upon  the  day  previous.  This  animal,  the  Felis  onpa  of 
naturalists,  is  abundant  in  the  Llanos,  as  well  as  in  most 
parts  of  South  America.  It  is  nearly  equal  in  size  to  the 
royal  tiger  of  the  East,  and  possesses  much  of  the  ferocity 
and  daring  of  that  animal,  but  differs  from  it  in  the  marking 
of  its  skin,  which,  instead  of  being  striped,  is  mottled. 
Another  characteristic  peculiar  to  the  jaguar  is,  unlike  the 
Bengal  tiger,  its  ability  to  clknb  trees  with  ease,  however 
smooth  the  trunk.  It  moves  with  the  greatest  agility 
among  the  branches,  making  birds  and  sometimes  mon- 
keys its  prey.  It  is  a  frequent  visitor,  at  night,  to  the 
encampment  of  the  traveller,  but  is  kept  at  a  respectful 
distance  by  a  fire.  Turtles,  with  their  impenetrable  cover- 
ing, often  fall  a  prey  to  the  jaguar,  which  secures  the  flesh, 
asserts  Humboldt,  by  first  tui-ning  them  upon  their  backs, 
when,  insinuating  his  paw  between  the  shells,  he  empties 
them  of  their  contents.  He  is  also  a  good  fishei*,  confining 
his  operations  to  the  margins  of  streams,  hurling  his  prey 
upon  the  land  with  his  paw.  Allied  to  the  jaguar  is  the 
puma,  or  South  American  lion  [JPelts  concolor),  the  same 
as  our  panther,  but  much  larger,  and  more  predaceous  in 
its  habits.  It  is  of  a  tawny  and  nearly  uniform  color,  pos- 
sessing most  of  the  traits  of  its  spotted  congener.  It  is 
frequently  met  in  the  mountains  of  Venezuela,  and  is  not 
uncommon  upon  the  lowlands  of  the  interior.  Besides 
the  jaguar  and  jiuma,  there  is  a  black  tiger,  which  is  larger 
and  jnore  ferocious  than  either  of  the  others,  but  is  not 
common  upon  the  Llanos,  the  forests  of  the  Orinoco  and 
Amazons  being  its  more  favorite  haunts. 

We  delayed  half  a  day  at  Asaiba  to  procure  supplies 


ABNOEMAL  EUTCHEEING.  107 

for  the  remainder  of  our  voyage  to  the  Orinoco.  An  ox 
was  slaughtered,  and  the  meat  rolled  in  salt  and  thrown 
upon  the  hide  which  covered  the  cargo  of  the  boat,  there 
to  bake  in  the  hot  sun.  The  manner  of  killing  a  beef  on 
the  Llanos  is  not  one  of  the  least  novel  sights  beheld  by 
the  traveller  in  that  country.  If  the  herd  be  in  a  corral, 
the  animal  is  easily  captured,  but,  if  upon  the  savanna,  the 
lassoing  and  bringing  of  a  victim  to  the  place  of  execution 
generally  afford  an  exciting  time.  The  bullock  being 
secured,  the  matador  cautiously  approaches  with  a  knife, 
and,  by  a  dexterous  thrust  just  back  of  the  horns,  brings 
the  animal  to  the  ground.  The  flesh  is  stripped  from  the 
carcass,  without  any  special  regard  to  anatomy,  or  the 
"  cuts  "  of  the  butcher,  leaving  the  skeleton  whole  as  if 
picked  by  vultures.  Sitting  in  a  circle  around  the  slaugh- 
tered beast  are  a  dozen  or  more  half-starved,  wolfish  dogs, 
while  the  trees  about  are  dark  with  zamuros,  or  black 
vultures,*  waiting  for  their  portion  of  the  sjsoils.  Almost 
before  the  way  is  clear,  there  is  a  general  rushing,  tearing, 
and  pulling,  and  not  always  does  the  best  harmony  prevail 
among  the  hairy  and  feathered  scavengers.  The  gristly 
sheets  of  meat  are  salted  and  hung  over  poles  out  of  the 
reach  of  birds  and  dogs,  to  cure  and  toughen.  The  more 
flies,  dirt,  and  smoke  that  can  get  to  it,  the  better ;  for 
thereby  is  secured  that  odor  so  peculiar  to  South  American 
jerked  beef 

By  noon  we  were  ready  to  embark.  One  of  the  large 
bongoSj  freighted  with  maize  and  papelon  for  Urbana 
market,  together  with  supplies  for  our  voyage  thither, 
received  us  aboard.  Our  crew  consisted  of  two  rowers, 
and  a  patron,  Celestino  Gomez,  who  bore  the  title  of  cap- 
tain, from  having  served  in  that  capacity  in  one  of  the 
political  wars  of  the  republic.  Our  craft  was  uncovered, 
thus  exposing  us  to  the  excessive  heat  of  the  sun.     Upon 

*  Cathartes  atratus. 


108  AFLOAT   UPON   THE  LLANOS. 

the  savannas  of  the  Apurc,  the  temperature  of  the  clay,  as 
we  have  before  stated,  often  rises  above  100°  Fahr.,  and 
this  is  but  little  lessened  by  the  shades  of  night.  When 
the  sun  was  obscured  by  clouds  which  overcast  the  heav- 
ens, thus  impeding  radiation  from  the  earth,  the  heat 
became  even  more  oppressive. 

The  Rio  Clarito,  down  whose  course  we  vrere  floating, 
has  its  waters,  as  the  name  of  the  river  signifies,  beauti- 
fully clear ;  yet  the  stream  appears  of  an  inky  color,  re- 
flecting light  so  admirably  that  we  could  see  our  image  as 
in  a  mirror,  Notwithstanding  the  presence  of  a  coloring 
principle,  imparted  to  the  waters  by  percolation  through 
the  thick  masses  of  vegetable  matter  which  cover  the  earth, 
these  aguas  negras,  or  black  waters,  as  they  are  called, 
had  to  us  an  agreeable,  although  a  peculiar,  taste,  and 
were  preferable  to  the  white,  muddy  mixtures  of  the  Pao, 
Apure,  and  Orinoco,  such  as  we  were  compelled  to  use  for 
so  long  a  time.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  springs  in 
the  interior  are  of  rare  occurrence;  we  travelled  from 
Valencia  to  Para,  a  distance  of  over  three  thousand  miles, 
without  as  much  as  once  quenching  our  thirst  with  a  more 
refreshing  beverage  than  the  impure  and  tepid  water  ob- 
tained from  the  rivers  we  navigated.  It  is  a  remarkable 
phenomenon  that  the  same  district  of  country  should  give 
rise  to  streams,  some  of  whose  waters  are  white  and 
thick  with  sediment,  while  others  are  black,  yet  admirably 
clear.  The  explanation  must,  doubtless,  be  sought  in.  the 
difierent  nature  of  the  soil  over  which  the  rivers  flow,  and 
the  varied  tinctorial  qualities  of  the  vegetation  along  the 
courses  of  the  streams. 

Two  hours  of  steady  rowing  from  Asaiba  brought  us 
to  Rio  Claro,  also  a  black-water  river,  where  the  banks 
a^ain  disappeared,  and  the  stream  lost  itself  in  the  Za- 
guna  de  los  Indies,  a  section  of  coimtry  partially  covered 
with  forest,  in  places  so  intricate  as  to  make  navigation 


NAVIGATING  SUBMEKGED  FORESTS.  109 

exceedingly  difficult  and  laborious.  No  longer  guided  in 
this  trackless  maze  by  a  regular  channel,  tv'C  frequently 
would  be  brought  to  a  stand  by  an  impenetrable  thicket, 
and  obliged  to  retrace  our  course,  and  try  another,  with, 
perhaps,  like  success.  Our  bongo  was  forced  through 
dense  bushes,  oftentimes  grounding,  then  floating  high 
among  the  trees,  which  barely  lifted  their  spreading  sum- 
mits above  the  waters.  Our  toilsome  windings  at  length 
terminated  in  our  becoming  entangled  in  the  labyrinth  of 
forests  and  waters,  from  which  there  seemed  no  escape. 
The  thought  of  going  supperless  was  by  no  means  a  com- 
forting reflection,  but  that  was  easily  to  be  foregone,  com- 
pared with  the  torture  of  sancudos,  the  busy  hum  of  whose 
marshalling  legions  was  already  heard.  Night  came  on 
apace,  and  settled  round  us  black  and  cheerless  ;  when,  un- 
able to  proceed  in  the  thick  darkness,  we  moored  to  a  tree 
which  rose  above  the  black  waters,  to  wait  for  the  morn- 
ing. "Weary  and  hopeless,  we  threw  ourselves  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  boat  and  tried  to  sleep ;  but  myriads  of  insects 
swarmed  the  air,  with  which  we  contested  until  conquered, 
and  then  in  despair  yielded  ourselves  their  prey.  The 
long-wished-for  dajdight  brought  us  relief,  when,  casting- 
loose  from  our  aerial  anchorage,  we  resumed  our  efibrts  to 
extricate  ovirselves  from  the  flooded  forests.  Pressed  by 
hunger,  we  devised  means  of  relief  by  taking  the  larger  of 
our  two  iron  kettles,  and,  with  the  simple  modification  of 
putting  the  fire  inside  instead  of  out,  the  fuel  for  which 
was  dry  branches  j^rocured  from  trees,  we  soon  had  coffee 
made  in  our  reserved  pot,  and  this,  with  meat  roasted 
on  spits,  furnished  us  a  meal  to  which  our  appetites  were 
prepared  to  do  ample  justice. 

Again  pushing  on,  rowing  where  the  depth  of  water 
and  absence  of  forest  allowed,  elsewhere  poling  or  hauling 
ourselves  along  by  the  branches  of  "the  trees,  we  slowly 
made  way  through  the  gloomy  labyrinth,  from  which  the 


110  AFLOAT   UPON   THE  LLANOS. 

compass  furnished  the  only  clew  by  which  to  extricate  our- 
selves. After  many  hours  of  wearisome  efforts,  we  emerged 
into  the  Arauca  ;  only  known  to  be  a  river  by  the  forest 
walls  which  formed  a  narrow  channel.  So  floating  down, 
we  came,  by  2  p.  m.,  where  dry  land  appeared,  and  here  we 
disembarked  for  food  and  rest  After  a  couple  of  hours 
spent  upon  the  slightly-elevated  bank,  we  continued  our 
voyage,  shut  in  by  interminable  lines  of  verdure  which 
bordered  the  stream.  Just  before  night  shrouded  all, 
a  sudden  turn  in  the  river  revealed  to  our  view  in  the 
distance  the  hills  of  Guiana,  beyond  the  Orinoco.  After 
our  long  voyage  over  an  inundated  country,  where  not 
the  slightest  elevation  breaks  the  sameness  of  the  land- 
scape, it  was  with  a  feeling  of  relief,  mingled  with  inex- 
pressible joy,  at  the  near  prospect  of  a  more  propitious 
land,  that  we  beheld  the  range  of  hills,  which  stretched  in 
distinct  outline  against  the  rich  background  of  the  even- 
ing sky. 

It  Avas  after  dark  Avhen  we  floated  into  the  waters  of 
the  Orinoco,  and  moored  our  canoe  upon  the  western  shore 
of  that  majestic  river,  Avhose  floods,  gatheredbytlie  count- 
less tributaries  which  drain  the  vast  regions  of  Venezuela, 
together  with  much  of  Colombia,  bringing  down  the  melt- 
ing snows  from  the  Andean  su7nmits,  rolled  onward  in  one 
mighty,  impetuous  tori*ent  until  lost  in  the  Atlantic.  No 
river  in  the  world  possesses  such  grand  and  sublime  scenery, 
varied  by  such  picturesque  mountains,  plains,  rapids,  lovely 
islands,  forests,  and  life  in  so  many  thousand  and  attrac- 
tive forms.  This  was  the  stream  upon  which  we  were  now 
to  sail,  and  these  the  scenes  that  were  to  delight  us.  Upon 
the  sandy  bank  of  the  river  we  threw  ourselves  for  the 
night,  with  the  mountain  glimpses  calling  to  our  dreams 
the  hills  of  our  own  distant  home. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

UKBAXA. 

The  Orinoco. — Preparatious  for  entering  Urbana. — Keception  at  the  Town. 
— A  Fiesta-Day.— Our  Quarters. — Smoking  out  Bats. — Deseription  of 
Town. — Ascent  of  CeiTO. — Picturesque  View. — Harper's  Weekly. — 
Insects  and  Birds. — Annoying  Delays. — Arrangements  for  Voyage  up 
the  Orinoco. 

Eaelt  on  tlic  morning  of  the  2Sth  of  October,  we 
crossed  the  Oi-inoco — which,  at  this  point,  is  a  league  in 
breadth — to  Urbana,  located  directly  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Arauca.  The  river  had  fallen  to  its  medium  height, 
from  the  annual  rise,  which  lifts  the  Orinoco,  at  Urbana, 
from  thirty  to  thirty-five  feet  above  its  lowest  water-mark ; 
a  change  of  level  much  less  than  occurs  higher  up,  where 
the  stream  is  forced  through  narrow  passes,  as  at  the 
Straits  of  Baraguan  and  the  Great  Cataracts.  Landing 
a  short  distance  above  the  town,  beneath  the  shelter  of  a 
projecting  promontory  of  granitic  rocks,  we  proceeded  to 
make  ourselves  look  as  respectable  as  circumstances  would 
permit,  before  encountering  civilization.  A  small  wooden 
trunk  was  hauled  out  from  the  bongo,  and  Celestino,  our 
patron,  soon  underwent  a  transformation  tliat  gave  him  a 
decidedly  picturesque  appearance.  His  habiliment,  the 
usual  dress  suit  of  the  llanero,  consisted  of  a  pair  of  light- 
brown  pants  extending  to  the  knees,  whence  each  leg  was 
prolonged  into  two  points,  reaching  to  the  feet.     Beneath 


112  UKBANA. 

these  flo-\ving  appendages  "were  fastened  separate  pieces 
of  white  linen,  serving  for  extensions  of  the  abbreviated 
trousers.  A  blue-flannel  camisa,  ornamented  with  white 
trimmings,  was  worn  outside  of  his  pantaloons  in  lieu  of  a 
coat.  Two  hats,  the  inner  wool,  the  outer  straw,  consti- 
tuted his  head-gear,  supplemented  at  the  other  end  by 
white  stockings  and  shining  patent-leather  shoes.  Our 
boatmen  were  less  grotesquely  but  neatly  attired,  being 
barefooted,  and  encumbered  with  only  one  hat  each.  We 
confess  that  "  Los  Nortes,"  when  "  fixed "  in  their  best, 
did  not  loom  np  very  liigh  in  their  own  estimation  ;  and, 
we  apprehend,  did  not  cut  very  impressive  figures  in  the 
eyes  of  their  natives.  The  probabilities  that  we  should  be 
taken  by  the  XJrbanians  as  attendants  of  our  crew  were 
rather  mortifying.  But  what  could  we  further  do  to  im- 
prove our  appearance  ?  Our  soiled  and  rusty  garments 
had  been  whipped  and  our  panamas  washed ;  our  coarse 
flannel  shirts,  with  collars  of  the  same,  were  as  clean  as 
muddy  water  would  make  them,  and  as  smooth  as  they 
could  be  stretched;  neck-ties,  which  were  reserved  ibr 
special  occasions  like  the  present,  had  been  drawn  from 
our  overloaded  pockets,  and  now  graced  our  sunburnt 
necks.  A  glance  around  upon  the  motley-arrayed  group 
told  that  all  were  ready,  when  vamos  was  given,  and  we 
Avere  off  for  the  town. 

Reaching  Urbana,  we  were  met  iipon  the  beach  by  the 
president  of  the  village  and  other  officials,  with  many  of 
the  citizens,  who  received  us  with  the  hearty  welcome  so 
characteristic  of  the  Spaniard,  and  which  was  extended 
us  wherever  we  went.  We  had  arrived  upon  one  of  their 
numerous  fiesta-days,  and  the  people  were  luxuriating  in 
the  festivities  of  the  occasion.  A  grand  banquet  was  to 
be  given  to  all  the  celebrities  of  the  town  at  the  casa,  or 
house  of  the  chief  executive,  and  to  this  we  accepted  an 
invitation.     At  10  A.  M.,  the  designated  hour,  we  made 


A  FIESTA-DAY.  113 

our  ^v:vy  to  the  president's  dwelling,  where,  in  his  main 
apartment,  we  found  a  cockfight  in  full  blast  as  a  prelude 
to  the  dinner.  One  of  the  gamesters  belonged  to  the  chief 
executive,  who,  with  much  gusto,  was  personally  attending 
upon  his  feathered  representative  in  the  contest.  This 
affair  at  length  terminated,  the  bloody  arena  was  cleared, 
and  the  crowd  for  a  while  dispersed.  Assembling  again  at 
tlie  expiration  of  another  hour,  the  guests,  about  thirty  in 
number,  at  the  announcement  of  dinner,  with  a  rush  like 
a  ]Dack  of  half-famished  wolves,  surrounded  the  festive 
board.  Had  it  been  desirable  to  seat  the  guests,  the  table 
would  not  have  accommodated  over  a  third  of  the  number 
present.  Such  inconveniences  as  chairs  were  therefore 
dispensed  with,  excepting  a  couple  which  were  provided 
for  Xios  Americanos.  The  dishes  displayed  were  many  in 
number,  but  seemed,  for  the  most  part,  to  have  originated 
from  one  individual  of  the  swine  species.  The  head  of  the 
victim  was  upon  one  platter,  its  ribs  upon  another,  the  legs 
projected  over  a  third,  while  the  other  portions,  fried, 
roasted,  boiled,  and  hashed,  had  been  served  up  for  the 
occasion.  There  were,  furthermore,  a  single  bowl  of  soup, 
and  another  of  boiled  beans,  of  which  only  those  could 
partake  who  were  favored  with  plates  and  spoons  ;  while 
piles  of  broken  cassava  lay  scattered  in  every  direction. 
Coffee  was  not  wanting,  neither  claret,  nor  aguardiente, 
of  which  latter  many  were  tempted  to  imbibe  too  freely. 
Every  man  was  his  own  waiter ;  filling  his  fist  with  a 
great  piece  of  meat,  and  then  falling  back  from  the  table 
to  give  another  the  opportunity  to  secure  a  poi'tion.  Toasts 
and  vivas  followed  each  other  in  quick  alternation  from 
the  feasting  guests.  Finally,  with  vivas  for  "  LosEstados 
Unidos,"  and  "  Los  Americanos  del  Norte,"  they  betook 
themselves  to  the  street,  where  a  procession  was  formed, 
at  the  head  of  which  was  borne,  by  two  girls  dressed  in 
white,  the  Venezuelan  flag  and   our   own   star-spangled 


114  URBANA. 

banner  side  by  side.  Music  and  dancing  in  the  evening 
closed  the  celebration  and  festivities  of  the  day. 

We  now  turned  toward  our  temporary  home,  the  best 
that  the  place  afforded,  an  abandoned  pulperia,  and,  upon 
opening  the  doors,  were  greeted  by  a  swarm  of  hideous, 
screeching  bats,  as  they  made  their  exit  from  the  building. 
A  war  of  extermination  was  at  once  inaugurated ;  but  we 
soon  discovered  our  enemy  had  the  better  of  the  game ;  for, 
when  we  made  an  attack  with  jDoles,  they  clustered  uj)  be- 
neath tlie  high  palm-leaf  roof,  whose  loose  meshes  seemed 
to  be  fairly  alive  with  the  creatures,  and  whence  they 
poiired  out  re  enforcements  unlimited.  Smoking  was  then 
resorted  to,  Avhich,  we  inferred,  would  bring  them  to  a 
realizing  sense  of  the  undesirableness  of  their  presence; 
but  they  very  quietly  secreted  themselves  in  the  thatched 
roof  during  the  operation,  while  we  were  compelled  to 
seek  refuge  without.  Failing  to  expel  the  creatures,  we 
in  desjDair  composed  ourselves  in  our  hammocks.  We 
cannot  say  that  the  bats  proved  themselves  such  undesir- 
able night-companions  as  our  imaginations  had  pictured 
them  to  be,  for  the  oppressive  heat  of  our  ill-ventilated 
room  was  greatly  mitigated  by  their  winging  their  way 
to  and  fro,  fanning  the  air  to  a  constant  breeze. 

Urbana,  Avhich  has  a  Spanish  population  of  about  five 
hundred,  comprises  a  church,  three  pulperias,  and  about 
sixty  dwellings,  Avhich  are  mostly  on  two  streets  parallel 
to  the  river.  A  portion  of  the  houses  are  made  of  mud ; 
while  the  others  are  constructed  wholly  of  palm-leaves  that 
are  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  a  dozen  making  an 
ordinary  load  for  a  yoke  of  oxen  to  drag  in  from  the  plains 
where  they  are  procured.  For  convenience  in  building, 
the  houses  are  made  the  length  of  a  leaf,  which  is  fastened 
on  with  lianas,  or  vines.  Aside  from  a  small  patch  of 
maize,  we  saw  nothing  growing  in  this  district  of  country 
for  the  support  of  the  people.     They  depend  for  subsist- 


SITUATION   OF  UliBANA.  115 

ence  upon  the  fish  and  turtles  of  the  river,  cassava  and 
maize  from  the  Apurc  and  other  sections,  and  upon  their 
lierds,  which  find  abundant  pasturage  on  the  savannas 
amone:  the  broken  sierras  of  Guiana.  Other  necessaries 
of  life  are  brought  up  from  Angostura ;  with  which  town 
there  is  carried  on  a  considerable  trade  in  hides,  large 
numbers  of  which  are  exported  annually  from  Urbana. 

The  A'illage  of  Urbana  is  beautifully  situated  at  the 
foot  of  semi-isolated  hills,  whose  granitic  rocks,  under  the 
effects  of  decomposition,  exhibit  upon  their  summit  gro- 
tesque columns  which  appear  like  the  remains  of  ancient 
ruins.  "We  were  desirous  of  visiting  these  curious  forma- 
tions of  Nature ;  so  one  morning,  accompanied  by  some 
natives,  we  made  the  ascent  of  the  cerros.  Their  sides 
are  exceedingly  precipitous,  and  covered  with  matted 
woods,  which  were  difficult  to  penetrate.  At  length,  after 
an  hour's  hard  climbing,  we  stood  upon  the  rocky  crest, 
and  clambered  up  to  the  cross  that  had  been  planted  by 
devotees  of  the  Catholic  faith,  upon  the  top  of  the  natural 
tower  which  rises  high  above  the  forest.  From  here  wo 
had  a  most  lovely  view  of  savannas,  mountains,  and  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  Orinoco,  Avhich  here  spreads  out  like 
a  vast  lake.  The  little  village  of  Ui-bana  lay  quietly  nes- 
tled at  our  feet,  and  beyond,  across  the  broad  river,  a 
boundless  forest  of  eternal  green,  while  in  other  directions 
rose  range  after  range  of  the  broken  sierras  of  Guiana. 
We  saw  few  landscapes  in  the  tropics  so  varied  and  ex- 
tended. These  hills  seemed  to  be  a  perfect  den  for  casca- 
bels,  or  rattlesnakes.  Of  no  other  section,  visited  in  our 
equatorial  wanderings,  could  we  more  truthfully  speak  as 
being  a  place  , 

"  Where  at  each  step  the  stranger  fears  to  wake 
The  rattlmg  terrors  of  the  vengeful  snake." 

Occasionally  they  found  their  way  into  the  town.     Seated 


116  UEBANA. 

one  evening  with  some  natives  npon  the  ground  in  front 
of  a  dwelling,  the  head  of  one  of  these  serpents,  Avliich 
had  lain  concealed  m  the  grass,  suddenly  appeared  in  our 
midst,  causing  a  hasty  dispersion  of  our  group. 

At  this  village  we  came  across  some  stray  books  and 
papers  that  had  found  their  way  up  from  Angostura, 
among  which  were  several  numbers  of  llarper''s  WeeJc- 
li/,  and  a  copy  of  "  Smith's  Primary  Geography"  in  Span- 
ish print,  but  with  the  same  illustrations  that  adorn  the 
English  edition  of  that  Avork,  It  is  doubtful  if  ever,  in 
our  school-boy  days,  we  thumbed  over  Avith  greater  inter- 
est this  little  volume  for  the  sake  of  its  pictures,  than  Ave 
leaved  it  for  a  similar  purpose  upon  this  occasion.  Any 
thing  that  awakens  in  the  memory  of  the  traA^eller  in  dis- 
tant lands  thoughts  of  home  and  country,  seems  to  possess 
a  peculiar  charm,  Avhicli,  under  other  circumstances,  might 
be  passed  unnoticed. 

Our  rambles  about  Urbana  Avere  productive  of  much 
that  Avas  new  and  interesting.  Among  the  many  beau- 
tiful insects  were  the  blue  Monphos,  those  giants  of  the 
insect-world,  which  Avere  abundant  in  the  fox*est  of  the 
sierras.  There  was  also  a  species  of  white  butterfly,  with 
black-tipped  Avings,  the  same  as  we  have  observed  in  the 
tropical  clime  of  southern  Florida,  But  Avhat  especially 
interested  us  Avere  the  wonders  of  the  formicaria?,  or  ant 
family,  many  species  of  which  abound  here  ;  some  build- 
ing in  hollow  trees,  others  suspending  their  nests  from  the 
branches,  Avhile  still  others  construct  their  homes  under- 
ground. A  large  black  species,  an  inch  or  more  in  length, 
is  the  most  numerous,  as  it  is  also  the  most  A'oracious  and 
destructiA'e  to  vegetation^  stripping  the  foliage  from  trees 
with  a  rapidity  truly  astonishing.  DiA^erging  in  every 
direction  through  the  forest  and  across  the  saAannas,  are 
their  broad  and  AV'cll-beaten  trails,  resembling  sheep-paths. 
We  haA'e  often,  in  our  rambles,  followed  for  lonsr  distances 


ANTS.  ii>j 

deserted  ant-roads,  as  affording  an  easy  path  to  travel. 
Branches  of  these  caminos  reales,  or  royal  roads,  may  be 
traced  to  favorite  species  of  trees,  along  M'hose  trunks  will 
be  found  two  dark  lines  of  these  industrious  w^orkers  ;  in 
one  they  are  ascending,  in  tlie  other  descending,  each  ant 
in  the  latter  line  hid  beneath  a  piece  of  leaf,  which  he  car- 
ries vertically,  as  he  hurries  onward  to  his  home.  It  is 
evident  that  they  perform  their  journey,  not  by  sight,  but 
by  the  sense  of  smell ;  for  we  have  often  broken  their 
lines  by  sweeping  away  the  surface  of  the  earth,  when 
they  would  become  confused,  until  in  their  wild  ramblings 
the  connection  was  discovered,  when  they  would  rush  on 
again  in  heaA^y  phalanx.  When  they  wish  to  cross  a 
stream,  they  seek  a  fallen  trunk  which  spans  the  same,  or 
ascend  a  tree  whose  boiighs  form  a  union  with  others  iipon 
the  opposite  side.  To  test  their  instinct  we  have  removed 
their  bridges,  taking  the  precaution  to  place  ourselves  out 
of  harm's  way.  Satisfying  themselves  that  their  connec- 
tion with  the  opposite  bank  was  severed,  they  sought  a 
crossing  above  or  below,  whicli  being  found,  they  made 
good  their  lines,  and  business  went  on  as  before.  Some 
Indian  tribes  esteem  certain  species  of  these  large  ants  as 
excellent  food.  Humboldt  informs  us  that  he  saw,  upon 
the  headwaters  of  the  Orinoco  and  Rio  Negro,  natives 
who  subsisted  during  a  portion  of  the  year  mainly  upon 
these  insects,  which,  being  dried  and  smoked,  were  mixed 
as  seasoning  into  a  sort  of  paste.  At  Quito,  in  Ecuador, 
we  have  ourselves  observed  the  Indians  to  eat  a  species  of 
coleoptera  collected  in  quantities  and  roasted.  With  less 
preparation,  the  natives  pick  certain  hemipterous  insects 
from  one  another's  heads  and  eat  them  with  peculiar  satis- 
faction. 

So'infestel  are  some  districts  with  ants,  and  so  great 
their  destructive  proclivities,  that  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  secure  the  growth  of  tender  and  siicculent  plants,  which 


118  UKBANA. 

are  almost  sure  to  be  attacked  by  them.  Upon  the  Ori- 
noco and  Kio  Negro  Ave  frequently  observed  tlie  hanging 
gardens  of  the  natives,  wlio,  when  they  wish  to  cultivate 
a  few  vegetables,  sus2")end  from  the  trees,  or  lift  upon 
poles,  a  canoe  filled  with  earth,  and  in  this  plant  their 
seed  with  some  hopes  of  a  harvest.  Should  some  formic 
forager  discover  this  aerial  garden,  immediately  it  is  filled 
with  voracious  insects,  and,  before  the  jilanter  is  aware  of 
their  jiresence,  his  little  crop  has  vanished.  We  found 
them  exceedingly  annoying,  depredating  upon  every  thing 
within  their  reach — and  nothing  can  be  placed  beyond  it. 
Especially  did  they  seem  to  delight  in  feasting  upon  the 
insects  collected  by  us  with  so  great  labor.  We  mention 
these  facts  to  show  some  of  the  obstacles  that  entomolo- 
gists in  the  tropics  have  to  contend  with,  and  how  the 
very  superabundance  of  insects  renders  it  extremely  diffi- 
cult to  secure  any  for  the  purposes  of  science.  We  see, 
furthermore,  what  a  strife  for  existence  man,  in  these  tropi- 
cal regions,  has  to  maintain.  The  soil  is  unsurpassed  in 
fertility,  yet  devastating  insects  prevent  him  from  re- 
ceiving therefrom  his  food,  while  others  inflict  upon  him 
venomous  stings,  or,  burrowing  themselves  in  his  flesh, 
cause  festering  limbs.  Even  the  elements  combine  in 
making  life  one  unwearied  struggle  for  prolongation. 
Driven  by  sv/elling  rivers  which  submerge  the  land,  he 
is  forced,  like  the  wild  beasts,  to  seek  refuge  in  the  moun- 
tains and  on  the  island-like  elevations,  or  even  compelled 
to  fix  his  habitation  in  the  trees,  there  to  subsist  upon  the 
])roducts  of  his  arboreal  home. 

The  ornithology  of  this  district  is  not  remarkable ; 
troupials,  parrots,  and  a  species  allied  to  our  common 
meadow-lark,  being  among  the  most  noticeable  birds. 
The  first-mentioned  suspends  its  nests  in  colonies  from 
branches  of  the  trees  ;  many  stately  nionarchs  on  the 
skirts   of    the   forest,   or   vipon   the   open    savannas — for 


THE   GOLD-EEGIO^"S.  Ug 

these  birds  seem  to  love  the  sunshine — hang  with  hun- 
dreds of  their  long,  sack-like  homes,  with  flocks  of  the 
brilliant-colored  inhabitants  hovering  about  them,  present- 
ing a  beautiful  sight.  Among  the  many  peculiar  sounds 
of  animated  Nature  we  recognized  tlie  familiar  one  "  Wliip- 
poor-will,"  recalling  pleasant  memories  of  our  northern 
home. 

Although  Urbana  is  situated  three  hundred  miles  from 
the  gold-regions  of  Venezuelian  Guiana — the  veritable 
"  El  Dorado,"  whose  fabulous  wealth  is  just  being  made 
known  to  the  world — still  the  Urbanians  were  suilerino- 
from  the  "  gold-fever,"  so  prevalent  throughout  Venezuela. 
The  story  of  the  "  Gilded  King,"  which  inflamed  such  a 
spirit  of  wild  adventure  among  the  conquistadores,  had, 
indeed,  a  more  substantial  foundation  than  we  may  have 
thought — it  was  not  wholly  chimerical,  but  had  such  a 
basis  in  facts  that  we  can  easily  excuse  the  introduction 
of  the  gold-bespangled  monarch.  The  gold-regions  em- 
brace the  broken  mountain-ranges  lying  about  one  hundred 
miles  south  of  the  Orinoco,  in  the  eastern  portion  of  Ven- 
ezuela, between  the  rivers  Essequibo  and  Caroni.  The 
auriferous  quartz  is  found  not  only  in  immense  veins,  but 
also  in  ledges  or  mountain-like  masses,  all  of  a  richness 
which  is  said  to  far  exceed  the  gold-bearing  c[uartz  of 
California.  These  gold-districts  are  easily  accessible  from 
the  coast,  being  situated  inland  scarcely  two  hundred 
miles.  Thus  far  the  greater  portion  of  the  gold  obtained 
from  these  rich  fields  has  been  the  result  of  unsystema- 
tized labor,  but  already  several  companies  are  formed  in 
England,  Germany,  France,  and  the  States,  for  the  open- 
ing of  mines  and  the  scientific  working  of  the  auriferous 
quartz.  The  limits  of  our  owm  w^ork  will  not  enable  us  to 
speak  at  length  iipon  the  wonderful  developments  that 
have  been  made  in  this  incredibly  rich  yet  (until  recently) 
comparatively  unexplored  field  ;  but  we  must  refer  our 


]  20  UEBANA. 

readers  to  the  excellent  work,  "  Adventures  in  South  and 
Central  America,"  by  Don  Ramon  Paez,  where  will  be 
found,  in  the  chapter,  "  The  Laud  of  El  Dorado,"  a  full 
account  of  these  regions. 

The  temperature  of  Urbana,  although  hot,  is  not  so 
oppressive  as  that  which  we  experienced  elsewhere.  This 
lower  temperature  is  due  to  the  trade-winds,  which  are 
constant  from  east  to  west,  but  are  felt  with  diminishing 
foi'ce  as  you  ascend  the  Orinoco,  until  reaching  the  Great 
Cataracts,  beyond  which  no  breeze  is  ever  felt.  The  winds 
generally  rise  at  8  or  9  a,  m.,  continuing  until  abovit  4  p.  m., 
and  then  are  felt  again  from  10  p.  ji.  till  three  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  These  imiform  winds  are  of  great  service 
to  vessels  navigating  the  Lower  Orinoco.  The  largest 
craft  that  are  employed  on  the  river  above  Angostura 
are  lanchas,  which  consist  of  a  canoe  for  the  hull,  its  ca- 
pacity being  increased  by  planks  raised  upon  the  sides, 
with  a  carroza  covering  about  half  its  length.  To  ascend 
the  rapids  of  the  river,  smaller  boats  are  necessary. 

Our  stay  at  Urbana  had  been  protracted  much  beyond 
our  first  intentions,  and  we  now  watched  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity to  continue  our  journey.  The  padre  and  gobierno 
of  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo,  a  town  above  the  cataracts 
of  the  Orinoco,  were  daily  expected  upon  their  return  from 
Angostura,  whither  they  had  gone,  and  we  determined  to 
accompany  them  up  the  river.  One  day  the  village  was 
thrown  into  a  state  of  the  greatest  excitement  by  a  sail 
heaving  in  sight,  which  was  supposed  to  be  the  governor's. 
The  artillery  of  Urbana,  which  consisted  of  a  single  brass 
piece  that  a  boy  could  easily  have  carried,  was  dragged 
from  the  arsenal — some  back  kitchen — and  salute  after 
salute  pealed  forth  over  the  water  to  greet  the  approach- 
ing vessel,  the  enthusiasm  of  the  crowd  increasing  as  it 
neared  the  land.     At  Icngtli,  amid  deafening  vivas,  the 


ARRANGEMENTS   FOE  VOYAGE.  121 

boat  pushed  to  its  anchorage,  when,  much  to  the  chagrin 
of  the  inhabitants  and  our  disappointment,  it  proved 
only  a  loaded  lancha  bound  for  the  Rio  Meta.  But,  what 
was  still  more  depressing  to  us  was,  the  intelligence  that 
neither  the  governor  nor  the  padre  would  leave  Angos- 
tura for  several  weeks  yet  to  come.  Urbana  seemed  des- 
tined to  be  the  highest  point  upon  the  Orinoco  we  were 
likely  to  reach.  Neither  craft  nor  crew  could  be  secured, 
nor  a  single  guide  be  found  to  accompany  us  who  was  ac- 
quainted with  the  passage  of  the  Great  Cataracts. 

While  thus  despairingly  discussing  the  probabilities  of 
"  going  through,"  our  Apure  boatmen,  who  had  returned 
to  Asaiba,  again  appeared  at  Ui'bana  with  a  huco,  or 
small  lancha,  which  seemed  just  the  thing  for  ascending 
the  rapids.  Negotiations  were  at  once  opened  with  Celes- 
tino,  the  patron,  which  resulted  in  liis  agreeing  to  take  us 
to  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo,  for  tlic  sum  of  eighty  pesos  ; 
he  furnishing  the  crew  and  supplies  for  the  voyage.  A 
guide  alone  was  all  that  was  lacking.  At  this  juncture  of 
affairs  an  Indian  fortunately  vrandered  into  the  town,  Avho, 
with  the  bribe  of  a  cotton  camisa,  which  we  thought  his 
advent  into  civilization  rendered  desirable,  was  induced  to 
accompany  us  in  the  capacity  of  pilot  to  San  Fernando,  a 
distance  which  it  would  require  nearly  a  month  to  accom- 
plish. Our  craft  measured  thirty  feet  in  length,  with  its 
greatest  breadth  about  six,  and  was  furnished  with  a  sail 
that  could  be  hoisted  when  the  wind  was  favorable.  In 
front  of  the  carroza,  Avhich  covered  about  eight  feet  of  the 
middle  of  the  boat,  and  was  sufficiently  high  to  admit  of 
a  sitting  posture,  were  seats  for  tlie  rowers,  while  the 
patron,  as  steersman,  occupied  the  stern.  A  stock  of  pro- 
visions sufficient  for  the  long  voyage,  excepting  meat,  of 
which  we  were  able  to  obtain  but  little,  was  put  aboard. 
The  wanting  substantial  we  expected  to  be  able  to  sup- 
6 


123  UEBANA, 

ply  ourselves  with  by  the  way.  In  addition  to  our  staples, 
cassava,  eoftee,  papelon,  and  salt,  we  added  a  few  bunches 
of  green  plantains,  with  several  armfuls  of  sugar-canes  to 
eat  when  our  appetites  inclined.  Thus  we  were  prepared 
for  our  voyage  up  the  Orinoco. 


CHAPTER     X 


UP      THE      ORINOCO 


Farewell  to  Urbana. — Strait  of  Baraguan. — Mirage. — Harvest  of  Turtles' 
Eggs. — Camp  of  Indians. — Santa  Barbara. — Indian  Simplicity  and  Be- 
liefs.— Features  of  the  Elver. — Castillo  de  los  Espanoles. — A  Legend. — 
Fiedra  del  Tigre. — Music  iu  the  Eocks. — Eaudal  de  Cariben. — Eio 
Meta. — A  Wild  Scene. — Bats  and  Other  Annoyances. 

IJpoisr  the  afternoon  of  the  9th  of  November,  with  sails 
set  and  flag  floating,  wc  took  our  departure  from  Urhana, 
amid  the  vivas  of  the  inhabitants  who  lined  the  shore, 
and  were  borne  swiftly  along  by  the  breeze  which  swept 
up  the  river.  To  avoid  the  strong  current  and  catch  the 
wind,  we  hugged  the  southern  bank,  drawing  up  at  sun- 
set to  a,  plar/a,  or  sandy  beach,  some  two  hundred  yards  in 
breadth,  left  dry  by  the  falling  of  the  waters.  Here  we 
spread  our  blankets  and  stretched  our  mosquiteros  over 
us,  by  fastening  them  to  the  palancas  of  the  boat,  stuck 
in  the  ground  ;  but  this  jirecaution  was  unnecessary,  for 
all  insectile  pests  are  swept  by  the  winds  fi*om  these  barren 
sand-stretches.  Wild  ducks  and  geese  stalked  the  playa, 
casting  suspicious  glances  toward  our  encampment;  but 
they  were  shy,  and  we  were  unsuccessful  in  our  attempts 
to  secure  some  for  breakfast. 

It  was  scarcely  light  when  we  were  again  breasting 
the  strong  current,  propelled  by  the  paddles  of  our  swarthy 
trio.  At  9  A.  M.,  the  wind  rising,  the  sail  was  hoisted, 
and  the  men  rested  upon  their  benches.     About  noon  v/e 


124  UP  THE  OEINOCO, 

entered  the  Strait  of  Baraguan,  where  the  Orinoco  nar- 
rows to  a  mile  in  width,  with  a  current  so  strong  that  we 
were  compelled  to  land  and  pull  up  by  towage.  Having 
made  the  passage,  we  halted  at  the  base  of  the  picturesque 
granitic  hills  of  Baraguan,  which  stretch  along  the  eastern 
shore,  and  give  their  name  to  the  strait.  The  huge  masses 
of  rocks,  often  disposed  in  columnar  form,  seemed  as  if 
piled  up  by  art ;  but  only  the  agencies  of  Nature  have 
here  been  at  work.  By  tlie  process  of  decomposition,  al- 
ways rapid  in  the  tropics,  the  softer  parts  of  the  rock  are 
removed,  vvdiile  the  harder  portions,  worn  away  more  slow- 
ly, are  left  standing  above  the  general  rock-surface.  Upon 
the  Upper  Orinoco  we  frequently  observed  stones,  nicely 
poised  one  upon  another,  forming  tall  pillars  like  some 
ancient  ruins,  which  have  been  produced  in  the  manner 
above  described.  On  the  mountain-slope  at  Atures  we 
saw  a  stone  wall — the  remains  of  a  dike — over  three  feet 
in  height  and  two  in  thickness,  which,  left  bare  by  the 
crumbling  and  removal  of  the  softer  rock  by  which  it  was 
enclosed,  appeared  as  if  erected  by  the  hand  of  man. 

Upon  the  western  side  of  the  river,  opposite  the  moun- 
tains of  Baraguan,  was  a  large  playa,  upon  which  was  an 
Indian  encampment,  to  which  we  crossed.  It  consisted 
of  a  dozen  iimbrella-shaped  huts,  about  four  feet  high,  con- 
structed from  poles  stuck  in  the  sand  in  a  circle  some 
eight  feet  in  diameter,  with  the  upper  ends  brought  to- 
gether, and  the  whole  covered  with  a  few  palm-leaves, 
scarcely  sufficient  to  ward  off  the  sun,  and  offering  no  pro- 
tection against  the  rains :  but,  as  there  was  nothing  to  get 
wet,  aside  from  iron  pots  and  calabashes,  with  their  own 
naked  persons,  we  imagined  that  a  shower  on  this  hot 
shore  could  be  considered  no  special  inconvenience. .  Un- 
like the  Guaicas  and  Guainarcs  of  the  Upper  Orinoco,  who 
are  remarkable  for  their  diminutive  size,  these  Ottomac 
Indians  were  large,  tlicir  skin  of  a  brownish-red  color,  thciv 


DIRT-EATEES.  125 

hair  thick  and  long,  hanging  over  their  shoulders,  but  cut 
square  olT  just  above  the  eyebrows,  giving  them  a  very- 
grotesque  appearance.  They  were  unpainted,  and  without 
clothing  or  ornaments  of  any  kind  ;  excepting  some  of  the 
women,  who  had  their  lower  lips  jjunctured,  and  sticks  two 
inches  long  inserted.  Upon  inquiry  for  the  gohierno  of 
the  settlement,  who  was  a  Spaniard,  we  were  directed  to 
one  of  the  conti'acted  habitations,  where  we  found  that 
dignitary  seated  iipon  the  ground,  outside  of  his  apology 
for  a  dwelling.  Ilis  wife  was  squatted  inside,  a  sufficient 
reason  why  he  must  remain  excluded.  Two  or  three  royal 
offspring  lay  rolling  naked  in  the  sand.  Where  the  camp 
were  to  get  their  next  meal  was  difficult  to  tell,  as  they 
possessed  not  a  morsel  of  food  among  them.  Perhaps  they 
v/ere  intending  to  make  a  very  satisfactory  one  of  the  clay 
of  the  river  banks  ;  for  these  Ottomacs  were  the  veritable 
dirt-eating  Indians  mentioned  by  Humboldt.  There  is 
always  a  great  scarcity  of  food  in  the  wet  season,  and 
during  that  period  these  Indians  eat  incredible  quanti- 
ties of  clay,  taking  at  the  same  time  only  an  extremely 
small  amount  of  other  aliment.  Humboldt  has  spoken  at 
some  length  of  this  strange  habit  of  dirt-eating,  so  com- 
mon among  many  of  the  natives  of  tropical  regions.  He 
failed  to  find,  upon  analysis,  any  nutritious  elements  in  the 
clay,  and  refers  its  tendency  to  appease  the  sensation  of 
himger  to  the  secretion  of  the  gastric  fluids  of  the  stomach, 
excited  to  powerful  action  by  the  presence  of  the  earthy 
substance.  The  same  authority  also  refers  the  remarkable 
preservation  of  health  and  strength  during  protracted 
periods,  when  earth  constitutes  the  princii^al  aliment  taken 
by  the  Indians,  to  habit,  prolonged  through  successive 
generations.  "  Man  can  accustom  himself  to  an  extraor- 
dinary abstinence,  and  find  it  but  little  painful,  if  he  em- 
ploy tonic  or  stimulating  substances  (various  drugs,  small 
quantities  of  opium,  betel,  tobacco,  or  leaves  of  coca) ;  or 


126  UP  THE   OrjNOCO. 

if  he  supply  his  stomach,  from  time  to  time,  Avith  earthy 
insipid  substances,  that  are  not  in  themselves  fit  for  nutri- 
tion." *  This  habit  of  eating  dirt  is  prevalent  among  the 
Indians  of  Brazil,  and  vre  learned  from  foreign  residents 
upon  the  Marauon  that  their  children  evinced  a  morbid 
appetite  for  earths,  that  they  sought  gratification  in  swal- 
lowing large  lumps  of  innutritions  clay. 

Departing  from  this  Indian  encampment,  we  poled  to 
the  upper  end  of  the  playa,  Avhich  was  a  league  in  length, 
and  one-third  that  in  width,  and  there  encamped.  The 
heat  of  the  sun  was  most  intense,  and  the  plain  was  undu- 
lating, like  the  surface  of  disturbed  water,  from  the  eftects 
of  mirage,  and  every  object  about  us  appeared  to  be  ele- 
A'ated  and  dancing  in  the  air.  This  singular  atmospheric 
phenomenon,  occasioned  by  the  refraction  and  reflection 
of  light  in  traversing  the  strata  of  rarefied  air  next  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth,  is  common  upon  the  arid  j^layas  of  the 
Orinoco.  AYe  sometimes  saw  the  long  line  of  barren  coast 
apparently  in  greater  agitation  than  the  river  upon  which 
we  were  sailing  ;  but,  approaching,  instead  of  floating  into 
rougher  water,  we  would  land  upon  a  sandy,  burning 
shore. 

We  roamed  the  playa  in  search  of  turtles'  eggs,  but 
found  only  a  few,  which  were  those  of  the  terecai ;  it  unfor- 
tunately not  being  the  season  for  the  great  harvest  of  eggs, 
which  occurs  in  the  months  of  April  and  May.  From  the 
natives,  however,  we  gathered  many  interesting  facts  re- 
specting the  "  egg -harvest,"  and  by  them  were  made 
acquainted  with  the  habits  of  this  reptile,  which  is  found 
in  such  prodigious  numbers  upon  the  Orinoco,  between 
the  cataracts  and  the  mouth  of  the  Apure.  To  Paez,  and 
other  traA'ellers  on  the  Orinoco,  we  are  also  indebted  for 
much  valuable  information  concerning  this  animal.  The 
great  turtle,  called  by  the  Spaniards  tortuga,  and  by  the 
*  "  Humboldt's  Travels,"  vol.  ii.,  p.  502. 


IIAEVEST   OF  TUKTLES'   EGGS.  127 

Indians  arraxi^  tlie  lar2:est  and  by  fai*  the  most  abundant 
of  the  tortoises  inhabiting  the  Orinoco,  is  about  two  feet 
in  length,  and  weighs  fifty  pounds.  It  commences  to 
deposit  its  eggs  in  the  month  of  February,  when  the  river 
has  fallen  to  its  lowest  level,  leaving  dry  the  playas,  or 
sand-bars.  Nights  are  selected  for  the  laying,  when  the 
tortuga  crawls  upon  the  beach,  excavating  with  its  hind- 
flappers  a  hole  in  which  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  eggs  are  deposited.  It  then  refills  the  pit  with  sand, 
and  smooths  it  over  so  as  to  obliterate  all  traces  of  its 
work.  The  parent  then  retires  to  the  water,  leaving  her 
eijijs  to  the  fostering:  influence  of  the  sun.  During  the 
height  of  the  laying  season,  the  gathering  of  turtles  is  so 
great,  says  Father  Gumilla,  "  that  the  multitudes  already 
out  prevent  the  passage  of  still  greater  numbers,  which, 
with  heads  above  water,  are  waiting  a  chance  to  pass  on." 
Scarcely  has  the  laying  com.menced  before  the  Indians 
begin  their  preparations  for  gathering  the  eggs.  To  de- 
termine the  limits  of  a  stratum  of  eggs,  or  to  discover 
scattering  nests  in  the  playas,  the  Indian  uses  a  pole,  on 
thrusting  which  into  the  sand,  a  sudden  yielding  denotes 
the  presence  of  the  sough t-for  treasure.  Where  the  tortugas 
have  frequented  the  most,  the  beach  is  one  vast  layer  of 
eggs ;  for  the  turtles,  in  their  zeal  to  make  their  deposits, 
are  regardless  of  the  rights  of  others,  one  destroying  the 
nest  of  another,  and  scattering  its  contents  in  every  direc- 
tion, until  the  sand  becomes  literally  filled  with  eggs  to 
the  average  depth,  according  to  Humboldt,  of  three  feet. 
The  eggs  are  sjiheiucal,  about  one  and  a  quarter  inch  in 
diameter,  with  a  calcareous  shell,  that  is  soft  and  coria- 
ceous. The  yolk  floats  in  oil  instead  of  in  albumen,  which 
gives  the  eggs  their  value.  The  manner  of  procuring  the 
oil  is  to  place  the  eggs  in  canoes  or  large  wooden  trouglis, 
where  they  are  broken  by  sticks,  or  trodden  by  children, 
when  water  is  added,  and  the  wdiole  left  exposed  to  the 


128  UP  THE  OKINOCO. 

sun.  The  oleaginous  portion,  rising  to  the  surface,  is 
removed  and  clarified  by  boiling,  forming  the  article  so 
well  known  in  the  country  as  manteca  de  tortuga,  or  turtle- 
butter.  Angostura  is  the  principal  market  for  this  animal 
product,  and  traders  are  upon  the  ground  at  the  season  of 
the  harvest,  to  pui'chase  from  the  Indians  the  results  of 
their  labors. 

It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  how  great  is  the  destruction 
of  these  useful  creatures  by  their  various  enemies.  Even 
thousands  of  those  that  hatch  are  destroyed  before  reach- 
ing tlieir  natural  element,  falling  a  prey  to  vultures  and 
other  carnivorous  birds,  jaguars,  and  the  Indians,  who  es- 
teem them  a  delicious  morsel,  eating  them  shell  and  all. 
N"or  are  they  free  from  capture  when  they  have  entered 
the  water ;  for  caimans  and  ravenous  fishes  there  await 
them  ;  still,  they  perpetuate  their  race  in  such  untold 
thousands,  that,  as  Father  Gumilla  has  observed,  "  it  would 
be  as  difticult  to  count  the  sands  of  the  extensive  banks 
of  the  Orinoco  as  to  compute  the  immense  number  of 
turtles  which  it  harbors  on  its  borders,  and  in  the  depths 
of  its  current.  .  .  .  Notwithstanding  the  size  of  the  Ori- 
noco River,  it  is  the  opinion  of  the  experts  of  that  coun- 
try that,  were  it  not  for  this  extraordinary  consumption 
of  turtles  and  their  eggs,  the  increase  of  these  animals  in 
the  river  would  be  such  as  to  render  it  unnavigable ;  for 
boats  would  find  it  impossible  to  make  way  through  the 
immense  number  of  turtles  which  would  ajspear,  were  all 
these  eggs  to  be  hatched."  What  is  also  an  astonishing 
fact  in  connection  with  these  reptiles  is,  the  number  of 
years'  eggs  each  contains.  There  are  the  eggs  fully  formed 
for  deposit,  then  those  still  smaller  for  the  next  year,  and 
so  on,  diminishing  in  size  for  each  succeeding  issue  ;  and, 
says  the  pious  Father  Gumilla,  "  God  only  knows  for  how 
many  years  these  creatures  are  endowed  with  similar  re- 
ceptacles of  life  in  embryo." 


CAMP  OF  INDIANS.  129 

Besides  the  tortuga,  there  are  several  other  species  of 
tortoises  inhabiting  the  Orinoco  and  its  tributaries,  the 
largest  of  which  is  the  terecai,  weighing  about  twenty-five 
pounds.  Gobesonas,  galapagos,  and  the  little  chipiries^ 
scarcely  five  pounds  in  weight,  also  abound,  especially 
in  the  upper  waters  of  the  Orinoco  and  Rio  Negro.  The 
large  tortuga  is  not  found  above  the  cataracts  of  those 
rivers ;  not  that  these  would  be  barriers  to  its  ascent,  but 
probably  because  of  the  absence  of  extensive  beaches,  the 
favorite  and  essential  haunts  for  the  deposit  of  its  eggs. 
Turtles  are,  ecclesiastically,  classed  the  same  as  fishes, 
being  cold-blooded  animals,  and  their  flesh  is  allowed  to 
be  eaten  during  Lent  and  on  other  fast-days  of  the  Church. 

The  second  night  from  Urbana,  spent  upon  a  playa,  we 
experienced  a  severe  storm,  which  nearly  caused  us  the 
loss  of  our  buco.  It  shipped  the  water  to  such  a  degree, 
that  we  were  obliged  to  land  every  thing  from  the  boat. 
The  tempest  subsiding,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
we  reembarked,  that  we  might  have  the  benefit  of  the  fa- 
vorable breeze  then  blowing.  As  daylight  came,  the  wind 
died  away,  and  the  men  took  to  their  paddles.  During 
the  forenoon  we  passed  upon  our  right  Sinaruco,  a  stream 
of  considerable  dimensions  ;  and  the  outlets  of  Suapure 
and  Caripo  to  our  left.  To  avoid  the  strong  current  we 
kept  close  in  to  shore,  which  afforded  us  frequent  views  of 
groups  of  audacious  monkeys  that  sat  among  the  branches 
of  the  trees,  seemingly  indifferent  to  our  passing. 

It  was  late  in  the  evening  when  we  stopped  at  a  playa 
upon  which  was  a  camp  of  Indians  similar  to  those  before 
mentioned.  The  women  were  huddled  in  the  small,  Hot- 
tentot huts,  with  their  heads  and  feet  protruding  from  all 
sides,  while  their  naked  lords  lay  stretched  in  the  sand 
without.  Their  language,  like  that  of  Indian  tribes  gener- 
ally, we  found  to  be  exceedingly  simple  and  curious,  con- 
sisting more  in  signs  than  verbal  utterances.    "We  observed 


130  UP  THE  OKINOCO. 

that  iu  convoi'sation,  even  among  themselves,  they  desig- 
nated the  time  of  day  at  which  any  event  would  occur  by 
simply  pointing  toward  the  heavens ;  to  denote  noon,  the 
linger  Avas  directed  toward  the  zenith ;  to  express  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  hand  would  be  inclined  tow- 
ard the  Avest  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  The  dis- 
persion of  gathered  clouds  threatening  rain  Avas  indicated 
by  a  broad  sweep  of  the  hand  from  the  mouth  outward, 
the  movement  being  accompanied  with  an  expulsion  of 
the  breath.  From  this  was  to  be  understood  that  a  wind 
would  arise,  the  force  of  which  was  to  be  inferred  from 
the  strength  of  the  breath  ;  and  the  direction  in  Avhich  the 
clouds  would  be  driven  was  shown  by  the  movement  of 
the  arm. 

In  the  morning,  some  time  before  day,  we  departed 
from  these  children  of  the  forest,  envying  them  not  their 
simple  and  untoilsome  life.  Toward  noon  we  came  upon 
another  small  company  of  the  same  tribe,  who  were  roast- 
ing whole,  with  simply  the  entrails  removed,  two  large 
chiquires,  or  water-hogs,  the  stench  of  which  kept  us  at  a 
respectful  distance.  The  Lidians  Avere  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows,  and  the  faces  of  their  naked  persons  were 
painted  red  with  the  coloring  matter  extracted  from  the 
crushed  seeds  of  annotto  [Bixa  orellana).  Bargaining 
Avith  them  for  tortugas,  which  were  to  be  brought  lis  at 
Santa  Barbara,  Avliere  we  proposed  remaining  a  fcAV  days, 
Ave  hastened  from  the  spot,  glad  to  escape  from  the  odor 
of  their  savory  chiquires. 

At  1  p.  M.  Ave  reached  the  above-mentioned  tOAvn, 
where,  upon  the  beach,  we  partook  of  our  first  meal  for 
the  day  ;  regaling  ourseU'^es  on  monkey-steak,  Avhich  we 
had  secured  with  our  guns  by  the  Avay.  This  Spanish 
pueblo^  or  town,  Avas  a  collection  of  a  dozen  houses  scat- 
tered along  the  river  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  A  strip 
of  land,  fifty  yards  in  breadth,  had  been  cleared  from  the 


SANTA  BAEBAEA.  131 

virgin  forest,  and  was  waving  with  banana*  trees — the 
most  useful  plant  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  tropics.  Like 
the  cereals  of  northern  latitudes,  it  has  accompanied  man 
at  every  step  of  his  progress  in  these  southern  climes,  and 
every  cottage  rests  beneath  the  shade  of  its  banana-trees. 
It  is  a  herbaceous  plant,  growing  almost  spontaneously, 
with  a  stem  that  attains  a  height  of  ten  to  twelve  feet, 
crowned  by  a  cluster  of  silky,  shining  leaves,  six  to  eight 
feet  long,  and  a  foot  in  width.  These  are  extremely  deli- 
cate and  easily  torn  transversely  by  the  winds,  so  as  to 
hang  in  narrow  strips  from  the  midvein,  resembling  pinnate 
leaves.  The  plant,  which  comes  to  maturity  in  about 
twelve  months,  produces  a  single  cluster  of  fiiiit,  when 
the  stem  dies  and  new  shoots  start  from  its  base,  several 
of  which  are  allowed  to  grow,  so  that  banana-trees  are 
generally  in  clusters,  upon  some  of  which  fruit  may  always 
be  found.  No  other  plant  yields  so  great  an  amount  of 
nutriment  from  the  same  extent  of  soil,  producing,  accord- 
ing to  the  estimate  of  Humboldt,  twenty  times  as  much 
as  corn,  forty-four  that  of  potatoes,  and  one  hundred  and 
thirty-three  times  more  than  wheat. 

At  Santa  Barbara  we  received  our  first  introduction  to 
gnats  {simulium),  which  were  afterward  such  a  source  of 
annoyance  as  we  ascended  the  cataracts  of  the  Orinoco. 
They  are  known  to  the  Spaniards  by  the  name  of  mosqui- 
toes (diminutive  flies),  while  our  insects  of  that  name 
{ctclex)  are  called  by  them  sancudos,  signifying  long- 
legged.  The  sting  of  these  minute  insects  is  painful,  and 
leaves  a  dark  spot,  caused  by  the  coagulation  of  blood  be- 
neath the  skin  where  the  proboscis  pierces.  These  marks 
are  exceedingly  lasting :  we  retained  traces  of  them  for 

*  We  use  the  word  banana  popularly  as  a  generic  term  including 
several  species :  the  plantain  {Musa  paradisiasa),  dorainico  (J/,  regia)^ 
caraburi  (J/,  rosacea),  are  the  species  most  generally  cultivated. 


132  UP  THE  OKINOCO. 

montlis  after  wc  had  left  the  regions  infested  by  these  in- 
sects. 

On  our  second  day  at  this  pneblo,  the  Indians  we  had 
met  down  the  river,  accompanied  by  many  others  of  their 
tribe,  arrived,  bringing  with  them  the  promised  turtles. 
Their  chief,  who  was  among  the  number,  and  who  was 
distinguished  by  no  outer  adornment,  observing  us  for  a 
while  very  intently,  as  we  were  engaged  in  removing,  for 
preservation,  the  beautiful  plumage  of  a  guacamaya,  inno- 
cently asked  for  the  long  red  tail,  which  seemed  particu- 
larly to  have  taken  his  fancy.  Without  doubt  it  would 
have  afforded  him  no  little  gratification  to  have  possessed 
it  for  his  pow-wow  embellishments  ;  but,  as  its  removal 
was  incompatible  with  the  object  for  which  we  desired  the 
specimen,  we  felt  compelled  to  refuse  the  request,  as  harsh 
as  it  might  seem  to  the  old  chief,  who  turned  away  like 
a  disappointed  child  denied  some  cherished  plaything. 
There  is  something  impressive  in  the  infantine  expression 
and  primitive  simj)licity  of  the  wild  Indians  of  the  Ori- 
noco and  Amazons.  Their  lives  are  passed  with  no  higher 
aim  than  simply  maintaining  an  existence.  They  seem  to 
entertain  no  system  of  belief  that  can  be  called  religion, 
and  appear  to  have  no  knowledge  of  a  Supreme  Being. 
Most  of  the  tribes  are  tractable,  peaceful,  and  quietly 
disposed ;  and,  where  civilization,  so  called,  has  made  no 
encroachments  among  them,  instances  of  gross  vice  and 
immorality  are  unfrequent. 

After  three  days'  delay  at  Santa  Barbara,  we  resumed 
our  voyage.  Some  tAvo  hixndred  j^ounds  of  jerked  beef, 
which  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  secure,  had  been  added 
to  our  supplies,  and  lay  piled  in  a  heap  in  the  bow  of  the 
boat,  covered  with  banana-leaves  to  keep  off  the  sun,  and 
the  feet  of  the  natives,  who  were  continually  treading 
over  it.  Our  crew  had  also  been  strengthened  by  two 
additional  men  for  ascending  the  cataracts.     To  our  left 


FEATUKES   OF   THE   RIVER.  133 

were-brokcn  ranges,  which  in  places  approached  the  river, 
and  in  others  receded  to  a  distance  ;  they  were  not  Avholly 
lost  sight  of  until  we  passed  the  upper  rapids  of  May- 
jjures  ;  the  vrestern  shore  was  bordered  with  forest  no- 
where of  any  great  depth,  beyond  which  spread  out  tlie 
grass-covered  plains  of  the  Rio  Meta.  Occasionally  we 
landed  to  jirocure  some  beautiful  bird  we  saw  through  the 
branches  of  the  trees,  or  to  secure  game  for  our  commis- 
sary department ;  but  it  was  not  good  hunting-ground,  at 
least,  so  we  thought,  after  having  crossed  the  plains  of 
Apure  swarming  with  animated  life.  Evidences  of  deer 
were  to  be  seen  in  the  piles  of  horns  around  every  hut. 
They  were  abundant  on  the  savannas,  but  lack  of  time 
prevented  our  making  any  extended  expedition  for  them. 
We  missed  our  noisy  friends,  the  guacamayas  ;  and  the 
shrill  cries  of  herons,  flamingoes,  and  other  water-birds, 
wei'e  seldom  heard.  Pheasants  and  wild-turkeys  were 
more  abundant,  but  difficult  to  obtain,  from  their  extreme 
shyness.  The  height  of  the  trees  rendered  our  shot-guns 
useless,  and  only  with  the  rifle-ball  could  an  object  be 
reached  in  the  top  of  the  forest  giants. 

At  mid-day  we  landed  at  a  deserted  hut,  where  a  sugar- 
cane grove  had  fallen  beneath  the  tread  of  ravenous  chi- 
quires  and  prowling  jaguars  ;  but  from  banana-trees,  which 
had  been  undisturbed,  we  gathered  some  fine  bunches  of 
fruit  to  cai-ry  with  us.  Opposite  us,  upon  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  river,  rose  a  granitic  mountain,  whose  naked 
declivity  descended  to  the  water's  edge.  Upon  its  bald 
top  a  fort  was  erected  by  the  Jesuits,  and  occupied  by 
them  as  a  military  post ;  during  the  war  for  independence 
it  served  as  a  fortress  to  the  Spaniards,  who  were  com- 
pelled to  evacuate  it,  after  a  siege  of  four  days,  by  the 
Venezuelian  forces.  The  place,  although  nothing  is  now 
seen  but  the  rock,  still  bears  the  name,  "  El  Castillo  de  los 
Espaiioles  " — the  castle  of  the  Spaniards.     In  the  face  of 


134  tJP  THE  OEINOCO. 

an  adjoining  cliff,  near  its  summit,  we  had  pointed  out  to 
us  the  entrance  of  a  dark  cavern  ;  its  height  up  the  rocky 
"wall  renders  it  inaccessible,  but,  according  to  a  legend, 
as  given  us  by  our  patron,  a  passage  to  it  was  discovered 
by  a  padre,  who  was  accustomed  to  resort  thither.  He 
died  without  divulging  the  mystic  way  to  the  gloomy  re- 
cess ;  and  it  is  said  that  his  spirit  now  frequents  the  place. 
The  forbidding  aspect  of  the  jagged  cliff  and  its  wild  sur- 
roundings make  it  appear  as  though  it  might,  indeed,  be 
a  favorite  haunt  for  wandering  spirits. 

Not  far  from  here  a  violent  tempest  struck  our  vessel, 
and  produced  a  heavy  sea  that  nearly  shipwrecked  us  be- 
fore we  could  gain  the  shore,  which  being  reached,  we 
hastily  unloaded  our  stores,  for  our  buco  seemed  destined 
to  be  dashed  to  pieces,  tlie  high  bank  preventing  us  from 
drawing  it  upon  land.  The  peaks  of  the  granitic  hills 
were  wrapped  in  one  vivid  sheet  of  flame,  while  peals  of 
thunder,  of  a  nature  well  calculated  to  disturb  the  rest  of 
the  good  jjadre,  rattled  along  the  cliffs. 

Upon  the  following  day  we  passed  without  difficulty 
the  Maudal  de  Marimara.  Here  upon  the  east  bank  rises 
a  solid  mountain  of  granite,  called  Pledra  de  3farimara, 
its  river-front  abrupt  and  without  a  trace  of  soil.  Sepa- 
rated from  this  huge  rock  by  a  beautiful  little  inlet  upon 
the  south  is  another  granitic  pile,  which  bears  the  name 
of  La  Piedra  del  Zamuro,  the  rock  of  the  zamuro.*  Upon 
its  walls  we  could  distinctly  trace  the  high-water  marks, 
showing  that  the  river  had  fallen  sixteen  feet,  about  half 
its  usual  rise.  Upon  the  oj^jDosite  side  of  the  river  was 
the  immense  rock,  Piedra  del  Tlgre,  which,  sloping  up 
gradually  from  the  stream,  jiresented  a  favorable  place  for 
refection  and  rest,  and  accordingly  we  drew  to  shore. 
There  is  a  singular  phenomenon  connected  with  these  rocks 
of  Piedra  del  Tlgre^  which  is  also  peculiar  to  others  upon 

*  Cathartes  atratus. 


THE  EAUDAL  DE  CARIBEN.  135 

the  Middle  Orinoco,  By  putting  our  ears  close  to  their 
surface  we  were  able  to  detect  low,  musical  tones,  which 
our  guides  observed  were  more  audible  in  the  early  morn- 
ing. The  granite  is  split  with  deep  crevices,  that  seem  to 
give  emission  to  these  mysterious  sounds.  Humboldt  says 
that  he  never  himself  heard  these  musical  tones,  but,  re- 
lying i;pon  trustwoi'thy  information  as  to  the  reality  of 
this  phenomenon,  gives  the  following  explanation  of  the 
cause  :  "  It  may  easily  be  conceived  that  the  difference  of 
temj^erature  between  the  subterranean  and  external  air 
attains  its  maximum  about  sunrise,  or  at  that  moment 
which  is  at  the  same  time  farthest  from  the  period  of  the 
maximum  of  the  heat  of  the  preceding  day.  May  not 
these  organ-like  sounds,  which  are  heard  when  a  person 
lays  his  ear  in  contact  with  the  stone,  be  the  effect  of  a 
current  of  air  that  issues  out  through  the  crevices?  Does 
not  the  impulse  of  the  air,  against  the  elastic  spangles  of 
mica  that  intercept  the  crevices,  contribute  to  modify  the 
sounds  ?  " 

By  noon  of  the  18th  we  reached  the  liaiidal  de  Cariben, 
where  we  encountered  cataracts  that  could  not  be  passed 
Avith  the  paddle.  The  river  was  blocked  with  gi-eat  masses 
of  granite,  while  huge  bowlders  strewed  the  shore,  some 
resting  far  back  from  the  stream,  and  often  nicely  poised 
one  upon  another.  Traces  of  ancient  water-levels  high 
up  on  the  walls,  which  in  places  enclose  the  river,  point 
unmistakably  to  the  time  when  the  Orinoco  was  a  mighty 
stream,  rolling  its  volume  across  the  continent  like  an 
ocean,  but  now  reduced  to  the  comparatively  little  rivulet 
that  courses  through  the  bed  of  the  former  channel.  In 
those  periods  of  greater  floods  these  bowlder-like  masses, 
now  at  a  distance  from  the  river,  were  separated  by  de- 
stroying forces  from  the  rock  upon  which  they  rest,  and 
by  the  erosive  agency  of  the  waters  were  worn  and  left 
in  their  present  isolated  and  often  strange  positions.     In 


136  UP  THE  ORINOCO. 

the  stream  and  along  its  borders,  which  are  submerged 
during  the  annual  swelling  of  the  river,  we  often  saw  what 
might  be  termed  the  progressive  formation  of  these  gra- 
nitic bowlders.  The  upper  stratum,  several  feet  in  thick- 
ness, of  a  flat  rock,  would  be  separated  into  huge  frag- 
ments by  decomposition.  Frequently  the  blocks  would 
be  ai-ranged  in  a  row,  longitudinally  with  the  stream,  with 
the  upper  one,  fi-om  being  most  exposed  to  the  action  of 
the  curi-ent,  worn  into  a  perfect  bowlder ;  the  next  in  order 
exhibiting  not  so  much  the  eflects  of  the  erosive  element ; 
the  third  still  less ;  and  so  on  diminishing  until,  before  the 
last  was  reached,  no  change  was  perceptible,  the  rock 
being  simply  divided  into  sections.  Should  all  but  the 
first  be  removed,  it  would  scarcely  be  conceived  that  the 
isolated  bowlder  was  hewn  from  the  rock  upon  which  it 
stands,  but  rather  that  it  had  been  deposited  there  by 

some  external  force. 

We  p,scended  the  Randal  de  Carihen  by  towing ;  the 
current  making  with  violence  through  the  narrow  channels 
found  by  the  rocks  that  filled  the  bed  of  the  stream.  A 
mile  or  more  to  the  west  of  the  river,  across  a  treeless  and 
sunburnt  plain,  is  the  little  village  which  bears  the  name 
of  the  rapids.  At  5  p.  m.  we  were  in  front  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Rio  Meta,  next  to  the  Guaviare,  the  lai-gest  tribu- 
tary of  the  Orinoco.  Canoes  and  lanchas  ascend  this 
stream,  penetrating  as  far  as  the  base  of  the  Andes,  and 
by  an  overland  journey  of  about  twenty  leagues  the  trav- 
eller reaches  Bogota,  the  capital  of  Colombia.  Its  banks 
are  infested  with  the  Guahibos,  a  warlike  race  of  savages, 
who  are  a  constant  source  of  terror  to  the  voyager  on 
those  waters.  They  also  inhabit  the  west  bank  of  the 
Orinoco  as  far  as  the  Great  Cataracts.  Unlike  most  of 
the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Orinoco,  who  are  peaceably  in- 
clined, and  follow  the  tillage  of  the  soil,  cultivating  the 
banana,  yuca,  and   sugar-cane,  the   Guahibos  lead  a  no- 


A  WILD   SCENE.  I37 

madic  life,  deriving  their  means  of  subsistence  from  the 
chase  and  depredatory  excursions  upon  the  neighboring 
agricultural  tribes. 

Opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Meta,  and  near  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Orinoco,  rises  a  large  rock  called  Piedra  de  la 
Paciencia,  the  stone  of  patience,  from  the  difficulty  boats 
experience  in  making  its  passage.  The  height  and  steep- 
ness of  the  cliffs,  upon  either  side  of  the  channel  that  must 
be  made,  prevent  towing,  and  render  it  necessary  to  stem 
the  powerful  current  with  the  paddles.  We  found  occasion 
to  call  into  requisition  an  ixnusual  amount  of  "  paciencia," 
but,  after  a  severe  pull,  being  swept  back  each  moment 
almost  as  much  as  we  ascended,  we  at  length  moored 
safely  above.  We  spent  the  night  upon  the  rocks,  spread- 
ing our  blankets  beneath  us,  which  relieved  in  a  degree 
their  hardness,  but  not  their  heat,  Avhich  they  receive 
during  the  day  and  retain  with  apparently  little  loss 
through  a  large  portion  of  the  night. 

Three  hours  before  daylight  we  embarked,  in  order  to 
pass  the  Paudalde  Tabaja  before  night.  The  wind  rising 
by  9  A.  M.,  we  were  enabled  to  use  our  sail  for  the  first  time 
in  many  days.  At  noon  we  halted  lapon  the  right  bank,  where 
a  narrow  belt  of  woodland  bordered  the  river.  The  coun- 
try to  the  eastward  presented  a  rocky  and  desert  waste, 
filled  with  jungles — fit  haunts  for  jaguars  and  venomous 
serpents.  A  wilder  scene  we  found  noAvhere  in  oiir  wan- 
derings ;  and  with  no  little  apprehension  we  roamed  over 
the  place  in  search  of  the  few  plants  which  clung  to  the 
jagged  cliffs,  or  sprang  up  in  the  deep  morasses.  We 
observed  with  interest  the  melo  cactus,  which  found  a 
genial  home  upon  these  burning  rocks.  It  is  of  a  globular 
shape,  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  and  covered 
with  thorns  that  make  it  dangerous  to  disturb.  The  juice 
contained  within  its  prickly  shell  tempts  the  thirsty  animal 
of  the  sun-parched  plains,  which,  it  is  said,  carefully  pene- 


138  UP  THE  OKINOCO. 

trates  with  his  hoof  to  the  hidden  beverage.  Thus  Xatiire 
in  times  of  rain  stores  \ip  within  this  humble  plant  the 
nourishment  it  needs  for  itself  durhig  the  long  period  of 
drought,  and  which  also  serves  to  quench  the  thirst  of  the 
herds  that  roam  the  savannas. 

A  short  distance  farther  on  and  we  came  to  the  licmdal 
de  Atabaja,  Avhere,  half  an  hour  was  consumed  in  the  pas- 
sage, when  we  turned  into  a  small  creek  to  seek  shelter 
from  the  heat  of  the  mid-day  sun.  Our  boat  had  scarcely- 
touched  the  bank  before  the  ominous  cry  of  "  El  tigre ! 
el  tigre ! "  rose  from  our  natives,  who  were  rushing  fran- 
tically about.  With  our  rifles  we  hastened  upon  the  shore, 
but  looked  in  vain  for  some  huge  jaguar  among  the  tree- 
tops,  whither  our  attention  was  directed.  The  creature 
responsible  for  the  disturbance  proved  to  be  a  venomous 
serpent  whose  long,  slim  body  was  as  sj^otted  as  the  animal 
whose  name  it  bore. 

The  night  of  the  19tli  was  jiassed  upon  a  rock,  where 
bats  took  the  place  of  sancudos  in  disturbing  our  slumbers. 
These  filled  the  crevices  and  lay  in  scores  beneath  every 
bowlder.  As  soon  as  darkness  invited  them  from  their 
hiding-places,  they  poured  out  in  hundreds,  and  made  night 
hideous  with  their  screeching.  We  had  scarcely  composed 
ourselves,  before  a  cry  from  our  Indian  guide  told  that  he 
had  been  made  a  victim  by  one  of  these  creatures,  which 
h.ad  taken  a  large  mouthful  at  the  expense  of  one  of  the 
poor  fellow's  toes.  Presently  another,  and  soon  a  third 
one  of  our  natives  received  similar  visits,  when  we  deemed 
it  advisable  to  protect  our  own  pedal  appendages,  which 
w^ere  exposed,  as  w'e  had  other  use  for  them  than  feeding 
ugly  bats.  The  nose  seems  also  to  oiler  them  particular 
attractions  ;  but  we,  being  especially  opposed  to  molesta- 
tion at  that  point,  rolled  ourselves  in  our  blankets  cap-a- 
2)ie  /  but  the  heat  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  still  hotter 
rocks  beneath,  led  us  to  abandon  the  experiment,  and  very 


EATS  AND  OTHER  ANNOYANCES.         139 

resignedly  to  offer  ourselves  as  their  prey.  But,  while 
exhibiting  a  strong  predilection  for  our  natives,  they  left 
us  unmolested.  These  carnivorous  and  sanguineous  crea- 
tures seem  to  show  a  great  partiality  for  some  persons, 
paying  them  their  nightly  respects,  while  others  are  en- 
tirely free  from  their  molestations.  With  the  great  vam- 
pire-bat, which  has  been  so  often  referred  to  by  travellers 
in  the  tropics  as  such  a  formidable  enemy,  we  never  had 
any  personal  experience.  They,  however,  abound,  to  the 
terror  of  both  man  and  beast.  Differing  from  some  of  the 
smaller  species  we  have  mentioned,  they  are  contented 
with  simply  taking  the  blood  of  their  victim,  which  they 
extract  in  such  profuse  quantities  that  it  is  hazardous  to 
sleep  in  the  open  air  where  one  is  exposed  to  their  attacks. 
The  danger  to  be  aj)prehended  from  tliese  winged  demons 
is  the  greater,  because  they  inflict  so  little  pain  in  their 
operations  that  the  person  or  animal  is  not  aroused  from 
slumber.  Making  a  minute  puncture,  they  drain  by  suc- 
tion the  blood  from  their  victim,  while  lulling  him  into 
sounder  repose  with  the  noiseless  fanning  of  their  wings. 
It  is  a  disputed  point  as  to  the  manner  in  which  the  bat 
makes  the  incision ;  whether  with  its  tongue,  with  the 
shai*p  nail  of  its  thumb,  or  by  boring  with  one  of  its  long 
canine  teeth  by  flying  around  in  a  circle.  The  wound, 
although  exceedingly  small,  bleeds  profusely;  and  the 
person,  upon  awakening,  will  find  himself  covered  with 
the  flowing  blood. 

Above  the  Raudal  de  Atabaja,  the  river,  which  below 
is  contracted  and  encumbered  with  rocks,  again  broadens, 
and  is  filled  with  sandy  shoals  and  picturesque  islands. 
The  wooded  banks,  the  lowest  we  had  seen  on  the  Ori- 
noco, were  often  overflowed,  leaving  dry  immense  playas, 
which,  when  connected  with  the  shore,  obliged  us  to  go  far 
out  into  the  stream.  Not  unfrequently  our  buco  ran 
aground,  when  our  natives,  springing  into  the  water,  would 


140  UP  THE  ORINOCO. 

push  us  oft'  into  deeper  sailing  ;  often  they  towed  the  boat 
along  for  miles  over  the  shallow  places,  as  a  relief  to  con- 
stant rowing.  The  heat  was  most  intense,  and  the  mos- 
quitoes increased  as  we  neared  the  Great  Cataracts.  We 
tried  covering  our  hands  and  faces  with  gloves  and  veils, 
but  the  heat  was  insupportable.  Expelling,  by  means  of 
smoke,  the  torments  from  beneath  our  carroza,  and  spread- 
ing a  blanket  over  the  entrance,  we  could  enjoy  a  few 
minutes'  repose ;  but  the  vertical  rays  of  the  sun  upon  our 
palm-leaf  thatch  would  soon  drive  us  to  the  external  air. 
The  little  caribe  fish  that  filled  the  river,  and  huge  caimans 
which  showed  their  scaly  backs  everywhere  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  prohibited  bathing,  that  would  have  af- 
forded so  refreshing  a  relief. 

The  night  of  the  20th  Avas  passed  upon  an  island  plaia 
in  the  middle  of  the  river,  whither  we  cai*ried  wood  in  our 
boat  for  a  fire.  Roving  bands  of  Guahibos  had  been  seen 
during  the  day  along  the  western  shore,  and  jaguars  were 
also  unpleasantly  abundant  on  this  portion  of  the  Orinoco. 
Having  no  particular  desire  to  encounter  either,  we  se- 
lected a  camping-ground  where  surprise  by  them  would 
be  more  diflicult  than  upon  the  main-land.  The  following 
night  we  passed  upon  a  rock,  and  early  upon  the  morning 
of  the  22d  of  November  we  arrived  at  the  far-famed  cata- 
racts of  the  Atures. 


''rliilif 


l!r!:!l,!^^ 


^^ 


#    \ 


'  ■■'    i'ss^illiiiil'':!!^^ 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE  GREAT  CATARACTS  OF  THE  ORINOCO. 

Grandeur  of  the  Kaiaids  of  Atures. — Passing  the  Cataracts.— Village  of 
Atures. — Weapons  of  the  Natives. — Sutfering  from  Insects. — Cave  of 
Ataruipe. — Beautiful  Palms. — Arrive  at  the  Eaudales  de  Maypures. — 
Magnificent  View  of  the  Cataracts. — Thanksgiving  Dinner. — Village 
of  Maypures. — Nature's  Chronometer. — Farewell  to  the  Orinoco. — At 
San  Fernando  de  Atabapo. 

The  Orinoco,  eight  hiuidred  miles  from  the  sea,  forcing 
its  way  through  a  granitic  range  of  the  Guiana  Mountains, 
forms  the  cataracts  of  Atures.  To  obtain  a  view  of  these 
rapids,  let  the  traveller  place  himself  on  the  summit  of 
overlooking  hills  which  rise  just  to  the  east  of  the  river, 
and  he  has  before  him  a  scene  that  is  stupendously  grand. 
Other  landscapes  may  be  viewed  and  forgotten ;  but  the 
majestic  ajipearance  of  the  rapids  of  the  Atures  leaves  an 
impression  that  will  never  fade  from  the  memory.  For 
more  than  a  league  the  river  is  broken  by  rajiids  and  filled 
with  huge  granitic  masses,  piled  on  one  another  in  endless 
confusion ;  while  islands,  clothed  with  crested  palm-trees 
and  beautiful  vegetation,  rise  above  the  whitened  waters. 
The  river  is  divided  by  these  enchanting  islets  into  numer- 
ous channels,  through  which  the  waters,  lashed  into  foam, 
tumble  with  frightful  violence,  breaking  with  deafening 
roar  upon  the  rocks.  At  the  season  of  the  greatest  rise  of 
the  Orinoco,  when  these  stones  and  crags  which  fill  the 


142  THE  GREAT   CATARACTS   OF  TtlE  ORINOCO. 

bed  of  the  cliannel  are  submerged  by  the  floods  that  pour 
their  impetuous  vohimes  down  this  inclined  plain,  the  as- 
pect of  the  river  must  be  grand  in  the  extreme.  The 
mountains  upon  the  west  of  the  cataracts  are  rugged  and 
barren,  and  closely  follow  the  river;  while  in  the  distance 
the  lofty  peak  of  Uniana,  three  thousand  feet  in  height, 
rises  like  a  huge  column  in  the  midst  of  the  plain.  East 
of  the  Atures  the  hills  are  Avooded,  and  bound  a  plain  a 
league  or  more  in  breadth,  strewed  with  great  bowlders, 
sometimes  heaped  in  huge,  irregular  masses,  with  here  and 
there  a  verdant  ravine  and  clump  of  trees  that  meet  the 
eye  as  it  wanders  over  this  wild  and  desolate  tract.  Upon 
the  isolated  peak,  from  whose  crest  v/e  take  our  view  of 
the  rapids,  are  the  remains  of  a  dike,  referred  to  in  a  previ- 
ous chapter,  which  runs  like  a  wall  up  the  steep  slope  of 
the  sierra.  The  summit  of  the  hill  is  also  mounted  by 
huge  bowlders  of  granite,  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
some  of  them  so  nicely  poised  and  i-esting  upon  each  other 
tAVO  and  three  in  height,  that  it  seems  as  though  they 
might  easily  be  pushed  down  into  the  river-channel. 

In  the  afternoon  we  started  with  our  natives  for  the 
village  of  Atures,  to  procure  a  inactico  to  aid  us  in  passing 
the  cataracts.  A  league  over  the  rocky  and  burning  plain 
brought  us  to  tlie  river  Cataniapo,  which  we  were  unable 
to  cross  ;  but  our  Indian  guide,  swimming  the  stream,  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  settlement,  returning  soon  with  the 
promise  of  assistance  on  the  morrow.  Retracing  our  steps, 
we  observed  fresh  tracks  of  tigers,  which  are  exceedingly 
numerous  in  the  wild  districts  about  the  Cataracts  of  the 
Orinoco,  That  we  were  unarmed,  with  the  prospect  of 
darkness  overtaking  us  before  we  could  reach  camp,  was 
by  no  means  a  comforting  reflection.  In  the  morning,  foot- 
prints of  tigers,  within  a  few  yards  of  where  we  had  slept 
in  our  hammocks  under  the  trees,  gave  evidence  of  theif 
visits  daring  the  night,  our  tires  having  been  suffered  to 
expire. 


VILLAGE  OF  ATUKES.  143 

Our  practico,  or  pilot,  arriving  from  the  village  by 
sunrise,  we  commenced  the  passage  of  the  rapids.  The 
river,  a  third  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  emerged  from  the 
first  line  of  obstructions  in  two  main  channels,  along  each 
of  which  rolled  a  tremendous  flood  over  the  stony  blocks 
that  filled  their  beds,  while  between  these  were  numerous 
small  openings  in  the  islands  and  rocks,  througli  which 
the  Avaters  poured  in  whirling  eddies  and  dangerous  whirl- 
pools, Lanchas,  or  large  canoes,  descending  in  time  of 
high  water — for  at  no  other  season  can  they  descend  the 
rapids — choose  the  large  channel  upon  the  west ;  but  no 
craft  can  ever  ascend  against  the  powerful  current  and 
heavy  breakers  of  this  river-torrent.  Plunging  into  the 
swift  stream,  we  pulled  over  to  one  of  the  small  channels, 
and  then  upon  an  island  landed  our  stores,  which  were 
carried  over  a  short  portage  to  where,  if  successful,  we 
would  again  embark.  Noav,  entering  the  rapids,  we  clam- 
ber over  the  huge  granitic  bowlders,  springing  from  rock 
to  rock,  pulling  our  boat  along  through  the  whirling 
waters  :  sometimes  a  pi'ojecting  point  must  be  reached ; 
when,  with  rope  in  hand,  a  native  plunges  into  the  river, 
but  often  the  bold  adventurer  is  borne  down  by  the  im- 
petuous torrent.  At  length,  after  several  unsuccessful 
attempts,  the  crag  is  reached;  he  is  joined  by  others,  and 
the  boat  is  hauled  up  past  the  obstruction.  But  now 
another  obstacle,  perhaps  more  difficult  and  dangerous 
slill,  presents  itself.  Some  climb  the  rocks,  while  others 
swim  the  breakers,  and  thus  from  crag  to  crag,  with  push- 
ing, pulling,  and  poling,  we  slowly  make  our  way  up  the 
cataracts.  At  length  a  cliff  lifts  its  bold  front  directly  in 
our  pathway,  beneath  whose  stony  masses  the  roaring 
waters  flow  in  subterranean  caverns.  Over  the  granitic 
pile  we  with  difficulty  drag  our  canoe,  when  the  first  line 
of  barriers  is  overcome,  and  we  float  into  smoother  water. 
Reloading  our  craft,  wc  pull  up,  through  verdant  and  pic- 


144  THE   GEE  AT   CATARACTS   OF  THE   OEINOCO. 

turesque  islands,  to  the  second  rocky  dike  that  spans  the 
river.  Our  baggage  and  supplies  are  to  be  carried  from 
here  over  a  portage  of  a  league  to  the  upper  limit  of  the 
rapids,  and  the  boat  to  be  dragged  up  through  the  rocky 
obstructions. 

The  village  of  Atures,  whither  we  now  directed  our 
course,  is  two  miles  distant  upon  the  plain,  or  one  below 
the  upper  terminus  of  the  portage.  The  heat  of  the  at- 
mosphere, augmented  by  reflection  from  the  stony  soil 
and  granitic  masses,  was  excessive  in  the  extreme.  Upon 
arriving  at  the  village,  our  Indian  guide,  who  had  carried 
our  papelon  in  a  banana-leaf  basket  upon  his  head,  pre- 
sented a  unique  appearance.  His  head  had  perforated  the 
mass,  which,  under  the  influence  of  the  hot  sun,  flowed  in 
streams  down  his  naked  person.  The  village  consisted  of 
six  inhabited  mud  huts,  a  little  chapel,  now  used  as  a  dor- 
mitory for  cows,  and  two  abandoned,  dilapidated  hovels, 
in  one  of  which  we  established  ourselves  for  the  time  we 
might  remain  at  the  Atures. 

Here  we  saw,  for  the  first  time,  that  curious  weapon, 
the  cerhatana,  or  blow-gun,  in  the  use  of  which  the  natives 
of  the  country  are  so  skilful.  It  is  made  of  a  light,  hol- 
low reed,  which  grows  in  abundance  in  the  forests  of  the 
Upper  Orinoco.  As  these  are  slender,  two,  and  sometimes 
throe,  of  difterent  sizes  are  taken,  so  that  they  can  be  in- 
serted one  into  the  ether.*  These  are  then  wound  with 
smooth,  black,  shining  bark,  which  gives  it  a  tasteful  ap- 
pearance. At  one  end  is  fitted  a  mouth-piece  of  horn,  and 
a  short  distance  from  it  a  projection  of  the  same  for  a 
sight.  The  whole,  when  completed,  is  ten  or  twelve  feet 
long.     The  arrow,  generally  made  from  the  leaf  of  a  palm, 

*"  The  blow-gun  of  the  Upper  Amazonian  Indians  is  constructed  of 
tv.'o  pieces  of  hard  wood,  generally  clionta-palm,  each  of  which  is  hol- 
lowed out,  then  the  tv.'0  united,  wound  with  bark,  and  coated  with  a 
resinous  substance. 


WEAPONS  OF  THE  NATIVES.  115 

is  the  size  of  a  common  straw,  and  a  foot  in  length.  One 
end  is  nicely  wound  with  the  light  cotton  of  the  ceiba-tree 
so  as  to  fill  exactly  the  tube  of  the  gun,  and  the  other  ex- 
tremity is  pointed  and  dipped  in  curare^  a  poison  distilled 
from  a  vine  of  the  forest.  So  powerful  is  this  venomous 
juice  that  it  will  kill  a  bird  almost  instantly,  and  the  large 
jaguar  succumbs  to  its  effects  in  a  space  of  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes.  The  flechetes,  as  the  little  missiles  are  called, 
can  be  propelled,  with  a  single  puif  of  breath,  through  the 
cerbatana  one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  with' 
the  greatest  accuracy.  The  quiver  is  twelve  or  fourteen 
inches  long,  beautifully  woven  from  fibres  of  the  palm- 
leaf,  the  lower  part  coated  with  a  resinaceous  substance 
obtained  from  a  forest-tree. 

Equipped  with  his  cerbatana  and  quiver  of  poisoned 
arrows,  the  Indian  goes  in  quest  of  game.  "  Silent  as 
midnight,"  quaintly  writes  Waterton,  "he  steals  under 
them,  and  so  cautiously  does  he  tread  the  ground,  that  the 
fallen  leaves  rustle  not  beneath  his  feet.  His  ears  are 
open  to  the  least  sound,  while  his  eye,  keen  as  that  of  the 
lynx,  is  employed  in  finding  out  the  game  in  the  thickest 
shade.  Often  he  imitates  their  cry,  and  decoys  them  from 
tree  to  tree,  till  they  are  within  range  of  his  tube.  Then 
taking  a  poison  arrow  from  his  quiver,  he  puts  it  in  the 
blow-pipe,  and  collects  his  breath  for  the  fatal  pufT.  Silent 
and  swift  the  arrow  flies,  and  seldom  fails  to  pierce  the 
object  at  which  it  is  sent."  The  flesh  of  game  thus  shot 
is  in  no  wise  injured  for  eating,  as  the  poison  can  be  taken 
internally  with  impunity.  In  its  preparation  the  Indians 
test  its  strength  by  tasting ;  but  care  must  be  observed 
that  the  skin  of  the  lijis  or  mouth  be  not  fractured  so  as 
to  bring  the  substance  into  contact  with  the  blood.  Salt 
is  an  antidote  for  the  poison,  and,  if  timely  employed, 
will  neutralize  its  deleterious  efiects.  When  the  Indian 
desires  to  capture  a  monkey  or  bird  alive,  he  uses  a  flechete 
7 


146         THE  GREAT  CATAEACTS  OF  THE  OEINOCO. 

anointed  with  diluted  curare,  and  instantly  ifpon  the  fall 
of  his  prize  fills  its  mouth  with  salt,  which  soon  restores 
the  animal  unharmed. 

The  manufacture  of  curare  is  known  to  hut  compara- 
tively few,  the  Indians  of  the  Cassiquiare  and  Upper  Rio 
Negro  being  the  principal  producers  for  all  the  neigh- 
boring regions.  The  virulent  principle  it  contains  is  ex- 
tracted from  the  bark  of  henjuco  de  mavacure  {Strychnos 
toxifera),  a  vine  abundant  in  the  forests  of  the  districts 
where  the  curare  is  made.  When  prepared,  it  has  the 
color  and  consistence  of  tar,  and  is  sold  in  small  cala- 
bashes at  an  exorbitant  price.  It  is  an  interesting  fact 
that  this  concentrated  juice  of  the  mavacure,  which  is  so 
deadly  when  introduced  into  the  circulation,  has  been 
found  to  be  a  specific  for  that  other  powerful  poison, 
strychnine,  whose  pernicious  effects  are  so  difficult  to 
counteract. 

The  other  weapons  of  the  natives,  besides  the  cerba- 
tana,  are  bows  and  arrows,  in  the  construction  of  which 
they  exhibit  no  little  taste  and  ingenuity.  The  bow  is 
generally  from  five  to  six  feet  long,  and  made  from  a  hard, 
black,  elastic  wood,  with  a  string  woven  from  the  fibres  of 
the  palm-leaf.  The  arrows,  from  five  to  seven  feet  in 
length,  consist  of  a  light  reed,  in  one  extremity  of  which 
is  inserted  a  head  about  a  foot  long,  made  of  hard  wood, 
with  the  point  dipped  in  curare ;  the  other  extremity  is 
winged  with  feathers  arranged  spirally  so  as  to  produce  a 
rotary  motion,  thus  exhibiting  an  acquaintance  with  prin- 
ciples applied  among  civilized  nations.  The  question  is 
naturally  suggested.  Is  this  contrivance,  for  giving  direct- 
ness and  effectiveness  to  missiles,  an  invention  of  civiliza- 
tion, or  must  it  be  recorded  as  an  achievement  of  barba- 
rism, developed  and  impi'oved  by  modern  genius  ?  The 
arrow  employed  for  the  capture  of  turtles,  during  the 
season  when  they  do  not  appear  upon  the  playas,  differs 


SUFFEEINGS  FEOM  INSECTS.  147 

from  the  above-described  in  Iiaving  a  barbed  iron  point 
fitting  loosely  in  the  shaft,  to  which  it  is  attached  by  a 
long  cord.  The  smooth,  hard  shell  of  the  turtle,  if  struck 
obliquely,  would  ward  off  the  arrow ;  the  hunter,  there- 
fore, calculates  his  distance,  and,  with  an  unerring  aim, 
sends  his  missile  into  the  air,  when,  describing  a  parabola, 
it  descends  with  force  and  pierces  the  back  of  the  victim 
Immediately  the  animal  dives,  carrying  with  him  the  iron 
point  fastened  in  his  coat  of  mail,  imreeving  the  string 
that  connects  it  to  the  shaft,  which  floats  upon  the  water, 
and  enables  the  Indian  to  regain  the  cord  and  secure  the 
turtle.  We  have  often  been  astonished  in  observing  at 
how  great  a  distance  the  keen  eye  of  the  Indian  will  de- 
tect an  object,  and  the  precision  with  which  he  will  send 
an  arrow,  apparently  drawn  at  a  venture. 

Kowhere  as  at  Atures  had  we  suffered  so  severely 
from  insects,  and  yet  we  were  told  that  the  climax  would 
not  be  reached  until  we  arrived  at  the  Maypures.  At 
early  dawn  the  mosquitoes  made  their  appearance,  nor  did 
they  disappear  till  the  shades  of  evening  invited  forth  the 
larger  insects,  the  sancudos,  which  fortunately  are  not  so 
abundant  in  this  season  at  Atures  as  they  are  during 
the  rainy  months,  when  they  swarm  in  clouds.  The  mos- 
quitoes seem  to  be  constant  throughout  the  year,  filling 
the  atmosphere  in  numbers  sufficient  to  dim  the  vision, 
"We  could  not  breathe  or  speak,  without  taking  in  these 
noxious  insects ;  they  gathered  in  our  eyes,  and  pierced 
every  exposed  part  of  our  persons.  Humboldt,  in  speak- 
ing of  these  districts,  says  :  "  The  lower  strata  of  air, 
from  the  surface  of  the  ground  to  the  height  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet,  are  absolutely  filled  with  venomous  insects. 
If,  in  an  obscure  spot,  for  instance  in  the  grottoes  of  the 
cataracts  formed  by  superincumbent  blocks  of  granite,  you 
direct  your  eyes  toward  the  opening  enlightened  by  the 
Bun,  you  see  clouds  of  m.osquitocs  more  or  less  thick.     At 


148  THE   GREAT   CAT AE ACTS   OF  THE  OEINOCO. 

the  mission  of  San  Borja,  the  suffering  from  mosquitoes  is 
greater  than  at  Caricliana ;  but  in  the  Raudales,  at  Atures, 
and,  above  all,  at  Maypures,  this  suffering  may  be  said  to 
attain  its  maximum.  I  doubt  whether  there  be  a  country 
upon  earth  where  man  is  exposed  to  more  ci-uol  torments 
in  the  rainy  season." 

On  oxir  second  evening  at  the  village  of  Atures,  we 
Avalked  to  the  river  to  see  how  our  boat  advanced  up  the 
cataracts.  Nine  men  had  been  employed  in  the  Avork,  and 
had  succeeded  in  bringing  it  through  the  rapids  to  where 
it  became  necessary  to  drag  it  some  distance  overland, 
by  putting  it  upon  rollers,  as  at  this  point  obstructions 
completely  filled  the  eastern  channel  of  the  river — the  one 
we  were  ascending.  The  rocks  exhibited  those  peculiar 
erosions,  called  "  pot-holes,"  twenty  or  more  feet  in  depth, 
and  from  three  to  five  feet  in  diameter ;  while  at  their 
bottom  were  small  stones  and  quartz-gravel,  which,  given 
a  revolving  motion  by  the  action  of  the  water,  had  slowly 
drilled  themselves  tlirough  the  solid  rock.  The  primitive 
rock  of  the  Great  Cataracts  is  a  coarse-grained  granite, 
often  containing  hornblende  ;  yet  it  does  not  constitute 
true  syenite.  We  observed  traces  of  black  coating  upon 
the  stones  wherever  they  are  washed  by  the  water,  such 
as  excited  the  interest  of  Humboldt ;  yet  they  did  not 
exhibit  that  glistening,  metallic  appearance  which  that 
traveller  mentions  as  giving  such  a  singular  aspect  to  this 
wild  river-scenery. 

North  of  the  village  of  Atures,  and  nearly  two  leagues 
distant,  is  a  settlement  of  a  few  houses,  called  Pueblo 
Viejo,  the  old  town,  which,  like  the  one  upon  the  line  of 
portage,  was  at  one  time  quite  a  flourishing  village  ;  but 
the  plague  of  insects,  with  the  insalubrity  of  the  climate  in 
these  misty  and  heated  districts,  caused  its  depopulation, 
and  it  has  fallen  nearly  into  decay.  It  is  surprising  that 
any  persons  should  so  persistently  remain ;  but  the  attach- 


CAVE  OF  ATAEUIPE.  I49 

ment  which  inhabitants  of  frozen  regions  entertain  for 
their  homes,  amid  inhospitable  snows,  seems  to  possess 
these  people  of  the  burning,  j^estilential  plains  of  the  Ori- 
noco, fraught  with  so  many  causes  of  annoyances  and 
death. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  of  November,  after  over 
three  days  spent  in  making  the  passage  of  the  cataracts  of 
Atures,  we  renewed  our  voyage,  leaving  behind  one  of 
our  natives,  sick  with  the  calenture,  so  prevalent  in  the 
malarious  districts  of  the  Great  Cataracts.  The  Orinoco, 
at  this  point  where  it  enters  the  Haudales,  is  two-thirds 
of  a  mile  in  width,  or  twice  that  Avhere  it  issues  from  the 
rapids  below.  Of  the  several  channels  into  which  the 
stream  divides,  the  western  is  the  largest,  and,  as  we  have 
remarked,  the  one  through  which  vessels  pass  in  making 
the  descent  of  the  falls.  The  other  channels  are,  for  the 
most  part,  beds  of  granitic  rocks,  which  are  covered  only 
during  the  annual  swelling  of  the  river.  Black  bands  and 
erosions  upon  the  stones  indicated  that  the  waters  had 
already  fallen  twenty  feet  below  their  highest  level.  To 
our  left,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  river,  were  the  moun- 
tains which  contain  the  cave  of  Ataruipe,  the  sepulchre 
of  the  destroyed  nation  of  the  Atures.  We  regretted 
that  we  were  unable  to  visit  this  cemetery  of  a  departed 
race,  which  Humboldt  saw  and  describes  as  a  place  of  so 
great  interest.  That  traveller  counted  nearly  six  hundred 
skeletons  within  the  cave,  all  well  preserved,  each  being 
placed  in  a  basket  wrought  of  palm-leaves.  "  A  tradition 
circulates  among  the  Guahibos,  that  the  warlike  Atures, 
pursued  by  the  Caribs,  escaped  to  the  rocks  that  rise  in 
the  middle  of  the  Great  Cataracts  ;  and  there  that  nation, 
heretofore  so  numerous,  became  gradually  extinct,  as  well 
as  its  language.  The  last  families  of  the  Atures  still  ex- 
isted in  1*767,  in  the  time  of  the  missionary  Gili.  At  the 
period  of  our  voyage  an  old  parrot  was  shown  at  May- 


150  THE  GEEAT  CATARACTS   OF   THE   OKINOCO. 

pures,  of  which  tlie  inhabitants  said,  and  the  fact  is  worthy 
of  observation,  that  '  they  did  not  understand  what  it  said, 
because  it  spoke  the  language  of  the  Atures.' "  * 

At  noon  we  arrived  at  the  Raudal  de  Garcita,  which 
M'e  passed  by  towing.  To  the  southeast,  in  the  distance, 
we  beheld  the  truncated  peak  of  Calitamini,  nearly  four 
thousand  feet  high,  towering  far  above  the  surrounding 
hills.  Its  peculiar  outline  and  lofty  height  attract  from 
afar  the  attention  of  the  traveller  on  the  Upper  Orinoco. 
The  vegetation  along  the  river  displayed  that  luxuriance, 
beauty  of  form,  and  freshness  of  color,  peculiar  to  the  rich 
and  humid  regions  of  the  tropics.  The  white  trunks  of 
Yagrumas,  or  Cecropias  {^Cecropia  peltatci)^  the  home  of 
the  sloth,  with  their  large  palmate  leaves,  were  abundantly 
intermingled  with  statelier  trees,  which  towered  up  to  a 
height  we  had  seen  nowhere  surpassed,  while  vines  hung 
in  beautiful  festoons  from  the  borders  of  the  forest.  Palm- 
trees  were  especially  a  striking  feature  in  this  tropical 
landscape ;  the  fan-leaved  Mauritia,  the  lofty  Cucurito, 
and  spiny-trunked  Macanella,  rose  in  marked  conspicuoiis- 
ncss  amid  the  endless  variety  of  arboreal  forms.  The 
Jagua,  the  most  majestic  of  palms,  whose  stately  trunk 
attains  a  height  of  seventy  to  eighty  feet,  especially  in- 
vites the  attention  of  the  traveller.  Its  immense  plume- 
like leaves,  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  nearly 
vertical,  with  their  extremities  gently  curving,  form  a 
coronal  of  verdure  of  exceeding  grandeur.  Of  the  many 
and  varied  forms  of  vegetation  we  beheld  under  the  tropics, 
none  impressed  us  more  with  its  beauty  and  gracefulness 
than  the  Jagua-palm.  The  Jagua  of  the  Orinoco  must 
not  be  confounded  with  the  jd«/«?«  de  Yagua  of  other 
parts  of  Venezuela,  the  vernacular  name  of  which  is  the 
Corozo  Colorado,  from  which  the  inhabitants  obtain  their 
supply  of  palm-oil,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  African 

*  "  Humboldt's  Travels,"  vol.  ii.,  p.  484. 


PIAKO  INDIANS.  151 

negroes  obtain  theirs  from  an  allied  species,  viz.,  by  boil- 
ing the  fruit  in  water,  and  crushing  it  in  a  wooden  mortar, 
until  the  sarcocarp  is  separated  from  the  seed,  and  the  oil 
floats  on  the  surface  of  tlie  liquid  mass  thus  produced. 

Discovering  smoke  curling  upward  from  the  trees  of  a 
forest-island,  we  landed  and  found  a  large  palm-hut,  in- 
habited by  several  families  of  Piaroas,  who  were  living  in 
a  patriarchal  community.  Hearing  us  disembark,  the 
naked  inmates  came  swarming  out  from  their  wretched 
dAvelling.  The  women  were  unornamented ;  but  the  men, 
imitating  Nature,  who  adorns  the  male  in  the  gayest 
robes,  were  decorated  in  a  most  fantastic  manner.  A  neck- 
lace of  tiger  or  crocodile  teeth  was  worn  around  the  neck, 
with  bands  of  the  same  on  the  wrists.  Upon  the  head 
was  a  wreath,  made  by  weaving  in  a  circular  band  the 
variegated  plumage  of  the  bright-colored  macaw ;  while 
down  the  back  hung  a  bunch  of  feathers,  tails  of  animals, 
beautiful  humming-birds,  and  trinkets  of  various  kinds. 
We  were  to  them  objects  of  the  greatest  curiosity  ;  they 
examining  our  persons,  clothes,  and  things,  with  the  ut- 
most delight  and  childish  admiration.  Our  watches  es- 
pecially excited  their  attention  ;  but  their  utility,  besides 
subserving  the  purpose  of  ornamentation,  they  could  not 
comprehend.  From  these  Indians  we  supplied  ourselves 
with  a  number  of  candalas,  or  torches,  which  consisted 
of  a  strip  of  bark  a  yard  long,  rolled  into  a  tube  three 
inches  in  diameter,  filled  with  a  resinous  substance,  which 
in  burning  gives  out  more  smoke  than  light.  The  natives 
of  the  Orinoco  often  make  use  of  phosphorescent  insects 
{^pyrophorus  noctilucus),  as  a  substitute  for  artificial  light. 
A  number  of  these  natural  lamps  placed  in  a  calabash,  and 
shaken  when  wanted  for  use,  Avill  emit  light  sufficient  to 
make  visible  all  objects  within  the  hut. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  27th,  gathering  clouds 
indicating  a  heavy  storm,  we  hastened  to  a  large  rock  and 


152  THE   GKEAT   CATARACTS   OF   THE  OEINOCO. 

made  fast.  Our  natives,  undressing,  tucked  their  clothes 
aAvay  in  the  boat  under  shelter,  and  then  sat  quietly  down 
upon  the  bank  to  await  the  coming  rain,  while  we  crept 
beneath  our  carroza.  Soon  the  heavens  opened,  and  the 
floods  came.  Darkness  also  coming  before  the  tempest 
was  over,  we  were  obliged  to  remain  here  during  the  night, 
sleeping  upon  our  arms  from  fear  of  jaguars  and  Guahibos. 
Leaving  our  anchorage  early  in  the  morning,  we  soon 
came  to  the  liaudal  de  los  Guahibos,  which  is  a  single 
ledoe  of  rocks  stretching  across  the  river.  Our  natives 
plunged  into  the  water,  and,  by  swimming  from  rock  to 
rock,  they  managed,  after  much  difficulty  and  danger,  to 
j)ull  the  boat  through  the  rapids.  A  league  farther,  and 
npon  a  sudden  turn  in  the  river,  we  came  dii*ectly  in  front 
of  the  Rcmdales  de  May  pur  es.  We  gazed  with  emotions 
of  strange  awe  lap  the  long  vista  of  water,  as,  lashed  into 
foam,  it  came  plunging  down  over  the  rock-masses  and 
through  palm-covered  islands  that  studded  the  river.  We 
landed  in  a  cove  npon  the  west  bank,  at  the  lower  termi- 
nus of  the  portage,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Orinoco  and 
Guahibo  Rivers.  Here  we  took  our  Thanksgiving-dinner. 
Kindling  a  fire,  we  bailed  some  strips  of  tough  beef  and  a 
few  remaining  bananas,  which,  together  with  cassava  and 
guarapo,  constituted  our  meal.  Pacing  backward  and  for- 
ward along  the  hot  beach,  our  feet  burning  from  contact 
with  the  heated  earth,  with  food  in  one  hand,  and  the 
other  in  rapid  motion  with  a  large  leaf  to  disperse  the 
thick  clouds  of  mosquitoes  which  darkened  the  air,  we 
succeeded  in  taking  our  dinner — we  trust,  with  thankful 
hearts. 

Skirting  the  rapids  npon  the  west  is  a  Ioav,  granitic 
ridge,  partly  wooded,  from  v/hose  summit  may  be  viewed 
the  great  cataracts.  We  wish  that  we  covild  picture  the 
majestic  scenery  that  we  from  those  heights  beheld.  For 
over  a  mile  the  river  is  filled  with  great  blocks  of  granite, 


CASCADE   OF  MANIMI.  I53 

and  islands  with  ledges  of  rocks  stretching  betT^-een  them, 
or  reaching  from  shore  to  shore.  Through  the  narrow 
channels,  over  the  huge  bowlders,  and  long  dikes,  the  wa- 
ters wildly  plunged  as  if  they  would  whirl  the  very  rocks 
from  their  foundations,  and  sweep  them  down  the  rapids. 
The  islands  and  larger  rocks  were  covered  with  alluvial 
deposits,  supporting  a  growth  of  beautiful  palm-trees  and 
tropical  vegetation,  which  rose  in  luxuriant  masses  of  most 
vivid  green  through  the  vapory  clouds  which  hovered 
over  the  waters.  The  river  at  the  foot  of  the  cataracts  is 
contracted  to  less  than  five  hundred  yards  in  breadth, 
opening  a  shoi't  distance  below  to  twice  that  width.  Thei'c 
are  three  grand  dikes,  or  falls,  which  form  the  striking 
features  in  the  rcnidales  of  the  Maypures.  The  most  re- 
markable of  these  is  the  one  terminating  the  cataracts. 
Above  this  is  the  Cascade  of  Manimi,  formed  by  the  con- 
tinuation across  the  river  of  the  granitic  ridge  upon  the 
Avest,  before  alluded  to.  The  most  southern,  a  mile  above 
the  base  of  the  raudales,  is  divided  by  a  huge  and  nearly 
naked  rock  some  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  which  rises 
like  an  immense  tower  out  of  the  midst  of  the  whitened 
waters.  Above  this,  the  river  gradually  widens  to  two 
miles  in  breadth,  and  for  nearly  a  league  is  filled  with 
rocks  and  shoals,  which  render  it  diflicult  of  navigation. 

East  of  the  cataracts  is  a  chain  of  hills,  connected  upon 
the  south  with  the  lofty  mountains  of  Cunavami,  and  the 
truncated  peak  of  Calitamini.  The  Suniapo  River,  taking 
its  rise  among  these  ranges,  flows  into  the  Orinoco  just 
above  the  lowest  cascade  of  the  rapids.  Upon  the  west 
are  tlie  hills  of  Manimi,  with  isolated  clifis,  rocks,  and 
island-like  formations,  scattered  over  the  partially-wooded 
plain  vrhich  stretches  out  to  the  horizon.  Some  distance 
to  the  westward  of  where  the  Orinoco  at  present  flows  is 
a  valley,  which  indicates  itself  as  having  been  the  ancient 
bed  of  an  arm  of  that  majestic  river.     The  land  between 


154  THE   GREAT  CATARACTS   OF  THE  ORINOCO. 

it  and  the  present  channel  also  gives  evidence  of  having 
been  overflowed  ;  so  that  the  rocks  and  wooded  peaks 
which  now  rise  in  this  dry  tract  were  formerly  islands  in 
the  great  cnrrent  that  anciently  rolled  its  floods  across  the 
continent.  It  was  the  opinion  of  Humboldt — and  we  see 
nothin<T  to  militate  against  its  probability — that  a  canal 
could  be  cut  around  the  cataracts  of  Atures  and  Maypures, 
and  thus  this  great  river  rendered  navigable  a  distance  of 
npward  of  twelve  hundred  miles,  or  nearly  to  its  source 
among  the  lofty  mountains,  to  the  east  of  its  bifurca- 
tion. The  perpendicular  fall  which  the  river  makes  in  its 
descent  of  these  rapids  is  not  so  great  as  might  be  sup- 
posed from  the  turbulent  appearance  of  the  waters ;  and 
the  nature  of  the  ground  presents  excellent  facilities  for 
artificial  channels  around  these  obstructions  to  the  free 
navigation  of  the  river.  The  entire  fall  of  the  Maypures 
scarcely  amounts  to  more  than  thirty  feet,  while  that  of 
the  Atui-es  is  still  less. 

At  the  upper  terminus  of  the  portage,  which  is  a  league 
in  length,  Ave  found  three  mud  houses ;  one  jiossessed  by  a 
Spanish  family,  another  by  some  Indians,  and  the  third 
abandoned.  This  was  the  village  of  Maypures,  once  a 
thriving  mission-station,  containing  in  the  time  of  the 
Jesuits  about  six  hundred  inhabitants,  but  now  almost 
deserted,  its  site  overgrown  with  bushes  and  forest,  with 
here  and  there  sad  traces  of  past  prosperity.  As  we  have 
before  remarked  in  speaking  of  Atures,  the  insalubrity  of 
the  climate  about  the  Great  Cataracts,  together  with  the 
intolerable  plague  of  insects,  has  caused  the  depopulation 
of  these  regions.  Night  here  brings  no  relief  from  the 
annoyances  and  pains  of  the  day.  There  is  no  cooling 
breeze,  as  at  Atures,  upon  the  approach  of  evening,  to  as- 
suage the  heat  of  a  burning  atmosphere ;  for  at  Maypures 
no  wind  is  ever  felt.  Time  has  made  no  diminution  in  the 
number  of  insects.     At  the  commencement  of  the  present 


VILLAGE   OF  MAYPURES.  15  5 

century,  it  is  said  that  the  suifei-ing  occasioned  by  them 
was  so  unendurable,  that  tlie  inhabitants  of  the  village 
were  accustomed  to  retire  to  sleep  amid  the  rocks  and 
islands  of  the  cataracts,  as  there  the  insects  were  less  nu- 
merous. We  now  see  the  wretched  natives,  in  order  to 
escape  in  a  degree  their  torments,  build  a  fire  within  their 
huts  and  suspend  their  hammocks  in  the  smoke.  A  few 
coffee-shrubs  and  plantains  are  cultivated,  while  here  and 
there  an  orange  or  cocoa-nut  tree  is  seen  growing  about 
the  deserted  and  decayed  village  ;  but  the  cliief  subsistence 
of  the  fev,^  inhabitants  is  the  game  of  the  forest,  fish  and 
turtles  of  the  river,  together  with  yuca  raised  by  the 
neighboi'ing  Indian  tribes.  The  cultivation  of  maize  on 
the  Upper  Orinoco  is  now  entirely  neglected ;  and  the 
herds  of  cattle,  which  at  one  time  grazed  upon  the  savan- 
nas, have  disappeared. 

"We  spent  but  one  day  at  Maypures,  and  at  noon  of  the 
29th  we  again  embarked,  having  been  fortunate  enough 
to  secure  a  large  canoe  above  the  cataracts,  which  spared 
us  the  labor  of  dragging  our  own  boat  through  the  rapids, 
and  saved  us  a  delay  of  two  or  three  days.  Paddling 
down  a  winding  caiio  but  a  few  yards  in  width,  that  flows 
through  a  majestic  woodland,  we  soon  emerged  upon  the 
Orinoco,  which,  for  more  than  a,  league,  was  divided  into 
two  channels  by  a  chain  of  islands  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream.  The  atmosphere  we  breathed  seemed  as  if  drawn 
from  a  furnace.  Not  the  slightest  motion  in  the  lower 
strata  of  air  was  perceptible  ;  for,  from  the  Great  Cataracts 
of  the  Orinoco  to  the  celebrated  Falls  of  the  Kio  'Negro,  a 
perpetual  calm  prevails.  On  the  Lower  Orinoco  and  Ama- 
zons, where  the  streams  take  the  direction  of  the  trade- 
winds,  which  are  from  east  to  west,  breezes  are  constant, 
and  the  climate  more  salubrious  than  where  the  air  is  stag- 
nant through  the  absence  of  atmospheric  currents,  as  upon 
the  Upper  Orinoco  and  Rio  Negro. 


1-30  THE  GEEAT  CATAEACTS  OF   THE  OEINOCO. 

In  this  humid  climate,  so  destructive  to  wliatever 
moisture  can  affect,  our  watches  became  useless.  But 
wliat  need  of  such  contrivances  when  the  hour  of  the  day 
can  be  determined  by  animated  life,  which  so  thickly 
swarms  these  districts  ?  Each  species  of  insect  alternately 
comes  and  disappears  at  invariable  hours.  Between  the 
departing  of  some  species,  and  the  aj^pearing  of  the  one 
Avhich  succeeds,  there  is  a  short  intermission ;  others  over- 
lap each  other.  Each  produces  a  peculiar  sensation  by 
its  sting,  that  cannot  be  mistaken,  so  that,  even  though 
clouds  obscure  the  sun,  or  darkness  veil  the  night,  one 
may  be  assured  how  far  upon  its  course  the  day  or  night 
has  gone.  The  seasons,  too,  in  sections  of  this  tropical 
clime  where  no  alternating  periods  of  rains  and  drought 
note  their  passage,  but  where  vegetation  is  ever  ^reen, 
and  falling  showers  moisten  the  earth  throughout  the 
year,  can  be  known  by  the  migration  of  birds,  as,  driven 
by  swelling  rivers  inundating  the  land,  they  seek  other 
sections  where  food  may  be  found,  returning  at  their  ap- 
jiointed  time,  when  the  subsiding  of  the  waters  invites  them 
back  to  their  favorite  haunts.  Thus  the  Indian  of  these 
equatorial  regions  reads  from  Nature  the  times  and  sea- 
sons :  the  opening  flowers,  the  birds  and  insects,  all  tell 
him  of  the  fleeting  hours  and  years. 

Early  on  the  second  day  from  Maypnrcs,  we  passed 
the  Maiidal  de  Camcji ;  farther  on,  and  to  our  left,  the 
Sipapo  River ;  and  a  little  later  we  arrived  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Rio  Vichada,  next  to  the  Guaviare  and  Meta, 
the  largest  of  the  western  tributaries  of  the  Orinoco.  The 
following  morning  we  passed  on  the  west,  first  the  Zema, 
then  the  Mataveni — rivers  which  have  aguas  negras,  or 
black  waters.  Our  progress  was  slow  against  the  broad, 
strong  current  of  the  river,  although  to  avoid  its  force  we 
kept  close  to  the  banks,  which  rose  abruptly,  in  places 
tvrenty  to  thirty  feet  high.     Along  these  cliffs  Ave  observed 


AT  SAN  FEENANDO  DE  ATABAPO.  157 

Strata  of  red,  yellow,  and  white  clay ;  the  last  equallmg 
in  quality  that  from,  which  porcelain-ware  is  manufactured 
in  our  own  country.  They  all  doubtless  belong  to  the 
great  ochraccous  formation,  known  as  Tabatinga  clay, 
met  with  throughout  the  valleys  of  the  Rio  Negro  and 
Amazons.  But  few  islands  or  rocks  here  obstructed  the 
river;  and  often,  looking  up  the  broad  stream,  marked 
upon  either  side  by  a  long  forest-line,  our  eyes  rested  upon 
a  blank  horizon — the  meeting  of  the  water  and  sky.  On 
the  morning  of  the  3d  of  December,  we  passed  a  large 
square  rock  standing  in  the  river,  called  El  CastilUto,  the 
little  castle.  Here  Avas  also  a  raudal,  through  which  we 
hauled  our  canoe,  and  two  hours  after  sunset,  under  the 
light  of  a  bright  moon,  we  crossed  the  river  for  the  last 
time,  and,  bidding  farewell  to  its  waters,  entered  the 
mouth  of  the  Guaviare.  Thus  terminated  our  long  and 
tedious  voyage  up  the  Orinoco.  Following  up  a  short 
distance  the  Guaviare  to  its  confluence  with  the  Atabapo, 
we  turned  into  the  latter,  and  soon  after  landed  at  the 
town  of  San  Fernando. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

ATABAPO     AXD     UPPEE     RIO     NEGRO. 

Village  of  San  Fernando. — Ship-building. — Voyage  up  the  Atabapo. — Its 
Peculiar  Features. — Arrival  at  Javita. — Portage  to  Pimichin. — Down 
tlie  Pimicliiu. — Eio  Negro. — Village  of  Moi'oa. — Scarcity  of  Food. — 
Eepairing  a  Yantee  Clock. — Arrangements  for  Voyage  to  the  Ama- 
zons.— Leave  Moroa. — San  Carlos. — ^Enter  Brazil. 

Sa^s"  Fernando  de  Atabapo  is  one  of  the  most  de- 
liglitfully-situated  towns  we  met  with  in  the  interior.  It 
occupies  a  central  position  upon  the  great  water-shed  of 
the  Orinoco  and  Amazonian  valleys,  and  lies  at  the  junc- 
tion of  three  considerable  rivers — the  Guaviarc,  Atahapo, 
and  Orinoco.  Tlie  town  seems  scarcely  to  have  felt  the 
influence  of  Spanish  and  Portuguese  civilization,  marching 
up  the  Orinoco  and  Amazons.  It  contains  a  population 
of  four  or  five  hundred,  chiefly  Indians.  The  mandioca, 
sugar-cane,  cacao,  and  coffee,  are  cultivated  in  sufficient 
quantities  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  people.  Cocoa-nut 
palms,  which  have  accompanied  man  in  his  migrations  in 
all  lands,  thrive  here,  notwithstanding  their  distant  re- 
moval from  the  coast.  Cotton  grows  spontaneously,  as  it 
does  throughout  the  mountainous  regions  of  Guiana.  This 
plant  is  here  a  perennial,  and  attains  a  height  of  six  to 
eight  feet.  Pine-apples  grow  wild  in  the  greatest  abun- 
dance, and  possess  a  richness  of  flavor  often  deficient  in 
cultivated  varieties.     Broken  savannas  roll  out  from  the 


SFIIP-BUILDING.  I59 

town,  but  no  cattle  roam  tlieii*  grassy  stretches.  These 
animals  wore  introduced  at  San  Fernando  when  the  mis- 
sion was  first  established,  but  have  long  since  disappeared. 

Ship-building,  in  rather  a  primitive  way,  is  quite  largely 
carried  on  at  San  Fernando,  the  forests  affording  the  best 
of  timber  for  that  purpose.  Craft  upward  of  a  hundred 
tons  burden  are  constructed  with  no  other  tools  than  the 
saw,  axe,  and  hammer.  Only  the  hulls  are  completed,  and 
when  the  water  is  highest  these  are  floated  down  the 
Orinoco,  or  taken  around  by  the  Cassiquiare  to  the  Ama- 
zons. As  they  cannot  ascend  the  great  cataracts  of  those 
rivers,  they  do  not  return,  but  new  ones  are  annually  built 
and  run  down  during  spring-tide.  These  hulls  are  loaded 
with  hammocks,  mandToca,  piassaba-rope  made  from  the 
fibres  of  that  palm,  and  other  products  of  this  region. 
In  passing  the  catai'acts  of  Mayjoures  and  Atures,  and  the 
great  rapids  of  the  Rio  Negro,  the  cargo  is  removed  and 
cariied  around  the  obsti'uctions  by  portage ;  while  only  a 
pilot  remains  aboard  to  run  the  vessel  through  the  rapids 
— a  perilous  feat  to  the  adventurous  navigator.  Both  the 
vessel  and  its  contents  are  sold,  and  the  voyagers  return 
in  small  canoes.  These  craft,  when  fitted  out  with  rig- 
ging, are  used  in  the  coasting-trade,  and  in  navigating  the 
rivers  of  the  lower  country. 

During  our  sojourn  in  San  Fernando,  we  occupied  a 
residence  temporai'ily  vacated.  Naked  timbers  stretched 
across  irom  side  to  side,  one  of  which,  giving  way  one 
day,  came  crashing  down,  striking  the  ground  where,  but 
a  moment  before,  one  of  our  number  had  been  seated. 
Ants  had  eaten  oif  the  extremities  where  it  rested  upon 
the  mud  walls,  and  caused  its  falling.  One  who  has  never 
visited  the  tropics  can  form  no  conception  of  the  devas- 
tation wrought  by  voracious  insects.  Houses  are  literally 
consumed  by  them,  and  whole  villages  often  rendered  a 
pitiable  scene  of  desertion  and  ruin. 


160  ATABAPO   AND   UPPER  EIO  NEGIJO. 

Until  our  arrival  at  San  Fernando,  ■\ve  were  undecided 
as  to  wliicli  of  the  two  routes  to  the  Rio  Negro  we  should 
take  ;  whether  to  ascend  the  Atabapo  and  Temi,  and  then 
make  the  portage  of  three  leagues  to  the  caiio  Pimichin, 
or  to  ascend  the  Orinoco  and  make  the  passage  of  the  Cas- 
siqiiiare.  The  former  was  much  shorter,  with  no  serious 
obstacles  to  overcome,  and  could,  furthermore,  be  per- 
formed, at  this  favorable  season  of  low  water,  in  twelve 
or  fifteen  days  less  than  would  be  required  to  make  the 
other,  which  necessitated  a  journey  against  the  current  of 
the  Orinoco  of  nearly  fifty  leagues  through  a  wild,  barren, 
and  uninhabited  country.  Reaching  Esmeralda,  near  the 
celebrated  bifurcation  of  the  Orinoco,  the  traveller  descends 
the  Cassiquiare,  traversing  a  forest-region  infested  with 
insects,  which,  we  were  told,  were  more  "  ferocious  "  than 
those  of  the  Great  Cataracts.  After  navigating  that 
stream  sixty  leagues,  and  passing  the  many  rapids  that 
obstruct  its  course,  he  emerges  upon  the  black  waters  of 
the  Rio  Negro.  After  our  severe  experiences  upon  the 
Orinoco,  we  had  no  inclination  to  endure  the  still  greater 
annoyances  attending  a  voyage  upon  the  Cassiquiare,  and 
therefore  determined  to  ascend  the  Atabapo, 

We  encountered  no  little  difficulty  in  procuring  a  boat 
and  crew  by  which  to  continue  our  journey.  Again  we 
seemed  doomed  to  delay,  if  not  destined  to  be  turned 
back.  Could  we  but  make  Javita,  we  felt  that  our  con- 
nection with  the  Amazons  was  assured.  Once  more  for- 
tune favored  us.  Seiior  Andres  Level,  a  Spanish  trader, 
from  Moroa,  on  the  Rio  Negro,  arrived  at  San  Fernando, 
having  come  by  the  Cassiqiiiare,  and  for  the  sum  of  one 
hundred  and  ten  pesos  agreed  to  take  us  to  Barra,  near 
the  confluence  of  the  above-mentioned  river  with  the 
Amazons.  Our  boat,  or  lancha,  as  it  was  called,  was 
similar  in  construction  to  the  buco  by  which  we  ascended 
the  Orinoco,  but  was  a  much  more  commodious  craft.     It 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  ATABAPO,  161 

•was  manned  by  a  crew  of  four  Indians,  and  provisioned 
with  oranges  and  niaQoca.  The  latter  is  a  coarse,  grated 
flour,  made  from  the  yuca-root  {3Ianihot  utlllssima),  the 
Portuguese  substitute  for  the  Venezuelian  cassava. 

Upon  the  6th  of  December,  we  set  sail  up  the  Atabapo, 
a  stream  one-half  a  mile  in  breadth,  whose  low,  wooded 
banks  were  submerged  by  the  overflow  of  the  river.  Its 
waters  were  of  a  brownish  color,  and  yet  so  transparent  that 
objects  could  be  seen  at  the  depth  of  three  and  even  four 
fathoms.  The  temperature  of  these  aguas  negras  is  much 
lower  than  that  of  the  white  waters  of  the  Orinoco,  and 
afibrded  a  more  grateful  beverage  than  the  turbid  element 
we  had  been  compelled  to  use  for  so  long  a  time.  "We 
were  now  no  longer  annoyed  by  the  torment  of  insects, 
for  mosquitoes  and  sancudos  are  seldom  found  on  black- 
water  rivers.  Neither  do  crocodiles  haunt  the  limpid 
stream  of  the  Atabapo,  and  the  splash  of  the  falling  igua- 
nas docs  not  startle  the  voyager.  The  forest,  too,  seemed 
hushed  in  silence  ;  the  plaintive  cry  of  monkeys  was  no 
longer  heard,  and  but  few  birds  were  seen.  Not  a  leaf 
rustled,  for  no  breeze  ever  disturbs  the  quiet  of  these  deep 
solitudes — all  was  silent  as  the  grave.  The  mountains 
were  also  wanting,  and  our  eyes  scanned  in  vain  the  forest 
horizon  for  the  slightest  elevation  to  relieve  the  same- 
ness of  the  landscape. 

The  first  night  upon  the  Atabapo  we  passed  with  our 
boat  anchored  to  a  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  dark  stream. 
When  some  distance  on  our  way  the  following  morning, 
we  discovered  that  a  little  basket  belonging  to  Senor 
Level,  containing  several  letters  he  was  conveying  to 
individuals  upon  the  Rio  Negro,  twenty  dollars  in  gold, 
and,  what  he  seemed  to  regret  most,  his  cigarettes,  with 
which  he  was  intending  to  regale  himself  upon  the  jour- 
ney, had  somehow  been  lost  overboard  where  we  had 
spent  the  night.     Comforting  himself  with  the  assurance 


1G2  ATABAPO   AND  UPPER  KIO   KEGPvO. 

tliat  his  treasures  were  safe  in  the  bottom  of  the  river,  we 
did  not  delay  to  recover  them,  he  intending  to  secure  them 
upon  his  next  voyage  that  way.  We  might  here  remark, 
en  passant^  that  our  money,  which  was  in  coin,  was  often 
left  unguarded  in  our  boat  Avithout  any  apprehensions 
being  entertained  for  its  safety.  Honesty  is  a  virtue  char- 
acteristic of  the  Indian  tribes  with  which  we  were  thrown 
in  contact.  We  have  seen  them,  when  actually  suffering 
from  hunger,  decline  to  molest  food  discovered  in  huts 
temporarily  vacated.  These  natives,  with  that  confidence 
in  their  race  xuilcnown  among  civilized  communities,  leave 
their  homes  unprotected,  and  go  on  distant  excursions, 
with  the  assurance  that  upon  their  return  nothing  will  be 
found  missing  ;  nor  are  they  ever  disappointed,  unless  some 
straggling  bianco  chances  to  wander  that  way  during  their 
absence. 

At  10  A.  M.  we  reached  Camachina,  an  Indian  pueblo 
of  some  thirty  houses,  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  stream. 
The  inhabitants,  like  most  of  those  in  the  towns  on  the 
Atabapo,  were  quite  well  dressed ;  their  general  appear- 
ance indicated  some  degree  of  intelligence ;  and  their 
dwellings,  which  were  comfortable  abodes,  presented  some 
regularity  and  neatness  in  their  arrangement,  as  compared 
with  the  wretched  huts  of  the  tribes  on  the  banks  of  the 
Orinoco.  We  bartered  with  them  for  a  few  chipiries,  or 
small  turtles,  and  plantains — a  cambric  needle  or  a  fish- 
hook being  an  equivalent  for  a  turtle  or  a  bunch  of  ba- 
nanas. Two  more  Indians  were  here  obtained,  who  accom- 
panied us  to  assist  in  passing  the  rapids  of  the  river.  In 
the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  another  small  Indian  settlement 
upon  the  same  bank,  and  late  in  the  evening  reached 
Piedra  del  Tigre,  a  granitic  rock  upon  the  eastern  shore, 
where  we  spent  the  night. 

The  inundation  of  the  banks  of  the  Atabapo  presents 
no  little  inconvenience  to  the  traveller ;  for  often,  when 


ITS  PECULIAR  FEATURES.  163 

making  the  long  stretches  which  separate  tlie  villages,  he 
can  find  a  resting-place,  or  where  to  build  a  fire  to  prepare 
his  food,  only  upon  some  solitary  rock  rising  above  the 
water.  These  spots  are  known  to  the  Indians ;  and,  in  their 
voyages  up  and  down  the  stream,  they  will  not  pass  one 
unless  confident  that  they  can  reach  another  before  they 
have  need  of  fire  or  rest.  A  striking  feature  of  the  river 
is  the  fine,  white  sand  which  here  and  there  lifts  itself  in 
banks  above  the  water.  Its  dazzling  brightness  is  almost 
blinding,  and  in  the  distance  the  long  lines  of  coast  present 
the  appearance  of  drifts  of  snow  glistening  in  the  sun. 
Another  marked  peculiarity  is  the  diminutive  size  of  the 
trees,  which  constitute  the  forests  of  the  inundated  banks 
of  the  river.  This  is  noticed  the  more  in  coming  from  the 
rich  lands  of  the  Orinoco,  where  stately  monarchs  tower 
up  with  such  grand  proportions. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  8th  we  were  at  the  Maudal  de 
Gauriname,  which,  next  to  the  Great  Cataracts  of  the  Ori- 
noco, seemed  the  most  formidable  we  had  encountered. 
Our  Indians,  by  entering  the  water  and  towing  the  boat, 
succeeded,  after  much  hard  work,  in  placing  it  above  the 
rock-obstructions.  All  hands  then  enjoyed  a  bath,  a  lux- 
ury that  crocodiles  and  caribes  no  longer  rendered  a  haz- 
ardous experiment.  Just  before  sunset  we  pulled  up  to 
the  east  bank  at  Baltazar,  a  neat  Indian  pueblo  of  some 
twenty  houses.  A  single  Spaniard,  who  was  both  the 
temporal  and  spiritual  adviser  of  these  people,  held  abso- 
lute sway  in  his  little  realm.  "NVe  were  unable  to  barter 
with  the  Indians,  excepting  as  we  did  it  through  him,  he 
seeming  to  sustain  a  patriarchal  relation  to  the  whole  vil- 
lage. We  spent  the  night  at  this  place,  sleeping  in  the 
open  air  upon  a  rock  in  front  of  the  village,  leaving  before 
daylight  in  the  morning.  Santa  Cruz,  upon  the  right  bank, 
a  village  the  size  of  the  last,  was  reached  by  3  p.  m.  "We 
obtained  from  tlie  inhabitants  some  chipiries'  eggs,  which 


164       ATABAPO  AND  UPPEE  KIO  NEGEO. 

are  ohiong  in  shape,  with  a  hard,  calcareous  shell,  contain- 
ing oil  like  those  of  the  tortuga.  We  found  this  oleagi- 
nous portion  extremely  delicious,  although  our  Indians  dis- 
carded it,  eating  only  the  yolk. 

A  short  distance  above  Santa  Cruz  we  left  the  Ataba- 
po,  which  turns  to  the  east  under  the  name  of  Atacavi,  and 
entered  the  mouth  of  the  Temi,  whose  Avaters  were  also 
inky  black.  Passing  one  night  upon  this  river,  the  fol- 
lowing day  we  entered  the  Tuamini,  a  still  narrower 
stream,  equally  black ;  and  at  4  p.  m.  of  the  same  day,  the 
10th  of  December,  we  landed  at  Javita,  the  terminus  of 
our  journey  up-stream.  It  was  the  turning-point  in  our 
travels,  for  from  here  we  were  to  float  doAvn  the  current 
of  the  Rio  Negro  to  the  Amazons.  Sixty-eight  years  be- 
fore, the  illustrious  Humboldt  jienetrated  these  very  wilds 
by  the  Orinoco  and  Atabapo,  as  far  as  the  borders  of  Bra- 
zil, returning  by  the  Cassiquiare.  In  1851,  the  English 
naturalist  Wallace,  in  his  journey  upon  the  Kio  Negro, 
ascended  that  river  as  far  as  this  place,  retracing  his  steps 
as  he  had  come.  But  no  American  traveller  had  before 
us  penetrated  to  these  remote  regions ;  we  were  the  fii'st 
to  unfurl  the  stars  and  stripes  upon  these  upper  waters  of 
the  Orinoco. 

The  village  of  Javita  has  some  thirty  houses,  with  a 
neat  little  church,  and  a  great  square  which  is  kept  scru- 
pulously clean.  The  inhabitants,  about  three  hundred  in 
number,  are  all  Indians,  and  speak  the  Baniwa  language, 
although  many  of  them  converse  fluently  in  Spanish.  All 
were  well  clothed,  the  men  wearing  pants  and  a  camisa, 
and  the  women  gowns  which  hung  loosely  about  their 
persons.  Some  of  the  young  girls  were  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful, and  when  attired  in  their  best,  with  their  black  hair 
neatly  plaited,  they  presented  a  really  attractive  appear- 
ance. Many  among  them,  not  over  twelve  years  of  age, 
were  already  mothers  and  owners  of  chubby,  enterprising 


POET  AGE  OF  PKINICHIN.  165 

babies.  The  people  employ  themselves  in  collecting  the 
fibrous  bark  of  the  Paissaba  palm  that  grows  abundantly 
in  the  forest,  which  substance  is  extensively  used  for 
manufacturing  ropes  and  cables.  Every  thing  which 
crosses  the  isthmus  of  Javita  is  carried  by  them,  and  the 
loads  they  are  able  to  transport  is  truly  astonishing.  The 
distance  across  is  three  leagues,  and  the  round  trip  is  made 
in  one  day,  the  carriers  often  taking  a  burden  each  day. 

In  every  Indian  hamlet  and  village  of  these  interior 
districts  there  is  a  casa  real,  a  house  for  the  use  of  travel- 
lers, itinerant  officials,  and  padres.  This  beneficent  ar- 
rangement of  these  hospitable  people  furnishes  shelter  to 
the  stranger,  which  would  often  be  difficult  to  secure  in 
their  overcrowded  huts.  In  such  a  place  we  were  quartered 
at  Javita.  Wishing  to  delay  here  but  a  short  time,  we 
made  arrangements  to  cross  the  portage  to  Pimichin  on 
the  day  following  our  arrival  at  the  village.  Our  boat 
was  too  heavy  to  take  overland,  as  the  Indians  are  accus- 
tomed to  do  with  their  ^canoes  ;  nor  was  it  necessary  for 
us,  as  another  could  be  secured  upon  the  other  side  of  the 
isthmus.  Early  in  the  morning  the  carriers  were  at  our 
quarters,  accompanied  by  a  crowd  of  women  and  children, 
who,  from  curiosity,  gathered  about  the  door.  Every  man 
was  paid  before  he  started,  each  selecting  such  articles  as 
struck  his  fancy,  from  our  stock  of  cloth,  arrow-heads, 
beads,  and  needles.  The  display  of  our  wares  attracting 
those  who  stood  about  the  entrance,  the  bolder  ones 
pushed  themselves  within,  and  the  more  timid  slowly  fol- 
lowed, until  the  room  was  literally  packed,  when,  with 
two  or  three  upon  each  bundle,  all  diffidence  seemed  to 
have  been  overcome.  The  lighter  packages  were  arranged 
so  as  to  be  carried  upon  the  head,  while  the  heavier  ones 
were  slung  upon  poles  and  borne  upon  the  shoulders  of 
two  persons.  tn 

When  the  last  of  the  Indian  train  was  in  motion,  we 


166  ATABAPO   AND  UPPEK  KIO  NEGEO. 

followed  in  the  line  of  march,  and,  althongh  unencumbered 
with  burdens  and  walking  briskly,  making  the  distance 
of  over  three  leagues  in  as  many  hours,  all  of  the  carriers, 
excepting  a  couple  Avho  were  detained  by  the  giving  way 
of  their  load,  reached  Pimichin  some  time  before  us. 

A  short  distance  fi-om  the  village  we  entered  the  dense 
forest,  and  were  surprised  to  see  the  magnificent  growth 
of  the  trees  as  compared  with  the  dwarfed  vegetation  upon 
the  submerged  lands  of  the  Temi  and  Atabapo.  Grow- 
ing along  the  path  was  the  beautiful  Cucurito  palm,  the 
Inaja  of  the  Portuguese  {Maximilimia  regia),  and  hairy 
stems  of  the  Piassaba  {Zeopoldinia  JPlassaba)  were  inter- 
spersed throughout  the  forest.  In  these  humid  woods  and 
sombre  shades,  where  scarcely  a  sunbeam  ever  penetrates, 
but  two  species  of  flowers  were  found,*  excejiting  a  few 
that  had  fallen  from  stately  trees  high  above  our  heads ; 
bnt  our  herbarium  received  many  curious  and  interesting 
ferns  and  mosses  which  carpeted  the  earth,  and  covered 
the  trunks  and  branches  of  the  trees.  We  remember 
seeing  nowhere  in  such  numbers  the  large,  blue  Morphos, 
that  gigantic  butterfly  which  so  attracts  the  attention  of 
travellers  in  the  tropics.  Other  beautiful  insects  fluttered 
plentifully  about  us,  for  it  was  now  the  dry  season  at  Javi- 
ta,  the  time  when  they  are  the  most  abundant.  The  in- 
habitants of  this  district  enjoy  for  three  or  four  months 
an  unclouded  sky  and  most  delightful  weather.  This, 
however,  is  not  true  lower  down  on  the  Rio  Xegro,  where 
rains  are  constant  throughout  the  year,  so  that  often  for 
days  and  weeks  at  a  time  the  heavens  are  obscured  with 
clouds,  and  falling  vapors  saturate  the  earth.     We  experi- 

*  Voyria  Jlavescens  and  T".  nuda.,  little  plants  from  four  to  six  inches 
high,  with  yellow  and  white  flowers.  They  are  among  the  few  repre- 
sentative species  of  the  floral  kingdom  that  grow  beneath  the  dense  forest 
of  the  tropics.  We  fovmd^thera  upon  the  mountains  of  Valencia,  and 
also  in  the  deep  woods  of  the  Rio  Negro. 


piMicnrN.  .  167 

enccd  great  difficulty  in  those  humid  regions  in  taking  ob- 
servations ;  for  frequently  many  days  in  succession  the  sun 
could  not  be  observed  through  the  thick  fogs  and  clouds 
which  hovered  over  the  forests. 

The  road  from  Javita  to  Pimichin,  which  runs  directly 
through  the  forest,  is  only  with  much  labor  kept  free  from 
vegetation,  that  would  soon,  in  this  fostering  soil,  blockade 
the  way.  At  least  once  a  year,  the  entire  population  of 
the  villages  near  either  terminus  of  the  road  turn  out 
en  masse,  with  axes,  machetes,  and  brooms,  and  the  path, 
over  twenty  feet  in  width  along  its  entire  length  of  three 
leagues,  is  cleared  from  vegetation  and  all  obstruction, 
and  the  whole  swept  clean  of  leaves  and  rubbish.  Logs, 
hewn  upon  the  upper  surface  and  roughened  so  as  to  offer 
a  secure  footing,  are  stretched  across  the  marshes  and 
streams.  A  cross  marks  the  half-way  point  between  the 
termini.  As  far  as  this,  the  inhabitants  of  Javita  keep  the 
road  repaired ;  while  the  villages  of  the  Upper  Rio  Negro 
attend  to  the  other  half.  No  indication  of  life  and  enter- 
prise awakened  in  us  such  a  feeling  of  surprise  as  this 
truly  royal  road,  cut  through  the  virgin  forest,  and  con- 
necting the  civilization  of  the  Orinoco  with  that  of  the 
Rio  Negro  and  Amazons.  Some  geographers  have  laid 
down  a  mountain-range  as  running  lengthwise  of  this 
isthmus.  On  the  contrary,  this  water-shed  is  low,  with 
slight  elevations,  scarcely  noticeable  as  the  ground  is 
walked  over.  In  these  marshy  grounds  and  tangled  thick- 
ets, we  were  told  that  venomous  serpents  were  most  abun- 
dant, and  that  the  black  tiger,  an  animal  fiercer  and  bolder 
than  the  spotted  jagiaar  of  the  Orinoco,  was  not  unfre- 
quently  encountered. 

By  11  A.  M.  we  reached  Pimichin,  a  hamlet  of  two 
houses,  besides  the  casa  real,  a  dilapidated  building. 
Here  w^delayed  only  a  short  time,  but,  loading  <©ur  cargo 
into  a  boat  the  size  of  the  one  abandoned  at  Javita,  in 


168        ATABAPO  AND  UPPEE  EIO  NEGRO, 

which  we  were  to  go  as  far  as  Movoa,  we  commenced 
lloating  down  the  meandering  Cano  Phnichin  which  leads 
to  the  Rio  Negro.  The  breadth  of  this  black-water  rivulet 
where  we  embarked  is  scarcely  thirty  yards,  and  a  more 
crooked  stream  it  would  be  difficult  to  imagine,  its  wind- 
ings taking  us  to  every  point  of  the  compass.  The  forest 
bordering  the  river  was,  like  those  of  the  Atabapo  and 
Temi,  inundated,  and  exhibited  but  few  signs  of  animated 
life.  We  jiassed  two  rapids  in  the  descent  of  the  stream, 
at  one  of  which  we  ran  upon  a  rock,  and  for  a  moment 
stuck  fast,  while  the  current,  breaking  against  our  frail 
bark,  made  it  quiver  like  a  reed  from  stem  to  stern.  Five 
hours  from  the  time  we  embarked  at  the  village  of  Pinii- 
chin,  we  arrived  upon  the  Rio  Negi'O,  or  Guainia,  as  the 
river  is  called  above  Moroa.  A  long  line  of  huge  bowlders, 
appearing  like  the  central  moraine  of  an  ancient  glacier, 
stretched  down  the  middle  of  the  stream  directly  in  front 
of  the  mouth  of  the  CaGo  Pimichin.  The  Rio  Negro 
(black  river)  has  been  rightly  named,  for  it  is  inky  black, 
nor  do  the  many  white-water  tributaries  which  it  re- 
ceives, in  its  course  of  over  twelve  hundred  miles  from  its 
source  among  the  isolated  group  of  hills  in  the  plains  to 
the  east  of  Javita,  seem  to  affect  perceptibly  its  peculiar 
colorization.  The  water  itself  as  it  pours  from  the  paddle 
appears  of  a  reddish  tinge. 

A  short  distance  below  the  mouth  of  the  Pimichin, 
upon  the  left  bank,  is  the  village  of  Morcia,  where  we  soon 
landed  and  took  possession  of  the  casa  real,  while  our 
Indians  dispersed  through  the  place,  and  ScSor  Level 
sought  the  domestic  retirement  of  his  own  cottage.  He 
had  never  married,  still  his  family  was  quite  an  extensive 
one,  consisting  of  a  number  of  Indian  women  and  girls, 
together  with  several  youngsters  of  various  complexions 
who  called  him  padre.  In  this  country  of  loose  morals, 
where  social  tics  are  little  regarded,  such  ecenS  are  not 


VILLAGE  OF  MOKOA.  169 

unfrequent.  Moroa  has  a  population,  which  is  mostly 
Indian,  of  about  tliree  hundred.  Scarcity  of  food  upon 
the  Rio  Negro  is  so  great  that  the  inhabitants  often  suffer 
extremely  for  the  want  of  subsistence.  "  But  hunger  never 
comes  to  my  house,"  said  Seiior  Level,  "  for,  in  the  season 
when  tortoises  appear  upon  the  beaches,  I  provide  myself 
with  meat  against  the  time  of  famine."  The  Indians,  less 
provident,  take  no  thought  for  the  morrow  but  obtain 
their  food  from  the  forest  and  river  as  their  wants  require. 
Scattered  through  the  forest  and  along  the  rivers,  may  be 
seen  small  yuca  or  mandioca  plantations,  with  patches  of 
coffee-trees  and  the  sugar-cane,  aside  from  which  but  little 
of  any  thing  is  cultivated.  Cacao  and  rice,  generally  in  a 
wild  state,  add  to  the  scanty  supplies  of  the  inhabitants. 
So  rich  is  the  soil  of  the  Rio  Negro,  that,  with  the  greatest 
facility,  abundance  of  every  tropical  product  might  be 
raised  ;  but,  rather  than  clear  the  forest  and  till  the  land, 
the  people  prefer  to  pass  a  wretched  life  of  constant  priva- 
tion and  suffering.  Tlie  difficulty  of  securing  means  of 
subsistence  was  a  great  annoyance  to  us  while  we  were 
upon  this  river. 

We  found  at  Moroa  three  Spanish  families,  in  whose 
homes  were  many  of  the  accompaniments  and  comforts  of 
civilized  life.  It  was  a  little  curious  to  find,  in  this  remote 
land,  a  Yankee  clock;  but, as  is  liable  to  be  the  case  with 
such  inventions,  it  had  long  since  ceased  to  be  of  any  prac- 
tical value  to  its  owner,  who,  laboring  under  the  delusion 
that  Americans  are  universal  geniuses,  proposed  to  us  that 
we  repair  his  time-piece.  After  a  grave  examination  of 
the  machine,  some  pulling  to  pieces  and  putting  together 
again  of  the  parts,  not  less  to  our  astonishment  than  his 
delight,  the  pendulum  moved  on  and  the  different  sections 
of  the  contrivance  resumed  their  proper  functions.  For 
this  artistic  achievement  we  received  several  preserved 
gpeciraens  of  beautiful  birds. 
8 


170        ATABAPO  AND  UPPER  EIO  NEGRO. 

At  Morua  we  saw,  for  the  first  time,  the  beautiful  bird 
called  ffallo  de  piedra,  cock  of  the  rock,  which  is  the  size 
of  a  pigeon,  with  a  bright-orange  color,  and  a  large  feath- 
ered crest  of  the  same  brilliant  hue  upon  its  head.  They 
are  highly  prized  by  the  Indians  of  the  Ilio  Negro,  who 
capture  the  gorgeously-colored  birds  of  the  forests  with 
their  cerbatanas  and  poisoned  arrows,  for  the  sake  of  their 
beautiful  plumage,  which  they  use  in  adorning  their  ham- 
mocks. These  are  manufactured  from  the  palm-leaf,  the 
fibres  of  which  are  twisted  by  hand  into  threads  and  dyed 
of  various  colors,  then  closely  woven  on  rudely-constructed 
hand-looms.  A  border  of  the  same  material  ten  or  twelve 
inches  broad  is  added,  ornamented  with  designs  of  birds 
and  flowers,  beautifully  wrought  with  feathers,  constituting 
an  exceedingly  rich  embroidery.  The  manner  of  weaving 
hammocks,  as  well  as  the  material  which  enters  into  their 
construction,  varies  with  different  tribes.  The  Indians  of 
the  Rio  Negro  and  Upper  Orinoco  use,  as  we  have  ob- 
served, the  fibres  of  the  palm-trees,  and  make  a  coarse 
cloth-like  fabric  ;  those  of  the  Apure  and  Lower  Orinoco 
generally  employ  a  species  of  grass  of  great  strength  and 
durability,  which  is  woven  with  large,  net-like  meshes. 

We  could  procure,  at  Moroa,  only  maiioca  with  which 
to  provision  ourselves  for  our  long  voyage  to  the  Ama- 
zons, while  the  towns  and  conucos  *  along  the  river,  we 
were  told,  would  be  found  equally  destitute,  which  our 
experiences  afterward  fully  corroborated.  It  was  also  the 
wet  season,  in  which  we  could  depend  but  little  upon  game 
or  fish,  as  during  the  time  of  high  water  the  forest  animals 
are  driven  from  the  inundated  plains  of  the  river,  and  the 
fishes  are  less  easily  taken  on  account  of  the  deepening 
waters,  from  which  also  many  species  migrate  to  the 
swollen  tributaries.     Our  vessel  was  one  of  the  roughly. 

*  The  same  as  rancho  ;  a  rude  hut  constructed  of  palm-leaves  for 
temporary  rcsidente. 


SAN  MIGUEL.  171 

made  sailing-craft  of  the  country,  twenty-five  feet  in 
length  and  seven  in  width.  A  palm-thatched  roof,  cover- 
ing ten  feet  of  the  stern,  constituted  our  cabin.  In  these 
contracted  quarters  was  stowed  a  quantity  of  hammocks, 
which  Senor  Level  was  sending  to  Barra,  our  baggage,  and 
collections  to  which  we  had  added  largely  of  Indian  curi- 
osities at  Moroa.  Beneath  the  floor  of  our  carroza  our 
turtles  were  kept,  when- we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  have 
any.  In  front  of  the  carroza  were  placed  our  baskets  of 
manoca,  which,  as  we  have  said,  constitutued  our  sole  sup- 
ply of  provisions.  Our  crew  consisted  of  five  Indians ; 
four  of  whom  were  paddlers,  and  the  other,  a  gray-headed 
patriarch,  was  our  patron.  One  of  the  number  we  had 
secured  with  special  reference  to  his  knowledge  of  the 
river,  and  familiarity  with  the  peculiar  languages  of  the 
various  Indian  tribes  which  inhabit  its  banks.  None  of 
the  others  had  ever  been  to  any  considerable  distance 
down  the  Rio  Negro. 

It  was  sunset  on  the  13th  of  December  when  we  left 
Moroa,  descending  rapidly  with  the  swift  current  of  the 
dark  stream,  one-quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  A  few 
miles  down  we  tarried  a  short  time  at  Toma,  a  village  of 
some  three  hundred  inhabitants,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small 
stream  bearing  the  same  name ;  and  still  farther  down, 
upon  the  opposite  bank,  we  came  to  San  Miguel,  where 
we  spent  the  night.  This  town  is  the  largest  we  had  seen 
since  leaving  San  Fernando  de  Apure,  and  is  the  most 
considerable  of  any  upon  the  Rio  Negro  before  reaching 
Barra.  Like  the  other  towns  of  the  Upper  Rio  Negro, 
its  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  ship-building ;  the  vessels, 
such  as  we  have  before  alluded  to,  being  taken  down  to 
the  Amazonian  market,  or,  by  the  Cassiquiare,  to  Angos- 
tura and  the  northern  coast. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  after  five  hours  of  rest, 
we  reembarked.     The  river,  although  rapidly  falling,  was 


172  ATABAPO   AND   UPPER  KIO  NEGRO. 

still  quite  high,  and  the  rocks,  which  at  low  water  obstruct 
navigation,  were  now  covered,  ^o  that,  with  a  strong  cur- 
rent to  aid  us,  we  made  rapid  progress.  We  stopped  dur- 
ing the  day  at  several  Indian  conucos  in  hopes  of  purchasing 
turtles,  but  found  none  until  reaching  Tiriquin,  at  4  p.  m., 
a  village  of  some  forty  dwellings  upon  the  west  shore,  at 
which  place  we  were  successful,  and  partook  of  our  first 
meal  for  the  day.  Coming  to  anchor,  at  nine  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  where  we  observed  a  deserted  hut,  we  took 
possession,  and  rested  until  two  hours  after  midnight.  At 
sunrise  we  passed  without  difficulty  the  Maiulal  de  Cocui, 
and  just  below  this  the  mouth  of  the  Cassiquiare,  which 
is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  Its  white  waters, 
similar  to  those  of  the  Orinoco,  of  which  they  are  a  part, 
presented  a  striking  contrast  to  tlic  black  current  of  the 
Rio  Negro.  Tliree  leagues  fart'aer,  and  we  were  at  San 
Carlos,  the  frontier  town  of  Venezuela,  and  the  lowest 
point  on  the  river  reached  by  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  in 
their  passage  from  the  northern  coast  of  Venezuela.  A 
custom-house  is  established  here,  from  which  it  was  neces- 
sary to  obtain  clearance  even  for  our  small  craft,  before 
we  could  pass  into  the  Portuguese  country  of  Brazil.  Our 
passports  also  required  to  be  viseed,  and,  for  the  first  time 
since  they  were  received  from  our  Secretary  of  State,  these 
interesting  documents,  requesting  that  the  bearer  be  per- 
mitted "  safely  and  freely  to  pass,  and,  in  case  of  need,  to 
give  him  all  lawful  and  needful  protection,"  were  pre- 
sented to  the  scrutiny  of  an  official.  It  was  a  little  amus- 
ing to  observe  the  comandante  curiously  scanning  the 
mysterious  parchment,  such  as  he  had  never  before  seen, 
and  which  he  was  also  unable  to  read,  and  then  very 
gravely  prefixing  his  signature,  certifying  that  all  was 
right. 

The   village  of  San   Carlos    consists   of  eighteen   or 
twenty  miserable  huts,  surrounding  a  great  square,  whose 


SAN  CAELOS.  IV3 

principal  use  was  to  serA'e  as  sleeping-quai-tei-s  at  niglit 
for  cattle,  the  iirst  we  saw  after  leaving  the  Lower  Ori- 
noco. A  few  hairy  sheep  were  wandering  about,  grazing 
the  scanty  herbage  of  the  town.  These  creatures,  in  the 
warm  regions  of  tlie  tropics,  when  neglected,  do  not  pro- 
duce wool,  as  the  climate  renders  such  a  thick  covering 
unnecessarJ^  Nature,  too,  in  this  land  of  perpetual  sum- 
mer, forgets  to  wrap  the  buds  of  plants  in  imbricated 
scales  and  resinous  coatings,  the  winter  protection  of 
uorthern  vegetation.  How  striking  an  adaptability  do 
we  observe,  of  life  animate  and  inanimate,  to  varying  con- 
ditions ! 

Neatness  and  taste,  characteristics  of  other  Indian 
villages  upon  the  Upper  Kio  Negro,  are  not  virtues  of 
San  Carlos — it  is  too  near  Portuguese  civilization.  The 
place  presents  an  uninviting  aspect.  The  principal  build- 
ing, formerly  occujiied  by  the  padres,  is  now  the  head- 
quarters of  the  comandante.  Old  flint-muskets,  accou- 
trements, and  other  paraphernalia  of  war,  covered  with 
rust  from  the  excessive  humidity  of  these  districts,  filled 
one  of  the  apartments.  The  remains  of  an  old  fort  were 
opposite  the  town,  upon  the  hig'i  bluff  of  the  western 
bank. 

Having  breakfasted  with  the  Venezuelian  official,  we 
departed  from  San  Carlos,  reaching,  late  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  following  day,  Cocoi,  a  collection  of  three  or  four 
houses,  and  the  frontier  post  of  Brazil.  Here  the  formal- 
ities of  the  custom-house,  and  the  examining  of  passports, 
require  the  stopping  of  boats  in  their  passage.  Opposite 
the  settlement,  upon  the  east  side  of  the  river,  is  the  Pie- 
dra  de  Coco'i,  an  enormous,  seemingly  monolithic  rock, 
nearly  one  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  half  that  in  diam- 
eter at  its  base,  which  marks  the  boundary  between  the 
countries  of  Venezuela  and  Brazil.  Upon  one  side  it  rose 
almost  perpendicularly,  allowing  no  foothold  for  vegcta- 


174        ATABAPO  AND  UPPEK  EIO  NEGKO. 

tion ;  while  upon  its  remaining  sides,  that  sloped  more 
gently,  bushes  and  dwarfed  forest-trees  partially  clotlied 
the  otherwise  barren  walls.  The  traveller  on  the  Upper 
Rio  Negro  frequently  has  his  attention  attracted  by  these 
curious,  isolated,  granitic  masses,  which  often,  in  tall  pillars 
or  gigantic  towers,  clothed  with  little  or  no  verdure,  rise 
abruptly  from  the  surrounding  forest-level,  forming  a 
striking  feature  in  the  monotonous  landscape. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  TJO  NEGRO. 

First  Glimpse  of  Portuguese  Civilization.— Climate. — Cross  the  Equator. — 
Cataracts  of  San  Gabriel.— Grand  Scenery.— Desertion  of  Guide.— 
India-Eubber  Manufacture.— Christmas  ou  the  Kio  Negro.— Floating 
at  Night.— Beauty  of  the  Southern  Firmament. — Lost  on  the  Eiver. — 
Barcellos. — Geology  of  the  Kio  Negro. — Desolation  of  the  Kiver. — 
Eeach  Manaos.— Tidings  from  the  Quitouian  Party  of  our  Expedition.— 
Farewell  to  the  Eio  Negro. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  borders  of  Venezuela,  the  Rio 
Nesrro  widens  to  half  a  league  in  breadth.  We  were  now 
floating  through  another  country,  yet  our  surroundings 
would  scarcely  reveal  to  us  that  we  had  passed  from  a 
republic  to  an  empire.  Still,  some  things  tell  us  of  a  change. 
We  hear  a  new  language,  the  Portuguese,  and  reckon  in  a 
new  currency.  We  no  longer  estimate  in  Spanish  pesos, 
i-eales,  medios,  and  centavos,  but,  to  otir  utter  bewilder- 
ment, must  compute  in  milreis,  petacas,  vintas,  and  num- 
berless other  denominations  which  are  employed  in  the 
circulatory  medium  of  Brazil.  To  reduce  our  new  cur- 
rency into  Spanish,  and  that  again  into  American  money, 
was  a  complication  of  difficulties  which  not  always  left  us 
with  a  clear  conception,  when  change  was  returned,  as  to 
how  much  we  had  given  for  the  article  purchased. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  we  reached  Coana,  where 
we  again  delayed,  to  have  our  passports  examined.  The 
village,  of  twenty  scattering  huts,  stands  upon  quite  an 
eminence  on  the  left  bank.     We  do  not  see,  in  the  Indo- 


176  VOYAGE  DOWN   THE  EIO  KEGEO. 

Portuguese  settlements  of  the  Rio  Negro,  the  square  so 
characteristic  of  Spanish  towns ;  and  the  houses,  instead 
of  having  their  roofs  formed  with  two  sides,  have  the  slant 
upon  four,  with  a  short  ridge  at  the  top.  While  the  co- 
mandantc  was  absorbed  in  the  mysteries  of  our  passports, 
we  were  partaking  of  a  cup  of  chocolate,  with  which  deli- 
cious beverage  we  were  always  welcomed  to  the  home  of 
the  Portuguese.  This  customary  act  of  hospitality  was  a 
new  featui-e  in  our  experiences,  and  one  of  which  we  heart- 
ily approved.  Supplying  ourselves  with  cobres,  or  coppers, 
the  common  currency  on  the  river,  we  journeyed  on  a 
couple  of  hours,  when  we  lialted  to  breakfast  upon  a  smoked 
peccary,  an  animal  about  the  size  of  a  fox-squirrel.  In 
our  culinary  operations,  where  spits  were  required,  great 
caution  was  requisite  in  their  selection,  as  some  woods 
possess  such  virulent  properties,  tliat  meat  roasted  upon 
them  will  prove  fatal  when  eaten.  Before  partaking  of  a 
meal  our  Indians  were  always  careful  to  bathe  in  the  river; 
or,  when  tliis  coiUd  not  be  done  with  impunity,  to  pour 
water  over  their  persons  with  a  calabash.  The  belief  of 
our  Pao  savant,  that  it  was  irmt/  malo  to  wash  before  eat- 
ing, was  no  part  of  the  creed  of  these  children  of  the  forest. 
Soap  is  unknown  among  them ;  but  a  substitute  is  found 
'm  a  shrub,  the  leaves  of  which,  by  simply  crushing  in  the 
hand,  yield  a  saponaceous  substance  that  answers  equally 
well  for  cleaning  the  skin  or  clothes. 

All  day  our  Indians  pulled  at  the  paddles,  passing  sev- 
eral villages  and  conucos ;  but  nothing  could  be  secured 
for  a  meal  until  evening,  when,  at  a  little  settlement,  we 
purchased,  for  a  few  cobres,  a  lai-ge  fish-head,  from  which 
we  made  a  scanty  rejiast.  For  three  hours  longer  we 
pushed  on,  our  Indians  keeping  time -to  their  paddles  with 
their  wild,  monotonous  chant.  At  length  we  moored  to  a 
rock  in  the  stream,  upon  which  our  men  slept,  while  we 
kept  beneath  our  palm-leaf  covering ;  for  showers  were 


CLIMATE.  177 

frequent  both  by  night  and  day.  The  climate  of  the  Up- 
per Rio  Negro  is  somewhat  peculiar.  The  tropical  sum- 
mer, or  dry  season,  is  almost  unknown,  and  lains  are  nearly 
constant  throughout  the  year.  Especially  is  this  true  in 
the  districts  of  the  rapids,  Avhcre  the  inhabitants  enjoy  but 
little  of  that  delightful  weather  which  for  several  months 
blesses  the  valleys  of  the  Orinoco  and  Amazons.  Five  or 
six  weeks  of  freedom  from  storms  during  the  months  of 
January  and  February,  and  a  few  weeks  about  June,  are 
the  only  breaks  in  the  almost  constant  floods  of  rain.  The 
waters  of  the  Rio  ISTegro  reach  their  highest  level  about 
the  end  of  June.  At  the  cataracts  of  the  river  the  water 
rises  some  twenty  feet  above  its  lowest  ebb,  while  at  San 
Gabriel,  after  having  received  several  tributaries,  it  is 
twenty-five  or  more,  and  at  Barra  the  average  height  is 
over  forty  feet.  About  March,  when  the  Amazons  is  filled 
with  the  floods  of  its  southern  tributaries,  and  while  the 
northern  aflHuents  are  lowest,  the  waters  of  the  former 
block  up  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Negro,  causing  a  stagnation 
and  even  retrograde  movement  of  its  waters. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  at  four  o'clock,  much 
later  than  usual,  we  aroused  our  Indians.  Several  little 
villages  were  passed  during  the  day,  and  at  4  p.  m.  we 
were  at  Guia,  a  small  Indian  settlement,  with  one  Portu 
guese  family,  that  were  bribed  by  a  milreis  (fifty  cents)  to 
])art  with  a  chicken,  all  the  village  could  oft'er  us.  During 
the  afternoon  we  crossed  the  equatorial  lino,  and  floated 
upon  the  waters  of  the  southern  hemisphere.  Had  cir- 
cumstances permitted,  we  would  have  celebrated  the  event 
by  a  sumptuous  feast ;  as  it  was,  we  ate  from  a  rock  our 
scanty  meal  of  turtle  and  mailoca.  The  river  being  free 
from  obstructions,  we  allowed  the  boat  to  drift  with  the 
current  during  the  night;  our  Indians  sleeping  upon  their 
benches.  Before  morning  we  passed  the  Uaupes,  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Rio  Negro,  a  river  which  has  been  made  known 


178  VOYAGE  DO"WN  THE  KIO   NEGRO. 

to  the  -world  through  that  celebrated  English  traveller, 
Mr,  "Wallace,  who  twice  ascended  it,  penetrating  far  toward 
its  source  amid  wild  Indian  tribes,  of  which  he  has  given 
us  such  graphic  and  interesting  accounts.  Five  days' 
journey  from  the  Rio  Negro,  he  encountered  the  first  and 
most  dangerous  falls  of  the  Uaupes,  above  which,  he  says, 
"  the  river  became  full  of  rocks  to  a  degree  to  which  even 
the  rockiest  part  of  the  Rio  I^egro  was  a  trifle."  After 
our  descent  of  the  Great  Cataracts  of  the  Rio  Negro,  we 
realized  Avhat  must  have  been  the  adventurous  experiences 
of  that  bold  explorer  amid  the  torrents  and  cascades  of 
the  Uaupes. 

AVe  now  proceeded  with  greater  rapidity  and  increas- 
ing danger,  as  we  were  entering  the  great  rapids,  and  at 
length  we  came  to  where  the  river  was  filled  with  bowl- 
ders and  rocky  ledges  extending  from  bank  to  bank.  At 
times  we  were  borne  smoothly  and  swiftly  down  the  dark 
current ;  then  we  went  plunging  madly  through  whitened 
whirlpools,  amid  rocks  and  leaping  waters.  On  we  rushed 
down  the  narrow  channels,  formed  by  the  islands  and  rock- 
niasses,  often  barely  escaping  destruction  from  the  ledges 
hidden  beneath  the  sheet  of  foam.  At  1  p.  m,  we  reached 
San  Gabriel,  a  military  post  with  a  fort  and  garrison.  The 
village  occupies  quite  a  commanding  position,  overlooking 
the  rapids  just  below,  which  are  the  principal  ones  of  the 
extended  series  of  the  river,  and  more  dangerous  than 
those  we  had  encountered.  These,  after  a  short  rest,  we 
proceeded  to  pass.  Pushing  into  the  middle  of  the  cur- 
rent, we  w^ere  borne  down  among  the  breakers,  every  man 
straining  at  his  paddle  to  keep  the  boat  rightly  headed, 
and  to  shun  the  rocks  that  studded  the  river.  It  was  with 
a  feeling  of  relief  that  we  at  length  saw  ourselves  riding 
safely  below  the  obstructions,  We  continued  down  the 
river,  plunging  noAV  and  then  into  a  whirling  eddy,  with- 
out a  greater  mishap  than  shipping  a  quantity  of  w^ater. 


GEAND  SCENEEY.  I79 

Toward  evening  we  descended  a  rapid  inferior  only  to  the 
one  at  the  village  of  San  Gabriel,  when,  drawing  up  into 
a  little  cove  upon  a  sandy  beach,  we  gladly  rested  from 
the  fatigues  and  dangers  of  the  day.  Early  in  the  morn- 
ing we  passed  the  last  rapid  on  the  river,  and  our  canoe 
floated  upon  quietly-flowing  waters. 

The  entire  length  of  these  Great  Cataracts  of  the  Rio 
Negro  cannot  be  less  than  forty  miles.  Wallace,  in  his 
interesting  travels  on  the  Rio  Negro,  thus  speaks  of  them  : 
"  The  navigation  of  these  falls  is  of  a  character  quite  dis- 
tinct from  any  thing  in  our  part  of  the  world.  A  person, 
looking  at  the  river,  sees  only  a  rapid  current,  a  few  ed- 
dies, and  small  breakers,  in  which  there  appears  nothing 
very  formidable.  When,  however,  you  are  in  the  midst 
of  them,  you  are  quite  bewildered  with  the  conflicting 
motions  of  the  waters.  Whirling  and  boiling  eddies, 
which  birrst  uj)  from  the  bottom  at  intervals,  as  if  fi'om 
some  subaqueous  explosion,  with  short  cross-waves,  and 
smooth  intervening  j^atches,  almost  make  one  giddy.  On 
one  side  of  the  canoe  there  is  often  a  strong  down-current ; 
while  on  the  other  it  flows  in  an  opposite  direction.  Now 
there  is  a  cross  stream  at  the  bows,  and  a  diagonal  one  at 
the  stern,  with  a  foaming  Scylla  on  one  side  and  a  whirl- 
ing Charybdis  on  the  other.  All  depends  upon  the  pilot, 
who,  well  acquainted  with  every  sunken  rock  and  danger- 
ous whirlpool,  steers  clear  of  all  perils ;  now  directing  the 
crew  to  pull  hard,  now  to  slacken,  as  circumstances  re- 
quire, and  skilfully  preparing  the  canoe  to  receive  the  im- 
petus of  the  cross-currents  that  he  sees  ahead." 

In  the  afternoon  we  stopped  at  the  small  village  of 
Victoria,  upon  the  west  bank,  and  endeavored  to  replenish 
our  exhausted  supplies ;  but,  failing,  we  went  without  food 
for  the  day.  Our  Indians  continued  at  the  paddles  until 
nine  in  the  evening,  when  they  ceased,  and  the  canoe  was 
allowed  to  drift  with  the  current.     This  was  our  usual 


180  VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  KIO  NEGEO. 

manner  of  procedure  after  leaving  San  Gabriel;  for  the 
river  was  no  longer  obstructed  by  rocks,  until  far  down 
toward  Barra ;  and,  although  the  current  was  not  strong, 
we  often  made  one-lialf  the  distance  at  night  that  v/e  did 
during  the  day. 

At  dayliglit  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  we  came  to 
Camhosa,  a  dilapidated  village,  inhabited  by  a  single  Por- 
tuguese lamily,  that  in  this  isolated  spot  of  the  earth,  amid 
ruin  and  desertion,  eked  out  a  miserable  existence.  We 
procured  from  them  some  dried  beef — a  rare  luxury  in 
these  regions.  We  had  eaten  our  last  upon  the  Orinoco. 
A  little  farther  on,  and  we  passed  upon  the  opposite  side, 
to  our  left,  a  collection  of  eight  huts,  called  Wanawaca. 
Drifting  all  night,  we  reached  by  morning  Castanheiro,  a 
nearly-deserted  village,  like  all  of  the  settlements  on  the 
Lower  Rio  Negro,  How  strange  and  sad  it  seems  in  this 
land,  so  greatly  blessed  by  Nature,  with  a  soil  so  produc- 
tive that,  imder  the  improving  hand  of  cultivation,  it 
would  smile  Vv'ith  plenty,  to  see  the  once  populous  toAvns 
almost  deserted  and  falling  to  decay,  and  the  few  remain- 
ing people  starving  for  want  of  food  ! 

From  San  Gabriel  the  river  had  been  growing  more 
picturesque,  lovely  islands  filling  the  stream  in  countless 
numbers,  clothed  with  beautiful  verdure  in  varying  forms 
and  colors.  The  river  was  rapidly  widening,  and,  when 
the  islands  here  and  there  gave  way,  we  looked  doAvn  the 
broad  expanse  of  water  until  the  eye  rested  upon  the 
blank  horizon.  Great  beds  of  aquatic  grass,  like  floating 
meadows,  went  sailing  down  the  current.  Birds  were 
more  frequently  seen  than  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the 
river,  still  they  vrcre  not  abundant.  Parrots,  which  had 
made  their  first  appearance  upon  the  Rio  Negro  near  San 
Gabriel,  morning  and  evening,  flew  across  the  river,  utter- 
ing their  hoarse  cries.  Guacamayas,  the  largest  and  most 
beautiful  species  of  the  parrot  family,  were  occasionally 


A  NAKKOW  ESCAPE.  181 

seen.  One  wc  measured  was,  from  tip  to  tip,  over  three 
feet,  with  a  sj^read  of  Avings  of  three  feet  and  eight  inches. 
The  pkiraage  of  this  bird  glows  in  vivid  colors  of  blue, 
purple,  gi-een,  red,  and  yellow,  and  with  its  long  sweeping 
tail  it  presents  a  gaudy  apjicarance.  They  generally  go 
in  pairs ;  of  the  thousands  we  saw,  only  once  or  twice  did 
Ave  observe  three  in  company.  Their  tenacity  of  life  is 
marvellous.  We  once  wounded  one  with  a  charge  of 
shot,  put  a  rifle-ball  into  its  body,  and  tAVO  more  through 
its  immense  head,  without,  apparently,  much  weakening 
effect ;  for  it  then  mounted  a  log,  and  showed  fight.  Our 
Indians  finally  dispatched  it  with  their  knives ;  but  not 
until  it  had  nearly  succeeded  in  taking  revenge  ujDon  its 
assailants  by  firing  with  its  claws  one  of  our  loaded  guns, 
the  ball  narrowly  escaping  one  of  the  party. 

One  CA'ent  of  the  day  did  not  afford  many  pleasurable 
emotions.  Rowing  up  for  a  rest  beneath  the  shade  of  the 
forest-bank,  a  naked  Indian  Avas  spied  gazing  out  upon  us. 
It  was  the  brother  of  our  guide,  from  whom  he  had  been 
long  separated,  and  who  chanced  upon  this  spot  as  we 
halted.  With  that  cold  indifference  characteristic  of  their 
race,  they  met  as  if  they  had  but  a  few  hours  before  parted. 
When  Ave  were  prepared  to  go,  our  Indian  Avas  motioned 
to  the  boat.  In  AA^ords  more  pathetic  than  his  actions  had 
exhibited,  he  replied,  "  Would  you  separate  a  brother 
from  a  brother?"  As  the  stranger  Indian  would  not  ac- 
company us,  and  argiiment  Avith  the  other  Avas  of  no  aA'ail, 
we  reluctantly  left  Avith  one  man  less  as  a  result  of  this 
unexpected  episode,  which  Avas  not  a  pleasant  one,  Avhen 
we  reflected  that  we  were  now  Avithout  a  guide  or  inter- 
preter to  navigate  an  unknown  river,  encountering  Indian 
tribes  and  people  whose  languages  were  equally  strange 
to  us. 

On  the  morning  of  the  23d  Ave  reached  San  Isabel, 
another  almost  deserted  A'illacre  Avith  but  three  or  four 


182  VOYAGE  DOWN   THE  RIO   NEGEO. 

hovels  inhabited.  We  sought,  among  the  few  Indians  re- 
maining in  the  miserable  huts,  swallowed  up  by  weeds  and 
the  encroaching  forest,  for  a  pilot  to  take  the  place  of  the 
one  who  had  so  unceremoniously  forsaken  us ;  but  none 
could  be  induced  to  accompany  us,  nor  did  we  meet  with 
better  success  in  our  many  attempts  to  secure  one  after- 
ward. 

Conucos  of  India-rubber  gatherers  were  now  frequent- 
ly met  Avith,  but  all  were  found  wonderfully  destitute  of 
food.  We  spent  some  little  time  at  several ;  observing 
with  interest  the  wonders  of  rubber-making.  The  tree 
from  which  this  product  is  obtained  has  a  tall,  straight 
trunk,  with  a  smooth,  gray  bark,  beautiful  foliage  of  ter- 
nate  leaves,  and  attains  a  height  of  seventy  to  one  hun- 
dred feet.  The  process  of  manufacturing  the  seringa,  or 
rubber,  is  simple.  A  withe,  or  slender  twig,  is  bound 
tightly  around  the  tree,  higher  up  on  one  side  than  upon 
the  other.  Longitudinal  gashes  are  then  made  in  the 
trunk,  from  which  a  whitish,  cream-like  gum  exudes,  and 
is  caught  in  a  small  clay  cup  j^laced  upon  the  ground. 
Each  incision  yields  daily  about  half  a  gill :  new  gashes 
are  made  every  morning.  The  cups,  when  full,  are  emp- 
tied by  the  serlngero,  or  rubber-gatherer,  into  a  large 
vessel,  which  is  carried  at  once  to  his  conuco,  and  the  sub- 
stance immediately  formed  into  the  desired  shape,  as  it 
quickly  coagulates.  With  a  fire  built  from  the  small  nuts 
of  the  Inaga-palm  {Jfaximiliana  regia),  upon  one  side, 
and  his  pot  of  milk  upon  the  other,  the  seringero  seats 
himself  upon  a  rough  bench  and  commences  operations. 
With  a  cup  he  poiirs  the  fluid  over  the  mold,  to  which  a 
thin  coating  adheres ;  then  holds  it  for  a  moment  in  the 
smoke,  Avbich  dries  and  colors  the  rubber,  and  repeats  the 
process  until  his  work  is  completed.  The  mold  is  con- 
structed either  of  wood  or  clay  ;  if  of  the  first,  it  is  coated 
with  clay,  that  the  rubber  may  be  more  easily  removed  ; 


BRAZIL-NUTS.  183 

if  the  latter  be  employed,  it  is  washed  out.  Shoes  and 
models  of  birds  and  fishes  are  readily  made ;  but  the  com- 
mon form  in  which  the  seringa  is  prepared  for  commerce 
is  in  long  sheets  or  oval  pieces,  made  by  using  a  paddle- 
shaped  mould.  For  a  day  or  two,  vrhile  the  substance  re- 
mains soft,  it  readily  receives  impressions,  and  fanciful 
figures  are  often  neatly  traced  upon  it.  The  tree  yields 
its  gum  equally  well  at  all  times,  but  the  dry  season,  or 
what  corresponds  to  such  upon  the  Rio  Negro,  the  months 
during  which  the  least  rain  falls,  is  generally  devoted  to 
the  manufacture  of  the  rubber. 

Besides  the  large  production  of  seringa  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Rio  Negro,  great  quantities  of  sarsaparilla — 
the  root  of  a  vine  found  principally  along  the  tributaries 
of  the  river — and  Brazil-nuts,  are  annually  collected.  The 
last  mentioned  is  the  fruit  of  the  Bertholletia  excelsa,  one 
of  the  noblest  monarchs  of  the  forest.  Monkeys,  in  their 
perambulations  for  the  wild  fruits  of  the  forest,  pass  these 
by,  as  no  ingenuity  of  theirs  will  gain  them  access  to  the 
nuts,  which  are  enclosed  in  a  hard,  ligneous  shell,  that  the 
natives  break  open  with  an  axe.  The  tree  requires  about 
eighteen  months  for  the  complete  maturing  of  its  fruit 
from  the  bud.  "The  fruits,  which  are  nearly  as  hard  and 
heavy  as  cannon-balls,  fall  with  tremendous  force  from  the 
height  of  a  hundred  feet,  crashing  through  the  branches 
and  undergrowth,  and  snapping  ofi"  large  boughs  which 
they  happen  to  strike  against.  Persons  are  sometimes 
killed  by  them,  and  accidents  are  not  unfrequcnt  among 
the  Indians  engaged  in  gathering  them." — (  Wallace.) 

Christmas  brought  us  remembrances  of  home,  and,  as 
we  partook  of  a  simple  fare,  our  thoughts  naturally  re- 
curred to  the  happy  gatherings  and  joyous  festivities 
which  mark  the  day  in  our  own  distant  land.  It  was  sun- 
set when  we  left  the  island  where  we  had  tarried  for  our 
meal,  and,  pushing  out  into  the  current,  started  upon  our 


184  VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  EIO  NEGEO. 

nightly  float.  Noiselessly,  and  unconscious  of  any  move- 
ment, we  were  borne  down  the  stream,  with  the  out- 
lines of  the  forest-walls  faintly  visible  in  the  distance, 
and  a  strange,  starlit  sky  above  us.  "Nothing,"  truth- 
fully says  Humboldt,  "  awakens  in  the  traveller  a  livelier 
remembrance  of  the  immense  distance  by  which  he  is 
separated  from  his  country,  than  the  aspect  of  an  un- 
known firmament."  He  beholds  a  new  heaven  as  well  as 
a  new  earth.  He  traces  the  stars  and  beautiful  constel- 
lations that  circle  the  southern  pole,  and  beholds,  with 
feelings  of  wonder,  the  Clouds  of  Magellan — flushes  of 
myriads  of  distant  lights  that  adorn  these  heavens.  But, 
of  the  bright  clusters,  that  of  the  Cross  especially  fixes 
the  attention,  and  awakens  the  deepest  emotions.  "  The 
Portuguese  and  the  Spaniards  arc  peculiarly  susceptible 
of  this  feeling ;  a  religious  sentiment  attaches  them  to  a 
constellation,  the  form  of  which  recalls  the  sign  of  the 
faith  planted  by  their  ancestors  in  the  deserts  of  the  New 
World.  The  two  great  stars  which  mark  the  summit  and 
the  foot  of  the  Cross  having  nearly  the  same  right  ascen- 
sion, it  follows  that  the  constellation  is  almost  perpen- 
dicular at  the  moment  when  it  passes  the  meridian.  This 
circumstance  is  known  to  the  people  of  every  nation  situ- 
ated beyond  the  tropics,  or  in  the  southern  hemisphere. 
It  has  been  observed  at  what  hour  of  the  night,  in  different 
seasons,  the  Cross  is  erect  or  inclined.  It  is  a  time-piece 
Avhich  advances  very  regularly  nearly  four  minutes  a  day, 
and  no  other  group  of  stars  affords  to  the  naked  eye  an 
observation  of  time  so  easily  made.  How  often  have  we 
heard  our  guides  exclaim,  in  the  savannas  of  Venezuela, 
'  Midnight  is  past,  the  Cross  begins  to  bend  ! '  How  often 
those  words  reminded  us  of  that  affecting  scene,  where 
Paul  and  Virginia,  seated  near  the  source  of  the  river  of 
Lataniers,  conversed  together  for  the  last  time,  and  where 


PICTUEESQUE  SCENEKY.  185 

the  old  man,  at  the  sight  of  the  Southern  Cross,  -warns 
them  that  it  is  time  to  separate."  * 

Upon  the  morning  of  the  27th,  Ave  left  the  northern 
bank  of  the  river,  which  we  did  not  see  again  until  the 
day  before  reaching  Barra,  or  Manaos,  as  called  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Lower  Rio  Negro.  We  were  told  that 
the  left  sho?e  was  almost  uninhabited,  and  that  we  would 
be  imable  to  secure  provisions.  We  therefore  determined 
upon  crossing  to  Barcellos,  and  following  the  southern 
bank  the  remainder  of  the  way.  The  river  was  now 
spread  out  to  a  great  breadth,  and  filled  with  islands,  so 
that  both  banks  could  no  longer  be  seen  at  once.  We  do 
not  recollect  navigating  through  more  picturesque  scenerj' ; 
there  was  a  wild  beauty  in  those  lovely  glands,  covered 
with  graceful  palm-trees  and  a  growth  of  vegetation  so 
luxuriant  that  the  eye  could  not  penetrate  within  their 
dark  recesses.  Remove  the  palms,  and  we  could  have 
fancied  ourselves  floating  through  the  Thousand  Islands 
of  the  St.  Lawrence.  During  the  forenoon  our  Indians 
killed  with  their  palancas  a  curious,  circular,  flat  fish,  called 
arrala.  '  This  strange  ichthyological  creature,  fifteen  inch- 
es in  diameter,  with  a  thickness  not  to  exceed  three 
inches,  had  a  cylindrical  tail  a  foot  in  length,  armed  with 
long,  thorn-like  appendages,  which,  in  its  dying  rage,  it 
fastened  in  its  body  with  such  force  as  to  be  removed  with 
difficulty.  It  was  most  unsavory  eating,  but,  for  want  of 
something  better,  we  halted  at  noon  upon  a  playa-island, 
collected  drift-wood  for  a  fire,  cooked  our  game,  and  en- 
joyed our  only  meal  for  the  day.  We  then  continued  our 
wanderings  among  the  forest-islands,  in  the  vain  attempt 
to  reach  the  southern,  shore,  until  the  darkness  overtook 
us,  when  we  fiistened  to  a  point  of  land  and  waited  in  our 
boat  for  the  morning.  Again  our  Indians  were  toiling  at 
the  paddles,  now  making  way  against  the  current,  or  wiud- 

*  "Humboldt's  Travels,"  vol.  i.,  p.  135. 


186  VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  EIO  NEGEO. 

ing  here  and  there  with  it  through  the  labyrinth  of  chan- 
nels which  constitute  the  countless  arms  of  this  wonderful 
river.  Often,  when  supposing  ourselves  alongside  of  the 
main  shore,  we  would  come  to  a  break  in  the  land,  show- 
ing that  we  had  only  been  coasting  along  an  island.  An- 
other line  of  coast  would  also  in  turn  dispel  our  illusions 
by  another  opening,  that  indicated  the  promised  land  to 
be  still  beyond. 

Ater  a  day  and  a  half  spent  in  our  attempts  at  crossing 
the  river,  we  came  in  sight  of  Barcellos ;  our  approach 
being  first  made  known  to  us  by  our  Indians  commencing 
to  dress  themselves,  their  keen  eyes  having  discovered  the 
town  upon  a  high  bluff  in  the  distance,  long  before  it  came 
within  the  rang^  of  our  less  acute  vision.  We  arrived  at 
a  fortunate  time,  for  the  inhabitants  were  gathered  from 
their  conucos  to  pass  the  Cliristmas  fiesta,  and  the  place 
was  well  supplied  with  food  for  the  occasion.  Barcellos 
was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Rio  Negro, 
but  is  now  a  sad  picture  of  fallen  houses,  streets  overgrown 
with  weeds  and  bushes,  with  a  thick  jungle  that  penetrates 
through  the  centre  of  the  town.  Some  thirty  houses  still 
remain,  with  now  and  then  one  whitewashed,  and  covered 
with  a  tiled  roof.  Most  of  them  are  occupied  during  fiestas, 
but,  when  these  are  over,  the  people  are  scattered  to  their 
conucos  through  the  forest,  when  the  place  presents  a  still 
more  deserted  and  forlorn  aspect.  A  small  church  indi- 
cated the  presence  of  the  padres,  who,  with  indefatigable 
zeal,  have  extended  their  labors  to  most  of  the  Indian 
tribes  of  the  country.  Blocks  of  marble  lying  upon  the 
shore,  and  bearing  the  insignia  of  Portugal,  attracted  our 
attention.  They  had  been  imported  from  Europe  when 
Brazil  Avas  yet  a  Portuguese  colony,  and  were  intended  for 
government  buildings,  which,  however,  were  never  erected. 
Seeking  the  house  of  the  ecclesiastic,  we  were  kindly  wel- 
comed ;  and  the  padre,  upon  learning  that  for  two  days  we 


GEOLOGY   OF  THE  RIO   NEGRO.  IR^ 

bad  been  almost  without  food,  presented  us  with  a  large 
turtle,  which  our  Indians  carried  to  the  boat,  rejoicing  in 
the  prospect  of  a  sumptuous  meal.  Hospitality  is  one  of 
the  prominent  virtues  of  the  people  of  this  country.  They 
often  have  but  little  they  can  give,  but  that  is  freely  shared 
Avith  the  stranger  who  chances  among  them. 

Furnishing  ourselves  with  turtles  and  other  supplies 
sufficient  for  five  or  six  days,  the  time  supposed  necessary 
in  which  to  reach  Manaos,  we  left  Barcellos.  When  out 
of  sight  of  the  town,  our  Indians  undressed  themselves, 
and,  rolling  up  their  garments,  tucked  them  carefully  away, 
for  use  upon  our  arrival  at  the  next  village.  We  were  now 
probably  upon  the  widest  portion  of  the  Rio  Negro.  The 
breadth  of  the  river  in  its  broadest  parts  has  been  esti- 
mated by  some  as  great  as  ten  leagues.  Wallace,  in  speak- 
ing of  the  river,  says  he  is  convinced  that  in  some  places 
it  is  between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  wide,  and  for  a  con- 
siderable part  of  its  course  from  Manaos  to  San  Isabel, 
fifteen  to  twenty.  By  persons  Avell  acquainted  with  the 
Rio  Negro,  we  were  informed  that  at  Barcellos,  where  it 
probably  spreads  out  to  its  greatest  breadth,  the  opposite 
shores  are  about  four  leagues  apart.  Our  own  experiences 
in  crossing  the  river  confirmed  us  in  the  correctness  of 
this  estimate.  In  the  lower  part  of  its  course,  the  fall  is 
so  slight  that  the  current,  as  you  approach  the  mouth,  is 
scarcely  perceptible,  and  often  the  voyager  is  in  doubt 
whether  he  is  ascending  or  descending  the  river.  In  the 
season  of  greatest  floods  many  of  its  islands  are  beneath 
its  surface,  presenting  the  appearance  of  forest  growing  out 
of  the  water,  while  its  low  banks  are,  in  parts,  overflowed, 
and  wide  strips  of  the  country  upon  either  side  inundated. 

On  the  night  of  the  28th,  our  float  was  interrupted  sev- 
eral hours  by  a  strong  wind  which  blew  up  the  river. 
Breezes  on  the  Rio  Negro  are  but  little  felt  above  Barcel- 
los, but  below  that  point  they  are  quite   constant  up  the 


188  VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  RIO  NEGEO. 

stream,  assisting  the  upward-bound  voyager,  but  often 
driving  back  upon  its  course,  in  spite  of  paddles,  the  de- 
scending canoe. 

Upon  tlie  morning  of  the  last  day  of  the  year,  we 
passed  Carvoeiro,  and  two  hours  later  lauded  for  breakfast 
iTpon  some  granitic  rocks,  the  first  of  any  kind  that  had 
appeared  below  San  Isabel.  Not  far  below  this  point  the 
Rio  Branco,  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Rio  Negro,  pours 
in  its  white  waters  from  the  north.  This  river  abounds  in 
the  great  tortuga  and  other  species  of  tortoises,  which, 
during  the  season  when  they  resort  to  the  playa  to  deposit 
their  eggs,  draw  thither  the  inhabitants  of  the  Rio  Negro, 
and  the  settlements  that  exist  upon  its  own  banks,  for  the 
purpose  of  supplying  themselves  with  food  against  the 
long  dearth  of  the  rainy  period.  For  three  hundred  miles 
from  its  mouth,  the  Rio  Branco  is  said  to  be  unbroken 
with  rapids,  and  the  country  through  which  it  flows, 
densely  wooded.*  Above  this,  obstructions  prevent  its 
navigation,  excepting  with  light  canoes,  and  open  savannas 
spi'ead  out  from  its  banks,  aftbrding  pasturage  to  herds  of 
wild  cattle  from  which  the  inhabitants  of  Manaos  obtain 
their  supply  of  beef.  A  portage  of  a  couple  of  hours  con- 
nects the  head-waters  of  the  river  with  those  of  the 
Essequibo.  f 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  and  several  hours  below  the  Rio 
Branco,  we  reached  Pedrero  (sometimes  written  Pedrei- 
ro),  a  village  of  twenty  houses,  the  highest  point  reached 
by  x\gassiz  in  his  excursion  on  the  "  Ibicuhy  "  up  the  Rio 

*  Upon  the  banks  of  tins  river  is  found  the  remarkable  mavaponima, 
"  tortoisc-sliell  wood,"  a  most  beautiful  wood  much  employed  in  the  arts. 

f  Upon  the  Putaro,  a  tributary  of  the  Essequibo  River,  there  has  re- 
cently been  discovered  (April,  ISTO),  by  Mr.  C.  B.  Brown,  of  the  Geo- 
logical Survey  of  British  Guiana,  a  fall  of  over  eight  hundred  feet  in 
height,  which  is  said  to  have  but  few  rivals  in  picturesqueness  and  gran- 
deur. 


LOOKING  FOK  FOOD.  189 

Negro.  On  the  following  forenoon  we  came  to  Aidon,  a 
collection  of  half  a  dozen  huts,  and  landed  upon  ledges  of 
sandstone  which  form  the  coast.  Just  before  reaching 
here  we  had  passed  rocks  of  pure  hornblende,  which  jutted 
out  prominently  from  the  bank  into  the  river.  Farther 
down,  on  the  following  day,  we  stopped  to  examine  sand- 
stone clifis,  worn  by  the  action  of  the  water  into  grotesque 
caves  and  excavations.  Brown  hematite  was  abundant  in 
the  rocks ;  fragments  and  smooth  globules  of  which,  left 
by  the  disintegration  of  the  sandstone,  formed  the  beach. 
The  geology  of  the  Rio  Negro  is  simple.  Above  the  Rio 
Branco  granitic  rock  forms  the  surface  ;  at  Pedrero  this 
passes  into  a  metamorphic  granitoid  rock ;  below  tliat 
point  sandstone  covers  all  indications  of  granite.  Upon 
tliis  lies  a  red-clay  deposit,  often  rising  into  considerable 
bluffs. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th,  at  a  cluster  of  seven  or 
eight  dwellings,  we  landed  in  search  of  food.  The  time 
for  which  we  had  provisioned  our  vessel  at  Barcellos  had 
expired,  and  our  last  turtle,  with  what  else  we  had,  was 
consumed  the  day  before.  We  learned  that  we  were  still 
three  or  more  days  distant  from  Manaos,  wnth  but  little 
prospect  of  obtaining  much  in  the  commissary  line  before 
reaching  there.  In  one  of  the  huts  we  entered  the  inmates 
were  making  a  joyous  meal  iipon  a  young  alligator,  and 
in  another  a  couple  of  monkeys  with  skins  removed,  but 
with  hands  and  hea'ds  still  attached  to  their  blackened 
bodies,  looking  like  infants  hung  up  by  their  heels,  were 
roasting  over  a  fire,  preparatory  for  a  cannibalistic  feast. 
Amid  this  Avretched  destitution  we  were  glad  to  secure  a 
small  piece  of  (\r\ed  jnrarucu,  a  monster  fish  (Sudis  gigas) 
common  in  the  waters  of  the  Amazons  and  Lower  Rio 
Negro.  It  has  a  small  head,  with  a  body  five  to  eight 
feet  in  length,  covered  with  heavy  scales.  The  flesh  is 
oxcecdinglv  coarse,  excepting  portions  which  are  masses 


190  VOYAGE  DOWN   THE  EIO  NEGRO. 

of  solid  fat.  With  mafioca  it  constitutes  the  chief  article 
of  subsistence  of  the  inhabitants  along  the  rivers  where 
found,  besides  being  salted  and  dried  in  large  quantities 
for  the  Para  market  and  cities  along  the  coast ;  the  long 
strips  and  broad,  slab-like  pieces  being  packed  in  bundles 
for  transportation.  The  Lower  Rio  Negro  is  most  thinly 
inhabited.  We  often  went  days  Avithout  meeting  a  canoe 
upon  the  river ;  and  the  country  seemed  wild  and  deso- 
late in  the  extreme.  Our  progress  was  slow,  being  great- 
ly retarded  by  the  easterly  trade-winds  sweeping  up  from 
the  Amazons,  while  the  rocks  which  now  filled  the  stream 
jirevented  our  drifting  with  the  current  at  night.  As  some 
one  has  truthfully  observed,  one  must  be  an  ardent  lover 
of  Nature  to  travel  through  these  wild  and  uninhabited 
regions  ;  otherwise  but  little  compensation  will  be  received 
for  all  the  toils  and  privations  incident  to  such  a  journey. 
Apprehensive  lest  we  should  be  too  late  for  the  Ama- 
zonian steamer,  which  we  learned,  from  canoes  upward 
bound,  would  sail  from  Manaos  for  Para  on  or  about  the 
8th  of  the  month,  we  induced  our  Indians  to  work  through 
the  night  of  the  5th.  The  coming  day  the  wind  was  strong 
and  against  us,  and  our  progress  consequently  slow  and 
laborious,  notwithstanding  we  coasted  close  to  the  shore, 
which  rose  here  in  high,  abrupt  cliffs.  A  small  piece  of 
pirarucu-fish,  which  we  divided  among  ourselves,  with  a 
little  dry  mafioca,  was  the  only  food  taken  during  the 
day.  Just  before  sunset  we  emerged  from  the  islands 
among  which  we  had  been  confined  so  long,  and  entered 
upon  the  open  river,  that  spread  out  like  a  lake,  ten  miles 
or  more  in  breadth.  Throughout  the  night  our  Indians 
continued  at  their  paddles,  resting  only  a  couple  of  hours 
toward  morning,  when  they  again  resumed  their  places, 
toiling  all  day  against  a  strong  head-wind  and  heavy  sea. 
Several  times  we  scaled  the  high  bluff  in  search  of  food, 
whenever  a  hut  appeared  at  its  top ;  but  not  a  single  mor- 


MANAOS.  191 

sel  did  we  have  for  the  day.  At  3  r.  m.  we  came  to  where 
the  Rio  Negro  narrows  to  a  mile  in  breadth,  the  waves 
breaking  in  foam  upon  a  wild,  rocky  coast.  The  winds 
were  sweeping  so  violently  through  the  strait  that  we  were 
obliged  to  delay  several  hours,  and  then  with  considerable 
difficulty  we  made  the  passage,  and  entered  another  great 
bay  of  white-capped  water.  Night  at  length  came  on,  but 
our  faithful  Indians  did  not  cease  their  labors.  Extended 
playas  stretched  along  the  now  low  and  partially-submerged 
shores,  in  passing  which  our  natives  would  lay  in  their 
paddles  and  take  to  the  palancas.  Hungry  from  our  fast- 
ings, we  threw  ourselves  upon  the  rough  poles  of  our  couch. 
It  was  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  we  were  awak- 
ened by  our  canoe  grating  the  beach.  No  town  could  be 
seen,  and  we  were  about  to  ask  the  cause  of  our  stopping, 
Avhen  the  ringing  of  a  bell  was  heard,  breaking  the  still- 
ness of  the  early  morning.  It  was  a  welcome  sound,  for 
it  told  us  that  our  long  wanderings  of  jveary  months  were 
at  length  terminated.  We  looked  around  and  saw  that 
our  exhausted  Indians  had  thrown  themselves  upon  the 
sand.  We  allowed  them  to  rest  until  break  of  day,  when 
arousing  them  we  rounded  the  point  of  land  in  our  front, 
and  were  at  Manaos. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  located  upon  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  ten  miles  from  the  Amazons,  It  contains  a 
mixed  population  of  two  thousand,  the  principal  elements 
being  Portuguese,  Indian,  and  Negro.  The  town  is  trav- 
ersed by  two  ravines,  spanned  by  quite  substantial  bridges, 
the  first  we  had  seen  since  leaving  Valencia.  They  lend 
quite  an  artistic  appearance  to  the  place  as  viewed  from 
the  river.  A  large  cathedral  is  also  in  process  of  erection, 
and  has  been  for  the  last  dozen  years.  It  seems  strangely 
out  of  proportion  to  the  present  population  of  Manaos ; 
but  it  is  probable  that  some  sage  padre  has  had  sufficient 
prevision  to  see  that  the  town  is  destined  to  become,  from 


192  VOYAGE  DOWN   THE  EIO   NEGEO. 

its  location,  one  of  tlie  largest  and  most  impoi-tant  in  the 
Amazonian  Valley,  and  that  the  structure  is  being  adapted 
to  the  probable  exigencies  of  the  future. 

Manaos  possesses  what  is  rarely  to  be  found  in  the 
heart  of  the  Amazonian  valley — a  water-fall.  So  level  is 
this  great  plain,  that  the  sound  of  falling  water  never 
comes  to  the  ear.  The  voyager  upon  the  sluggish  current 
of  the  Lower  Rio  Negro  longs  for  the  sight  of  clear,  lea2:)ing 
water.  At  Manaos  he  can  have  this  desire  gratified,  dur- 
ing certain  seasons  of  the  year.  A  short  walk  of  two  miles 
over  a  forest-path  brings  you  to  a  little  cascade.  We  say 
it  may  be  seen  only  during  a  portion  of  the  year,  because, 
as  the  falls  are  scarcely  ten  feet  high,  when  the  Amazons 
rises,  they  are,  as  Agassiz  expresses  it,  "  drowned  out." 

In  our  rambles  though  Manaos  on  the  day  of  our  arri- 
val, Ave  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  be  accosted  by  a 
gentleman  in  English.  He  was  the  owner  of  a  large  es- 
tate upon  the  soutjiern  bank  of  the  Rio  Negro,  and  from 
him  we  learned  that  a  party  of  half  a  dozen  Americans 
had  recently  arrived  in  the  place.  They  were  Southern- 
ers, and  prominent  ex-Confederate  officers,  who  had  emi- 
grated to  Brazil,  where,  with  slavery  for  their  corner-stone, 
they  purposed  founding  a  colony.  Dr.  Dowsing,  the  leader 
of  the  expatriated  party,  had  obtained  for  this  purpose  a 
grant  of  land  from  the  Brazilian  Government,  wherever  in 
the  Amazonian  Valley  he  might  choose  to  locate.  Others 
were  expected  to  join  them  from  the  States  as  soon  as  a 
site  should  be  selected  for  a  settlement.  The  Rio  Branco 
had  been,  at  first,  decided  upon,  but  some  considerations 
had  led  to  a  change  of  plans,  and  they  were  now  prepar- 
ing to  ascend  one  of  the  southern  tributaries  of  the  Ama- 
zons. 

From  this  company  of  Americans  we  learned  that  the 
Quito  party  of  our  expedition  had,  two  weeks  before, 
stopped  ?.t  Manaos  upon  their  way  down  the  Amazons. 


LEAVE  MANAOS.  I93 

This  -was  the  first  intelligence  of  them  received  since  oi;r 
separation  at  New  York.  They  had  succeeded  in  crossing 
the  Andes,  and  in  reaching  the  Rio  Napo,  one  of  the  north- 
ern tributaries  of  the  Amazons.  But  our  joy  at  hearing 
of  their  success  was  saddened  by  the  information  that 
one  of  their  number  had  been  buried  upon  the  Andes. 
We  were  unable  to  determine,  from  the  description  of  our 
informants,  who  were  the  surviving  members  of  the  party. 
With  this  uncertainty  we  left  Manaos,  January  10th,  upon 
the  steamer  Belem,  hoping  to  join  our  friends  at  Para 
before  they  should  sail  for  home. 

Having  now  crossed  the  path  of  the  Quitonian  party 
of  our  expedition,  we  will  close  this  sketch  of  the  Vene- 
zuelian  division,  to  give  an  account  of  their  experiences 
among  the  Andes  and  upon  the  Great  River. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

FROM     PAKAMA    TO     BODEGAS. 

Aspinwall. — Across  the  Istbmus. — Tropical  Vegetation.— Panama. — Upon 
the  Pacific. — Paita. — Peruvian  Coast. — Ancient  Sea-Beaches. — Causes 
of  Sterility  and  Low  Temperature. — Keturn  Northward. — Forest. — 
Guayaquil. — Preparations  for  Climbing  the  Andes. — Scenery  of  the 
Guayas. — First  View  of  Chimborazo. — Niglit-Scene  upon  the  Kiver. 

We  liacl  "been  only  nine  days  upon  the  Atlantic,  when 
we  were  greeted  by  the  low  hills  of  the  Isthmus  of  Pana- 
ma, skirtmg  the  soiithern  horizon.  Clouds  hung  around 
the  highest  points,  through  which  the  sun  would  occasion- 
ally break  and  shoot  along  the  wooded  slopes,  rendering 
more  vivid  the  dark  emerald  coloring  of  the  forest,  that 
contrasted  beautifully  with  the  white  lines  of  surf  break- 
ing along  the  shore.  A  line  of  low,  white  buildings  upon 
a  marshy  coast  indicated  the  site  of  Aspinwall.  Drawing 
nearer,  we  could  discern  the  diminutive  cabins  of  the  ne- 
groes, half  embowered  by  the  rank,  encroaching  vegetation 
of  the  surrounding  marsh.  The  luxuriant  banana,  whose 
drooping  leaves  seemed  striving  to  conceal  the  rich,  yellow 
clusters  of  ripening  fruit,  and  the  palm  tossing  out  from 
the  top  of  its  slender  shaft  a  beautiful  tuft  of  feathery 
leaves,  which  dipped  gracefully  in  the  slight  breeze, 
stamped  the  tropical  character  of  the  scenery. 

Our  steamer,  in  approaching  her  moorage,  unfortu- 
nately grounded,  and  we  were  obliged  to  pass  the  night 


PANAMA.  195 

upon  shipboard.  The  follow uig  morning  we  were  placed 
ashore,  and,  stepping  upon  the  open,  cane-seated  cars 
awaiting  us,  we  were  borne  swiftly  toward  the  Pacific. 
What  wonders  does  Nature  here  present !  We  felt  as 
though  transferred  to  another  world.  The  vegetation,  so 
different  from  our  northern,  so  varied,  wild,  and  luxuriant, 
impressed  us  at  each  turn  with  new  revelations  of  its 
beauty  and  prodigality.  Springing  from  the  reeking  soil 
stood  the  palm-like  tree-fern,  wdiich  all  our  associations  had 
placed  far  back  in  those  strange,  endogenous  forests  of 
the  carboniferous  age ;  vines  festooned  them  heavily, 
while  brilliant  orchidaceous  plants  enriched  the  drapery ; 
palms  crowned  each  little  rise,  lifting  their  heads  above 
the  sea  of  verdure,  formed  by  trees  presenting  an  aspect 
similar  to  that  of  our  nortliern  woodlands,  only  denser 
and  freer  in  growth,  richer  and  darker  in  color.  But  we 
must  not  anticipate ;  for  we  shall  find  all  repeated  in  the 
vegetation  of  the  equatorial  regions,  even  far  surpassed 
by  the  tropical  forest  of  the  Guayas  and  Amazons. 

After  a  ride  of  three  hours  over  a  sinuous  road,  we 
fin^i  ourselves  in  the  picturesque  old  town  of  Panama. 
Besides  its  old  walls,  overrun  with  vines,  and  its  anti- 
quated buildings,  it  claims  the  prestige  of  a  romantic  his- 
tory, associating  itself  wdth  the  wild  adventures  of  the 
bold  conquistadores.  Panama  is  pleasantly  located.  As 
seen  upon  an  approach  from  the  railroad,  it  presents  quite 
an  attractive  appearance,  nestled  close  to  the  shore,  with 
the  bay  as  a  watery  perspective ;  viewed  from  the  harbor, 
it  has  a  fine  background  of  sloping  hills. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  the  11th,  the  steamer  "  Panama," 
of  the  British  South  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company, 
moved  slowly  from  her  moorings  off  the  little  islet  of  Ta- 
boga,  embraced  by  the  bay  of  Panama,  and  commenced 
to  gently  bow  to  the  low,  deep  swell  of  the  Pacific.  It 
was  a  beautiful,  tropical  night ;  the  moonlit  bay,  one  which 


196  FROM  PANAMA  TO  BODEGAS. 

vies  in  picturesqueness  Avith  that  of  Naples  and  Rio  Janei- 
ro, set  with  islands  resting  upon  their  reflection  in  the  sil- 
vered water,  was  invested  with  a  beauty  only  to  be  found 
beneath  a  tropical  sky.  As  the  land  slowly  withdrew  into 
the  rich,  mellow  haze,  we  fell  to  watching  the  bright 
sparkle  of  the  moonlight  upon  the  ripj^ling  water,  and  the 
dull,  phosphorescent  gleam  playing  in  our  wake,  born 
from  the  myriads  of  animalcula  which  swarm  these 
waters.*  Each  evening  we  observed  with  interest  the 
familiar  constellations  of  the  northern  heavens,  as  night 
by  night  they  took  a  lower  position,  and  new  clusters  ap- 
peared above  the  southern  horizon.  Just  before  we  crossed 
the  equator,  the  polar  star,  which  we  had  watched  as  the 
last  heaven-mark  of  our  northern  home,  sank  from  our 
view. 

In  passing  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  we  left  be- 
hind us  those  storms  and  sudden  squalls  which  render 
navigation  so  unpleasant  upon  northern  waters.  The  days 
were  uniformly  pleasant,  the  nights  clear  and  beautiful, 
and  the  heat  of  a  vertical  sun  was  tempered  by  the  strong 
trade- winds  which  met  its  constantly  from  the  south.  The 
third  day  from  Panama  we  passed  the  point  of  St.  Helena, 
the  most  western  cape  of  Ecuador  (or  Equator),  which 
presents  the  appearance  of  a  vast  artificial  fortification 
frowning  threateningly  upon  the  opening  bay  of  Guaya- 
quil. The  morning  of  the  14th  we  were  abreast  the  Peru- 
vian coast.  The  long  line  of  crumbling,  gray  clifis  re- 
ceded into  verdureless  plains,  relieved  only  by  narrow 
bauds  of  vegetation  which  marked  the  course  of  some  little 
stream,  fed  by  the  moister  heights  of  the  Cordilleras.  In 
vain  the  traveller  looks  for  the  towering  ranges  of  the 
Andes,  for  heavy  clouds  hang  enviously  about  them. 

*  Phosphorescence  has  been  generally  supposed  to  be  the  product  of 
the  vital  force  possessed  by  microscopic  organisrcs.  Darwin,  however, 
supposes  it  to  he  the  result  of  the  decomposition  of  the  organic  particles. 


PAITA.  19^ 

Entering  a  small  bay,  which  appeared  as  though 
scooped  out  by  the  action  of  the  waves,  we  discovered, 
crowded  between  the  gray  clifls  and  the  sea,  half  buried 
beneath  the  drifting  sands  of  the  desert,  the  wretched 
town  of  Paita.  The  first  question  which  the  traveller  sug- 
gests to  himself,  after  having  surveyed  the  curious  pile  of 
quaint,  mud-plastered,  tumble-down,  bamboo  structures,  is, 
"  What  could  possess  any  people  to  set  up  their  household 
gods  in  such  a  desolate  portion  of  creation  ?  "  It  is,  in- 
deed, curious  to  observe  where  man  has  sought  out  a 
habitation.  How  often  we  find  him  presumptuously  plant- 
ing his  little  domicile  upon  the  very  flank  of  some  restless 
volcano,  which  he  knows  will  eventually  heap  it  in  rub- 
bish !  Deserting  the  inviting  plains  of  La  Plata,  he  has 
travelled  southward,  crossed  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  and 
melts  with  the  warmth  of  his  own  body  the  falling  snows 
of  the  inhospitable  Ticrra  del  Fuego ;  upon  the  delta  of 
the  Orinoco  he  has  swung  his  house  in  the  trees,  when  the 
fertile  Llanos  and  mountain-flanks  of  Venezuela  offer  him 
an  enviable  home.  The  only  excuse  we  could  find  for  the 
existence  of  Paita  was  in  the  fact  that  it  served  as  a  port 
to  more  pretentious  inland  towns. 

Going  ashore  we  followed  our  guide  through  the  nar- 
row streets,  which  are  just  wide  enough  to  admit  the  pass- 
ing of  two  pack-animals.  Through  these  contracted  pas- 
sages we  wended  our  way,  dodging  the  careless  donkeys 
which,  with  cargoes  apparently  adjusted  with  no  particular 
reference  to  the  safety  of  pedestrians,  rushed  recklessly 
through  the  streets.  "We  kept  our  eyes  with  ill-concealed 
apprehension  upon  the  seemingly  heavy  walls  of  the 
houses,  the  most  of  which  were  alarmingly  removed  from 
perpendicularity;  but  the  discovery  that  beneath  the 
plastering  of  mud,  which  gave  them  their  wall-like  appear- 
ance, was  only  a  slight  frame-work  of  split  canes,  lessened 
our  fears  of  the  evil  consequences  which  might  attend  the 


198  FROM   TANAMA   KO  BODEGAS. 

catastrophe  that  they  seemed  disposed  any  moment  to  in- 
stitute. It  being  the  hour  of  moi-ning  mass,  our  guide  led 
lis  directly  to  the  church.  It  was  a  unique  sti'ucture,  and 
faithfully  characteristic  in  that  it  was  maintaining  its  pe- 
culiar position  in  utter  defiance  of  all  laws  of  gravitation. 
Without,  it  was  plastered  with  "mud,  and  thickly  thatched ; 
tlie  interior  was  pewless,  but  ornamented  with  mutilated 
tissue  paper.  About  a  hundred  worshippers,  chiefly  wom- 
en, were  assembled,  and  in  the  absence  of  seats  were  kneel- 
ing or  squatting  upon  the  floor.  As  Fletcher  has  observed 
among  the  Brazilians,  so  here  praying  is  mostly  done  by 
the  women.  A  negro,  armed  with  a  ruinously-impaired 
drum,  composed  the  orchestra.  The  exercises  conducted 
by  the  priest  were  unmeaning  genuflections  and  crossings, 
with  various  manipulations  and  kisses  of  the  cmcifix  and 
Bible.  There  was  not  one  word  of  instruction  for  the  poor 
Indian,  or  a  single  admonition  to  the  sinful  Spaniard. 

From  the  church  we  strolled  on  through  several  nar- 
row streets,  and,  clambering  up  the  clifls  back  of  the  town, 
found  ourselves  upon  the  sands  of  the  great  Peruvian  des- 
ert. Treeless  and  verdureless,  it  stretched  away  in  vast 
undulations,  with  nothing  to  arrest  the  eye  save  long 
trains  of  donkeys  loaded  with  kegs  of  water,  wending  their 
way  over  the  glaring  waste.  All  the  water  used  in  Paita 
is  brought  from  the  Piura  River,  a  stream  many  leagues 
inland,  born  among  the  snows  of  the  sierras. 

The  fossil  specimens  of  marine  fauna,  which  enter  large- 
ly into  the  formation  of  the  cliflT,  and  which  are  identical 
with  species  now  inhabiting  the  waters,  tell  us  that  this 
desert  long  constituted  the  ocean-bed ;  but  that  internal 
forces,  so  active  along  the  western  shore  of  this  continent, 
hav-e  elevated  it  to  its  present  jjosition.  Portions  of  this 
coast  have  been  lifted  nearly  one  hundred  feet  during  the 
last  three  hundred  years.  Shells  are  found  high  upon  the 
western  slope  of  the  Andes  along  a  line  of  two  thousand 


CAUSES   OF  STEEILITY.  I99 

miles.  Extensive  sea-beaches,  at  an  elevation  of  over  half 
a  mile,  indicate  long  cessations  in  the  action  of  the  eleva- 
tory  forces,  while  the  waves  of  the  Pacific  were  beating 
against  and  wearing  down  the  rising  wall  of  the  Andes. 
This  great  desert,  extending  from  the  sea  to  the  foot  of  the 
Coi'dilleras,  stretches  with  a  varying  breadth  of  ten  to 
twenty  leagues,  from  three  degrees  south  of  the  equatorial 
line  to  the  northern  portions  of  Chili,  over  the  whole  of  the 
Peruvian  coast.  The  absence  of  rain  upon  this  coast,  and 
its  consequently  arid  aspect,  are  due  to  the  proximity  of 
the  lofty  wall  of  the  Andes,  which  eifectually  arrests  all 
storm-clouds  from  the  east,  while  the  prevailing  southerly 
trade-winds  drive  all  the  vapors  of  the  Pacific  from  the 
coast.  As  has  been  often  observed,  had  the  physical  con- 
formation of  South  America  been  changed,  the  Andes  be- 
ing jDlaced  along  the  Atlantic  coast,  the  greater  j^ortion 
of  the  continent  would  have  been  swept  by  winds,  de- 
prived of  all  their  moisture  ;  and,  instead  of  South  Ameri- 
ca, with  its  teeming  valley  of  the  Amazons,  we  would  have 
had  another  Africa  with  its  Libyan  desert.  But  now  the 
Cordilleras,  standing  close  to  the  Pacific  shore,  with  their 
cool  heights  acting  as  a  "  great  condenser,"  wring  every 
drop  of  moisture  from  the  clouds  borne  upon  the  equatorial 
trade-winds  fi-om  the  Atlantic,  and  throw  down  their 
waters  in  torrential  rains  all  along  the  eastern  slope  of 
the  Andes.  South  America  owes  what  it  is — a  continent 
of  vegetation  —  to  this  mountain- wall  along  its  western 
border.  As  one  looks  up  to  the  whitened  summit  of  those 
Cordilleras,  lifted  all  along  to  the  line  of  perpetual  snow, 
he  is  sometimes  led  to  ask  why  they  were  raised  so  high. 
The  long  desert  coast-line  returns  an  answer.  They  are 
the  great  wall,  lifted  by  a  wise  Creator  to  guard  a  conti- 
nent and  water  the  rich  garden  of  the  Amazons.  As  in 
all  of  Nature's  work  we  find  a  beautiful  proportion  and 
harmony,  we  can  conceive,  before  climbing  that  mountain- 


200  FEOM  PANAMA  TO  BODEGAS. 

barrier,  what  wealth  and  beauty  of  vegetation  Ave  shall 
find  within  the  great  Amazonian  Valley. 

The  nights  upon  this  coast  are  uncomfortably  cold ; 
monaings  we  found  our  overcoats  essential  to  comfort. 
This  low  temperature  may  be  referred  to  the  rapid  radia- 
tion of'  heat  from  the  desert,  and  to  the  cold  ocean-current, 
which,  sweeping  from  the  southern  sea,  carries  the  chilling 
influence  of  its  polar  waters  almost  to  the  equator.  Our 
collections  at  this  point  comprised  si3ecimens  of  the  present 
marine  fauna  and  fossils  from  the  cliffs.  The  floral  king- 
dom was  rej^resented  by  only  two  species  of  diminutive 
shrubs,  almost  destitute  of  leaves,  belonging  to  the  natural 
orders  RhamnaccEe  and  Leguminosce.  The  latter  we 
afterward  found  upon  the  highlands  of  Quito,  where  it 
assumed  almost  arboreal  dimensions. 

Upon  the  evening  of  the  16th,  the  Favorita  steamed 
into  the  bay,  and  stepping  aboard  we  gladly  bade  farewell 
to  Paita  and  the  Peruvian  coast.  Just  before  entering  the 
Gulf  of  Guayaquil,  and  eighteen  miles  below  Tumbez,  we 
pass  several  petroleum-wells,  located  upon  a  sterile  coast, 
which  ai*e  yielding  a  remunerative  supply  of  oil.  One  day 
from  Paita  brings  us  opposite  the  Ecuadorian  coast. 
Ecuador  presents  a  verdant  front  to  the  Pacific.  Ever- 
green tropical  forests  fringe  heavily  its  western  shores ; 
for  the  winds  which  sweep  the  Peruvian  coast  lose  their 
regularity  as  they  approach  the  equator,  and  the  vapors 
are  distilled  in  heavy  showers.  The  dark  emerald  of  the 
vegetation  presents  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  gray  cliffs 
and  arid  plains  of  Peru.  This  tropical  forest,  replacing 
the  great  desert  three  degrees  south  of  the  equator,  ex 
tends  northward,  throwing  its  dense  shades  along  the 
Guayas,  and   over  the   Avilds   of   the   Esmeraldas,*  and 

*  The  Esmeraldas  is  the  largest  river  upon  the  Pacific  slope  of  South 
America.  It  is  supposed  by  some  to  take  its  name  ft-om  the  emeralds 
that  were  obtained  in  large  quantities  from  that  locality  at  the  time  of  the 


GUAYAQUIL.  201 

stretches  to  Panama,  its  western  edge  bordering  the  Pacific, 
•while  its  eastern  flank  lies  high  upon  the  steep  slope  of 
the  Andes.  Under  the  equator  tree  vegetation  reaches  an 
elevation  of  about  eleven  thousand  feet,*  when  it  gives 
place  to  the  2^(f^'((^^iOS,  or  grass-lands,  Avhich  extend  up 
to  the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  found  ujDon  the  equatorial 
Andes  at  15,740  feet. 

Toward  evening  of  the  second  day  from  Paita,  we 
entered  the  Gulf  of  Guyaquil,  passing  the  island  of  Puna, 
which  aflbrded  to  Pizarro  a  temporary  station,  when  seek- 
ing an  entrance  to  the  kingdom  of  the  Incas.  It  presents 
a  low  coast-line,  and  is  densely  wooded.  Upon  the  morn- 
ing of  the  19th,  as  we  mounted  to  the  deck,  a  novel  scene 
greeted  us.  During  the  night  we  had  reached  Guayaquil, 
and  were  now  quietly  moored  abreast  the  city.  Crowded 
along  the  shore  were  canoes,  balsas,  and  floating  craft  of 
every  description,  laden  with  an  endless  variety  of  tropi- 
cal fruits,  bananas,  plantains,  pine-apples,  oranges,  cocoa- 
nuts,  and  mangoes,  products  of  the  fertile  banks  of  the 
Guayas.  Heaped  upon  the  shore  were  also  piles  of  fruit, 
surrounded  by  crowds  of  half-naked,  vociferating  Indians, 
with  gayly-clad  Spaniards  and  negroes.  Meek-looking 
donkeys  pushed  their  way  through  the  crowd,  and  occa- 
sionally an  ungraceful  mule-cart  rolled  along  the  street. 
Though  our  eyes  were  naturally  first  arrested  by  this 
motley  market-scene,  they  were  next  cauglit  by  the  archi- 
tectural front  of  the  buildings  lining  the  Malecon — the 
river  street  and  principal  one  of  the  city.  These  were 
two  stories  in  height,  the  up2:)er  furnished  with  inviting 

conquest.  There  is,  however,  ground  for  belief  that  it  was  so  called  by 
the  Spaniards  on  account  of  the  vivid  green  of  its  forests,  contrasted 
with  the  sterile  coast  of  Peru. 

*  The  polykpis,  howewer,  forms  an  exception  to  this  ;  groves  of  this 
tree  are  found  upon  the  slopes  of  Chimborazo  at  an  elevation  of  13,000 
feet. 


202  FKOM  PANAMA   TO  BODEGAS. 

balconies,  which,  jutting  over  the  sidewalk,  rested  upon 
columns,  forming  a  low  arcade — a  shady  retreat  from  the 
rays  of  a  vertical  sun.  Constructed  of  split  canes,  and 
plastered  with  mud,  they  surpass  those  of  Paita  by  having 
added  a  coating  of  whitewash,  and  in  exchanging  the 
thatch  for  neat  roofs  of  tile. 

Guayaquil  is  located  upon  the  Gu.iyas  Kiver,  about 
seventy  miles  from  the  sea.  Almost  all  imports  intended 
for  the  table-lands  of  Ecuador  pass  through  this  port; 
and  into  it  the  elevated  plains  of  Quito  pour  almost  all 
their  products  intended  for  exportation.  The  city  com- 
prises a  mixed  Spanish,  Indian,  and  negro  population  of 
about  twenty  thousand.  There  is  here,  as,  indeed,  through- 
out Spanish  America,  no  prejudice  of  race  or  color ;  all 
barriers  are  thrown  down,  and  the  results  of  unrestrained 
amalgamation  are  observable  everywhere  throughout  so- 
ciety. 

The  climate  of  Guayaquil  during  the  wet  season  is 
exceedingly  warm,  and  pestilential  diseases  prevail  with 
alarming  fatality.  The  unheal thiness  of  the  city  is  not 
wholly  the  result  of  an  unavoidable  conjunction  of  natural 
circumstances,  as  proximity  to  sluggish  streams,  long- 
continued  rains,  and  excessive  heat,  but  of  causes  super- 
added to  these  by  the  uncleanly  habits  of  the  people.  An 
American  resident,  sjjeaking  of  the  sanitary  state  of  the 
city,  remarked,  "  The  location  of  Guayaquil  is  the  most 
liealthful  in  the  world."  We  were  led  to  believe  that  its 
iinenviable  reputation  for  fevers  is  largely  referable  to 
causes  which  the  observance  of  the  most  obvious  sanitary 
requirements  would  remove.  Our  advent  to  the  city  was 
during  the  dry  season,  which  lasts  from  June  to  Decem- 
ber, during  which  portion  of  the  year  tlie  climate  is  health- 
ful and  cool.  The  sky  is  generally  obscured  the  early  part 
of  the  day;  the  heavy  clouds  which  bang  about  the  towei'- 
ing  summits  of  the  Cordilleras  rolling  down  during  the 


PEOSTKATED  BY  FEVEK.  203 

night  over  the  city  to  the  coast,  only  receding  before 
the  heat  of  mid-day,  to  again  suspend  their  dark  veil  be- 
tween the  city  and  the  lofty  ranges  of  the  Andes.  It  is 
seldo.m  that  an  opening  rent  allows  a  glimpse  of  the  dizzy 
heights  of  the  Cordilleras. 

Desiring  to  secure  as  large  collections'  as  possible  from 
this  section,  so  seldom  visited  by  naturalists,  we  made 
Guayaquil  our  headquarters,  and  planned  several  expedi- 
tions upon  the  different  branches  of  the  Guayas.  Captain 
Lee,  an  American,  who  has  established  steam  navigation 
upon  these  streams,  kindly  oifered  us  the  privileges  of 
his  steamers.  We  had  but  just  commenced  our  work, 
when  we  were  interrupted  by  fever,  which  prostrated  all 
but  one  of  our  party.  "We  cannot  forbear,  in  this  con- 
nection, mentioning  our  indebtedness  to  Dr.  A.  Destruge, 
vvhose  kindness  and  talent  proved  of  great  service  to  us. 
Two  weeks  found  us  convalescent  and  preparing  for  the 
passage  of  the  Cordilleras.  We  were  determined  to  es- 
cape as  soon  as  possible  the  heat  of  the  tropical  coast,  and 
climb  the  Andes  to  Quito,  the  "  city  above  the  clouds," 
and,  to  the  joy  of  travellei's,  also  above  fevers,  scorpions, 
and  mosquitoes.  As  heavy  rains  are  liable  to  be  encoun- 
tered among  the  sierras,  our  baggage  was  carefully  secured 
by  wrappings  of  tarpaulin  ;  while  we  provided  ourselves 
with  ponchos  and  overcoats,  for  severe  storms  of  sleet  and 
snow  often  sweep  the  bleak  passes  of  the  Andes.  Should 
the  traveller  be  fortunate  enough  to  escape  these,  the 
sudden  change  from  the  sultry  coast  to  the  extreme  cold 
of  the  Cordilleras  renders  this  precaution  necessary. 

These  preparations  completed,  we  took  passage  on  one 
of  the  little  American  steamers  which  navigate  the  Guayas 
as  high  as  Bodegas,  seventy  miles  above  Guayaquil,  from 
which  town  the  traveller  takes  to  the  back  of  mules.  The 
scenery  of  the  Guayas  is  most  varied  and  beautiful ;  the 
banks  being  heavily  fringed  with  every  fonn  of  tropical 


204  FKOM  PANAMA  TO  BODEGAS. 

vegetation.  Large  plantations  of  the  rustling-leaved  ba- 
nana alternate  with  extensive  forests  of  cacao,  the  tree 
which  yields  the  chocolate  of  commerce.  Twenty-five 
million  pounds  are  annually  exported  from  Guayaquil,  the 
greater  portion  of  which  is  produced  upon  the  Guayas  and 
its  tributaries.  Orange-trees  bend  under  their  load  of 
golden  fruit,  while  the  magnificent  mango  and  the  bread- 
tree,  with  its  immense  leaves,  lend  diversity  to  the  vege- 
tation. Here  and  there,  seeking  the  Avater's  edge,  waves 
a  grove  of  graceful  grasses.  It  seems  strange  to  speak  of 
grasses  as  forming  forest ;  but  here  that  arboreal  gramina, 
the  Bairibusa  guadua,  which  has  a  deeper  social  instinct 
than  most  species  of  tropical  j^lants,  forms  dense,  beauti- 
ful thickets.  The  tall,  slender  stalk,  rising  forty  feet  and 
upward,  sways  in  the  slightest  breeze,  and  when  swept 
by  heavy  winds  the  groves  bend  and  rock  like  fields  of 
grain.  This  gramina  is  only  surpassed  in  beauty  by  the 
stately  palm,  which  we  must  crown  as  the  "  prince  of  tropi- 
cal vegetation."  So  expressive  of  elegance  and  grace,  it  is 
not  strange  that  it  has  been  the  favorite  of  all  poets  whose 
home  has  been  the  home  of  the  palm.  But  Flora's  king- 
dom, varied  and  wonderful  as  it  is,  aflbrds  not  all  of  the 
attractions  of  these  regions.  Animated  Nature  is  not 
lacking  in  representatives  here.  Nowhere  in  South  Amer- 
ica, not  even  in  the  teeming  valley  of  the  Amazons,  did 
we  observe  a  greater  variety  of  ornithic  forms,  or  find  any 
characterized  by  moi'e  varied  or  brilliant  plumage.  The 
marshes  were  whitened  with  aquatic  birds,  which  also 
flecked  the  air.  Only  a  few  monkeys,  however,  were  seen ; 
for,  of  the  eighty-six  species  found  in  the  New  World,  not 
more  than  three  or  four  inhabit  the  forest  west  of  the  An- 
des. But  the  sluggish  waters  of  the  Guayas  afford  a  con- 
genial home  for  alligators,  of  which  hundreds  lined  the 
banks  with  their  cuirassed  bodies,  which,  upon  our  ap- 
proach, would  slowly  glide  into  the  water,  their  move- 


',!» I  iSf 


m 


mimA.      ,.,:,;«"' 


''Mi, 


'  'It 


?^''i!'lii|r|| 


VARIED  SCENES.  205 

ments  frequently  accelerated  to  an  ungraceful  plunge  by 
a  shot  from  one  of  our  rifles.  Slowly  we  steamed  up  the 
Guayas,  stopping  to  take  aboard  every  native  who  sig- 
nalled us  from  the  shores.  The  bed  of  the  stream  often 
compelled  us  to  run  close  to  the  banks,  so  that  occasion- 
ally our  decks  were  swept  by  the  overhanging  trees.  We 
always  enjoyed  these  brushings,  until  we  ran  into  a  nest 
of  bees,  which  speedily  cleared  the  deck.  After  that  we 
enjoyed  it  quite  as  much  when  we  were  steaming  clear  of 
the  forest. 

But  amid  the  varied  scenes  of  the  day  was  one  not 
altogether  tropical.  The  desire  of  years  was  gratified  by 
a  view  of  the  mighty  chain  of  the  Andes  and  one  of  its 
grandest  volcanoes.  The  sun  had  already  touched  the 
edge  of  the  high  forest,  and  we  were  seated  upon  deck, 
watching  the  changing  hues  of  the  clouds  as  they  Avere 
touched  by  those  soft,  rich  colors  so  characteristic  of  the 
tropics,  when  a  native  friend  approached,  and  asked  if  we 
saw  Chimborazo.  "  Why,  no  ! "  we  exclaimed,  "  is  it  clear 
from  clouds  ?  "  "  Look,"  said  he,  turning  toward  the  east. 
We  looked,  raising  our  eyes  to  an  angle  generally  assumed 
when  taking  in  the  summit  of  mountains.  But  nothing 
appeared,  save  the  usual  heavy  clouds  banked  high  along 
the  horizon.  "  Where  are  you  looking  ?  "  exclaimed  our 
friend,  casting  a  glance  at  our  eyes ;  "  here ! "  and  he 
pointed  away  up  among  the  clouds.  We  looked,  and 
never  will  we  forget  that  view.  Resting  upon  the  high 
bank  of  clouds,  which  seemed  to  have  assumed  a  marble 
firmness,  stood  Chimborazo,  its  snow-fields  four  miles 
above  us,  flushing  gold  and  crimson  from  the  rich  colors 
of  the  Avest.  The  clouds,  parting,  rolled  either  way  along 
the  slope  of  the  Cordillera,  until  the  long,  dark  wall  of  the 
Andes  stood  before  us,  lifted  to  the  height  of  fourteen 
thousand  feet,  buttressed  by  a  hundred  darkened  spurs  all 
along  its  flank.     As  the  clouds  were  draAvn  away,  the 


206  FROM   PANAMA   TO   BODEGAS. 

snowy  dome  of  Chimborazo  appeared  supported  upon  the 
dark  waves  of  the  sierras — a  fitting  "  crown  of  the  An- 
des." Vast  snow-fields,  broken  by  yawning  crevasses, 
indicated  by  heavy  shading,  mantled  the  summit  of  the 
mountain:  from  the  teeming  tropics  we  looked  up  into 
the  snows  of  an  arctic  winter.  Between  the  snow-line 
and  the  zone  of  forest  which  covered  the  base  of  the 
mountain  were  dark  cliflfs,  broken  and  scarred  by  black 
lines — deep  chasms  in  the  mountain's  sides.  As  the  sun 
sank  lower,  the  golden  hue  of  Chimborazo  faded  to  an 
ashen  white,  while  its  rough  outlines  were  toned  to  softer 
shadings ;  and  then  the  mists  of  evening  again  veiled  the 
Cordilleras. 

This  sunset  view  of  Chimborazo  was  followed  by  an- 
other scene,  if  less  grand,  quite  as  beautiful.  It  was  the 
tropical  scenery  of  the  Guayas,  beneath  a  moonlit  night. 
The  soft  reflections  from  the  waters,  and  the  weird  gleam 
of  myriads  of  brilliant  glow-flies,  sparkling  in  the  dark 
forest-walls  which  crowded  close  to  the  river,  seemed  to 
convert  the  stream  into  a  fairy  entrance  to  some  fabled 
land,  that  our  reveries,  into  which  we  had  fallen,  pictured 
as  lying  beyond,  and  of  which  we  had  caught  a  glimpse 
in  the  fadinsr  orlories  of  Chimborazo. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

CKOSSIjS'G     the     ANDES.* 

Bodegas. — Beneath  tlie  Forest. — Climbing  the  Cordillera. — Our  Mules. — 
Above  the  Clouds. — Descending  Trains. — Cannino  Keal. — Valley  of 
Cliimbo. — Guaranda. — Upon  the  Crest  of  the  Andes. — Arenal. — The 
Snow-line. — Dreary  Eide. — Zones  of  Vegetation. — Coloration  of 
Flowers  of  High  Altitudes. — Valley  of  Quito. — At  the  Foot  of  Chim- 
borazo. — Mocha. — A  Posada-scene. — Spanish  Curiosity. — Ambato. — 
Vespers  among  the  Andes.— Indian  Hospitality. — Latacunga. — Plain 
of  Turubamba. — Glimpse  of  Quito. 

At  the  head  of  low-water  steamboat  navigation  upon 
the  Guayas  is  located  the  Indo-Spanish  town  of  Bodegas, 
containing  about  two  thousand  inhabitants.  Here  the 
traveller  obtains  mules  and  guides  for  the  ascent  of  the 
Andes.  We  reached  this  j^lace  late  in  the  evening  of  the 
first  day  from  Guayaquil,  and  spent  the  following  in  se- 
curing animals  for  the  transit  of  ourselves  and  baggage 
over  the  Cordilleras :  at  least  one  day  is  required  to  con- 
summate the  most  trifling  business  transaction  in  Equa- 
dor.  Just  at  evening  all  was  arranged,  and  we  were  in 
our  saddles,  in  high  expectation  of  a  romantic  mule-ride. 
Altogether  we  made  i;p  an  interesting  cavalcade.  Five 
pack-animals,  laden  Avith  trunks,  boxes,  and  photographic 

*  *  The  equatorial  Andes  are  divided  into  two  longitudinal  ranges, 
called  respectively  the  Eastern  and  Western  Cordilleras :  between  these 
lie  the  table-lands  of  Quito.  The  term  Andes  is  sometimes  applied  to  the 
western  ridge  alone 


208  CKOSSING  THE  ANDES. 

appai'atus,  led  the  van,  while  our  party  brought  up  the 
rear — our  little  mules  being  almost  buried  beneath  huge 
rolls  of  blankets,  saddle-bags,  guns,  and  nondescripts  in- 
dispensable to  the  traveller  among  the  Cordilleras. 

It  was  a  bright  moonlit  evening,  and,  riding  until  quite 
late,  we  drew  up  at  a  way-side  hut,  kept  by  an  old  negro, 
and  upon  inquiry  whether  we  might  pass  the  night,  received 
tlie  usual  affirmative  of  welcome,  "  Como  no  ? "  Why 
not  ?  We  knew  of  no  good  reason  why  we  should  not, 
and  so  dismounted.  Our  arrieros  (muleteers)  unburdened 
the  mules,  hobbled  and  turned  them  loose  to  crop  the 
short  herbage  immediately  about  our  quarters.  Climbing 
up  a  rickety  ladder,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  small  apart- 
ment, laid  with  split  canes  which  threatened  to  break 
through  at  every  step.  Rolling  ourselves  in  our  blankets, 
upon  the  floor,  we  were  not  long  in  making  the  discovery 
that  we  were  in  a  rich  entomological  field ;  which  state 
of  affairs  above,  in  connection  with  an  unfortunate  con- 
junction of  circumstances  below,  rendered  even  the  thought 
of  sleeping  preposterous.  Directly  underneath  was  a 
wakeful  cock,  which  insisted  upon  lusty  demonstrations 
at  the  most  unreasonable  hours ;  while  a  calf,  tied  to  one 
of  the  supports  of  the  hut,  filled  the  interludes  of  the 
heavily-grunting  pigs,  which,  with  other  domestic  ani- 
mals, occupied  the  ground-floor  of  the  cabin. 

The  shouting  of  our  arrieros,  driving  in  our  mules,  as- 
sured us  that  it  was  time  to  prepare  for  our  day's  ride. 
By  sunrise  we  were  mounted  and  passing  beneath  the 
dense,  heavy  forest  which,  as  we  have  remarked,  shades 
the  Pacific  shore,  and  covers  the  basal  portion  of  the  An- 
des. So  thickly  sprang  the  trees,  that  our  loaded  animals 
forced  their  way  along  the  narrow  trail  only  with  the 
greatest  difficulty.  Parasites  feeding  upon  parasites 
marked  the  eagerness  of  vegetation;  vines  twined  up- 
ward round  tall,  branchless  trunks,   and    drooped  from 


BENEATH  THE  FOEEST.  209 

their  tops  in  beautiful  coronals  of  leaves  and  flowers,  con- 
cealing death  and  decay  beneath  life  and  beauty ;  heavy 
clumps  of  mosses  {Tlllandsia)  "with  pendant  tresses,  fos- 
tered by  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  draped  the 
whole  with  their  gray  festoons,  giving  a  sombre  and  fu- 
nereal aspect  to  the  scenery;  as  those  forest  depths  ai'e 
scarcely  lighted  by  the  scattering  rays  of  the  sun,  which 
tremblingly  shoot  through  the  thick  canopy  of  leaves 
above.  During  early  morning  the  forests  are  resonant 
with  the  hum  of  multitudinous  life ;  but,  as  the  day  ad- 
vances, all  grows  silent,  and  one  wandering  beneath  their 
dark  shade  feels  painfully  oppressed  by  their  solitude. 
We  recall  now  our  first  ramble  in  the  forest  upon  the  out- 
skirts of  Yinces,  a  little  village  located  upon  one  of  the 
afiluents  of  the  Guayas.  The  many  sounds  of  morning 
had  given  way  to  the  torpor  of  mid-day,  and,  as  we  strolled 
in  the  silent  wood,  our  own  footfall  almost  startled  us. 
Rarely  is  the  sense  of  loneliness  so  keen  as  when  com- 
panionless  in  the  depths  of  a  South- American  forest. 

For  the  first  half  day  we  forced  our  way  through  this 
w^ilderness,  and  by  noon  reached  the  foot  of  the  Andes, 
where  "we  halted  for  a  traveller's  lunch,  and  then  com- 
menced to  ascend.  Our  mules  scarcely  ever  showed  any 
indication  of  weariness.  What  a  blessing  have  those  ad- 
dicted to  wandering  over  the  by-ways  of  the  woi'ld  found 
in  this  patient,  circumspect,  sure-footed  animal !  Notwith- 
standing a  long-founded  prejudice,  we  conceived  a  deep 
admiration  for  the  species  in  general,  from  the  good  be- 
havior of  our  own  beasts,  as  they  bore  us  safely  over  the 
steep  and  slippery  passes  of  the  Cordilleras.  We,  how- 
ever, had  a  little  misunderstanding  at  first.  We  addressed 
them  in  English,  not  thinking  of  their  classical  deficien- 
cies. The  result  was,  when  we  intimated  to  them  our 
desire  to  stop,  they  v/ere  sure  to  alarmingly  accelerate 
their  movements ;  and,  when,  with  a  halt  being  finally  se- 


210  CROSSING   THE   ANDES. 

cured,  we  told  them  to  move  on,  tlioy  would  stand  as 
though  they  had  as  much  leisure  as  the  generality  of 
Spaniards.  The  true  state  of  affairs  not  recurring  to  our 
minds,  we  naturally  referred  all  to  their  unregenerated  na- 
ture ;  and,  consequently,  our  orders  were  often  repeated, 
perhaps  rather  peremptorily.  We  have  not  the  least 
doubt  but  that  our  Andean  mules  will  retain  to  their  dy- 
ing day  vivid  conceptions  of  cogent  English.  Soon  dis- 
covering the  difficulty,  we  fell  to  addressing  them  in  their 
vernacular;  then  we  got  along  more  pleasantly. 

Our  course  was  along  a  wild  mountain-torrent,  which 
came  leaping  wildly  down  a  rocky  gorge,  suddenly  burst- 
ing into  view  above,  only  to  escape  behind  some  dark 
cliff  below.  We  were  constantly  crossing  and  recrossing 
its  rocky  bed,  the  strong  current  opposing  much  difficulty 
to  the  passage,  sometimes  almost  sweeping  our  mules  from 
their  feet.  We  made  a  rapid  ascent,  and,  as  Ave  rose  into 
the  cooler  heights  of  the  sierras,  found  ourselves  envel- 
oj^ed  in  heavy  mists.  We  halted  for  the  night  at  a  small 
tamho,  having  made  an  ascent  of  about  three  thousand 
feet.  The  following  morning  we  awoke,  chilled  by  the 
cool  mountain-air.  How  different  the  bracing  atmosphere 
and  the  fresh  breezes,  from  the  heated,  malaria-laden  air 
of  the  coast !  We  now  breathed  more  freely,  without  fear 
of  inhaling  with  each  inspiration  miasma  and  fever.  Ev- 
ery thing  conspired  to  make  that  morning's  ride  the  most 
enjoyable  of  our  journey.  The  temperate  air  of  the  moun- 
tains infused  new  life  and  vigor  into  our  party,  and  thus 
rendered  us  more  susceptible  to  the  influence  of  the  bold, 
wild  scenery  that  surrounded  us ;  which,  in  its  piles  of 
mountains  and  dizzy  heights,  compelled  us  to  stand  still, 
just  to  admire  and  wonder.  Beneath  us  lay  a  heavy 
stratum  of  clouds,  resting  along  the  flank  of  the  sierras, 
and  stretching  westward  until  blended  with  the  sky,  con- 
cealing the  scenery  of  the  lowlands,  as  it  had  hid  from 


ABOVE  THE  CLOUDS.  211 

our  A'iew,  when  Ave  were  beneath  it,  tlie  form  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras. "We  had  passed  through  these  clouds  the  day- 
previous,  or  rather  entered  them,  for  the  tambo  in  which 
we  passed  the  night  was,  upon  the  evening  of  our  arrival, 
wrapped  in  thick  vapors  which  before  morning  had  settled 
about  the  base  of  the  mountains.  As  we  looked  down 
upon  the  bright  surface  of  this  vapor-sea,  beautifully  tinted 
by  tbe  rising  sun  just  shooting  through  the  ragged  sum- 
mit of  the  Cordilleras,  with  all  in  our  upper  world  sun- 
shine and  brightness,  we  really  pitied  those  condemned  to 
live  beneath  its  gloomy  shade,  and  to  look  upon  its  dark 
and  cheerless  surface.  It  was  suggestive  to  us  of  human 
life.  Sometimes  our  sky  seems  to  be  darkened,  and  heav- 
en appears  to  frown.  Our  position  is  at  fault ;  a  higher 
stand-point  would  show  a  serene  sky  and  a  smiling  heaven. 
The  sun  had  commenced  to  lift  those  vapor-clouds,  and 
already  we  could  discern  detached  masses  rolling  up  the 
deep  gorges,  convincing  us  that,  unless  we  stopped  moral- 
izing, and  proceeded  to  climb  upward,  we  would  very  soon 
be  wrapped  in  cold,  unpoetic  mist. 

Slowly -we  mounted  the  Cordilleras.  Such  was  the 
confidence  with  which  our  sure-footed  mules  had  inspired 
us,  that  we  threw  the  bridle  over  their  neck,  and  surren- 
dered to  them  the  privilege  of  choosing  their  own  way. 
We  had  less  aj^prehension  when  astride  them,  passing 
along  knife-edged  ridges  and  by  dizzy  precipices,  than  we 
should  have  had  if  trusting  to  our  own  feet.  Long  trains 
of  donkeys  and  bulls,  laden  with  products  of  the  table-lands, 
rushed  recklessly  down  the  precipitous  path,  caixsing  us  to 
hug  closely  the  clifis,  to  avoid  being  overturned  or  crowded 
over  into  the  abyss.  One  drove  safely  passed,  we  turned 
our  eyes  upward  only  to  see  another  train,  winding  down 
the  seemingly  perpendicular  sides  of  the  mountains.  The 
llama  is  seldom  employed  in  transporting  burdens  over 
the  Cordilleras  of  Ecuador — we  met  but  one  in  our  pas- 


212  CEOSSING  THE   ANDES. 

sage — but  farther  south,  among  the  Andes  of  Peru,  the 
traveller  encounters  long  trains  of  these  "  mountain- 
sheep,"  which  are  admirably  adapted  to  traversing  the 
bleak,  broken  passes  of  those  snowy  sierras. 

By  ten  we  reached  Camino  Real,  a  collection  of  half 
a  dozen  Indian  huts.  Unrivalled  was  the  view  which  our 
position  aftbrded.  The  heavy  clouds,  that  in  the  morning 
lay  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes,  now  hung  but  a  few  hundred 
feet  below  us,  and  we  seemed  to  stand  upon  a  precipitous 
coast,  the  vapor-sea  dashing  its  light  waves  about  the 
mountain-peaks  which  rose  like  islands  from  the  surface 
of  this  cloud-ocean.  Such  was  the  view  to  the  westward. 
In  our  front  towered  still  higher  ranges  of  the  Cordilleras, 
pushing  their  crests  boldly  upward  till  the  low,  shrubby 
growth,  struggling  up  the  gentler  slopes  of  the  valleys, 
gave  way  before  the  summit  was  nearly  reached,  leaving 
their  tops  scarcely  clothed  with  Alpine  grasses.  High 
above  all  towered  the  peerless  Chimborazo.  Such  are  the 
elements  of  grandeur  entering  into  a  view  among  the 
Andes.  The  mind  is  actually  oppressed  by  the  exhibition 
of  i^ower,  feels  a  sense  of  uneasiness,  and  in  A^ain  looks 
for  repose  amid  the  liftings  of  the  hills. 

Delaying  at  Camino  Real  only  for  a  hasty  refec- 
tion, we  again  remounted  and  rode  slowly  along  the  brow 
and  down  the  slope  of  the  sierra.  The  chilling  winds, 
sweeping  from  ofl"  the  ice-fields  of  Chimborazo,  rendered 
grateful  the  warmth  of  our  ponchos.  Scattered  along  our 
path  were  the  whitening  bones  of  animals,  and  frequently 
the  eye  would  fall  upon  a  grim  human  skull,  crowded 
into  a  small  excavation  in  the  bank,  or  bound  to  the  arm 
of  a  rude  cross,  half-buried  beneath  the  pile  of  votive 
stones  thrown  about  it  by  the  superstitious  arrieros.  In 
a  single  decaying  trunk  we  counted  seven  of  these  relics 
of  the  sufierings  of  the  poor  muleteers  upon  these  bleak 
passes. 


SAN  MIGUEL.  213 

A  little  more  than  half-way  up  the  slope  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras lies  nestled  among  the  hills  the  picturesque  valley 
of  Chimbo.  We  had  scarcely  left  Caraino  Ileal,  and 
turned  the  summit  of  Pizcurcu,  before  we  were  brought 
in  full  view  of  that  truly  mountain-picture.  The  sight  of 
cultivation  was  refreshing,  after  our  having  passed  over 
the  forest-trail  which  leads  from  the  coast.  We  antici- 
pated scenes  wild  and  grand  among  the  Andes,  but  our 
imagination  had  never  placed  there  the  repose  and  beauty 
of  such  a  vale.  The  sierras,  shaded  about  their  base 
with  dark  forests,  encircled  it,  as  if  to  guard  against  all 
approach,  little  villages  clustered  amid  the  fields,  check- 
ered by  cultivation,  and  hedged  by  lines  of  aloes,  or  cen- 
tury-plants. Descending  from  the  ridge  of  Pizcurcu,  we 
stopped  for  the  night  at  the  little  village  of  San  Miguel. 
The  houses  are  more  firmly  and  warmly  built  than  those  of 
the  coast,  the  walls  being  two  or  three  feet  in  thickness, 
and  constructed  of  adobes,  large  mud-bricks  dried  in  the 
sun  ;  the  roofs  are  thatched  with  p^Ja,  the  long  grass  af- 
forded by  the  paramos.  It  was  here  that  we  first  slept  upon 
beds,  which,  we  think,  and  sincerely  hope,  are  confined  to 
the  Andes.  They  consisted  of  narrow,  mud  projections, 
about  eighteen  inches  in  height,  running  around  the  sides 
of  the  room.  We  were  musing  what  earthly  purpose  they 
could  subserve,  when  our  host  came  in  and  intimated  that 
they  were  to  be  our  bed.  We  have  seen  better  sleeping 
arrangements.  In  the  court-yard  of  the  building  was  a 
black  bear,  an  animal  found  on  the  high  slopes  of  the 
Andes,  but  which  seldom  descends  to  the  tierra  caliente. 

A  short  ride  through  the  valley  of  Chimbo  brought  us 
to  Guaranda,  a  town  of  two  thousand  inhabitants,  and  the 
half-way  station  between  Guayaquil  and  Quito,  where  the 
traveller  must  exchange  his  mules  for  others ;  as  those 
coming  from  the  coast  ai'e  not  allowed  to  enter  the  colder 
heights  of  the  sierras.     This  village  lies  at  an  altitude  of 


2X4  CKOSSING  THE  ANDES. 

little  less  than  nine  thousand  feet ;  just  the  zone,  under  the 
equator,  of  eternal  spring.  Five  thousand  four  hundred 
feet  higher  is  the  bleak  pass  leading  over  the  highest 
range  to  the  plains  of  Quito.  From  the  outskirts  of  the 
town  Chimborazo  towers  upward  Avith  one  unbroken, 
dizzy  sweep  of  over  twelve  thousand  feet.  The  trail 
which  we  must  follow  leads  us  up  to  within  seven  thou- 
sand feet  of  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  Our  Guayaquil- 
ian  friends  had  admonished  us  to  cross  the  crest  before 
10  p.  M.,  as  later  the  winds  sweep  violently  down  the  sides 
of  Chimborazo,  and  driving  storms  imperil  the  traveller 
ujDon  the  pass.  Although  we  charged  our  arricros  to  be 
ready  to  start  by  five  in  the  morning,  it  was  nine  before 
they  were  prepared  to  move.  Once  mounted,  we  made 
a  rapid  rise,  occasionally  catching  a  glimpse,  through  the 
drifting  masses  of  clouds,  of  the  icy  sides  of  Chimborazo. 
Rising  higher  and  higher,  we  became  enveloped  in  cold 
mists,  and,  approaching  the  snow-line,  chilling  winds 
rushed  down  the  mountain,  driving  the  falling  sleet  di- 
rectly in  our  faces.  Accustomed  to  the  enervating  heat 
of  the  tierra  caliente,  we  were  doubly  susceptible  to  the 
piercing  cold,  which  completely  benumbed  our  bodies. 
The  summit  of  the  pass  was  gained  by  sci'ambling  up  a 
steep  slope  of  sand  and  gravel.  The  extreme  rarefaction 
of  the  atmosphere  at  this  great  elevation  of  almost  three 
miles  (14,250  feet)  rendered  every  exei'tion  most  fatiguing. 
A  large  train  of  heavily-laden  donkeys  were  being  urged 
up  the  precipitous  bank ;  many,  completely  exhausted, 
had  sunk  upon  the  ground,  and  refused  to  rise,  in  spite  of 
the  shouts  and  blows  of  the  arrieros.  When  lifted  to 
their  feet  they  would  climb  uj)  a  few  stejDS,  and  then  again 
drop,  as  if  lifeless,  upon  the  sand. 

The  highest  point  reached,  and  we  were  upon  the  drea- 
ry waste  of  the  Arenal — a  belt  of  coarse  sand  and  gravel 
lying  upon  the  sides  of  Chimborazo — a  few  hundred  feet 


AT   THE  FOOT  OF  CULMEOEAZO.  215 

below  the  line  of  perpetual  snow.  Its  formation  seems 
to  indicate  a  glacial  origin  ;  it  appears  like  the  vast  termi- 
nal accumulation  of  some  glacier  that  may  have  flowed 
down  the  slopes  of  Chimborazo  during  a  period  when  the 
snow-line  was  lower  than  at  present,  We  now  find  it  upon 
the  equatorial  Andes  at  15,748  feet,  while  in  latitude  18° 
south  it  is  17,000  feet,  and  in  Tierra  del  Fuego  it  descends 
to  Avithin  3,500  to  4,000  feet  of  the  sea.  The  elevation  of 
the  line  over  a  thousand  feet,  as  we  proceed  southward 
from  the  equator,  is  caused  by  the  arid  nature  of  the  Peru- 
vian coast.  South  of  Concepcion,  latitude  37°,  the  climate 
changes,  as  is  marked  by  the  forests  which  there  cover  the 
base  of  the  Andes,  and  the  sno.w-line  rapidly  descends, 
until  in  latitude  40°  it  lies  at  an  elevation  of  only  6,000 
feet.  At  great  heights  snow  is  probably  not  thawed,  but 
evajjorated.  Darwdn  was  informed  that,  during  an  unusu- 
ally long  and  warm  summer,  the  snow,  doubtless  removed 
by  evaporation,  entirely  disappeared  from  Aconcagua,  the 
highest  peak  of  the  Andes. 

It  is  a  dreary  trail  that  leads  over  the  icy  foot  of  Chim- 
borazo. We  shall  not  soon  forget  the  feeling  of  utter  deso- 
lateness  experienced  while  crossing  that  mountain-waste. 
Having  lingered  behind  to  collect  specimens  of  the  few 
Alpine  plants  that  outlive  the  cold  of  those  bleak  heights, 
we  became  separated  from  the  party  and  its  Indian  guides, 
and  for  eight  hours  rode  companionless  over  the  dreary 
Arenal  and  a  lonely  paramo.  Upon  the  former  all  traces 
of  vegetation  finally  disappeared ;  a  more  stern  desolation 
the  imagination  could  not  j^icture.  Occasionally  the  clouds 
would  gather  and  drive  fiercely  over  the  barren  slopes. 
It  is  Nature,  in  such  solitudes  as  these — 

"  Sucli  majesty  of  lofty  loneliness  " — 

that  stirs  the  deepest  feelings  of  the  soul. 

While  upon  the  summit  of  the  Andes,  we  could  not 


216  CEOSSING  THE  ANDES. 

but  recall  the  diiFerent  zones  of  vegetation  through  which 
we  had  passed.  Xowhere  in  the  world  does  Nature  crowd 
together  such  a  diversity  of  climate,  as  there  directly 
under  the  line  of  the  equator.  Just  above  where  we  stood 
reigned  the  snows  of  an  eternal  winter,  below,  the  con- 
stant heat  of  the  fervid  tropics,  while  the  vales  between 
enjoyed  the  freshness  of  perennial  spring.  In  three  days 
we  had  passed  from  the  rank,  stimulated  grow^th  of  the 
ticrra  caliente,  to  the  stunted  vegetation  of  a  few  hardy 
Alpine  plants,  struggling  for  an  existence  amid  the  melt- 
ing snows  of  Chimborazo.  The  decrease  of  vegetation  as 
we  ascend  mountain-slopes,  as  well  as  its  inferior  organi- 
zation, is  the  result  not  only  of  a  diminution  of  heat,  but 
also  of  the  existence  of  less  carbonic  acid  in  high  regions 
of  the  atmosphere.  Lichens,  "  children  of  the  rocks,"  are 
starved  as  well  as  frozen.  It  is  curious  to  observe  the 
wide  range  of  conditions  to  which  vegetable  organiza- 
tions are  adapted.  With  our  plants  gathered  amid  the 
snows  of  the  Andes,  are  some  found  growing  under  the 
peculiar  conditions  afibrded  by  the  crater  of  Pichincba, 
and  still  others  taken  from  the  Stygian  waters  of  the  hot 
springs  of  Valencia,  Specific  characteristics  adapt  each 
variety  to  these  widely-diverging  conditions  of  life.  Find- 
ing species  so  admirably  fitted  to  circumambient  condi- 
tions, the  question  is  naturally  suggested,  how  far  these 
adaptations  are  referable  to  individual  adjustment,  ren- 
dered possible  by  the  plastic  nature  of  primal  forms. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  questions  awaiting  the 
solution  of  naturalists. 

The  bright  color  of  the  floAvers  of  these  high  altitudes 
is  refreshingly  attractive  to  the  eye  of  the  traveller ;  ren- 
dered doubly  so  by  the  gray,  sear,  sombre  appearance  of 
the  scene  which  they  deck  like  sparkling  jewels.  A  beau- 
tiful deep  blue  and  bright  yellow  are  the  favorite  colors 
of  these  Alpine  plants.     The  cause  of  the  peculiar  coloring 


PECULIAK  COLORATION   OF  FLO  WEES.  217 

of  flowers  of  lofty  elevations  is  the  more  intense  actinic 
properties  of  the  unstrained  light ;  for,  at  the  altitude  of 
a  little  over  three  miles,  the  rays  have  passed  through  only 
one-half  the  quantity  of  air  that  those  must  traverse  which 
are  unobstructed  by  mountain  elevations  before  reaching 
the  ocean  level.  This  peculiar  coloration  of  flowers — the 
predominance  of  blue  and  yellow — has  been  observed  by 
Bowles  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  an  elevation 
exceeding  only  by  a  little  one-half  that  at  which  the 
phenomenon  is  most  distinctly  marked  upon  the  Andes. 
This  would  seem  to  indicate  a  less  absorptive  power 
of  the  lower  strata  of  the  atmosphere  of  the  temperate 
zones,  as  compared  with  that  of  the  tropics.  The  pale 
shade,  and  often  delicate  white,  of  our  eai*ly  spring  flow- 
ers, and  the  richer  and  moi-e  gaudy  hues  of  summer  and 
autumn,  are  doubtless  the  result  of  the  varied  chemical 
properties  of  the  light  during  different  portions  of  the 
year.  We  observe  tliat  the  humming-birds  which  flit  so 
constantly  in  the  unstrained  light  of  the  lofty  regions  of 
the  Andes  are  more  brilliantly  colored  than  those  found 
upon  the  lowlands.  May  this  also  not  be  referred  to  the 
same  causes  that  effect  the  coloration  of  plants  ?  That 
other  birds  of  high  flight  are  sometimes  of  a  dull  color, 
may  be  explained,  perhaj^s,  by  the  counteracting  influ- 
ences of  peculiar  habits  of  life. 

From  the  paramo  of  Chimborazo  the  traveller  looks 
down  upon  the  plateau  of  Quito,  which,  at  this  point,  is 
about  twenty  miles  in  -oidth.  To  the  right  lies  the  re- 
nowned city  of  Riobamba,  in  the  midst  of  an  apparently 
well-cultivated  plain.  A  dreary  ride  over  a  dreary  moor- 
land, gradually  descending,  and  we  turned  into  the  court- 
yard of  the  tambo  of  Chuquipoys.  The  prospects  afforded 
by  the  miserable  mud  hovel  were  cheerless;  but  it  was 
at  least  a  comforting  reflection  that  the  bleak  pass  was 
crossed,  and  we  were  over  the  "Western  Cordillera,  al- 
io 


21S  CROSSING  THE  ANDES. 

though  Quito  was  yet  distant  one  hundred  miles  up  the 
valley  to  the  north.  That  Avas  a  memorable  night  passed 
at  the  foot  of  icy  Chimborazo.  With  the  exception  of  a 
single  cane-arrangement,  our  room  was  destitute  of  sleep- 
ing-accommodations ;  even  the  mud-projections  Avere  ab- 
sent, consequently  we  spread  our  beds  upon  the  ground, 
and,  rolling  in  our  blankets,  endeavored  to  obtain  a  little 
of  "  Nature's  sweet  restorer,"  but  the  cold  was  too  intense. 
With  the  first  indication  of  light  we  were  up,  wrapped  in 
our  ponchos,  and  out  reconnoitring  our  position.  Dreary 
was  our  upper  world.  Snow  had  fallen  during  the  night 
upon  Chimborazo  and  the  surrounding  ranges,  mantling 
them  far  below  the  usual  snow-line  ;  but  the  clouds  were 
now  broken  and  driving  with  a  wintry  aspect  through  the 
heavens.  The  winds  were  bitterly  cold,  and  our  poor  ani- 
mals, confined  in  the  court-yard  with  only  a  low  mud-wall 
for  a  protection,  were  trembling  from  their  niglit's  expos- 
ure, and  seemed  anxious  to  be  mounted.  Chimborazo, 
free  from  clouds,  towered  majestically  above  us  ;  although 
we  stood  at  an  elevation  of  over  two  miles,  this  colossus 
of  the  Andes  lifted  itself  more  than  nine  thousand  feet 
above  our  tambo. 

From  Chuquipoys,  a  ride  of  nine  miles  over  a  paramo, 
clothed  with  heavy  tufts  of  wiry  grass  called  pajo,  brought 
us  to  Mocha,  a  sorry-looking  town,  the  most  miserable 
of  any  passed  upon  our  route.  The  low  mud-huts,  with 
thatched  roofs,  were  common  habitation  for  pigs,  poultry, 
donkeys,  and  guinea-pigs,  which,  with  half-naked  Indian 
children,  strayed  in  and  out  of  the  opening  that  served  as 
a  door.  Breakfasting  at  a  wretched  hovel,  which  made 
some  pretensions  as  a  casa  posada,  we  prepared  to  re- 
mount, and  then  was  enacted  the  soul-trying  scene  of 
settling  accounts  with  our  host.  The  Ecuadorians  have 
a  most  peculiar  way  of  transacting  such  business.  A  bill 
is  generally  made  out  for  each  article,  and  presented  sepa- 


A  POSADA-SCENE.  219 

rately.  Upon  this  occasion,  however,  a  bill  of  six  reals 
Avas  handed  lis,  accompanied  with  the  assurance  that  it  was 
'■'■  por  todas  cosas  "  (for  every  thing).  Congratulating  our- 
selves that  we  had  at  last  found  one  of  sufficient  tact  and 
enterprise  to  make  one  job  of  breakfast-charges,  we  quickly 
cancelled  the  indebtedness.  But  scarcely  did  we  feel  our- 
selves in  our  saddles  before  cuatro  reales  mas  (four  reals 
more)  was  demanded  for  the  breakfast  of  our  arrieros. 
Expostulation  was  useless,  and  the  bill  was  paid  only  to 
be  followed  by  another  of  two  reals  for  yerba  fed  the  ani- 
mals. Protest  of  course  we  did,  till  our  by  no  means  su- 
perfluous stock  of  Spanish  expletives  was  completely  ex- 
hausted ;  and  then  we  made  another  drain  upon  our  pock- 
ets ;  after  which  we  were  informed  that  the  two  reals  only 
paid  for  the  yerba  given  the  bestias  de  silla  (saddle-ani- 
mals), and  that  a  like  amount  was  due  for  the  bestias  de 
carga  (pack-animals).  Having  paid  for  the  damages  done 
by  the  cai-go-beasts,  we  put  spurs  to  our  mules,  thinking 
to  be  conscientiously  absolved  from  further  payments,  for 
the  very  good  reason  that  we  should  hear  of  no  more 
bills  being  presented.  But  we  were  arrested  by  the  shouts 
of  our  an-iero,  our  host  having  laid  violent  hands  upon 
the  gun,  Avhich  had  been  committed  to  his  charge,  an- 
nouncing his  intention  to  retain  it  as  payment  for  the  ser- 
vices of  the  Indian  who  had  brought  the  yerba.  The  last 
instahnent  which  we  made  toward  the  discharge  of  the 
debt  contracted  that  morning  for  breakfast  was  to  redeem 
our  favorite  rifle  from  the  hands  of  the  insatiable  posadero. 
Besides  the  peculiarities  of  posaderos,  there  is  another 
annoyance  to  which  the  traveller  is  here  subjected.  This 
is  the  curiosity  of  Spaniards,  all  laudable  enough  in  itself, 
only  objectionable  in  the  means  adopted  for  its  gratifica- 
tion. We  are  indebted  to  our  friend  and  fellow-traveller, 
Bushnell,  for  the  following  :  "It  is  an  old  saying  that  the 
more  people  know  the  more  they  want  to  know,  and  that 


220  CROSSING  THE  ANDES. 

the  more  intelligent  they  become  the  more  curious  they 
are.  The  first  statement  is  undoubtedly  true,  but  one's 
faith  in  the  latter  is  certainly  shaken,  after  having  travelled 
for  a  time  among  the  ignorant  class  of  Spaniards.  No 
people  can  be  more  curious  for  curiosity's  sake  than  are 
these.  If  a  traveller  stop  at  one  of  their  houses,  they 
commence  at  once  by  asking,  '  Whence  do  you  come, 
where  are  you  going,  what  is  your  business,  how  long 
will  you  remain  in  the  country,  when  will  you  come  to  see 
me  again  ?  '  After  this  introduction,  they  pass  to  more 
personal  matters,  and  desire  to  know  your  name,  whether 
you  are  married,  and,  if  so,  your  wife's  name,  whether  you 
have  any  children,  if  boys  or  girls,  and  their  names, 
whether  you  have  any  brothers  and  sisters,  and  what  their 
names  are,  whether  they  are  married,  and,  if  so,  their 
partners'  names,  whether  their  parents  be  living,  and,  if 
so,  what  their  names  are.  If  not  married,  they  want  to 
know  if  you  are  in  love,  if  the  young  lady  is  pretty,  the 
color  of  her  eyes  and  hair,  what  her  name  is,  and  the 
name  of  her  parents.  Nor  does  their  curiosity  become 
satisfied  when  all  these  questions  are  satisfactorily  an- 
swered, for  they  immediately  begin  upon  another  strain, 
viz. :  '  Do  they  use  horses  in  your  country  ?  '  '  Are  there 
any  hens  there,  and  do  they  lay  eggs  as  ours  do  ? '  '  Are  the 
people  of  your  country  white  or  black  ? '  '  Do  they  drink 
cofiee  ?  '  '  Do  they  have  any  schools  there  ?  '  '  What  is 
the  religion  ? '  '  What  is  your  religion  ? '  '  Are  there  any 
cities  in  your  country  ?  '  '  Do  the  people  speak  Spanish  ? ' 
Thus  they  pass  through  the  whole  category  of  questions 
that  the  mind,  memory,  and  imagination,  can  devise.  Even 
the  servants  and  muleteers  have  the  audacity  to  question 
a  traveller  upon  such  matters,  and  think  themselves 
greatly  insulted  if  every  query  is  not  fully  and  respect- 
fully answered." 

From  Mocha  our  trail  descended  gently,  and,  as  we 


AMBATO.  221 

escaped  the  chilling  influences  of  Chimborazo,  cultivation 
gradually  ajDpcared.  Unexpectedly  the  beautiful  city  of 
Ambato  burst  into  view,  lying  in  a  deep,  canon-like  valley : 
an  abrupt  descent,  and  we  were  within  the  town.  It  was 
inspiring  to  hear  the  clatter  of  our  animals'  hoofs  upon  a 
well-paved  street.  The  houses  are  substantially  built, 
with  mud-walls  four  to  five  feet  in  thickness,  and  but  one 
story  in  height,  in  order  to  better  withstand  the  terremotos, 
or  earthquakes.  Its  climate  is  a  little  milder  than  that 
of  Quito,  and  it  is  a  place  of  frequent  resort  during  the 
season  of  fruits,  for  which  the  Ambato  valley  is  justly 
celebrated.  Its  population  is  eight  thousand.  The  even- 
ing of  our  arrival  being  unusually  clear,  just  as  the  sun 
was  disappearing,  we  clambered  up  out  of  the  ravine,  an- 
ticipating a  view  of  Cotapaxi,  which  we  were  now  ap- 
proaching. Our  anticipations  were  more  than  realized. 
Around  us  stood  three  of  the  grandest  peaks  of  the  Andes, 
divested  of  the  heavy  clouds  which  for  several  days  had 
hung  darkly  about  the  summit  of  the  Cordilleras.  To  the 
south  Chimborazo  towered  heavenward  ;  the  light  clouds, 
which  lay  in  white  bars  across  its  breast,  sullying  its 
winter  robe  of  snow,  which  fell  far  down  its  sides ;  east- 
wardly  the  beautiful  volcanic  peak  of  Tunguragua  broke 
the  uniformity  of  the  eastern  wall  of  the  plateau ;  while, 
farther  to  the  north,  Cotopaxi  raised  the  most  perfect 
cone  in  the  world,  its  summit  mantled  with  snow.  The 
light  smoke-wreaths  curling  innocently  about  its  crater 
was  all  that  told  of  the  deeply-hidden  forces  which  so 
often  shake  the  Andes  from  base  to  summit.  We  sat  long, 
watching  the  changing  hues  of  the  mountains,  as  the  sun, 
that  had  just  hidden  itself  behind  the  Western  Cordillera, 
colored  them  with  a  rich  crimson,  which  slowly  faded  to 
a  ghostly  white.  The  whole  scene  was  one  of  that  ma- 
jestic repose  so  characteristic  of  the  landscaj^e  of  these 
mountain-hemmed  plains.    Grandly  those  mountains  lifted 


222  CKOSSING  THE  ANDES. 

their  snowy  altars  about  us — we  felt  it  to  be  the  hour  and 
place  for  reverent  worship.  Just  then  we  observed  sev- 
eral groups,  slowly  making  their  way  up  the  steep  path 
which  Avound  from  the  town,  to  render  their  evening  de- 
votions before  the  crucifix  planted  upon  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  and  around  Avhich  a  small  number  were  already  gath- 
ered in  the  attitude  of  prayer.  There  was  something 
pleasing  in  that  vesper  service.  "We  thought  it  a  fitting 
scene  of  the  closing  day,  enacted  there  before  Nature's 
own  altars,  with  the  glories  of  that  mountain-temple  still- 
ing: the  soul  in  adoring  wonder  and  reverence. 

We  spent  the  Sabbath  in  Ambato.  This  is  the  great 
market-day  of  the  week.  Our  observations  confirmed  the 
remark  of  a  friend  at  Guayaquil,  that  the  Sabbath  never 
found  its  way  across  the  isthmus.  There  is  a  deplorable 
lack  of  veneration  for  the  day  throughout  Spanish  Amer- 
ica. Early  in  the  morning,  the  Indians  of  the  country 
surrounding  Ambato  come  pouring  into  the  city  with 
fruits  and  produce  of  every  variety ;  the  women  carrying 
the  burdens  upon  their  backs  with  their  infants  perched 
on  top,  while  their  lords  trot  along  empty-handed.  By 
ten  o'clock  the  plaza^  or  public  square,  is  packed  with  a 
motley  throng,  and  presents  a  busy  scene  during  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day.  Next  to  the  plaza,  the  little  stream 
that  runs  through  the  town  presents  the  most  unique  and 
animated  scene.  Its  banks  for  a  long  distance  are  flecked 
Avith  drying  garments,  while  at  the  bowlders  in  the  stream 
stand  the  Indian  washerwomen,  using  the  rough  stones  as 
scrubbing-boards.  Having  no  linen  in  "the  wash,"  we 
looked  on  unmoved  as  the  stout,  swarthy  senoras  rubbed 
the  clothes  upon  the  rocks,  whipped  them  about  the  bowl- 
ders, or  pounded  them  with  the  smaller  stones. 

A  few  days'  rest  at  Ambato,  and  we  again  resumed 
our  journey.  We  were  necessitated  to  make  easy  stages, 
as  the  sudden  change  from  the  tierra  calie^Ue  to  the  high 


BY  EASY  STAGES.  223 

table-lands,  combined  with  the  severe  ride  over  the  Cor- 
dillera, while  still  weak  from  the  effects  of  fever  experi- 
enced at  Guaj^aquil,  had  completely  exhausted  Colonel 
Staunton,  who,  unable  longer  to  endure  the  fatigue  of 
riding,  was  carried  in  a  litter  borne  upon  the  shoulders  of 
four  Indians.  Our  cliolo  *  guide  made  use  of  the  authority 
of  his  position,  to  impress  into  the  service  of  bearing  the 
litter  any  Indians  .whom  we  happened  to  meet.  ,  He  had 
mounted  the  colonel's  horse,  and  possessed  himself  of  his 
gun,  and,  thus  equipped,  rode  about  with  an  air  of  the 
gravest  dignity.  Observing  an  Indian  in  the  distance,  he 
would  put  spurs  to  his  horse,  and,  displaying  his  weapon, 
would  soon  come  up  to  and  order  the  man  to  the  relief  of 
one  of  the  bearers.  Some  of  the  Indians,  doubtless  mis- 
taking him  for  a  recruiting-officer — for  thus  they  recruit 
in  Ecuador — often  led  him  in  a  hot  pursuit  across  the 
plain.  After  one  had  accompanied  us  a  few  miles,  we 
would  reward  him  with  a  calabasli  of  chicha,  the  Indian's 
national  beverage,  when,  doffing  the  remnants  of  a  wool 
hat,  he  would  say,  with  a  low  bow,  "  Muchas  gracias^  se- 
nores,''''  and  go  on  his  way  rejoicing. 

Our  road  led  across  a  barren  plain,  the  di'eary  region 
over  which  reigns  the  restless  Cotopaxi.  All  day  long  we 
rode  slowly  over  this  arid  waste,  drooping  listlessly  in  our 
saddles,  our  faces  veiled  to  protect  them  from  the  glare 
of  the  scoriae-strewn  plain.  The  only  sound  that  arrested 
the  ear  was  the  foot-fall  of  the  Indians,  who  bore  the  lit- 
ter with  slow,  measured  tread  before  us.  The  desert  as- 
pect of  the  plain  was  occasionally  relieved  by  straggling 
aloes  and  cactuses,  that  seemed  to  find  a  congenial  home 
in  the  burning  sands.  Condensed  in  their  solid  rosettes 
of  thickened  leaves  or  columnar  shafts,  they  flourish  dur- 
ing seasons  of  protracted  drought,  when  other  plants  be- 

*  Cholos  are  the  offspring  of  whites  and  Indians.     In  most  of  them 
the  Indian  element  largely  predominates. 


224  CEOSSIN®  THE  ANDES. 

come  withered  and  scorched  thvox;gh  rapid  evapora- 
tion. The  aloe,  as  we  have  remarked,  furnislies  an  ad- 
mirable substitute  to  the  native  for  needle  and  thread. 
One  day  our  blanket  imfortunately  became  unrolled,  and 
fell  beneath  our  mule,  which  very  carelessly  put  his  foot 
through  it,  making  a  serious  rent.  We  deplored  the  acci- 
dent the  more  because  the  hole  would  just  correspond 
with  the  slit  in  our  poncho  when  both  were  wrapped 
about  us  at  night.  But  one  of  our  Indians,  stepping  to 
an  aloe,  broke  off  a  spine,  drawing  out  the  attached  thread, 
and  then  sat  down  and  quickly  repaired  the  damage. 

While  passing  up  the  valley,  we  were,  at  times,  the 
recipients  of  Indian  hospitality.  We  never  had  a  greater 
effort  made  to  contribute  to  our  comfort  than  at  one  of 
their  huts,  where  we  chanced  while  suffering  from  an  at- 
tack of  the  fever,  which  still  clung  to  us.  A  bed  was  im- 
mediately provided,  which,  although  only  a  blanket  spread 
upon  the  ground,  with  a  piece  of  pumice-stone  for  a  pillow, 
was  still  their  best.  A  fire  Avas  kindled,  but,  the  fuel  be- 
ing ill-cured  grass,  it  imparted  little  heat,  but  puffed  out 
clouds  of  smoke,  until  we  Avere  almost  suffocated.  Then 
an  attempt  was  made  to  administer,  for  our  fever,  a  cala- 
bash of  fiery  aguardiente.  Afterward  soup,  the  constitu- 
ents of  which  we  could  never  divine,  was  furnished  ;  and 
sympathetically  the  dishevelled  Indian  and  her  little  naked 
ones  stood  by  while  we  were  partaking.  It  was  kind  in 
them,  but  we  confess  that  their  proximity  to  our  soup  was 
any  thing  but  appetizing.  We  survived  their  kindness, 
and  have  often  since  recalled,  with  gratitude,  alike  their 
good  intentions  and  our  escape. 

The  second  day  from  Ambato  we  reached  Latacunga, 
a  town  of  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  situated  fifteen 
miles  south  of  Cotopaxi.  Half  the  city  lies  piled  in  ruins 
by  the  terrible  earthquakes  which  have  frequently  visited 
it.     Pumice-stone,  tossed  out  by  Cotopaxi,  forms  the  prin- 


GLIMPSE  OF  QUITO.  225 

cipal  building-material.  This  rock  is  also  obtained  from 
a  quarry  tAVO  leagues  distant  from  the  town.  The  quar- 
ried stone  is  of  a  more  fibrous,  silky  nature  than  the  frag- 
ments ejected  by  the  volcano,  and  its  color  is  of  a  bluish 
gray.  Leaving  this  city,  our  road  gradually  ascends, 
untA  we  find  ourselves  upon  the  bleak  ridge  of  Chisinchi, 
a  transverse  range  which  lies  across  the  plateau,  separating 
the  waters  of  the  Pastassa  and  Esmeraldas.  The  latter 
flows  northward  about  fifty  miles,  and  then,  breaking 
through  the  Western  Cordillera,  leaps  down  to  the  Pa- 
cific ;  the  former  runs  an  equal  distance  south  down  the 
valley,  then  bursts  the  Eastern  Cordillera  and  hurries 
down  the  slope  of  the  Andes  to  the  Amazons.  Descend- 
ing from  Chisinchi,  the  aspect  of  the  country  suddenly 
changes,  and  the  beautiful  vale  which  we  enter  the  fourth 
day  from  Ambato,  gradually  spreads  out  into  magnificent 
plains,  where  the  yellow  glow  of  ripening  fields,  contrasted 
with  the  deep  green  of  growing  grain,  gives  evidence  of 
a  perpetual  spring.  These  are  the  plains  of  Turubamba ; 
and  our  arrieros,  pointing  up  the  plateau,  tell  us  that  a 
few  leagues  more  will  bring  us  in  sight  of  the  city  of 
Quito. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  29th  of  August  we  gained  a 
gentle  rise,  which  allowed  the  eye  an  extensive  sweep  up 
the  valley.  Upon  the  left  of  the  plain  before  ixs  rose  Pane- 
cillo,  a  dome-shaped  hill,  symmetrical  as  though  formed 
by  art,  and  joined  to  the  Western  Cordillera.  From  be- 
hind this  hill  stretched  out  toward  the  east  a  long,  broken 
line  of  white  walls — the  outskirts  of  Quito.  Already 
Pichincha  was  throwing  its  deep  shadows  over  the  plain, 
and  hastening  forward  we  were  soon  passing  rapidly 
through  the  streets  of  the  capital,  and  shortly  entered  the 
court-yard  of  the  Casa  Frances,  where,  in  the  warm  wel- 
come from  the  members  of  our  party  who  had  preceded 
us,  we  forgot  all  the  weariness  of  our  journey  over  the 
Andes. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


QUITO. 


Situation  of  the  Capital. — Delightful  Climate. — History  of  the  City. — 
Modern  Quito. — Houses. — Plazas. — Traces  of  Earthquakes. — Popula- 
tion.— Eesults  of  Amalgamation. — No  Progress. — Keligiou. — Future 
of  the  City. — Hacienda  of  Chillo. 

Crossed  by  the  equator,  and  fenced  round  by  lofty, 
snow-clad  mountains,  lies  the  beautiful  valley  of  Quito. 
It  is  over  two  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  twenty  to 
thirty  in  breadth.  The  scenery  of  that  mountain-walled 
valley  is  of  unrivalled  grandeur.  Thi-ee  degrees  south  of 
the  equatorial  line  the  Andes  divide  into  two  Cordilleras, 
which,  running  parallel  to  each  other  until  again  united 
north  of  the  equator  by  the  mountain-knot  of  Los  Pastos, 
encircle  those  lofty  table-lands.  Set  round  upon  those 
trachytic  walls  are  the  noblest  peaks  of  the  Andes,  which, 
wrapped  in  their  shrouds  of  eternal  white,  standing  against 
the  horizon,  seem  in  their  majestic  repose  to  be  the  faith- 
ful guardians  of  the  once  favorite  home  of  the  Incas. 

Here,  fifteen  miles  south  of  the  equator,  close  under  the 
shadow  of  the  Western  Cordillera,  and  resting  partly  upon 
the  flank  of  the  volcano  Pichincha,  lies  the  far-famed  city 
of  Quito,  Its  altitude  is  nine  thousand  five  hundred  and 
forty  feet ;  just  three  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
higher  than  the  summit  of  Mount  "Washington.  Upon 
the  north  and  south  are  unfolded  the  plains  of  Anaquito 


DELIGHTFUL   CLIMATE.  227 

and  Turubamba,  the  most  fertile  of  any  embraced  by  the 
plateaux  of  the  Andes.  Above  is  spread  a  deep,  soft  sky, 
shedding  the  influences  of  an  everlasting  spring.  In  the 
climate  of  Quito  we  observe  a  fine  illustration  of  the  fact 
that  meteorological  phenomena  are  determined  not  less 
by  elevation  and  relation  to  mountain-ranges  than  by 
position  in  latitude.  Considerable  portions  of  so-called 
tropical  America  do  not  enjoy,  or  rather  suffer,  a  tropical 
climate.  The  lofty  cordilleras  of  the  Andes,  culminating 
in  height  near  the  southern  line  of  the  tropics,  with  their 
broad,  elevated  table-lands,  carry  a  temperate,  and,  in  iso- 
lated instances,  a  frigid  climate  to  those  intertropical  re- 
gions. Thus  western  equatorial  America  is  as  truly  tem- 
perate as  tropical.  The  mean  annual  temperature  of 
Quito  is  lifty-nine  degrees ;  you  here  never  feel  the  incon- 
venience of  heat  or  cold.  The  entire  variation  during  the 
year  is  only  twenty-five  degress,  while  in  our  Northern 
States  it  is  over  one  hundred  and  thirty.  Under  this 
equable  and  salubrious  climate  epidemic  diseases  are  al- 
most unknown ;  cholera,  yellow  fever,  and  consumption, 
never  find  their  way  into  these  elevated  valleys.  In  re- 
spect to  scenery  and  climate,  Nature  has  done  much  for 
the  city  of  Quito.  But  man  has  done  his  part  less  well. 
He  has  defaced  this  spot  witli  a  city  so  devoid  of  beauty, 
so  filled  with  filth  and  guilt,  that,  should  Pichincha  bury 
the  whole  beneath  its  lavic  floods,  we  would  have  no 
trouble  in  interpreting  the  providence.  Let  us  review 
hurriedly  the  history  of  Quito,  and  then  speak  briefly  of 
the  pi'esent  city  and  the  character  of  Quitonians. 

Quito  has  beeir  the  proud  capital  of  four  successive 
civilizations.  Centuries  ago,  almost  beyond  the  reach  of 
tradition,  it  was  founded  by  the  Quitus  race.  Five  hundred 
years  before  the  Spanish  invasion,  the  Carans,  who  as- 
cended the  western  slope  of  the  Andes,  by  way  of  the 
Esmeraldas,  conquered  the  Quitus  nation,  and  established 


228  QUITO. 

in  the  valley  the  dynasty  of  the  Scyris.*  Temples  and 
palaces  of  barbaric  splendor,  and  ambitious  tolas,  f  or 
tombs,  rose  throughout  the  valley.  Second  only  to  the 
civilization  of  the  Incas  was  this  early  one  of  the  Carans. 
They  were  familiar  with  implements  of  bronze,  and  pos- 
sessed some  knowledge  of  astronomy.  The  sun,  as  with 
the  Incas,  was  the  central  object  of  their  worship.  But, 
while  the  mountain-peaks  which  stand  about  the  plains  of 
Quito  were  witnessing  the  high  civilization  of  the  Scyris, 
there  was  springing  up  in  the  highlands  of  Lake  Titicaca 
an  indigenous  civilization  which  nowhere  found  a  paral- 
lel among  the  primitive  nations  of  America,  except  upon 
the  table-lands  of  Mexico,  and  which  was  speedily  to  ab- 
sorb the  Quitonian  kingdom. 

The  great  Inca  empire  had  its  origin  aboiit  the  year 
1100,  four  hundred  years  before  the  Spanish  conquest. 
An  i  land  in  the  mountain-girdled  lake  of  Titicaca,  where 
tradition  says  Manco  Capac  and  Mama  Oella,  his  sister 
and  wife,  "  Children  of  the  Sun,"  first  appeared,  is  to-day 
held  sacred  as  the  birthplace  of  the  Inca  kingdom.  But 
of  the  Empire  of  the  Incas  we  need  speak  but  briefly,  for 
the  pen  of  Prescott  has  made  all  familiar  with  their  ro- 
mantic history.  By  conquest  and  the  assimilating  forces 
of  a  wise  and  paternal  polity,  they  soon  extended  their 
kingdom  to  the  domains  of  the  Scyris.  The  Inca  Tupac 
Yupanqui,  jealous  of  this  rival  kingdom,  led  his  warriors 
against  the  king  of  the  Carans,  and  wrested  from  him  the 
southern  portion  of  his  dominions.  Both  kingdoms  now 
changed  rulers,  Cacha  the  Fifteenth  came  to  the  throne 
of  the  Scyris  in  Quito.  Iluayna-Capac  succeeded  his 
father,  Tupac  Yupanqui,  in  Cuzco,  Capac  made  an  heroic 
defence  of    his   empire.     Overpowered  by   numbers  and 

*  The  king  of  the  Carans  was  called  Scyvi.  The  language  of  this 
race  was  the  Quichua,  the  national  tongue  of  the  Incas. 

f  See  "  Four  Years  among  Spanish-Americans,"  Hassaurek. 


HISTOKY  OF  THE  CITY.  229 

treachery,  he  was  swept  up  the  plains  of  Quito.  Mocha, 
Latacunga,  and  the  capital,  fell  successively  into  the  hands 
of  the  victorious  Inca.  Upon  the  plains  of  Hatuntaqui, 
in  the  province  of  Imbabura,  the  most  northern  part  of 
the  Quito  valley,  was  fought  the  terrible  battle  which 
decided  the  fate  of  the  Caran  nation.  "To  the  horla^  the 
emblem  of  Peruvian  royalty,  was  added  the  emerald  of 
the  Scyris."  Quito  now  became  one  of  the  capitals  of  the 
Inca  empire.  During  the  reign  of  Huayna-Capac,  the 
Peruvian  kingdom  attained  its  culminating  point  of  gran- 
deur. It  embraced  the  principal  Indian  tribes  of  the 
plateaux  of  the  Andes,  and  stretched  for  more  than  two 
thousand  miles  along  the  Pacific  coast,  while  claiming  as 
its  subjects  many  of  the  tribes  of  the  tropic  interior.  It 
was  by  this  Inca  that  many  of  those  great  works  of  in- 
ternal improvement,  Avhose  remains  are  still  so  magnifi- 
cent, were  constructed,  Quito  was  joined  to  Cuzco  by  that 
royal  road  which  swept  the  entire  length  of  the  kingdom. 
"  As  prudent  and  highly  politic,"  says  Hassaurek,  "  as  the 
conduct  of  Huayna-Capac  is  generally  reputed  to  have 
been,  so  imprudent  and  impolitic  was  the  division  of  the 
empire  on  his  death-bed,  bequeathing  his  paternal  domin- 
ions, Cuzco,  to  his  first-born,  Iluascar,  and  to  Atahuallpa, 
the  kingdom  of  Quito,"  From  that  imwise  division  may 
be  dated  the  fall  of  the  Peruvian  empire.  Jealousies 
speedily  kindled  into  war,  and  for  the  first  time  Inca  joined 
battle  with  Inca.  Huascar  was  taken  prisoner  in  the 
battle  of  Quipaypan,  and  Atahuallj^a  seized  the  entire 
kingdom. 

Just  at  this  moment,  while  the  kingdom  was  convulsed 
by  these  internal  strifes,  the  western  shore  of  the  empire 
was  startled  by  the  Spanish  invaders.  We  need  not  tell 
of  the  cruel  crushing  of  the  Inca  nation,  the  confinement 
of  Atahuallpa,  the  golden  ransom,  the  perfidy  of  the  con- 
querors, the  sad  fate  of  the  last  of  the  royal  line  of  the 


2G0  QUITO. 

Incas,  and  the  establishment  of  Spanish  supremacy  in 
South  America.  Quito  was  one  of  the  last  cities  to  fall 
into  the  hands  of  the  invaders.  After  the  death  of  Ata- 
huallj^a,  his  chief  Rumiuagui  collected  the  army,  shat- 
tered in  the  battle  of  Quipaypan,  and  prepared  for  the 
defence  of  the  capital.  Sebastian  de  Benalcazar,  with 
only  a  handful  of  Spanish  soldiers,  but  having  a  strong 
force  of  Indian  allies,  crossed  the  Cordilleras,  and,  after  a 
series  of  fiercely-contested  battles,  arrived  at  Quito ;  but 
only  to  find  it  a  heap  of  ruins.  Rumiuagui,  removing  the 
treasures  from  the  temples,  had  destroyed  the  city,  and 
retreated  to  the  northern  provinces  of  the  valley.  Through 
this  desperate  act  of  the  Indians,  and  the  vandalism  of  the 
Spanish  iconoclasts,  themselves  baser  devotee;^,  as  some 
one  has  Veil  said,  of  a  baser  idol  than  ever  found  a  place 
in  the  temples  of  the  religion  they  warred  against,  not  a 
trace  was  left  of  the  former  magnificence  of  the  city  of 
the  Incas.*  Thus  fell  Quito  while  enjoying  a  civilization 
superior  to  that  of  Rome  during  the  reign  of  the  Tarquins ; 
equal  to  that  of  the  Britons  at  the  time  of  the  Saxon  in- 
vasion. Upon  its  ruins  was  founded,  in  1534,  the  present 
city. 

Its  long,  instructive  colonial  history  we  will  pass  in 
silence.  But  a  change  at  last  came.  Spain,  by  impolitic 
diplomacy,  by  arrogant  assumption  of  colonial  jurisdic- 
tion, at  length  forced  her  American  colonies  to  revolu- 
tionary measures.  During  the  war  for  independence, 
Ecuador  joined  her  fortunes  with  those  of  New  Granada 
and  Venezuela,  but  shortly  after  the  close  of  the  struggle, 
in  1829,  this  union  was  dissolved,  and  since  that  time  Quito 
has  been  the  capital  of  the  Repuhlica  del  Ecuador.  Revo- 
lutions, and  rumors  of  revolutions,  make  up  the  history  of 

*  "  Of  the  ancient  buildings  of  Quito  no  stone  was  left  upon  the  other, 
iind  deep  excavations  were  made  under  them  to  search  for  hidden  treas- 
ures."— (Hassaurek's  "  Four  Years  among  Spanish  Americans.") 


MODERN  QUITO.  231 

the  city  under  the  regime  of  a  republican  government. 
Varied  has  been  its  past ;  unsatisfactory  is  its  present ; 
may  the  future  bring  it  days  equal  to  those  when  it  was 
called  the  "  City  of  the  Incas  !  " 

Quito,  as  we  find  it  to-day,  presents  a  melancholy  con- 
trast to  its  former  magnificence.  The  city  lies  upon  the 
projecting  sj)urs  of  the  volcano  Pichincha,  which  rises  out 
of  the  Western  Cordillera.  The  buildings,  generally  two 
stories  in  height,  ai-e  constructed  of  adobe,  the  walls  being 
two  to  three  feet  in  thickness,  as  a  precaution  against  earth- 
quakes. The  upper  windows  are  furnished  with  balconies, 
and  the  roofs  covered  with  tiles.  In  consequence  of  the 
incombustible  nature  of  the  building-material,  there  are  no 
conflagrations.  You  could  as  easily  fire  a  beavers'  village 
as  the  mud  squares  of  Quito.  Some  of  the  houses  en- 
close pleasant  court-yards,  around  which  run  verandas 
about  ten  feet  in  depth,  and  above  these  second  galleries 
of  equal  width,  furnished  with  low  balustrades.  The 
government  buildings  and  churches  are  the  only  edifices 
that  make  any  architectural  pretensions.  The  fa9ade  of 
the  Jesuit  church  is  the  most  elaborate  work  of  art  the 
city  afibrds,  being  constructed  of  the  poi-phyritic  rock  of 
Pichincha.  One  of  the  marked  features  of  Quito,  as  of 
all  Spanish  towns,  is  its  plazas,  or  public  squares.  Of 
these  there  are  three,  each  being  furnished  with  a  stone 
fountain  which  gi-aces  the  centre.  The  Plaza  Mayor  was 
formerly,  as  the  remaining  two,  the  Plaza  de  San  Po- 
niingo  and  the  Plaza  de  San  Francisco,  are  at  present, 
destitute  of  trees ;  but  President  Moreno  converted  it 
into  a  park  in  order  to  unfit  it  as  a  place  for  bull-fights,  or 
rather  bull-baitings.  Quitonians  now  view  this  amuse- 
ment from  the  balconies  of  the  San  Francisco  plaza.  The 
last-named  square,  with  that  of  Santo  Domingo,  is  used 
as  a  market-place.  Throughout  the  city  are  shattered 
walls  and  unseemly  piles  of  rubbish — traces  of  frequent 


232  QUITO. 

earthquakes.  This  was  true  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and, 
should  we  pass  through  the  city  now,  we  would  find  many 
a  ruin  added  by  the  late  terrible  earthquake  of  August 
16,  1868,  which  entirely  destroyed  its  sister  cities,  Ibarra, 
Otovalo,  and  Atantaqui,  situated  in  the  northern  prov- 
inces of  the  valley. 

Quito  contains  a  mixed  Indian  and  Spanish  population 
of  forty  thousand ;  the  Negro  element  being  scarcely  rep- 
resented. This  city,  in  the  preservation  of  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants,  presents,  in  common  with  most  other  Hispano- 
American  towns,  an  anomaly  in  the  history  of  coloniza- 
tion. In  North  America  we  witness  the  indigenous 
population  swept  away  before  the  tide  of  Anglo-Saxon 
civilization ;  in  Australia  and  New  Zealand  the  primitive 
inhabitants  are  rapidly  becoming  extinct  upon  the  advance 
of  Europeans;  Southern  Africa  presents  a  repetition  of 
this  same  fact ;  in  the  East-Indian  Archipelago  the  natives 
of  many  of  the  islands  have  been  extirpated  by  the  more 
energetic  Malay  race  ;  in  Van  Diemen's  Land  the  entire 
population  was  swept  from  the  island  in  less  than  thirty 
years  after  its  settlement  by  Europeans,  a  portion  being 
lemoved  to  save  them  from  entire  extinction.*  In  view- 
ing such  facts  as  these,  we  are  almost  led  to  the  adoption 
of  what  has  been  termed  the  "  Spencerian  theory,"  and  to 
look  for  the  future  of  mankind  only  in  the  "  survival  of 
the  fittest."  But  Hispano- America,  as  we  have  remarked, 
presents  an  exception.  There  the  native  population  was 
spared,  all  barriers  between  the  races  were  thrown  down, 
and  the  way  left  open  to  unrestrained  and  unparalleled 
amalgamation.  The  deterioration  attending  this  com- 
mingling of  Spanish  and  Indian  races  is  painfully  appar- 
ent. "We  observe  a  loss  of  intellectual  force,  a  union  of 
the  worst  qualities  of  botli,  of  which  there  is  no  lack  in 
either,  and  an  elimination  of  all  the  essential  elements  of 

*  "  Naturalist's  Voyage  round  the  World,"  Darwin. 


EESULTS   OF  AMALGAMATION.  233 

a  broad  and  vigorous  manhood.  And  sncli  seem  ever  to 
be  the  results  of  a  blending  of  races.  The  objector  may- 
point  to  the  Anglo-Saxon,  as  an  instance  of  a  people  of 
acknowledged  intellectual  energy  springing  from  an  unex- 
ampled commingling.  But  we  must  draw  a  distinction 
between  what  are  popularly  termed  races  and  the  varie- 
ties, or  branches,  of  these.  The  blending  of  varieties  of 
the  same  race  is  always  attended  with  elevatory  results ; 
and  it  was  only  in  accordance  with  this  law  that  the  union 
of  the  obstinate  firmness  of  the  native  Briton  with  the 
imjjulsive  energy  of  the  Teutonic  tribes  gave  birth  to 
that  mental  strength  characteristic  of  the  Anglo-Saxon. 
But  the  amalgamation  of  the  races,  as  the  Latin  with  the 
Indian,  or  the  Indian  with  the  African,  presents  less  satis- 
factory results.  The  labor  and  triumph  of  the  race  con- 
stitutino:  the  leadincf  civilization  of  the  world  will  be  in 
pi'eserving  and  lifting  to  its  own  level  less  favored  ones, 
while  maintaining  uncontaminated  all  its  own  intellectual 
expression  and  energy.  How  is  this  to  be  secured  ?  His- 
tory tells  us  that,  in  the  presence  of  a  strong  people,  a 
weaker  one  will  be  crushed  out  in  the  strife  for  existence, 
imless  beneath  the  selfish  shield  of  slavery,  or  preserved 
by  amalgamation.  Recourse  again  to  the  first  alternative, 
in  order  to  secure  from  extinction  an  inferior  race  in  the 
fierce  struggle  for  life,  can  never  be  hael ;  when  we  speak 
of  the  second,  the  experience  of  South-American  civiliza- 
tion leads  us  to  hesitate.  Amalgamation,  such  as  we  ob- 
serve in  almost  every  Hispano-American  city,  produces 
equality ;  but  chiefly  at  the  expense  of  the  elevatory 
power,  by  pulling  down  the  higher,  not  by  lifting  the 
lower.*  This  problem  of  the  races  presents  a  question  as 
interesting  to  the  ethnologist  as  important  to  the  j^hilan- 

*  "  The  hybrid  between  white  and  Indian,  called  Mammeluco  in  Bra- 
zil, is  pallid,  effeminate,  feeble,  lazy,  and  rather  obstinate ;  though  it 
seems  as  if  the  Indian  influence  had  only  gone  so  far  as  to  obliterate  the 


234  QUITO. 

thropist.  In  seeking  its  solution,  while  claiming  positively 
equality  of  rights,  let  us  be  careful,  in  entering  another 
sj)here,  that  we  do  not  jxnss  those  lines  tliat  Nature  has 
drawn,  and  which  she  will  not  allow  to  be  disregarded 
W'ith  impunity. 

Of  the  mixed  population  of  Quito,  about  one-fifth  con- 
Btitutes  what  is  termed  the  white  population,  an  evident 
misnomer,  as  probably  not  a  score  of  tliem  could  count 
back  two  generations  without  encountering  an  Indian ; 
and  this  fact  their  jDhysiological  characteristics  do  not  fail 
to  reveal.  This  class  form  the  upper  circle  of  society,  and 
assume  the  aftairs  of  state.  The  purely  Indian  element, 
comprising  about  one-fourth  of  the  inhabitants,  is  con- 
demned to  manual  labor.  C/iolos,  or  7nestizos,  descend- 
ants of  Spaniards  and  Indians,  make  up  by  far  the  larger 
portion  of  the  population.  They  constitute  the  soldiers 
and  the  business  class  of  Quito,  and,  while  superior  to  the 
Indians,  are  as  much  inferior  to  those  who  comprise  the 
first  and  leading  class. 

In  every  thing,  especially  in  ideas  of  progress  and  en- 
terjjrise,  degenerate  Quito  is  several  centuries  behind  the 
age.  And  how  could  we  expect  that  it  should  be  other- 
wise ?  Offspring  of  imbecile  and  retrogressive  Spain, 
posted  above  the  rest  of  the  world  almost  two  miles, 
fenced  in  by  mountains  which  only  a  mule  or  a  llama  can 
scale,  with  the  hereditary  antipathy  of  its  people  to  mod- 
ern innovations,  afibrding  a  still  more  effectual  barrier 
than  those  mountain-walls  to  the  introduction  of  modern 
thought  and  improvement,  what  else  could  it  do  but  fossil- 
ize? As  their  fathers  did,  so  do  they.  Fletcher,  in  his  bril- 
liant "  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians,"  tells  the  following  story, 
wdiich  is  so  applicable  to  Quitonians,  and  illustrative  of 
Spaniards,  that  we  cannot  forbear  repeating  it :    "  Once 

higher  characteristics  of  the  white,  without  imparting  its  own  energies 
to  the  offspring. — ("  A  Journey  in  Brazil.") 


KELIGION.  235 

upon  a  time,  Adam  requested  leave  to  revisit  this  -world ; 
permission  was  granted,  and  an  angel  commissioned  to 
conduct  liim.  On  wings  of  love  the  j^atriarch  hastened  to 
his  native  earth  ;  but,  so  changed,  so  strange,  all  seemed 
to  him,  that  he  nowhere  felt  at  home,  till  he  came  to  Port- 
ugal. '  Ah,  now,'  exclaimed  he,  '  set  me  down ;  every 
thing  here  is  just  as  I  left  it.' "  Tlie  sequel  would  have 
been  the  same  had  the  good  angel  taken  him  to  Quito : 
Adam  would  have  had  a  longing  to  be  set  down  there  at 
once. 

The  religion  of  Quito  is  an  intolei'ant  Catholicism. 
The  city  is  crowded  with  churches  and  conventual  edifices, 
where,  under  the  garb  of  religious  sanctity,  is  hidden  a 
mass  of  corruption,  whose  influence  is  felt  throughout 
every  grade  of  society.  Daily  mass,  carnivals,  and  public 
processions,  constitute  religion  here.  The  fete-days  are 
legion,  and  often  mi^t  the  images  of  the  Virgin  and  saints 
be  borne  through  the  streets.  We  witnessed  one  espe- 
cially brilliant  procession  in  honor  of  la  Vtrgen  Maria 
del  Mosario,  the  special  patroness  of  the  San  Domingo 
Church.  The  evening  preceding  the  day  for  the  ceremo- 
nies, the  f;x9ade  and  dome  of  the  church  were  brilliantly 
illuminated,  and  within,  hundreds  of  wax-candles  glistened 
amid  tinsel  and  drapery.  About  ten,  upon  the  following 
day,  the  plaza  presented  a  gay  appearance.  From  the 
balconies  hung  flags,  shawls,  ponchos,  and  bed-quilts,  of 
every  hue  and  size.  x\mid  the  jingling  of  bells,  and 
crackling  of  fireworks,  the  procession  issued  from  the 
church,  preceded  by  the  images  of  the  saints,  borne  upon 
the  shoulders  of  Indians,  impressed  for  the  occasion. 
Following  the  monks  were  the  high  ofiicials  of  state,  in- 
cluding the  President,  the  military  bringing  up  the  rear. 
This  subservience  of  the  State  to  the  Church  is  the  curse 
of  Ecuador ;  the  present  illiberal  position  of  the  govern- 
ment toward  Protestants  being  maintained  through  the 


236  QUITO. 

influence  of  religious  intolerance  and  bigotry.  Having 
occupied  about  two  hours  in  passing  around  the  plaza,  the 
saints,  who  doubtless  enjoyed  the  airing,  were  borne  into 
the  church  in  good  time  to  escape  a  rising  shoAver.  Such 
religious  ceremonies  as  these  are  illustrative  of  Catholicism 
as  we  find  it  in  Quito,  and,  indeed,  through  a  large  portion 
of  South  America.  So  supremely  ignorant  are  the  people, 
so  thoroughly  indoctrinated  in  the  sujjerstitious  teachings 
of  native  and  foreign  priests,  that  any  reformatory  move- 
ments, leading  to  a  religion  less  material  and  of  higher 
spiritual  conceptions,  must  necessarily  be  slow. 

Of  social  life  in  Quito,  of  the  customs  and  character 
of  its  inhabitants,  their  vices  and  virtues,  we  will  not 
speak,  as  we  have  already  dwelt  upon  these  in  our  de- 
scription of  Caracas,  and  life  in  one  of  these  Spanish  cap- 
itals is  but  a  photographic  picture  of  that  in  the  other. 
We  must  allude,  however,  to  one  c%use,  beyond  its  in- 
efficient population,  which  must  ever  tend  to  retard  the 
prosperity  of  the  city.  We  can  hardly  predict  for  it  the 
glorious  future  which  some  foresee.  Nature,  although  she 
has  done  much  for  the  city,  has  failed  to  give  it  the  one 
thing  needful — a  stable  soil.  There  must  necessarily  be  a 
stagnation  of  all  enterprise,  an  ever-present  discourage- 
ment to  the  entering  upon  any  great  public  or  architec- 
tural work,  where,  in  every  few  decades  at  least,  the  move- 
ments of  the  earth  pile  the  most  labored  of  man's  works 
into  ruins  ;  and,  -without  these,  to  give  expression  to  a 
people's  progress,  no  advancement  has  ever  been  rendered 
permanent.  Quito's  isolation  and  earthquakes  are  balanced 
against  its  delightful  climate  and  magnificent  views. 

Distant  from  Quito  about  three  hours'  ride  is  the  cele- 
brated Hacienda  of  Chillo,  which  must  be  noticed  in  con- 
nection with  our  hasty  sketch  of  the  capital.  To  reach  it 
we  cross  the  Puengasi  Hills,  which  border  the  city  upon 
the  east,  and  then  pass  through  the  beautiful  valley  of 


HACIENDA  OF  CmLLO.  237 

Chillo,  one  of  those  lovely  little  vales  into  which  the 
plateau  is  broken  by  the  low  transverse  and  longitudinal 
ranges,  between  the  two  main  Cordilleras.  It  is  closed 
upon  the  south  by  the  rugged  walls  of  Rumiiiagui,  while 
Oldening  to  the  north  into  the  valley  of  the  Esmeraldas. 
In  the  quiet  and  picturesque  character  of  its  scenery,  iti 
is  the  rival  of  the  valley  of  Chirabo,  that  lies  upon  the 
western  slope  of  the  Andes.  The  Hacienda  of  Chillo  was 
established  as  a  Jesuit  mission  station  soon  after  the  con- 
quest. The  building  has  been  often  remodelled,  but  is  still 
undermined  by  old  vaults  and  passages.  Its  architecture 
is  that  of  the  sixteenth  cent«iry ;  corridors  extend  nearly 
the  entire  length  of  the  building,  the  walls  being  deco- 
rated with  frescoed  paintings  of  the  Muses  and  various 
designs.  A  vaulted  entrance  leads  to  the  chapel,  which 
occupies  the  centre  of  the  building.  It  is  small,  but  suffi- 
ciently large  to  accommodate  the  Indians,  about  two 
hundred  in  number,  belonging  to  the  liacienda.  This 
church  contains  Titian's  beautiful  painting,  "  The  Cruci- 
fixion," which  was  brought  here  by  the  Jesuits,  and  has 
been  retained,  notwithstanding  several  efforts  that  have 
been  made  to  remove  it  to  Spain.  During  one  of  the  late 
revolutions  in  Ecuador,  it  was  secreted  in  the  vaults  of 
the  hacienda,  and  suffered  considerable  injury  from  damp- 
ness. The  surrounding  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out, 
ornamented  by  a  lively  fountain,  and  rendered  fragrant 
by  lemon-trees,  white  with  blossoms,  while  loaded  with 
mature  fruit.  During  a  recent  earthquake,  a  tower  and 
clock  occupying  the  centre  of  the  building  were  thrown 
down,  and  have  not  since  been  rebuilt.  While  upon  our 
excursions  about  the  capital,  we  were  often  here  enter- 
tained ;  and  thus  many  of  our  most  pleasant  recollections 
of  the  Quito  valley  are  connected  with  this  interesting 
Hacienda  of  Chillo. 


CHAPTER     XVII. 

MOUJfTAINS    ABOUT   THE    VALLEY    OF    QUITO. 

Groups  of  Volcanoes.— Quitonian  Peaks. — What  gives  tliem  their  Intei-- 
est. — Chimborazo. — Its  Summit  gained  by  M.  Eemy. — Sangai. — Coto- 
paxi. — Antisana. — Pichincha. — Our  Ascent. — Wild  Scene  from  its 
Summit. — Down  its  Crater. — A  Thunder-storm  within. — Climbing 
out. — Lost  upon  the  Volcano. — Eeturu  to  Quito. 

The  volcanoes  of  the  New  World — unlike  those  of 
the  Old,  which  are  generally  placed  upon  the  islands — are 
situated  upon  the  continental  land,  in  connection  with  its 
great  mountain-axes;  and,  moreover,  curiously  disposed 
in  five  great  linear  groups.  Humboldt,  in  a  geognostic  and 
geographic  description  of  the  volcanoes  of  the  Americas, 
designates  these  as  the  group  of  Mexico,  of  Central 
America,  of  New  Granada  and  Quito,  of  Peru  and  Bo- 
livia, and  of  Chili.*  More  than  ninety  volcanoes  are  em- 
braced by  these  series,  of  which  number  foi-ty-eight  still 
give  evidence  of  activity.  The  distance  between  the  most 
northern  in  Mexico  and  the  most  southern  in  Chili  is  al- 
most five  thousand  miles ;  the  greatest  distance  between 
any  two  of  the  groups  is  found  separating  the  clusters  of 
Quito  from  that  of  Bolivia,  a  stretch  of  nine  hundred  and 
sixty  miles.  The  volcanoes  in  each  assemblage  have  a 
linear  meridional  disposition  ;  those  in  Chili  being  set  along 

•  Sea  "  Cosmos,"  vol.  v.,  pp.  265,  283. 


f 


W 


^^--  »^-j--^i^'  *^^'^ 


VOLCANIC   GROUPS.  239 

a  stretch  of  one  thousand  miles,  while  those  about  Quito 
are  crowded  upon  a  line  of  four  hundred  and  seventy-two 
miles.  The  group  of  Central  America  comprises  the 
greatest  number,  having  twenty-nine  volcanic  peaks, 
of  which  eighteen  are  still  active.  But  Chili  claims 
the  honor  of  having  the  highest  mountain  of  tlie  series, 
Aconcagua,  which  rises  23,200  feet  above  the  Pacific — 
1,700  feet  higher  than  Chimborazo,  yet  6,000  feet  below 
the  summit  of  the  highest  peak  of  the  Himalayas.  The 
Peruvian  and  Bolivian  group  names  the  snowy  peaks, 
Gulateiri,  Sahama,  Sorata,  and  lUimani,  that  look  down 
upon  the  loftiest  table-lands  of  the  New  World — the 
Plateau  of  Bolivia.  Here  is  Lake  Titicaca,*  lifted  up  in 
the  air  to  a  height  twice  as  great  as  the  elevation  of 
Mount  Washington. 

But  the  grandest  of  these  groups  is  the  one  which  cir- 
cles, with  its  snow-mantled  peaks,  the  valley  of  Quito. 
The  volcanoes  of  this  cluster  are  found  between  Sangai, 
two  degrees  south  of  the  equator,  and  the  Volcan  de  To- 
Ihna,  live  degrees  north,  a  distance,  before  stated,  of  four 
hundred  and  seventy-two  miles.  They  are  set  in  two 
lines,  along  or  near  the  axes  of  the  two  main  coi'dilleras, 
into  which  the  equatorial  Andes  are  divided.  Along  the 
Western  Cordillera  rise  Caraguairazo,  Iliniza,  Pichincha, 
and  Cotocachi ;  while  fronting  them  in  long  line  stand, 
upon  the  Eastern  Cordillera,  eight  noble  peaks,  stretching 
from  the  fiery  Sangai  upon  the  south,  to  the  beautiful 
peak  of  Imbabura  upon  the  north.  About  the  centre  of 
this  row,  advanced  a  little  out  upon  the  plain,  stands 
Cotopaxi,  the  most  symmetrical  of  Andean  volcanoes. 

Grand  did  those  mountains  appear  to  us,  as,  having 

*  The  elevation  of  this  lake  is  12, '/OS  feet  above  the  ocean-level.  It 
empties  its  v/aters  by  El  Desaguadero  into  Lake  Aullagas,  which  has  no 
outlet,  its  waters  being  removed  by  evaporation.  Both  these  lakes,  like 
Lake  Valencia,  in  Venezuela,  are  undergoing  rapid  dcsiccatiou. 


240        MOUNTAINS  ABOUT  THE  VALLEY  OF  QUITO. 

crossed  the  western  range  from  the  Pacific,  we  journeyed 
between  them  np  the  plateau.  On  either  side,  stretched 
along  the  unbroken  walls  of  the  Eastern  and  Western 
Cordilleras,  and  upon  their  crest,  stood  those  ice-crowned 
peaks,  which,  kindled  by  the  sunset,  seemed  like  beacon- 
fires  set  along  the  darkened  battlements  of  the  sierras. 
Often  have  we  watched  the  effect  of  the  evening  sun  upon 
the  snow-fields  of  those  lofty  volcanoes.  As  the  light 
wanes,  the  prismatic  tints  of  the  snowy  peaks  almost  im- 
pei-ceptibly  blend  Avith  the  roseate  colorings  of  the  clouds, 
which  form  the  background  to  the  mountains.  'Tis  an 
arctic  scene,  painted  with  all  the  rich  hues  of  the  tropics. 
Rarely  does  Nature  so  blend  the  elements  of  beauty  and 
sublimity. 

The  mountains  about  the  valley  of  Quito  are  exceeded 
in  height  by  several  of  the  Chilian  and  Peruvian  groups. 
Chimborazo,  of  the  Quitonian  series,  is  surpassed  by  at 
least  four  of  those  lofty  peaks,  if  we  may  rely  upon  the 
estimated  elevation  of  those  mountains,  which  is  as  yet 
somewhat  unsatisfactory.  But  the  volcanoes  of  Qviito 
have  a  deeper  interest  attached  to  them  than  belongs  to 
their  loftier  rivals,  on  account  of  their  associations  with 
the  labors  and  triumphs  of  the  most  devoted  heroes  of 
science.  "  Wherever  intellectual  tendencies  prevail,"  re- 
flects Humboldt,  "  wherever  a  rich  harvest  of  ideas  has 
been  excited,  leading  to  the  advancement  of  several  sci- 
ences at  the  same  time,  fame  remains,  as  it  were,  locally 
attached  for  a  long  time."  Nature  seems  almost  without 
expression,  unless  animated  by  human  thought  and  achieve- 
ment. As  eternal  as  are  the  mountains  of  Quito,  so  en- 
during will  be  the  names  Humboldt,  Condamine,  Bouguer, 
and  Boussingault,  whose  indefatigable  labors  among  the 
equatorial  Andes  have  made  such  valuable  contributions 
to  physical  science. 

Of   the   twenty-two   peaks   of  the   Quitonian   group, 


CHIMBOEAZO.  241 

which  push  above  the  Hue  of  perpetual  snow,  but  nine- 
teen are  properly  volcanoes,  and  the  grandeur,  even  of 
the  larger  number  of  these,  consists  not  in  the  play  of  vol- 
canic forces,  for  sixteen  of  these  have  either  become  ex- 
tinct or  dormant.  For  ages  these  have  stood  inactive ; 
some  with  broken  walls,  others  with  their  sides  scarred 
by  dark  streams  of  lava.*  Of  all  the  peaks,  volcanic  and 
otherwise,  that  stand  about  the  valley  of  Quito,  Chimbo- 
razo  is  the  grandest ;  Cotopaxi  (some,  however,  think  Tun- 
guragua)  is  the  most  nearly  perfect  type  of  a  volcanic  cone ; 
Antisana  is  peerless  in  beauty  ;  Sangai  is  the  most  active ; 
and  Pichincha,  from  its  association  with  science,  possesses, 
perhaps,  a  greater  interest  than  any  of  the  others.  Let  us 
look  at  each  of  these. 

Chimborazo,  the  most  southern  of  the  peaks  of  the 
Western  Cordillera,  first  claims  our  attention.  It  rises 
21,422  feet  above  the  Pacific.  "We  have  already  spoken 
of  the  impression  produced  upon  the  mind  by  this  moun- 
tain, when  viewed  from  the  western  coast.  Seen  from  that 
stand-point,  it  appears  like  a  truncated  cone ;  from  the 
table-lands  it  presents  an  irregular  outline.  The  moun- 
tain seems  to  have  suffered  terrible  convulsions,  and  now 
stands  as  a  shattered  dome,  supported  by  gigantic  but- 
tresses of  trachytic  rock.  Chimborazo  has  been  classed 
by  some  as  a  volcano.  But  there  are  no  traditions  of  its 
activity,  and,  as  Humboldt  has  observed,  it  presents  none 
of  the  distinctive  characteristics  of  a  volcano,  and  is  des- 
titute of  any  crater-like  opening.  That  careful  observer 
says :    "  I  reckon  as  volcanoes,  besides  those  which  are 

*  In  the  Eastern  Cordillera,  almost  opposite  Chimborazo,  stands  the 
beautiful  volcano  called  Altar,  the  walls  of  whose  crater  have  fallen  in, 
leaving  portions  still  standmg,  so  that  the  whole  presents  the  appearance 
of  a  ruined  fortification.  Although  most  of  the  volcanoes  of  the  Andes 
throw  out  during  their  eruptions  only  streams  of  water  and  mud,  yet 
we  find  four  immense  lava-streams  upon  the  slopes  of  Antisana,  and  ono 
marks  the  sides  of  Tunguragua, 

n 


242        MOUNTAINS  ABOUT  THE  VALLEY   OF   QUITO. 

Still  burning  and  active,  those  volcanic  formations  whose 
old  eruptions  belong  to  historic  times,  or  of  which  the 
structure  and  eruptive  masses  (ci'aters  of  elevation  and 
eruption,  lavas,  scorise,  pumice-stone,  and  obsidians)  char- 
acterize them,  without  reference  to  any  tradition,  as  volca- 
noes whicli  have  long  been  extinct.  Unopened  trachytic 
cones  and  domes,  or  unopened  long  trachytic  ridges,  such 
as  Chimborazo  and  Iztaccihuatl,  are  excluded."  *  No 
"  banner  of  smoke,"  or  thunder  of  volcanic  fires,  inspires 
our  reverence  for  Chimborazo.  Its  massiveness,  its  dizzy 
sweep  of  precipice,  its  heaven-piercing  height,  the  storms 
that  break  about  its  summit,  do  this.  Words  ai-e  power- 
less to  convey  any  conception  of  the  feelings  of  awe  and 
wonder  inspired  by  the  massive  form  and  towering  height 
of  that  peerless  mountain.  Upon  the  top  of  our  own 
Mount  "Washington  place  Etna,  a  mountain  over  ten 
thousand  feet  in  height,  and  upon  that  pile  Vesuvius,  and 
you  will  still  fall  several  hundred  feet  below  the  summit 
of  the  giant  of  the  Andes,  Although  standing  beneath 
the  ardent  sun  of  the  equator,  where  tropical  forests  girdle 
its  base,  over  five  thousand  feet  of  its  height  are  wrapped 
in  the  snaws  of  an  eternal  winter.  AVrote  Colonel  Staun- 
ton, the  lamented  artist  of  our  expedition,  after  watching, 
with  all  the  enthusiasm  of  his  nature,  the  first  unveiling 
to  ns  of  the  Andes:  "The  clouds  lifted  just  at  sunset, 
and  permitted  us  one  view  of  the  hoary  head  of  Chimbo- 

*  Prof.  Orton,  we  observe,  in  his  enumevation  of  the  principal  peaks 
of  the  Ecuadorian  Andes,  classifies  Chimborazo  as  a  volcano.  This  dif- 
ference in  classification  may  result  from  different  views  respecting  the 
distinctive  characteristics  of  volcanic  mountains.  We  cannot  but  regard, 
however,  as  most  nearly  correct,  that  based  upon  the  geologic  structure 
of  the  mountain,  rather  than  that  dependent  upon  accidental  phenomena. 
The  rocks  mentioned  as  found  upon  the  flanks  of  Chimborazo  are  not  ex- 
clusively volcanic  products ;  also  the  hot  springs  upon  its  north  side 
afford  no  evidence  in  favor  of  its  being  a  volcano,  for  these  are  often 
found  far  removed  from  volcanic  mountains. 


ITS  SUMMIT  GAINED  BY  M.   EEMY.  243 

razo  ;  but  that  is  enough  for  a  lifetime."  It  is  a  feeling 
of  reverence  that  one  experiences,  as  he  has  unveiled  to 
him  this  Colossus  of  the  Andes.  By  no  other  exhibition 
of  hei-self  does  Nature  so  overpower  us  with  her  greatness 
and  grandeur.  Shortly  after  our  return  from  our  wander- 
ings among  the  Andes,  we  were  privileged  to  visit  the 
Falls  of  Niagara.  It  was  our  first  visit.  We  were  disap- 
pointed. We  viewed  them  from  every  stand-point :  we 
looked  down  from  above  ;  we  looked  up  from  below  ;  we 
watched  them  from  the  front ;  we  went  behind  the  sheet 
of  water  ;  but  the  rush,  and  plunge,  and  roar  of  Niagara, 
failed  to  inspire  in  us  those  feelings  of  sublimity  that  we 
felt  as  we  stood  in  the  silent  presence  of  the  mighty 
Chimborazo.  Nature  is  never  so  grand,  so  awe-inspiring, 
as  in  the  awful  i*epose  of  her  giant  mountains. 

During  early  morning  Chimborazo  is  generally  free 
from  vapors ;  but  later,  as  the  heated  columns  of  air  rise 
from  the  plains,  and  come  in  contact  with  its  icy  sides,  the 
dome  is  quickly  capped  with  clouds,  swept  and  whirled 
by  the  frigid  currents  which  push  down  the  slopes  of 
the  mountains.  What  an  ^olus  indeed  it  would  be,  had 
it  been  placed  in  the  Boreal  regions,  instead  of  under  the 
tropics  !  Its  crest  has  been  reached  but  once  by  man  ; 
yet  the  condor,  the  "kingly  bird  of  the  Andes,"  often 
soars,  on  balanced  wings,  far  above  its  summit.  Humboldt 
and  Bonpland  attempted  its  ascent  in  1802,  but  failed. 
In  1831,  Boussingault  and  Hall  reached  a  point  only 
eighteen  hundred  feet  below  the  summit,  three  hundred 
feet  higher  than  the  elevation  attained  by  Humboldt  and 
his  companion  ;  but  difficulty  of  respiration,  and  the  den- 
sity of  the  clouds,  forced  them  back.  But  upon  the  third 
of  November,  1856,  its  summit  was  first  reached  by  M. 
Jules  Remy  and  Mr.  Brenckly.  The  view,  however,  was 
entirely  cut  ofl"  by  heavy  clouds  that  enveloped  the  moun- 
tain.   These  travellers  determined,  by  the  boiling  of  water 


244        MOUNTAINS   ABOUT   THE  VALLEY  OF   QUITO. 

(at  171.5°  F.),  the  lieight  of  the  mountain  to  be  21,467 
feet,  forty  more  than  obtained  by  the  trigonometrical 
measurement  of  Humboldt,  made  upon  the  high  plain 
of  Tapia,  near  Riobamba,  in  1803. 

Situated  in  the  Eastern  Cordillera,  a  little  out  of  the 
axis  of  the  range,  in  a  southeast  direction  from  Chimbo- 
razo,  is  Sangai,  the  most  terrible  volcano  in  the  world.  It 
is  17,120  feet  in  height,  and,  although  in  a  state  of  con- 
stant activity,  it  is  jierpetually  wrapped  in  snow.  It  fre- 
quently sprinkles  with  ashes  the  forests  of  the  Pacific 
coast,  and,  during  its  eruptions,  it  makes  its  thunders  to 
be  heard  one  hundred  miles  around. 

Cotopaxi,  whose  position  relative  to  the  Eastern  Cor- 
dillera has  been  given,  is  a  peak  with  which  Chimborazo 
must  share  its  honors.  Its  height  is  18,880  feet;  yet  it 
seems  scarcely  half  that  estimate.  But  we  must  not  for- 
get that  it  stands  upon  elevated  table-lands,  the  height  of 
which  Vesuvius,  piled  upon  Mount  Washington,  would  fail 
to  measure.  About  three  thousand  feet  of  its  summit  are 
covered  with  snow.  Since  1742,  there  have  been  seven 
eruptions  of  the  volcano,  all  of  which  have  been  accom- 
panied with  ejected  floods  of  water  and  mud,  or  by  storms 
of  sand  and  ashes,  which  have  devastated  the  surrounding 
plains  of  Callao,  Mulalu,  and  Latacunga.  It  has  never 
thrown  out  lava-streams.  When  in  a  state  of  rest,  as  at 
present,  only  light  smoke-clouds,  at  times  almost  imper- 
ceptible, float  about  its  crater.  These,  with  its  occasional 
deep  mutterings,  are  the  only  indications  of  the  slumber- 
ing forces  beneath.  When  in  actual  eruption  its  explosions 
can  be  heard  at  a  distance  of  over  five  hundred  miles,  and 
ashes,  pumice-stone,  and  plutonic  rocks,  are  hurled  from 
its  crater  and  scattered  over  the  plains  for  leagues  around. 
Rocks  fifteen  feet  square  have  been  tossed  a  distance  of 
nine  miles.  Until  1870,  its  crater  was  unseen  by  man. 
During  the  summer  of  that  yoar,  a  party  of  Spaniards 


PICHINCHA.  245 

scaled  the  mountain,  and  affirmed  that  they  found  seven 
craters ! 

Going  north  from  Cotopaxi,  we  come  to  the  dome- 
shaped  Antisana,  towering  to  a  height  of  19,137  feet,  its 
summit  heavily  capped  with  eternal  snows.  Down  its 
deeply-furrowed  sides  run  immense  streams  of  lava,  poured 
from  its  crater  long  ages  before  the  conquest ;  we  traced 
one  of  these  far  down  into  the  wikl  forest  upon  the  east- 
ern slope  of  the  Andes.  The  portion  which  is  covered 
with  snow  is  beautifully  rounded,  so  that  in  the  sunset  it 
appears  like  a  vast  golden  dome.  Upon  the  flanks  of 
this  volcano,  5,600  feet  higher  than  the  Hospitium  of  St. 
Bernard,  is  situated  the  famous  hacienda  which  bears  the 
name  of  the  mountain. 

In  the  Western  Cordillera,  rising  abruptly  from  the 
outskirts  of  the  city  of  Quito,  stands  the  interesting  vol- 
cano Pichincha.  Situated  almost  directly  under  the  equa- 
tor, its  elevation  of  nearly  three  miles  (15,827  feet),  which, 
in  a  temperate  climate,  would  render  it  a  snow-crowned 
mountain,  here  scarcely  raises  its  summit  above  the  line 
of  perpetual  snow.  Its  eruptions,  the  last  of  which  oc- 
curred in  the  year  1660,  have  always  been  attended  with 
much  damage  to  the  city  of  Quito,  located  as  it  is  upon 
its  very  base.  It  is  a  mountain  not  without  an  historical 
interest;  for  on  its  elevated  slopes  was  fought,  in  1819, 
the  celebrated  battle  of  Pichincha,  by  the  republicans, 
under  Simon  Bolivar,  against  the  Spaniards,  at  an  altitude 
of  10,800  feet;  probably  the  greatest  height  at  which  any 
battle  was  ever  fought. 

An  intense  longing  to  have  a  peep  into  the  crater  of 
this  volcano  led  us,  while  at  Quito,  to  mature  plans  for  a 
trip  to  its  summit.  Ascending  by  a  gentle  grade  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  we  soon  left  far  below  us  tlie  fine  and 
well-cultivated  plateau  of  Quito  ;  its  undulating  plains, 
spreading  out  more  than  forty  miles  in  breadth,  broken  by 


246        MOUNTAINS   AEOUT   THE  VALLEY  OF  QUITO. 

mountain-spurs  and  isolated  ranges.  Situated  in  a  pleas- 
ant valley  through  which  we  passed,  is  the  Ihdian  town 
of  Lloa,  comprised  of  muddnits,  thatched  with  long  grass. 
From  here  a  short  ride  brought  us  to  the  Hacienda  of 
Lloa,  formerly  a  Jesuit  mission-station,  where  we  stopped 
for  the  night,  intending  to  take  an  early  start  the  follow- 
ing morning  for  the  crater.  The  building  has  an  anti- 
quated appearance,  with  its  old  archways,  tiled  roof,  and 
environs  of  crumbling  walls,  overrun  with  vines.  We  were 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  Andes ;  yet,  despite  the  wildness, 
the  evening  scenery  possessed  an  unusual  aspect  of  repose 
and  beauty.  The  clouds  which  had  hung  about  the  sum- 
mit of  the  volcano  during  the  day  broke  away  just  at 
sunset,  and  the  golden  hue  imparted  to  the  mountain- 
ridges  contrasted  beautifully  with  the  deej)  green  of  inter- 
vening valleys  and  forests. 

Some  time  before  the  light  indicated  the  approach  of 
morning,  we  were  astir;  for,  in  order  to  obtain  a  good 
view  of  the  crater,  it  should  be  reached  by  sunrise,  before 
obscured  by  rising  mist.  Subjected  to  considerable  delay 
in  procuring  a  guide  willing  to  accompany  us  into  the 
crater,  it  was  late  before  we  were  mounted.  Once  started, 
we  ascended  rapidly  by  a  forest  trail.  A  short  ascent 
through  this  zone  of  tree-vegetation  brought  us  uj^on  a 
paramo,  or  moorland,  which  sweeps  iip  to  within  a  few 
liundred  feet  of  the  scoriae-covered  summit  of  the  volcano. 
From  this  point  the  view  was  grand.  We  were  above 
the  clouds,  through  which  rents  torn  here  and  there 
would  allow  us  a  glimpse  of  the  valley  of  Quito,  far  be- 
low. The  volcanoes  of  the  Andes  stood  out  like  islands 
from  the  clouds  that  concealed  their  bases.  Cotopaxi 
never  appeared  more  grand  than  standing,  as  it  did,  with 
its  cone  raised  more  than  a  mile  above  the  clouds,  with 
light  columns  of  smoke  issuing  from  its  crater.  Antisana 
and  Sincholagua,  with  several  other  snow-crowned  moun- 


EDGE  OF  THE   CRATEE.  247 

tains,  appeared  lialf  immersed  in  the  clonds,  wbicli  were 
now  rolling  up  the  sides  of  Pichincha,  threatening  to  de- 
stroy our  view  of  the  crater.  Apprehending  this,  we 
spui'red  on  our  horses  as  rapidly  as  possible,  being  obliged 
to  ascend  the  sides  of  the  mountain  in  a  zigzag  course. 
The  effect  of  the  rarefied  atmosphere  was  very  apparent 
upon  our  animals,  which  breathed  with  great  difficulty. 
Arriving  within  a  short  distance  of  the  summit,  we  were 
obliged  to  dismount,  the  sides  growing  veiy  precipitous, 
and  covered  with  ashes  and  scoriae,  which  afforcted  only  a 
treacherous  footing.  Securing  our  horses  to  some  rock- 
masses,  that  had  been  arrested  in  their  fall  by  a  transversal 
depression  in  the  slope  of  the  mountain,  we  commenced 
to  ascend  on  foot.  Light  snow  a  few  inches  in  depth  cov- 
ered the  debris,  rendering  our  j^rogress  exceedingly  toil- 
some ;  so  that  we  could  mount  but  a  few  yards,  when, 
breathless,  we  would  sink  upon  the  snow.  Half  an  hour 
was  thus  consumed  in  reaching  the  summit ;  when,  ex- 
hausted with  the  ascent,  we  threw  ourselves  upon  the  edge 
of  the  crater,  and  gazed  over  Into  the  frightful  opening, 
which  appears  about  a  mile  in  diameter,  and,  according  to 
barometrical  observation,  is'  over  twenty-five  hundred 
feet  in  depth,  its  precipitous  walls  rising,  in  some  places, 
almost  perpendicularly  from  the  bottom.  From  the  deep, 
«ulphur-incrusted  crevices  rolled  slowly  up  heavy  columns 
of  steam  and  smoke.  It  was  a  scene  of  the  wildest  and 
most  awful  grandeur.  The  clouds  below  cut  us  off  from 
the  world  beneath,  and  we  w^ere  standing  upon  a  fiery 
island,  an  illimitable  sea  rolling  away  on  every  side,  its 
expanse  relieved  only  by  the  ice-crowned  summits  of  the 
volcanoes,  which  pierced  its  surface  like  vast  icebergs,  rend- 
ering the  whole  a  most  dismal  arctic  scene.  Cotopaxi,  Avith 
its  smoke-clouds,  was  the  Erebus  amid  the  drear  desola- 
tion of  ice,  and  cloud,  and  smoke.  The  easterly  trade- 
winds  swept  over  the  mountain,  but  with  little  momentum ; 


248        MOUNTAINS   ABOUT   THE  VALLEY   OF  QUITO. 

for  at  the  top  of  Picliinclia  the  air  is  only  about  one-half 
(0.5G8)  as  heavy  as  at  the  sea,  consequently  the  force  of 
the  winds  is  jjroportionally  less.  Occasionally  we  would 
be  startled  by  the  dull,  heavy  rumbling  of  the  rocks,  which, 
loosened  from  the  sides  of  the  crater,  plunged  with  fearful 
leaps  into  the  gulf  below. 

We  had  determined  to  reach,  if  possible,  the  bottom 
of  the  crater,  and,  after  resting  a  few  moments  upon  the 
edge,  we  commenced  the  descent.  Twice  before  we  had 
attemptec>it,  but  failed.  The  first  attempt  was  made  by 
Prof,  Orton  and  an  assistant,  but,  after  reaching  a  point 
several  hundred  feet  below  the  summit,  they  were  stopped 
by  a  sudden  precij^ice,  which  rendered  farther  progress 
impossible.  The  second  was  made  by  Bushnell  and  the 
writer;  we  had  scarcely  commenced  the  descent,  when 
heavy  clouds  closed  round  the  mountain,  filling  the  crater, 
and  rendering  objects  invisible  at  a  distance  of  a  few  feet, 
thus  making  the  attempt  utterly  impracticable.  Our  third 
united  attempt  proved  more  successful.  We  entered  the 
crater  upon  the  southeastei'n  side,  and,  following  our  In- 
dian guide,  scrambled  down  the  steep  cliffs,  shrinking 
close  to  the  rocky  walls,  as  we  saw  the  stones  loosened, 
plunging  over  precipices,  setting  others  free,  until  a  per- 
fect avalanche  rushed  and  thundered  down  a  thousand  feet 
below  us.  At  times,  a  chasm  or  precipice  would  confront 
us,  and  we  were  obliged  to  drop  and  receive  one  another 
from  ledge  to  ledge.  Our  hands  became  so  benumbed, 
from  clinging  to  the  icy  rocks,  that  they  were  of  little  ser- 
vice, and  our  footing  was  so  slippery  that  often  it  would 
give  way,  causing  a  momentary  thrill,  as  we  shrank 
closer  to  the  cliff.  Thinking  only  of  reaching  the  bottom, 
the  thought  how  we  were  to  scale  these  precipices  again 
scarcely  occurred  to  us.  In  several  instances,  those  in  ad' 
vance  narrowly  escaped  the  rocks  loosened  by  those  behind. 
At  last  Ave  reached  the  talus,  or  steep  slope  of  debris  at 


IN   THE   CEATEE.  249 

the  foot  of  the  cliff!  Down  this  we  hurried,  half  sliding, 
till,  breathless  with  excitement  and  our  exertions,  we  stood 
upon  the  bottom.  This  consisted  of  a  plain  about  seven 
hundred  yards  in  diameter,  piled  round  the  edges  with  the 
rocks  broken  from  the  cliffs,  which  towered  up  half  a  mile 
on  every  side,  except  upon  the  west,  where  there  was  a 
deep  depression,  or  gorge.  Varying  a  trifle  from  the 
centre  of  the  plain,  Avas  a  little  hill,  about  two  hundred 
feet  in  height,  broken  by  deep  fissures,  incrusted  with  sul- 
phur, deposited  from  the  vapory  exhalations  which  rise 
from  the  openings.  We  found  a  few  plants  scattered  over 
the  bottom  of  the  crater,  which  served  in  a  measure  to 
relieve  the  chaotic,  life-forsaken  aspect  of  that  rock- walled 
caldron.* 

Within  those  amphitheatral  walls  Nature  enacts,  Avith- 
out  a  spectator,  her  grandest  and  most  thrilling  scenes.  It 
was  indeed  a  strangely  wild  and  chaotic  scene,  when  the 
rain,  that  had  been  threatening,  broke  over  our  heads  in  a 
fearful  storm  of  thunder  and  hail.  Heavy  clouds  drifted 
over  the  edge  of  the  crater,  and,  settling  within,  shut  out 
the  sun  and  hid  from  view  the  upper  portion  of  the  sur- 
rounding walls.  We  were  seated  upon  some  rocks,  par- 
taking of  our  breakfast,  which  consisted  of  bread,  steamed 
over  the  fissures  exhaling  vapors  heated  almost  to  the 
boiling-point,  Avhen  a  low  growl  of  thunder,  and  the  deep 
rumbling  of  loosened  rocks,  told  us  that  a  fearful  storm 
was  gathering  round  the  volcano.  The  rain  and  hail 
forced  us  to  the  shelter  of  some  shelving  ledges.  The 
storm  increased ;  the  thunders  growing  louder  and  rolling 
heavily  along  the  cliffs,  while  the  rocks  were  constantly 

*  The  following  is  a  list  of  plants  found  within  the  crater;  several 
of  these  species  were  also  observed  growing  without,  just  at  the  base  of 
the  scoria-cone :  Lunula  Per2tvia7ia,  Valeriana  plantagina,  V.  Bonplandi- 
ana,  Calcdium  longifolium,  Diplostcphium  rupesire,  Scnccio  crica/olhcs, 
Pernettya  parifolia,  also  a  species  of  Festuca,  and  Lupinus. 


250        MOUNTAINS  ABOUT  THE  VALLEY   OF  QUITO. 

ci'ashing  from  the  walls,  which  swept  np  in  dark,  unbroken 
precipices  more  than  twenty-five  hundred  feet  above  us. 
The  winds  hurled  the  clouds  within  in  eddying  masses,  or 
drove  them  fiercely  over  our  heads  across  the  crater.  The 
ground,  filled  with  vents,  emitting  hot,  suftbcating  vapors, 
appeared  ready  to  give  way  beneath  us.  It  seemed  as  if 
Pluto  and  all  the  infernal  gods  had  conspii-ed  to  punish 
our  intrusion  on  their  domains.  We  may  forget  the  cir- 
cumstances attendant  on  many  a  hiirried  lunch,  while  for- 
cing our  way  through  tangled  forests,  or  while  upon  lonely 
rivers,  but  always  vivid  will  be  our  recollections  of  the 
little  party,  and  each  incident  connected  with  the  meal 
spread  upon  the  plutonic  rocks  within  the  crater  of  Pi- 
chincha. 

We  remained  within  the  crater  about  an  hour,  securing 
some  interesting  miueralogical  specimens,  and  also  obtain- 
ing representatives  of  the  peculiar  species  of  plants  that 
we  found  growing  at  the  bottom,  and  then  commenced 
climbing  out.  The  ascent  was  extremely  toilsome ;  for, 
while  it  had  been  raining  at  the  bottom,  snow  had  been 
falling  above  to  a  considerable  depth,  and  this  rendered 
our  footing  doubly  insecure.  The  rarefaction  of  the  at- 
mosphere also  caused  almost  complete  exhaustion  to  fol- 
low our  exertions.  Up  we  climbed,  slowly  mounting,  at 
times,  by  the  assistance  of  our  guide.  Gaining  a  ledge 
where  we  might  rest,  we  would  throw  ourselves  down 
almost  in  despair  of  reaching  the  summit.  At  length, 
after  thi-ee  hours  of  hard  climbing,  we  once  more  stood 
safely  upon  the  rim  of  the  crater,  and,  as  we  looked  back 
into  the  abyss  whence  we  had  escaped,  we  gave  joyful 
expression  to  our  gratitude  by  singing  the  good  old  dox- 
ology : 

"  Praise  God  from  whom  all  blessings  flow, 

Praise  Him  all  creatures  here  below, 

Praise  Him  above,  ye  heavenly  host, 

Praise  Father,  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost." 


LOSING  THE  TRAIL.  251 

As  the  cliffs  sent  back  the  words,  we  felt  a  thrill  never 
caused  by  the  same  echo,  so  often  listened  to  before,  when 
thrown  from  the  walls  of  a  temple  of  man's  own  rearing. 
K  any  one  can  stand  upon  that  awful  altar  and  watch  the 
incense-clouds  of  smoke  as  they  ever  pour  toward  the 
heavens  ;  feel  the  rush  of  the  Avinds,  as,  unbroken  by  any 
obstacle,  they  hurry  almost  noiselessly  past ;  look  round 
upon  the  scarred  ramparts  of  the  amphitheatral  walls  ; 
listen  to  the  falling  rocks,  as  they  tell  of  the  ruin  of  the 
mountain  by  the  lapse  of  time  ;  permit  the  eye  to  drop 
three  miles  down  the  terraced  slope  of  the  Andes  toward 
the  Pacific,  or  to  range  eastward  across  the  valley  of  Quito 
to  the  great  Cordillera  that  piles  itself  all  along  the  hori- 
zon ;  and  watch  the  play  of  the  light  upon  the  ice-mantled 
peaks  of  Chimborazo,  Cotopaxi,  Antisana,  Cayambi,  and 
Cotocachi — if  any  one  can  stand  surrounded  by  such  an 
exhibition  of  Andean  grandeur,  and  not  feel  a  deeper  rev- 
erence for  Nature  and  her  great  Architect,  then  she  has, 
for  him,  no  scene  to  fire  the  soul  with  inspirations  of  awe 
and  homage. 

From  the  summit  of  the  mountain  we  descended  the 
cone  to  where  we  had  left  our  horses,  brushed  from  our 
saddles  the  snow  that  had  fallen  during  our  absence  in 
the  crater,  and  set  out  upon  our  return.  Night  overtook 
us  while  bewildered  in  the  forest  that  covers  the  basal 
portion  of  the  volcano.  Having  lost  our  trail,  we  wan- 
dered several  hours  in  hopes  of  extricating  ourselves  ;  but 
were  obliged  to  pass  a  wearisome  night  upon  the  slope  of 
the  mountain.  The  following  morning  discovered  to  us 
the  lost  trail,  which  soon  brought  us  upon  the  plateau, 
and  shortly  after  we  passed  under  the  old  arched  gateway, 
and  were  once  more  in  Quito. 


CHAPTER    XYIII. 

OVEK   THE    EASTERX    COEDIIXERA. 

Amazonian  Forest. — Preparations  for  our  Journey. — Our  Artist's  Grave. — 
Eeligious  Intolerance. — Across  the  Valley. — Mimosas. — Hacienda  of 
Itulcachi. — Tablon. — Sunset  among  the  Andes. — The  Home  of  the 
Incas. — Indigenous  Civilizations. — Condors. — Over  the  Crest. — View 
of  the  Amazonian  Valley. — First  Waters  of  the  Great  River. — Andean 
Eoad. — Eeception  at  Pajiallacta. — Indian  Burial. — Arrangements  for 
our  March  to  the  Napo. 

Resting  liigb  upon  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes, 
lies  the  flank  of  the  great  forest  which  throws  its  dense 
shade  over  the  larger  portion  of  the  Amazonian  Valley. 
From  the  Andes  it  stretches  two  thousand  miles  eastward 
to  the  Atlantic,  and  from  the  Llanos  of  Venezuela  upon 
the  north  sweeps  southward,  without  a  break,  to  the  Pam- 
pas of  Buenos  Ayres.  The  depths  of  that  primeval  forest 
have,  for  ages,  been  known  only  as  the  home  of  warring 
tribes  of  wild  Indians  ;  the  hum  of  civilization  has  scarcely 
approached  its  borders,  and  to-day  its  deepest  solitudes 
are  unbroken  save  by  the  never-ceasing  rush  of  its  hurry- 
ing rivers.  So  impenetrable  is  that  tropical  forest,  that 
the  interior  of  South  America  would  have  been  forever 
closed  against  man,  were  it  not  for  the  paths  ploughed  by 
powerful  rivers  through  its  tangled  mazes.  A  hundred 
streams,  leaping  down  from  the  Andes,  tear  open  passages 
all  along  the  western  front  of  the  foi'est,  and  then  join 


PREPAKATIONS  FOPw  OUR  JOURNEY.  253 

their  waters  to  swell  the  Great  River,  which  ploughs  a 
broad  pathway  for  over  three  thousand  miles  through  the 
very  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

After  spending  two  months  in  the  valley  of  Quito,  we 
commenced  preparations  for  our  journey  down  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  Andes,  through  this  forest  to  the  Atlantic. 
Our  intended  route  was  the  same  as  that  pursued  in  1541, 
by  Francisco  de  Orellana,  the  treachei-ous  deserter  of 
Gon9alo  Pizan-o,  the  brother  of  the  conqueror  of  Peru, 
in  his  journey  of  uniiaralleled  suffering,  through  the  wil- 
derness, in  search  of  "  El  Dorado."  He  found  not  the 
"  Gilded  King,"  but  discovered  wdiat  was  of  infinitely 
more  value  to  the  world — the  Amazons.*  Knowing  that 
all  supplies  of  provisions  might  be  withheld  by  the  In- 
dians, we  were  obliged  to  take  from  Quito  sufficient  to 
last  us  until  our  arrival  at  one  of  the  frontier  Brazilian 
towns  upon  the  Amazons — a  distance  of  one  thousand 
miles  through  an  unbroken  forest.  The  traveller  in  those 
wilds  must  place  but  little  dependence  upon  his  rifle  for 
food.  The  fact  that  where  the  vegetable  kingdom  is  over- 
luxuriant  the  animal  is  subordinated,  is  there  fully  illus- 
trated ;  even  the  natives,  with  all  their  skill,  secure  only 
a  precarious  subsistence.  Monkeys  and  jaguars  are  there  ; 
but  you  will  probably  only  hear  the  howl  of  the  latter, 
and  catch  unsatisfactory  glimpses  of  the  former,  trooping 
gallantly  and  safely  through  the  tops  of  the  forests  one 
hundred  feet  overhead.  Moreover,  all  Ecuadorians  were 
in  blissful  ignorance  of  that  portion  of  their  country. 
There  was,  indeed,  in  Quito,  one  delineation  of  the  Orien- 
tal portions  of  Ecuador,  by  Dr.  Villavicencio  ;  but,  like 
Mark  Twain's  maps,  it  had  been  gotten  up  with  more 
reference  to  picturesqueness  than  geographical  accuracy. 

*  The  mouth  of  the  Amazons  was  discovered  as  early  as  1500,  by 
Vincente  Yanez  Pinzon  ;  but  Orellana  was  the  first  to  navigate  its  waters, 
and  to  make  known  to  the  world  the  grand  proportions  of  the  river. 


254  OVEK  THE  EASTEEN  CORDILLEKA. 

No  reliable  information  could  be  obtained  concerning  the 
obstacles  we  might  encounter,  or  estimate  made  of  the 
time  which  would  be  consumed  in  penetrating  the  forest. 
This  uncertainty  also  constrained  us  to  see  that  our  sup- 
ply was  sufficiently  large  to  meet  any  emergency. 

Our  provisions  being  obtained,  and  carefully  secured 
in  sealed  cans,  to  preserve  them  from  the  excessive  hu- 
midity of  the  forest,  the  next  difficulty  was  respecting 
means  of  transportation.  Indian  arrieros  and  peons  with- 
out number  are  always  ready  for  a  trip  down  the  occi- 
dental slope  of  the  Andes ;  but  an  excursion  down  the 
opposite  side  is  what  few  of  them  care  to  undertake.  To 
secure  carriers  we  were  obliged  to  send  among  the  tribes 
inhabiting  those  regions.  The  curate,  who  possessed  ec- 
clesiastical jurisdiction  over  the  Indians  of  the  interior, 
was  the  only  person  through  whom  we  could  negotiate 
with  them.  After  several  weeks'  delay,  every  thing  was 
arranged,  and  just  one  day  before  the  close  of  October  we 
were  assured  positively,  for  the  last  time,  that  maiiana, 
horses  and  guides,  from  Papallacta,  a  little  Indian  village 
upon  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  just  at  the  com- 
mencement of  ti'ee-vegetation,  would  arrive  at  Quito  to 
take  us  to  the  former  place,  where,  discarding  our  horses, 
we  were  to  reorganize  our  train  for  the  march  through 
the  forest  to  the  Rio  Napo,  one  of  the  northern  atHnities 
of  the  Amazons. 

Upon  the  appointed  morning  the  cavalcade — over  a 
dozen  animals — accompanied  by  twice  the  number  of  un- 
•  couth  Indians,  came  clattering  into  the  court-yard  of  the 
Casa  Frances.  From  the  mingled  herd  five  of  the  best 
beasts  were  selected  for  our  party,  and  the  best  again  from 
this  chosen  number  for  the  heaviest  member  of  our  com- 
pany, who  even  then  had  little  occasion  to  feel  proud  of 
his  Tartar.  The  others  were  by  no  means  imposing  in 
appearance,  or  superbly  decked,  but  were  plainly  capari- 


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OUK  AKTIST'S   GKAVE.  255 

soned  with  cow-hide  bridles  and  curious  saddles  with  huge 
wooden  stirrups.  Having  started  our  baggage  in  advance, 
each  stepped  astride  his  Bucephalus,  bowed  Ioav  as  he 
passed  under  the  archway  leading  from  the  court-yard, 
and  we  were  galloping  through  the  streets  of  the  capital. 
Quitonians  gazed  in  mute  astonishment  upon  Avhat  they 
had  seen  but  once  before,  an  expedition  bound  for  the 
Oriente.  Many  were  the  prophecies  that  we  would  never 
be  heard  of  again. 

Leaving  the  outskirts  of  Quito,  our  path  led  us  across 
the  beautiful  plain  of  Inaquito,  which  spreads  out  to  the 
north  of  the  city.  There  is  always  a  saddened  feeling 
that  steals  over  one,  when  he  knows  that  he  is  taking  a 
last  farewell  of  scenes  which,  by  long  and  pleasant  asso- 
ciations, have  become  familiar.  Such  were  the  emotions 
we  experienced  then ;  still  they  were  awakened  not  alone 
by  the  fading  view  of  the  capital,  but  our  thoughts  were 
turned  to  feelings  of  subdued  sadness,  because  one  must 
be  left  behind.  During  our  short  sojourn  at  Quito  we 
had  laid  one  of  our  little  party,  Colonel  Staunton,  in  a 
foreign  grave,  and  it  was  just  to  our  right,  upon  the  plains 
of  Inaquito,  that  we  passed  the  little  cemetery  where  lay 
that  friend  who  had  shared  in  the  early  labors  of  the  ex- 
pedition, and  participated  with  us  the  delight  of  viewing, 
for  the  first  time,  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  tropic  scenes. 
Turning  from  a  gentle  rise  for  a  last  view  of  the  "  City  of 
the  Incas,"  our  eyes  wandered  from  its  towers  and  domes, 
and  lingered  upon  that  sacred  sjDot ;  and,  as  there  came 
pleasant,  sad  memories  of  the  past,  our  hearts  alone  could 
wdiisper  the  word — "  Farewell !  " 

Colonel  Phineas  Staunton  w^as  Vice-Chancellor  of  Ing- 
ham University,  Le  Roy,  New  York.  He  had  cherished,  with 
an  artist's  longing,  a  desire  to  visit  the  tropics ;  especially 
did  he  wish  to  sketch  the  wondrous  scenery  of  the  Andes. 
Said  he,  "  Church  has  painted  the  '  Heart  of  the  Andes ; ' 


256  OVER  THE  EASTEKN  COKDILLEEA. 

I  shall  paint  its  spirity  But  lie  had  another  object  in 
visiting  our  southern  continent,  which,  had  he  been  per- 
mitted to  realize  it,  would  have  been  of  incalculable  value 
to  science.  As  you  enter  the  large  Memorial  Hall,  sacred 
to  his  memory,  in  Le  Koy,  New  York,  you  observe,  just 
over  the  entrance,  poi'traits  of  three  noted  Korth- American 
Indian  chiefs.  They  are  paintings  by  Colonel  Staunton.  Im- 
pressed with  the  conviction  that  the  aboriginal  inhabitants 
of  the  New  World  were  doomed  to  speedy  extinction,  or 
that,  at  least,  all  their  physical  characteristics  would  soon 
be  obliterated,  he  pro2)osed  to  go  into  the  wildest  portions 
of  North,  and  also  of  South  America,  in  order  to  obtain 
the  best  representatives  of  the  race.  When  the  impor- 
tance of  these  to  the  future  ethnological  student  recurs  to 
our  minds,  stranger  still  seems  the  Providence  that  took 
him  from  us  in  the  midst  of  his  unfinished  plans.  When 
our  expedition  was  organized,  he  joined  it  as  its  artist, 
and  had  but  just  entered  into  the  work,  with  all  the  en- 
thusiasm of  his  nature,  when  the  fever  contracted  upon 
the  coast  took  him  from  us.  We  laid  him  just  beneath 
the  shadows  of  Pichincha,  and  to-day  there  is  a  lonely 
grave,  to  which  our  hearts  oft  revert,  amid  the  guarding 
mountains  of  the  Andes.  It  is  a  fitting  resting-place  for 
the  artist,  with  the  snow-crowned  mountains,  symbols  of 
his  own  purity,  standing  as  silent  sentinels  about  his 
grave. 

"  0,  beauteous  Earth !  his  worship  didst  thou  know, 

That  thou  shouldst  take  him  to  thy  very  heart, 
And  set  thy  taountains,  with  their  sun-kissed  snow. 

To  guard  his  precious  dust,  of  thine  a  part  ? 
Once  to  behold  that  vision  of  dehght, 

To  breathe  the  air  of  thine  eternal  spring ; 
And  then  his  soul,  exultant,  took  its  flight, 

To  dwell  forever  with  its  Lord  and  King. 
Grieve  not,  0  Earth  !  immortal  was  thy  child. 

And,  springing  from  his  consecrated  grave, 


KELIGIOUS  INTOLEEANCE.  257 

Behold  a  flower,  whose  splendoi'  undefiled 

May  yet  thy  darkened  people  cheer  and  save. 
Its  starry  rays  are  lighted  from  above, 
And,  in  its  heart,  the  crimson  Cross  of  Love."  * 

We  feel  impelled,  in  this  connection,  to  s])eak  of  the 
intolerant  spirit  of  Roman  Catholicism,  which  pei-vades 
and  animates  the  rejiublics  of  South  America — republics, 
yet  often  suppressing  liberty  of  conscience.  Prof.  Orton, 
before  the  open  grave  of  Colonel  Staunton,  around  which 
were  gathered  the  remaining  members  of  the  expedition, 
and  a  few  friends,  residents  of  Quito,  spoke  the  following 
words :  "  Yonder  city  of  Quito  has  stood  for  three  hundred 
years,  but  has  never  seen  such  a  day  as  this — a  Protestant 
burial  in  a  Protestant  burial-ground."  The  import  of  this 
remark  will  be  understood  when  we  observe  that  the 
Ecuadorian  Government  has,  under  ecclesiastical  influence, 
occupied  so  illiberal  a  position  as  virtually  to  exclude  all 
but  the  Catholic  faith,  refusing  even  to  enclose  a  burial- 
place  for  Protestant  foreigners  who  might  die  within  the 
country.  But  our  late  minister  to  Quito,  Hon.  W.  T. 
Coggeshall,  supported  by  protestations  from  our  govern- 
ment, succeeded  in  inducing  the  Quitonian  authorities  to 
set  apart  the  little  cemetery  to  which  we  have  alluded, 
and  that  was  to  be  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  Protestant 
residents  of  Quito.  Just  a  few  days  before  the  death  of 
our  friend,  the  cemetery  was  completed,  and  his  was  the 
first  "  Protestant  burial  in  a  Protestant  burial-ground "'  in 
the  Catholic  city  of  Quito. 

That  day  inaugurated  a  new  era  for  Ecuador.  It 
marked  the  first  step  taken  in  abandonment  of  that  blind 
and  suicidal  policy  which  has  so  long  hermetically  sealed 
her  against  the  entrance  of  that  foreign   element  which 

*  These  beautiful  lines  were  written  by  a  friend  of  Colonel  Staunton, 
upon  the  receipt  of  the  intelligence  of  his  death  and  burial  at  Quito. 
They  accompany  a  little  volume  in  memoriam  of  the  artist. 


258  OVEK  THE  EASTEEN   COEDILLEEA. 

alone  will  ever  develop  her  vast  natural  resources.  As  a 
result  of  the  fanatical  prejudice  against  Protestants,  there 
are,  at  present,  only  three  or  four  American  residents  in 
Quito.  Nominal  religious  freedom  is  now  enjoyed  in  most 
of  the  republics  of  Soutli  America,  though  trammelled  by 
meddling  and  arbitrary  legislation,  and  often  rendered  in- 
operative by  the  fury  of  an  impressible  populace,  led  by 
the  fanaticism  of  an  ignorant,  bigoted,  and  intolerant 
clergy.  Let  us  not  be  misunderstood.  Not  one  word 
would  we  say  against  Catholicism.  All  that  we  speak 
against  is  luikind  intolerance.  All  that  we  ask  is  a  kindly 
recognition  of  the  right  of  every  man  to  form  an  individual 
opinion  upon  every  question  involving  individual  respon- 
sibility, and  countenance  and  protection  in  the  enjoyment 
of  that  opinion.  This,  we  believe,  will  soon  be  secured 
throughout  South  America.  There  are  many  there  who 
feel  that  the  time  for  religious  intolerance  and  exclusive- 
ness  has  passed.  There  are  many  causes  at  work,  among 
which  are  none  stronger  than  the  demanded  commercial 
relations  that  must  soon  be  assumed,  which  will  speedily 
break  down  and  remove  those  factitious  barriers  that  have 
so  long  hedged  about  the  prosj^erity  and  advancement 
of  the  republics  of  our  sister  continent. 

From  this  digression  let  us  return  to  our  journey.  As 
Quito  lies  close  under  the  Western  Cordillera,  we  had  to 
traverse  the  entire  width  of  the  plateau,  which,  at  this 
point,  is  about  thirty  miles.  These  table-lands  are  not,  as 
might  be  inferred,  level  plains,  but,  besides  being  broken 
by  projecting  spurs  of  the  main  Cordilleras,  they  are 
traversed  by  deep  cauons,  with  banks  so  high  and  precip- 
itous that  we  were  often  obliged  to  follow  their  course  a 
considerable  distance  before  finding  a  practicable  crossing. 
Our  road  was,  at  times,  a  single  foot-path ;  at  others,  an 
innumerable  number  of  deep  ruts  or  paths,  anastomosing 
so  as  to  form  a  broad  net-work,  leading  across  uncultivated 


SENSITIVE  PLANTS.  259 

plains,  almost  destitute  of  vegetation.  But  a  portion  of 
the  valley  formed  a  pleasant  contrast  to  these  desolate 
stretches,  being  clothed  with  cactuses  and  several  species 
of  mimosa,  tliat  interesting  family  of  sensitive-plants  so 
largely  represented  in  the  tropics.  In  our  own  States  we 
have  only  a  few  species,  but  here  they  are  often  the  most 
numerous  and  conspicuous  forms,  towering  high  above  the 
other  vegetation.  We  have  already  described  the  Saman 
del  Guere,  near  Valencia,  in  Venezuela,  a  member  of  this 
family,  forming,  from  its  gigantic  size  and  graceful  pro- 
portions, the  central  object  in  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the 
valley  of  Aragua.  In  Southern  Brazil,  Fletcher  tells  us 
of  whole  groves  of  these  sensitive-plants,  which,  upon  the 
approach  of  evening,  fold  their  leaves,  and  open  them 
again  only  with  the  light  of  the  morning,  some  even  an- 
ticipating the  coming  day.  This  family  of  plants  are,  by 
a  wise  j^rovision,  furnished  with  sharp  prickles,  wliich  con- 
stitute an  effectual  protection  from  rude  approach.  Why 
they  should  fold  their  leaA^es  at  the  approach  of  evening  is 
inexplicable.*  It  tells  of  a  strange  sympathy  existing 
throughout  Nature,  animate  and  inanimate — of  the  laws  of 
which  we  are  yet  ignorant. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  arrived  at  the  Hacienda  of  Itul- 
cachi,  a  cattle-farm  and  bread-factory,  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  Eastern  Cordillera.  Learning  that  our  baggage 
had  not  arrived,  we  resolved  to  pass  the  night  here,  in 
hopes  that  it  might  come  up  during  the  evening.  There 
is  something  interesting  in  these  old  haciendas ;  perhaps 
the  same  interest  that  attaches  itself  to  any  ruins,  for 
they  are  generally  fallen  into  decay,  with  their  broken 

*  "  One  fact,  among  others,  showing  that  the  changes  are  not  caused 
by  the  light,  but  by  some  power  in  the  plant  itself,  is  this :  The  leaves 
of  the  sensitive-plant  close  long  before  sunset,  but  they  expand  again 
before  sunrise,  under  much  less  light  than  they  had  when  they  closed. 
Besides,  in  this,  as  in  many  other  plants,  the  leaves  take  the  nocturnal 
position  when  brushed  or  jarred." — Oray. 


2G0  OVEE  THE  EA.STEEN  COEDILLEEA. 

walls  mantled  with  vines.  A  portion  of  this  one,  how- 
ever, Avas  in  a  good  state  of  preservation ;  the  principal 
court-yard,  used  as  an  enclosure  for  trains  of  donkeys  and 
mules,  being  surrounded  by  a  pleasant  arcade,  which  had 
suffered  but  little  from  the  effects  of  time.  The  room  fur- 
nished us  afforded  no  conveniences  for  sleeping,  except 
several  huge  bread-trays,  and,  each  selecting  one  adapted 
to  his  lengtl),  we  spread  our  blankets  within,  and  found 
them  quite  comfortable.  The  night  passed  pleasantly, 
but  it  was  unfortunate  for  our  morning  nap  that  tlie  next 
was  baking-day ;  and  early  the  Indians  came  in  for  their 
kneading-troughs.  Not  wishing  to  retard  culinary  busi- 
ness, we  turned  out,  the  trays  were  lifted  through  the  low 
window,  into  the  back  court-yard,  and  the  process  of  bread- 
making  commenced.  Then  we  paid  a  visit  to  the  mill. 
It  was  a  primitive  affair,  attended  by  an  xigly  squaw,  who 
was  wading  barefooted  in  the  flour,  which  was  allowed  to 
fall  directly  upon  the  floor,  from  all  sides  of  the  uncovered 
stones. 

Part  of  our  baggage  having  come  up  during  the  night, 
and  being  assured  that  by  evening  all  would  reach  Tablon, 
a  small  Indian  village  upon  the  sien-a,  several  thousand 
feet  above  Itulcachi,  we  set  out  in  advance,  and  reached 
the  place  early  in  the  afternoon.  Beneath  us  lay  the 
valley  of  Quito,  and  beyond  stretched  along  the  wall  of 
the  Western  Cordillera,  broken  by  the  towers  and  pin- 
nacles of  Pichincha,  Atacatzo,  Corazon,  and  Iliniza.  Its 
deeply-serrated  ranges  seemed  to  have  been  torn  and 
tossed,  by  the  Titanic  power  of  a  tremendous  upheaving 
force,  into  a  thousand  rude  piles  of  rock  and  earth.  From 
Tablon  we  had  a  most  glorious  sunset.  We  never  wearied 
viewing  sunset  among  the  Andes.  The  great  elevation  of 
the  Quito  Valley  has  an  influence  upon  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  so  that  the  landscape,  under  a  waning  light,  is  un- 
rivalled even  by  that  beneath  the  classic  skies  of  Ital}^ 


REFLECTIONS.  261 

The  heavens  also  present  a  peculiar  character  of  "  mild 
effulgence  and  repose."  *  That  we  knew  was  our  last 
sunset  view  in  the  valley  of  Quito,  for  the  follovs'ing  day 
we  were  to  climb  to  the  crest  of  the  cordillera,  and 
commence  our  descent  to  the  Amazons.  Perhaps  it  was 
this  thought  that  led  us  to  sit  longer  than  usual  in 
the  chill  evening  air,  while  the  shadows  of  the  West- 
ern Cordillera  grew  longer  and  deeper  upon  the  plain 
below.  Slowly  the  light  faded  away  from  the  great  hills, 
till  the  snowy  peaks  stood  in  ghostly  paleness  about  us. 
As  w^e  watched  the  shades  of  night  stealing  over  that 
A'alley,  once  the  favorite  home  of  the  Incas,  was  it  strange 
that  our  reveries  carried  us  back  to  the  past,  and  we 
were  viewing  another  scene — watching  the  light  of  the 
empire  of  the  "  Children  of  the  Sun  "  dying  away  from 
those  same  hills,  and  the  chill  and  darkness  of  a  spiritual 
night  falling  upon  them  ?  With  what  feelings  of  unde- 
fined sadness  is  the  history  of  the  Incas  always  recalled, 
since  the  pen  of  Prescott  has  invested  their  strange  story 
with  so  romantic  an  interest !  The  ruins  of  their  works 
now  lie  scattered  upon  the  sierras  or  throughout  the  val- 

*  Humboldt,  in  speaking  of  the  aspect  of  the  heavens  viewed  from  the 
table-lands  of  Peru,  says  :  "  On  an  average  the  fixed  stars  appear  only  to 
scintillate  when  less  than  10°  or  12°  above  the  horizon.  At  great  eleva- 
tions they  shed  a  mild,  planetary  light."  This  observer  refers  the  phe- 
nomenon of  scintillation  to  "  luminous  interferences,"  caused  by  the 
rays  of  light  passing  through  strata  of  air  of  unequal  density.  In  the 
tropics  the  atmosphere  is  more  uniform  as  respects  distribution  of  heat 
and  humidity,  consequently  the  twinkling  of  the  stars  is  less  observable. 
If,  now,  in  that  uniform  atmosphere,  we  take  our  position  upon  the  lofty 
plateaux  of  the  Andes,  thus  placing  more  than  a  third  (by  weight)  of  the 
atmosphere  beneath  us,  we  can  readily  perceive  why  the  stars  should  pre- 
sent that  planetary  appearance.  The  same  authority,  whose  views  we 
are  presenting,  in  speaking  of  planets,  observes  :  "  The  absence  of  scin- 
tillation in  planets  with  larger  disks  is  to  be  ascribed  to  compensation 
and  to  the  neutralizing  mixture  of  colors  proceeding  from  different 
points  cf  the  disk."     See  "  Cosmos,"  vol.  iii.,  pp.  99,  101. 


262  OVEE  THE  EASTEKN  CORDILLERA. 

leys  of  the  Ancles.  Along  the  flank  of  the  Eastern  Cor- 
dillera may  be  seen  to-day  remnants  of  the  great  road 
which  once  connected  Lima,  Cuzco,  and  Quito,  the  three 
great  centres  of  the  Peruvian  kingdom.  Upon  the  table- 
lands, massive  ruins  of  the  temples  of  the  sun  mark  the 
devotion  of  the  people  to  their  religion.  As  we  might 
expect,  traditions  of  their  former  state  of  happiness  exist 
among  the  Peruvian  Indians,  who  still  look  for  the  resto- 
ration of  the  Inca  dynasty,  longing  for  its  mild,  paternal 
sway,  while  crushed  by  Spanish  oppression.  The  corrupt- 
ing influence  of  this  foreign  civilization  has  wrought  a 
great  change  upon  these  Indians.  A  certain  chief  being 
asked  why  he  shunned  civilization,  replied :  "  What  you 
call  civilization  is  simply  a  collection  of  vices ;  before  you 
came  among  my  people  they  were  pure  and  good ;  see 
what  your  civilization  has  made  them." 

It  is  interesting  to  observe  that  every  instance  of 
high,  indigenous  ciAdlization  among  tlie  primitive  nations 
of  the  New  World  was  looked  down  upon  by  the  loftiest 
peaks  of  the  highest  mountain-ranges.  Witness  the  civ- 
ilization of  the  Quitus  and  Carans,  guarded  by  the  noble 
mountains  which  stand  about  the  Quito  Valley ;  and,  again, 
that  of  the  Incas,  nourished  into  national  strength  and 
vigor  amid  the  peerless  peaks  of  the  highlands  of  Titi- 
caca,  and  later  spreading  itself  over  the  Quitonian  valley ; 
observe,  also,  the  civilization  of  the  Montezumas,  walled 
in  by  the  Cordilleras  of  Mexico.  Shall  we  consider  the 
influence  of  their  mountain-home  as  the  originating  and 
moulding  power  which  determined  those  characteristics 
that  so  widely  distinguished  the  Indians  of  the  plateaux 
of  the  Andes,  and  the  table-lands  of  Mexico,  from  all 
other  American  tribes  ?  So  Rnskin  would.  He  would 
tell  us  that,  as  we  find  the  dweller  of  the  plain  sharing  in 
his  nature  the  tameness  of  the  scenery  about  Lim,  so  we 
must  expect  the  mountaineer  to  partake  of  the  stern  en- 


STEEILITY.  263 

ergy  of  the  hills.  With  him,  "mountain  gloom  and 
glory,"  aside  from  climatic  considerations,  are  forma- 
tive forces  in  determining  national  character.  There  is 
certainly  enough  gloom  and  glory  there ;  and  while  we 
would  not  ignore  their  influence,  still  to  those  elevated 
table-lands,  carrying  a  temperate  climate  under  the  tropics, 
must  be  largely  referred  all  these  remarkable  instances  of 
aboriginal  development. 

From  Tablon  we  climbed  up  a  steep  paramo,  until,  at 
the  height  of  over  two  miles,  we  entered  a  dense  group 
of  polylepis,  which,  thinks  Dr.  Jameson,  flourishes  at  the 
greatest  elevation  of  any  tree  upon  the  globe  :  it  is  found 
upon  Chimborazo,  thirteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
Upon  these  lofty  slopes  also  grow  representatives  of  the 
genera  valerian  and  potentilla,  and  some  shrubby  com- 
positse.  "We  made  a  short  halt  for  refection,  in  an  open 
spot  of  the  forest,  at  an  altitude  twice  as  great  as  the 
summit  of  Mount  Washington.  Resuming  our  journey, 
we  soon  issued  from  this  polylepis  forest  upon  an  open 
paramo,  which  aftbrded  pasturage  to  large  herds  of  wild- 
cattle.*  As  we  mounted  higher,  vegetation,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  tufts  of  wiry  grass,  almost  entirely  dis- 

*  As  we  have  already  remarked,  the  wild  cattle  and  horses  found  in 
South  America  are  not  the  offspring  of  those  that  roamed  its  plains 
during  the  geologic  period  immediately  preceding  the  present.  As  is 
well  known,  fossil  remains  of  a  species  of  horse,  elephant,  and  mastodon, 
have  been  found  upon  both  continents.  The  last  two  are  found  in  the 
valley  of  Quito  upon  the  Andes.  Fossils  belonging  to  these  same  genera 
have  also  been  taken  from  the  deposits  of  northern  Siberia.  This  wide 
geographical  distribution  of  these  genera,  ranging  over  three  continents, 
has  led  to  the  supposition  that  Asia  and  North  and  South  America  were 
connected  at  no  remote  geologic  period.  Darwin  conjectures  that,  over 
land  now  submerged  near  Behring's  Strait  and  in  the  West  Indies,  these 
animals  found  their  way  from  the  northern  plains  of  Asia  into  North 
America,  and  then  into  the  southern  continent.  All  these  species  have 
become  extinct.  The  existing  cattle  and  horses  of  the  Americas  are  in- 
troduced European  species. 


264  OVER  THE  EASTEEN   COEDILLEEA. 

appeared.  The  only  sign  of  life  upon  these  elevated, 
barren  tracts  is  the  condor,  that  may  often  be  seen  sweep- 
ing in  majestic  circles  far  above  the  highest  peaks.  The 
home  of  this  bird  is  between  the  elevations  of  two  and 
three  miles ;  but  in  its  flights  it  frequently  rises  to  a 
height  of  over  four  miles,  and  yet  at  that  immense  alti- 
tude it  soars  as  easily  as  when  it  sweeps,  as  occasionally  it 
does,  through  tlie  dense  air  of  the  low  coast.  Humboldt 
estimates  that  he  saw  it  at  an  elevation  of  over  twenty- 
three  thousand  feet ;  the  greatest  elevation  attained  by 
any  living  thing,  with  the  exception  of  some  microscopic 
insects,  which  are  often  carried  much  higher  by  upward 
currents  of  air.  The  spread  of  wings  of  the  condor  is 
from  nine  to  thirteen  feet.  Notwithstanding  this  great 
expanse,  such  is  the  elevation  to  which  the  condor  rises, 
that  we  have  observed  it,  when  we  were  standing  at  a 
height  of  sixteen  thousand  feet,  to  appear  as  a  mere  speck, 
projected  against  the  sky  above  us.  When  in  the  air  its 
wings  are  motionless.  It  is  diflicult  to  conceive  how  a 
bird  of  so  great  a  size  can  support  itself,  seemingly  with- 
out any  effort.  "  In  the  case  of  any  bird  soaring,"  says 
Darwin,  "  its  motion  must  be  sufficiently  rapid,  so  that  the 
action  of  the  incline  surface  of  the  body  upon  the  atmos- 
phere may  counterbalance  its  gravity."  This  motion  he 
supposes  to  be  given  by  the  movement  of  the  neck  and 
body  of  the  bird.  The  same  authority  says  that  it  is 
frequently  captured  at  night  by  the  Chilenos  while  it  is 
perching  in  the  trees  upon  the  low  coast.  We  were  told 
of  a  different  method  more  generally  employed  by  the  In- 
dians. A  low  palisade  is  formed,  enclosing  a  circle  within 
which  is  placed  the  body  of  some  animal,  that  soon  at- 
tracts these  keen-sighted  vultures.  After  they  have  gorged 
themselves  they  are  imablc  to  rise,  on  account  of  the  con- 
tracted circle,  as  they  cannot  leave  the  ground  without 
takinii"  a  run  of  some  distance. 


VIEW  OF  THE  VALLEY   OF  THE  AMAZONS.  2G5 

After  climbing  upward  the  greater  portion  of  tlie  day, 
we  at  length  stood  upon  the  very  crest  of  the  Cordillera, 
at  an  elevation  of  almost  three  miles,  and  looked  down 
into  the  tropical  valley  of  the  Amazons.  Not  more  per- 
fect could  have  been  the  contrast  between  that  view  and 
our  last  of  the  valley  of  Quito.  The  Qu.itonian  plains  pre- 
sented a  scene  of  perfect  repose ;  with  the  clouds  lying  in 
heavy  banks  in  the  transversal  valleys,  or  resting  in  long- 
drifts  upon  the  flanks  of  the  Western  Cordillera.  Over 
the  summit  of  the  ridge,  in  the  Amazonian  Valley,  the 
trade-winds  were  dashing  heavy  clouds  against  that  gigan- 
tic mountain-wall,  or  sweeping  them  wildly  up  the  steep 
slopes  of  the  paramos.  It  was  only  through  the  rents,  torn 
in  the  clouds,  that  we  could  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  great 
forest,  which  seemed  to  roll  like  a  dark  sea  into  the  deep 
valleys  between  the  outlying  spurs  of  the  Andes. 

Starting  down  the  eastern  slope,  our  horses  leaped 
across  a  rivulet,  the  first  waters  of  the  Amazons,  now  a 
little  stream  half  lost  in  the  tall  grass  of  the  moorland, 
before  reaching  the  sea  a  majestic  river,  presenting  to  the 
voyager  a  blank  horizon  of  water  and  sky.  We  passed 
the  night  at  a  tambo  two  thousand  feet  below  the  summit 
of  the  Cordillera.  Snow  whitened  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains, as,  the  following  morning,  we  set  out  for  Papallacta, 
the  terminus  of  our  ride.  A  short  distance  from  our 
tambo  we  found  ourselves  upon  the  borders  of  a  little 
lake,  formed  by  a  stream  of  lava  from  Antisana  flowing 
across  the  bed  of  a  mountain-stream.  After  leaving  this 
lake,  our  trail  became  fearful,  even  for  the  Andes,  often 
dropping  down  by  means  of  steps  formed  of  the  trunks 
of  trees,  laid  transversely,  down  which  our  trained  horses 
carefully  descended  sidewise.  At  times  we  rode  along 
the  wall  of  the  ancient  lava-stream  which  poured  down 
the  slope.  Reaching  Papallacta,  we  were  greeted  by  the 
Indian  governor,  wlio  received  us  in  liis  own  hut,  spread 
13 


2CG        OYEE  THE  EASTERN  COEDILLEEA, 

our  dripping  blankets — for  we  had  been  riding  in  a  drencli- 
ing  rain — and,  as  vre  squatted  about  the  fire,  built  in  the 
centre  of  the  room,  provided  each  with  a  calabash  of  wel- 
come cordial. 

The  day  of  our  arrival  was  a  sad  one  for  the  little  vil 
lage  of  Papallacta ;  for  death  had  entered  the  tribe.  Ac- 
cording to  custom,  the  funeral  was  at  night.  The  entire 
village  having  assembled  within  the  rude  church,  they 
marched  slowly  to  the  grave,  where  the  women  chanted  a 
])laintivc  song.  The  mingled  group,  their  dusky  faces, 
seemingly  sad,  revealed  by  the  Aveird  light  of  the  torches, 
presented  an  interesting  scene ;  while  the  stillness,  and  the 
gloomy  shadows  of  the  dark,  amphitheatral  hills,  seemed 
in  fit  keeping  with  the  ceremonies. 

The  village  of  Papallacta  consists  of  about  thirty  huts, 
with  a  population  of  scarcely  one  hundred.  The  day  fol- 
lowing our  arrival  the  governor  collected  the  inhabitants, 
and  with  them  squatted  before  our  hut  to  negotiate  for 
the  trip  to  the  Napo.  It  was  arranged  that,  in  consid- 
eration of  one  hundred  pesos,  we  were  to  have  a  train  of 
twenty  Indians,  each  of  whom  was  to  carry  seventy-five 
pounds  ;  we  were  to  start  ^:>«5af?a  mancma,  day  after  to- 
morrow (nothing  is  done  in  this  country  until  to-morrow 
or  next  day),  and,  upon  the  ninth  day  from  Papallacta,  we 
and  our  baggage  were  to  be  safely  delivered  into  the  hands 
of  the  Indians  of  Archidona,  a  village  only  one  day's  jour- 
ney from  the  Pio  ISTapo. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

BEJTEATII    THE    FOREST. 

Leave  Papallacta. — "Wretclied  Trail. — Torrents  and  Land-slides. — Our 
Camp. — Baeza. — Fording  tlie  Ilondachi. — Separated  from  our  Train. — 
Archidona  and  Archidonians.  —  Photographing  Indians.  —  A  New 
Train. — Tropical  Forest. — Scarcity  of  Animals. — Sight  of  the  Eio 
Napo. 

Upon  the  moi-ning  appointed,  the  5th  of  IsToveniber, 
we  turned  our  backs  to  Papallacta,  and,  with  our  Indian 
train,  wliich,  by  the  addition  of  several  of  the  wives  oi 
our  aiatives,  had  increased  to  thirty,  we  entered  the  dense 
forest  that  for  two  weeks  was  to  shut  out  every  satisfac- 
tory view  of  the  sky  above.  The  trail  which  we  followed 
was  all  but  impassable  :  at  times  it  led  us  up  almost  per- 
pendicular acclivities,  then  dropped  to  the  bottom  of  some 
fearful  ravine  ;  sometimes  we  floundered  through  matted 
marshes,  or  forded,  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  the  tor- 
rents which  rushed  across  our  trail ;  frequently  the  rocky 
cliffs,  or  tangled  forest,  so  closely  hemmed  the  streams 
that  the  trail  would  be  forced  into  the  current,  and  waist- 
deep  in  water  we  would  follow  down  their  courses,  or 
tread  our  vv'ay  upon  the  detached  rocks  along  their  banks. 
In  order  to  form  any  conception  of  the  torrents  wb'.eh  rush 
down  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  we  have  here,  not  the  watei'-system  constituting 
the  drainage  of  a  short  liill-side,  but  that  of  the  *:iV.vIng 


208  BENEATH  THE  FOREST. 

roof  of  a  vast  mountain-range,  that  lifts  its  ridge  to  an 
average  elevation  of  almost  three  miles,  and  which  per- 
mits scarcely  a  shigle  drop  of  water  to  pass  its  summit. 
All  the  vapors  gathered  by  the  equatorial  trade-winds,  as 
they  sweep  from  the  Atlantic  over  the  teeming  valley  of 
the  Amazons,  are  thrown  down  upon  the  eastern  side  of 
this  great  refrigerator.  Of  the  severity  of  tropical  storms 
we  have  already  spoken.  After  a  short  continuance  every 
rivulet  is  converted  into  a  mountain-torrent,  and  the  great- 
est danger  attending  the  descent  of  the  Andes  is  the  lia- 
bility to  be  suddenly  cut  oif  from  retreat  or  advance  by 
swollen  rivers.  Although  the  general  descent  of  the  orien- 
tal slope  of  the  Andes  is  more  gradual  than  the  occidental, 
yet  the  flanks  of  the  ranges,  which  stand  as  gigantic  but- 
tresses along  the  main  longitudinal  cordillera,  seem  quite 
as  precipitous  ;  and  frequently,  upon  their  almost  vertical 
declivities,  could  be  seen  the  long  scar  of  the  land-slide, 
which  had  torn  its  way  down  from  a  great  height,  throw- 
ing a  vast  pile»of  debris — rocks  and  crushed  trees — across 
our  trail. 

At  an  early  hour  of  tlie  afternoon  of  our  first  day's 
march,  we  halted  for  the  night.  We  had  made  a  consid- 
erable descent,  indicated  by  the  vegetation,  which  was 
more  tropical  than  that  of  Papallacta,  many  palms  being 
interspersed  through  the  forest.  Our  Indians  quickly  con- 
structed for  us  a  rancho,  simply  a  roof  formed  of  palms, 
or  the  broad  leaves  of  a  parasitic  plant  that  grows  here  in 
abundance.  Our  natives  always  encamped  near  us,  and, 
building  a  large  fire  before  their  rude  shelter,  would  stretch 
themselves  side  by  side  in  a  semicircle,  with  their  little 
ponchos  drawn  up  over  their  heads,  and  their  naked  limbs 
extended  toward  the  fire.  Our  day's  march  had  been  a 
fatiguing  one,  although  we  had  made  scarcely  a  dozen 
miles,  which  was  our  average  day's  journey.  We  were 
drenched  by  rain,  and  soaked  from  fording  rivers  and 


VIEW  OF  ANTISANA.  269 

marshes,  but,  after  bathing,  and  donniug  dry  clothes,  we 
felt  in  humor  for  a  good  supper,  drawn  from  our  commis- 
sary stores,  after  which  we  rolled  ourselves  up  in  our 
blankets  and  dreamed  of  home. 

The  morning  of  the  6th  of  November  was  clear  and 
bright,  and  by  seven  we  were  making  an  easy  ascent, 
which  was  soon  alternated  by  a  precipitous  descent  and  a 
torrent,  and  then  followed  two  hours  of  almost  perpendic- 
ular climbing,  that  placed  us  upon  a  dizzy  ridge,  flanked 
by  immensely  deep  valleys,  threaded  by  the  wliite  lines 
of  torrents,  which,  in  their  hurrying  course,  were  dashing 
themselves  into  foam.  Westward  we  had  a  splendid  view 
of  Antisana.  "We  had  never  appreciated  its  height  before, 
for  we  had  always  viewed  it  from  the  elevated  table-lands. 
We  almost  shuddered  as,  having  lifted  our  eyes  to  its  lofty 
summit,  we  dropped  them  to  the  bottom  of  the  deep  ra- 
vines. We  passed  the  night  at  a  camping-place  called 
Pachamama,  and  the  following  day  reached  Baeza,  a 
hamlet  consisting  of  two  Indian  huts,  and,  as  our  natives 
desired  a  rest,  we  tarried  here  one  day.  From  the  family 
occupying  one  of  the  dwellings  our  Indians  purchased  a 
pig,  and  we  gratified  them  by  dispatching  it  with  our  rifle, 
when  they  singed  it,  then  all  day  long  held  high  carnival. 
We  opened  our  cans  and  concocted  some  flapjacks,  and 
baked  and  ate,  and  ate  and  baked,  till  we  fairly  astoiiished 
our  natives. 

Upon  the  9th,  continuing  our  march,  we  pushed  on  to 
the  Ilio  Cosanga,  a  broad,  rapid  stream,  upon  the  banks 
of  which  we  encamped  for  the  night,  and  were  lulled  to 
sleep  by  the  roar  of  the  torrent.  The  next  day's  mai'ch 
of  twelve  miles  up  the  left  bank  of  the  stream  was  made 
with  the  utmost  difficulty,  the  trail  being  poorly  cut,  and 
the  mud  often  to  our  knees.  Toward  night  we  reached  a 
rudely-constructed  Indian  bridge,  which  spanned  the  most 
formidable  portion  of  the  torrent.    By  this  shaky  structure 


270  BENEATH  THE  FOEEST. 

wc  crossed,  and  cncumpcd  upon  the  right  bank.  The  next 
morning  one  of  our  Indians  was  suflering  from  a  sprain, 
and  we  were  compelled  to  remain  in  camp  for  the  day.  A 
heavy  rain,  that  had  set  in  the  night  before,  continued 
throughout  the  day,  until  the  Cosanga  became  so  swollen 
as  to  sweep  away  the  bridge  by  which  we  had  crossed  the 
evening  previous.  Fortunate  was  it  for  us  that  we  had 
not  encamped  upon  the  opposite  bank.  The  following  day 
found  our  Indian  no  better,  and,  not  daring  to  delay 
longer,  we  left  him  in  a  little  ranch,  with  a  suj^ply  of  pro- 
visions, to  await  the  return  of  the  others  from  Archidona. 
For  the  greater  part  of  the  day  we  made  a  gentle  descent, 
the  trail  running  along  the  crest  of  Guacamayo  ridge, 
which  radiates  from  the  main  cordillera.  Descending 
from  this  range,  we  crossed  the  Cochachimbamba,  and 
passed  the  night  at  a  camping-place  which  rejoiced  in  the 
name  of  Guayusapugaru. 

Early  the  following  morning  we  reached  the  Hondachi, 
a  broad  stream,  rushing  down  an  inclined  bed,  broken  by 
liuge  bowlders.  In  attempting  to  cross,  it  was  with  the 
utmost  difficulty  that  our  Indians,  accustomed  as  they  were 
to  fording  torrents,  retained  their  footing.  We  scarcely 
realized  the  danger  of  the  attempt  until  one  poor  fellow 
was  swept  from  his  feet  and  borne  down  the  rapids  ;  for- 
tunately, he  caught  a  projecting  bowlder,  and  was  assisted 
ashore.  In  fording  streams,  instead  of  leaning  against  the 
current,  as  we  very  naturally  did,  before  initiated,  our  In- 
dians would  lean  with  it.  With  the  body  in  this  position, 
the  water  tends  to  press  the  feet  upon  the  bottom.  Lack- 
ing the  dexterity  of  our  Indians,  we  deemed  it  prudent, 
before  attempting  the  passage  of  the  maddened  Hondachi, 
to  have  stretched  across  the  torrent  a  rope,  with  which  we 
were  fortunately  provided.  This,  being  too  short  to  span 
the  river,  was  held  at  either  end  by  an  Indian,  who,  stand- 
ing: a  short  distance  in  the  stream,  braced  himself  with  a 


A,N,U!iii,    il'lHlll    1  'Mf 


SEPARATED   FEOM  OUR  TRAIN.  271 

couple  of  poles.  Thus  was  bridged  the  strongest  part  of 
the  current.  Our  precaution  was  not  unnecessary,  for, 
upon  reaching  the  middle  of  the  stream,  with  the  water 
nearly  to  our  neck,  our  feet  were  swept  from  the  bottom, 
and,  but  for  the  aid  of  the  rope,  we  would  doubtless  have 
gone  down  to  the  Amazons. 

With  fording  rivers,  and  floundering  through  swamps, 
that  day's  tramp  was  a  hard  one.  In  our  order  of  march 
a  small  party  of  three  or  four  generally  proceeded  several 
miles  in  advance  of  the  main  train,  in  order  to  select  a 
camping-place  for  the  night,  and  to  construct  a  ranch. 
We  generally  attended  the  main  company,  but  this  day 
we  took  a  middle  position.  It  was  growing  dark  when 
we  found  ourselves  sej^arated,  no  knowing  by  what  dis- 
tance from  our  baggage,  a  part  in  advance,  and  tlie  re- 
mainder behind.  Whether  to  attempt  to  overtake  the 
leading  i>arty,  or  turn  back  to  meet  the  other,  was  a  per- 
plexing question ;  but  the  thought  of  passing  twice  more 
over  the  trail  we  had  come  decided  our  wavering,  and  on 
we  pushed.  As  we  dragged  ourselves  wearily  along,  we 
thought  of  Bayard  Taylor,  who,  while  traversing  some  dis- 
torted portion  of  the  world,  tells  us  of  one  of  his  agoyats 
exclaiming :  "  I  was  never  in  this  country  of  Mama  be- 
fore. If  I  should  happen  to  be  fettered  and  brought  here 
by  force,  I  might  see  it  again ;  but  of  my  own  will,  never ! " 
If  ever  we  see  the  orient  of  Ecuador  again,  it  will  be 
from  reasons  as  cogent  as  those  required  to  secure  a  re- 
visit to  Maina  by  that  dragoman.  We  could  not  also 
help  commending  the  decision  of  two  associate  travellers 
of  Dr.  Jameson,  who,  having  accompanied  him  from  Quito 
to  the  Rio  Napo,  determined,  rather  than  go  back  across 
this  trail,  to  descend  the  Napo  and  Amazons,  a  distance 
of  three  thousand  miles,  and  sail  for  the  States  from  Para, 
instead  of  Guayaquil,  as  they  had  intended. 

At  length  we  wei*e  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  a  rancho, 


272  BENEATH  THE  FOEEST. 

with  a  fire  in  front,  surrounded  by  four  of  our  Indians. 
One  was  a  mere  boy,  who  had  carried  a  pack  of  eighty 
pounds  !  How  the  little  fellow  had  brought  it  along  the 
trail,  which  led  across  rivers,  up  precipices,  through  jun- 
gles and  dense  forests,  which  hemmed  the  path  so  closely 
that  we,  unembarrassed  by  any  load,  found  it  almost  im- 
possible to  force  our  way,  was  ever  a  mystery  to  us.  The 
same  pack  was,  during  one  long  day's  march,  carried  by 
a  woman.  Our  provisions,  blankets,  and  dry  garments, 
were  with  the  other  party.  This  was  pleasant !  But  there 
was  no  alternative,  and  we  threw  ourselves  in  our  wet 
clothes  upon  the  ground,  crowded  together,  and — waited 
for  the  morning.  It  did  come  at  last,  and  cold,  stiff,  sleepy, 
and  hungry,  not  knowing  whom  to  blame  for  our  discom- 
fort, we  sat  crouching  over  a  little  fire  which  w^e  had  suc- 
ceeded in  building,  waiting  for  our  Indians  to  come  up. 
They  arrived  a  little  after  sunrise,  and  we  had  soon  pre- 
pared the  best  breakfast  oui'  stock  of  provisions  would 
afford.  Leaving  this  camping-place,  often  to  be  recalled 
during  the  remainder  of  our  tour,  we  recommenced  our 
march  for  Archidona,  where  we  arrived  early  in  the  day. 
Here  we  received  a  cordial  welcome  from  the  bishop  and 
padre,  Jesuit  missionaries  laboring  among  the  Indians. 

Archidona  lies  just  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes,  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Misagualli,  and  contains  an  Indian  popula- 
tion of  about  five  hundred.  Buried  in  the  midst  of  the 
great  forest,  it  is  almost  completely  isolated  from  the  rest 
of  the  world,  and  can  be  reached  only  by  Indian  trails. 
The  huts  are  low,  the  thickly-thatched  roofs  reaching  near- 
ly to  the  ground.  The  Archidonian  Indians  in  physical 
development  are  superior  to  any  with  whom  we  came  in 
contact  in  South  America.  The  men  are  taller  than 
those  of  the  table-lands  of  the  Andes,  are  slightly  and 
even  delicately  built ;  their  long,  dark,  sometimes  curling 
hair,  falling  over  then-  shoulders,  giving  them  a  peculiarly 


AECHIDONIxVNS.  273 

'  feminine  appearance.  The  women  in  both  form  and  fea- 
ture are,  as  Dr.  Jameson  observes,  inferior  to  the  men. 
Darwin  remarks  the  same  in  spealdng  of  the  personal 
appearance  of  the  Tahitian  women.  The  only  clothing 
of  the  men  consists  of  a  narrow  cloth  about  their  waist, 
and  a  light  poncho,  both  of  a  coarse  cotton  manufacture, 
obtained  from  Quito.  This  dress  is  especially  becoming 
to  the  little  boys,  who,  with  delicately-formed  limbs, 
painted  a  deep  red  with  annotto  {Bixa  orellana)^  and 
with  every  movement  natural  and  unrestrained,  are  really 
interesting ;  and,  often,  the  charming  simplicity  of  these 
children  of  the  forest  is  graceful  and  winning.  A  life  freer 
from  care  than  that  led  by  these  Indians  can  hardly 
be  conceived.  To  supply  their  wants  they  have  only  to 
gather  the  fruit  of  the  palm  and  the  plantain,  or  secure 
with  their  j)oisoned  arrows  game  from  the  surrounding 
forest.  Far  removed  from  moroseness,  their  disposition 
is  cheerful  and  active.  Their  minds,  however,  are  unable 
to  grasp  abstract  ideas,  and  seem  scarcely  susceptible  of 
cultivation — a  fact  well  attested  by  the  padres,  who  have 
labored  among  them  for  two  hundred  years,  yet  with  no 
perceptible  results  beyond  keeping  them  docile.  We  could 
not  but  think  that  should  these  assiduous  and  self-denying 
teachers  adopt  the  method  pursued  by  our  own  mission- 
aries in  fields  quite  as  unpromising,  and  teach  these  In- 
dians the  virtue  of  industry,  to  cultivate  the  rich  soil, 
manufacture  fabrics  from  the  productions  of  their  virgin 
forest,  and  encourage  them  to  secure  for  themselves  the 
comforts  of  civilized  life,  their  success  in  developing  and 
training  their  spiritual  nature  might  be  commensurate 
with  their  untiring  and  praiseworthy  zeal. 

While  at  Archidona  we  were  quite  successful  in  in- 
creasing our  collections.  We  were  assisted  in  our  work 
by  the  Indian  boys,  who,  as  soon  as  they  got  an  idea  of 
what  we  wanted,  brought  us  large    numbers  of  insects, 


274  BENEATH  THE  FOEEST. 

with  occasional  specimens  of  fishes  from  the  Misagualli. 
Being  desirous  of  obtaining  all  the  representatives  pos- 
sible of  the  latter,  we  would  reward  them  with  a  medio 
(a  Spanish  coin  worth  five  cents)  for  each  specimen.  On 
one  occasion  two  little  fellows  came  to  us,  one  with  the  head 
and  the  other  with  the  tail  of  a  fish  which  they  had  neatly- 
halved.  The  head  being  presented  first,  the  manager  of 
the  department  of  ichthyology  was  rejoicing  over  a  ncAV 
species,  for  never  before  had  he  seen  an  ichthyological 
specimen  end  so  abruptly ;  but,  with  the  tail  being  handed 
in,  by  the  other  youngster,  the  relations  of  the  two  be- 
came apparent. 

While  here,  we  determined  upon  taking  a  photograph- 
ic view  of  Archidonians.  This  was  attended  with  some 
difficulty.  These  natives  were  not  all  as  willing  to  be 
"  taken "  as  the  groups  about  the  Congress  of  Saratoga. 
The  whole  population,  men,  women,  and  children — ^the 
women  each  with  two  babies,  one  slung  before  and  the 
other  behind — were  assembled  and  drawn  up  in  a  semi- 
circle upon  the  plaza  in  front  of  the  little  church.  The 
men  enjoyed  it ;  but  to  the  women  the  camera  was  clothed 
with  terrors,  they  thinking  it  an  escopcta  (gim)  ;  and,  as 
soon  as  the  operator  took  position  behind  the  instrument, 
they  broke  in  a  run  for  their  huts.  The  good  padres  suc- 
ceeded, after  much  persuasion,  in  again  forming  them  in 
line — but  again  they  broke.  At  length  they  were  induced 
to  stand  within  range  sufficiently  long  for  a  hazy  view.  ■- 

November  17th,  w^ith  a  train  of  Archidonian  Indians, 
our  others  having  returned  to  Papallacta,  we  again  re- 
sumed our  journey  to  the  Napo.  A  few  miles  from  Archi- 
dona  we  forded  the  Misagualli,  and  about  noon  the  broad 
and  rapid  Tena,  upon  whose  banks  was  a  little  Indian  vil- 
lage, bearing  the  name  of  the  river.  We  were  now  at  the 
foot  of  the  Andes,  and  the  vegetation  assumed  a  more 
tropical  character  than  that  of  the  higher  slopes.     Stately 


TEOPICAL  FOEEST.  275 

palms  lifted  their  heavy  crowns  throughout  the  struggling 
mass ;  arborescent  ferns,*  which  spring,  with  a  palm-like 
growth,  to  a  height  of  forty  feet,  although  native  to  the 
temperate  heights  of  the  Cordilleras,  were  still  occasionally 
seen ;  the  equisetum,  a  cryptogamous  plant,  congener  of 
our  northern  scouring  rush,  attained  a  height  of  twenty 
feet ;  while  arborescent  grasses,  shooting  up  forty  feet 
above  us,  impressed  us  with  the  capabilities  of  a  tropical 
nature.  These  familiar  illustrations  will  enable  one  to 
form  some  conception  of  the  luxuriance  of  the  vegetation 
here,  and  the  gigantic  size  attained  by  specific  forms. 
But  these  do  not  constitute  the  frame-work  of  the  forest. 
This  is  formed  by  the  trunks  of  exogenous  trees  similar  in 
appearance  to  northern  arboreal  forms.  The  diameter  of 
these  is  not  so  striking  as  their  great  height.  This  fram- 
ing is  filled  in  with  every  form  of  vegetation ;  parasites 
and  epiphytes,  the  aerial  roots  of  the  latter  often  reaching 
down  from  the  highest  trees  to  the  ground,  load  the 
branches ;  while  gray,  sombre,  arboreous  mosses  lend  a 
peculiarly  melancholy  aspect  to  the  old  forest-monarchs  ; 
vines  encircle  the  trunks,  and,  looping,  twisting,  and  inter- 
twining, form  a  perfect  maze  of  cordage.  Humble  i)lants 
of  strange  types  form  the  lower  stratum  of  the  forest, 
constituting  an  almost  solid  mass  of  vegetation,  through 
which  it  is  often  impossible  to  penetrate.  As  the  sun 
scarcely  enters  the  depths  of  these  primeval  forests,  every 
thing  is  saturated  with  moisture,  which  humidity  afibrds 
one  of  the  chief  requisites  for  that  giant  vegetation  which 
we  find  upon  the  flanks  of  the  Andes  and  throughout  the 
valley  of  the  Amazons.     We  found  the  forest  at  least 

*  We  obtained  sections  of  this  gigantic  plant  eight  inches  in  diam- 
eter. Darwin  measured  some  in  Van  Diemen's  Land  six  feet  in  circum- 
ference. The  species  are  numerous,  and,  as  Kumboldt  observes,  are 
confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  tropics,  but  there  preferring  temperate 
altitudes. 


27G  '     BENEATH  THE  FOEEST. 

grander  in  proportions  upon  the  slopes  of  the  equatorial 
Andes  than  in  the  heart  of  the  valley.  The  same  is  ob- 
served in  crossing  the  continent  from  the  mountains  upon 
the  north.  The  forests  of  the  Rio  Negro  seem  dwarfed  in 
comparison  with  those  of  the  Venezuelian  Cordilleras. 

One  of  the  most  striking  peculiarities  of  these  forests, 
and  one  which  every  botanist  quickly  observes,  is  the  ab- 
sence of  floAvers.  We  journeyed  sometimes  for  days  with- 
out meeting  with  any  conspicuous  inflorescence.  The  few 
flowers  we  found  were  small  and  of  a  dull  color.  The  sun- 
light is  too  much  excluded  to  allow  Flora  to  paint  her 
forms  with  those  rich,  brilliant  hues  with  which  she  decks 
the  flowers  of  the  unshaded  table-lands,  and  even  the 
shrinking  rosettes  of  the  mountain  paramos.  The  inflo- 
rescence is  above  and  along  the  walls  of  the  rivers.  Ani- 
mated life,  also,  as  we  have  intimated,  is  extremely  scarce. 
During  our  entire  journey  fi'om  Quito  to  the  Napo,  a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  two  hundred  miles,  upon  which  trip  we 
had  anticipated  adding  largely  to  our  zoological  collec- 
tions, we  saw  but  few  birds ;  only  one  company  of  mon- 
keys, and  these  were  going  through  the  tops  of  the  forest 
as  if  to  fulfil  an  appointment ;  one  serpent,  that  was  so 
imfortunate  as  to  get  into  our  alcohol-can  ;  and  a  jaguar, 
which  one  evening  ran  through  our  camp — startling  our 
natives. 

Our  Archidonian  Indians  led  us  rapidly  over  the  trail, 
that  ou.r  journey  might  be  completed  before  night.  Just 
at  evening  the  forest  suddenly  opened  before  us,  and  we 
stood  upon  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Napo.  The  tiirbid 
stream  appeared  almost  stagnant,  comj^ared  with  the  fu- 
rious torrents  of  the  Cordilleras,  and,  in  its  slower  march 
seemed  as  if  wearied  with  its  leaping,  hurrying  course 
down  the  Andes.  We  greeted  it  with  delight,  for  it  told 
us  of  the  end  of  weary  marches  over  wretched  trails,  and 
we  now  imagined  ourselves  floating  dreamingly  down  to 


SAD  THOUGHTS.  277 

the  Amazons.  Strange  were  our  feelings  as  we  stood 
upon  the  banks  of  that  lonely  river.  We  realized  then  a 
full  sense  of  our  isolation,  and  felt,  as  we  never  had  be- 
fore, the  loneliness  of  the  great  wilderness.  We  scarcely 
know  why,  but  we  always  felt  more  lonely  when  upon  the 
rivers  than  when  far  removed  from  them  in  the  forest ; 
perhaps,  because  we  had  learned,  in  our  northern  land,  to 
associate  with  rivers  the  picture  of  cities  and  the  life  of 
commerce ;  and  then,  when  Ave  saw  the  desolateness  of 
these  forest-walled  rivers,  we  felt  the  strangeness  of  the 
contrast. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

CAXOE-VOYAGE    DOWN    TIIE_  KIO    NAPO. 

Napo  Valley. — An  Island-home. — Bees. — Indian  Tribes. — Their  Lan- 
guage.— Down  the  Eiver. — Shooting  Kapids. — Santa  Eosa. — xVu  Indif- 
ferent Crew. — Coco  Village. — Our  "  Zaparo." — Last  View  of  the 
Andes. — Birds  upon  the  Napo.  —  Toucans. — Hummers.  —  Turtles' 
Eggs. — Sancudos. — Camp  vipon  a  Playa. — Our  Indians. — Tropical 
Vegetation. — View  of  the  Maranon. 

Near  the  point  where  wc  emerged  from  the  forest  is 
located  the  Indian  village  of  Napo,  compi'ising  about 
thirty  straggling  Inxts,  It  stands  at  the  head  of  canoe- 
navigation  upon  the  Rio  Napo,  six  hundred  miles  from  its 
confluence  with  the  Maranon,  as  the  upper  portion  of  the 
Amazons  is  called.  In  front  of  the  town  the  current  of 
the  river,  as  we  have  remarked,  is  smooth,  but  a  short  dis- 
tance above  and  below  it  breaks,  in  formidable  rapids, 
over  sandstone  ledges. 

A  short  hour's  walk  from  the  village,  upon  a  little 
island  formed  by  the  Yusupino,  a  small  affluent  of  the 
Napo,  we  found  an  American,  Mr.  George  Edwards,  who 
had  lived  here,  almost  isolated  from  the  world,  for  four- 
teen years.  We  shall  long  remember  our  visit  to  his 
little  island-home,  and  the  hearty  welcome  received.  It 
was,  indeed,  a  miniature  paradise,  such  as  we  scarcely  ex- 
pected to  find  in  the  depths  of  these  wild  forests.  It 
could  be  reached  only  by  fording  an  arm  of  the  river. 


BEES.  2V0 

His  dwelling  was  similar  to  the  liuts  of  the  Indians,  but 
more  commodious,  while  the  grounds  surrounding  were 
filled  with  tropical  fruits — ^bananas,  pineapples,  plantains, 
and  lemons.  We  were  especially  interested  in  the  vanilla- 
l^lant,  which  he  was  successfully  cultivating.  Since  our 
return  to  the  States,  he,  acting  upon  our  suggestion,  has 
been  attempting  to  domesticate  some  wild  bees,  obtained 
from  the  forest.  In  a  letter  recently  received,  detailing 
his  experience,  he  says :  "  Shortly  after  you  left,  I  obtained 
two  swarms,  which  I  have  preserved  in  the  manner  you 
directed.  They  have  been  busy  since  secured ;  but  they 
show  no  indications  of  swarming.  One  of  the  swarms  is 
of  a  black  color,  andi  are  called  by  the  Indians  cushillo 
mishJce,  or  monkey-honey,  because,  I  suppose,  of  their  re- 
semblance in  color  to  that  animal.  The  others,  which  are 
yellow,  they  call  rara  mishke,  or  corn-honey.  It  is  curious 
that  the  Indians  have  no  word  for  bees,  only  for  their  color 
and  for  honey.  The  black  species  is  said  to  make  the  most 
honey,  and  the  yellow  the  best."  We  believe  this  is  the 
first  attempt  to  domesticate  native  bees  in  the  valley  of 
the  Amazons.  We  are  confident  that  their  culture  in 
those  forests  will  be  attended  with  satisfactory  results. 

Bees  are  indigenous  to  South  America ;  hence  the  rea- 
son of  our  finding  them  so  far  removed  from  civilization. 
In  the  northern  continent  they  were  introduced  by  the 
colonists,  and  have  j)receded  civilization  by  only  a  few 
miles  as  it  has  advanced  westward.  European  species 
were  introduced  into  the  temperate  portions  of  Southern 
Brazil  in  1845,  and  have  there  been  quite  successfully  cul- 
tivated. There  are  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  species 
of  native  bees  in  South  America.  The  largest  number  are 
destitute  of  stings,  or  have  them  but  imperfectly  developed 
— one  thing  in  their  favor,  certainly.  Some  of  these  spe- 
cies inhabit  hollow  trunks,  others  construct  their  homes 
under-ground,  while  upon  the  Llanos  of  Venezuela  is  a 


280  CANOE-VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  EIO  NAPO. 

kind  that  construct  a  nest  similar  to  a  wasps'.  A  few 
species  collect  sour  honey.  Large  quantities  of  wax  are 
gathered  in  the  different  provinces  of  Brazil,  by  the  na- 
tives, who  arc  experts  in  finding  a  "  bee-tree."  In  Agassiz's 
"  A  Joui-ney  in  Brazil "  we  observe  the  following,  relative 
to  the  mathematics  of  the  bee,  displayed  in  the  construc- 
tion of  its  cells :  "  The  bees  stand  as  close  as  they  can  to- 
gether in  their  hive,  for  economy  of  space,  and  each  one 
deposits  his  wax  around  him,  his  own  form  and  size  being 
the  mould  for  the  cells,  the  regularity  of  which,  when  com- 
pleted, excites  so  much  wonder  and  admiration.  The 
mathematical  secret  of  the  bee  is  to  be  found  in  his  struct- 
ure, not  in  his  instinct."  This  statement  is  incorrect,  and 
the  inference  wrong.  In  South  America  are  species  of 
bees  that,  while  possessing  forms  quite  as  perfect  as  Euro- 
pean varieties,  still  display  less  accuracy  and  economy  in 
the  construction  of  their  cells.  We  are  at  a  loss  to  con- 
ceive how,  if  the  shape  of  the  cell  of  our  own  hive-bee  be 
dependent  upon  the  structure  of  the  insect,  that  should 
give  it  its  peculiar  hexagonal  form.  A  few  moments'  ob- 
servation before  an  open  hive  shows  us  the  true  modus  ope- 
randi. The  bee,  instead  of  depositing  the  wax  about  its 
body,  takes  a  position  upon  the  comb,  while  the  scale  of 
wax,  secreted  from  its  body,  is  placed  upon  the  edge  of 
the  cell,  and  carefully  moulded  into  shape.  The  mysteries 
and  mathematics  of  the  hive  must  be  sought  in  the  uistinct 
of  the  bee,  and  not  in  its  structure. 

The  Napo  Indians,  at  the  time  of  our  arrival,  were 
celebrating  one  of  their  festivals — a  curious  amalgamation 
of  their  own  customs  with  innovations  introduced  by  the 
padres,  during  their  semi-occasional  visits  among  them. 
While  delayed  here  several  days,  in  making  preparations 
for  our  trip  to  the  Amazons,  we  were  entertained  by  j> 
constant  drumming,  the  essential  accompaniment  of  an 
Indian  pow-wow.     To  drum  and  drink  chicha  are  the  cen- 


INDIAN  TEIBES.  281 

tral  ideas  of  these  fiestas,  wliicli  arc  maintained  by  the 
Indians  for  weeks  together,  until  the  faihire  of  provisions 
compels  them  to  set  out  upon  long  hunting-excursions. 
Their  villages  are  then  deserted,  and  we  find/  them  scat- 
tered in  little  tambos  along  the  banks  of  the  lagoons  and 
minor  water-courses,  obtaining  a  precarious  subsistence 
from  the  streams  and  forests. 

There  are  two  principal  tribes  dwelling  upon  the  Rio 
Napo :  the  Zaparos,  upon  the  southern  bank  of  the  river, 
and  the  Napos,  upon  the  northern.  The  latter  have  been 
partially  civilized  by  the  padres,  and,  in  almost  all  their 
little  villages,  the  rude  church,  occupying  the  most  promi- 
nent site,  indicates  their  presence.  The  nomadic  Zaparos, 
from  the  fact  that  they  do  not  congregate  in  towns,  have 
not  been  brought  under  the  influence  of  civilization.  They 
are  the  most  abject  and  miserable  Indians  that  we  en- 
countered in  the  interior.  The  Quichua  is  the  language 
of  the  Napos.  Singularly  enough,  in  Quichua  the  word 
for  mother  is  the  same  as  in  English.  It  seems  strangely 
odd  to  hear  these  children  of  the  forest  calling  "  mamma  !  " 
The  tongue  of  the  Zaparos  is,  doixbtless,  judging  from 
certain  affinities,  a  dialect  of  the  same.  In  common  with 
many  other  American  tribes,  their  system  of  numeration 
contains  traces  of  decimal  arrangement.  However  the 
tribes  beyond  the  Quichuas  may  have  come  in  possession 
of  their  somewhat  imperfect  system — whether  by  contact 
with  higher  civilization,  or  by  originating  it  among  them- 
selves— the  rigid  notation  of  these  Indians  bears  the  im- 
press of  Peruvian  culture,  and  illustrates  how  language  is 
moulded  and  retains  the  impressions  of  the  genius  of  a 
people  long  after  all  other  traces  of  it  are  lost.  The  mon- 
uments of  the  civilization  of  the  Incas,  which  rose  upon 
the  table-lands  of  the  Andes,  now  lie  scattered  over  those 
plains,  in  unintelligible  ruins ;  while  here,  in  their  lan- 
guage, we  find  a  monument  that  Avill  endure  ages  beyond 


282  CANOE-YOYAGE  DOWN  THE  EIO  NArO. 

the  time  when  the  last  representative  of  the  Peruvian 
people  shall  have  ceased  to  speak  the  tongue  of  his  an- 
cestors.* 

*  The  Hindoo  origin  of  the  Incas  has  been  inferred  from  the  similar- 
ity in  grammatical  construction  of  the  languages  of  both ;  between  two 
and  three  hundred  of  these  coincidences  have  been  pointed  out.  The 
Quichua  abounds  in  compound  words  ;  the  conjugations  and  declensions 
are  formed  by  particles,  and  by  the  use  of  different  words.  From  the 
admirable  v.'ork,  "  Cuzco  and  Lima,"  by  C.  R.  Markham,  we  take  the  fol- 
lowing specimen  of  lucarial  verse,  to  illustrate  the  advance  made  in  the 
department  of  poetry  by  the  early  Incas.  It  was  taken  down  from  the 
lips  of  the  Indians,  soon  after  the  Spanish  conquest. 

A  chieftain  had  fallen  in  love  with  the  daughter  of  an  Inca,  but  had 
been  refused  her  hand  by  her  father,  and  the  daughter  herself  (Cusi  Coy- 
llur)  had  been  severely  reproved,  when  she  is  represented  as  indulging  in 
this  lament :  _ 

"  Ay  Nustallay !  Ay  Mamallay ! 

How  can  I  fad  to  mourn  ? 

How  can  I  fail  to  weep  ? 

My  father  so  dear  to  me, 

My  guardian  so  beloved. 

In  all  these  days  and  nights, 

In  this  my  tender  age. 

Has  quite  forgotten  me. 

Without  asking  for  mo. 

Ay  Mamallay  !  Ay  Nustallay  I 

Ah,  my  adored  lover  ! 

In  the  morning  that  I  came  here, 

The  day  became  dark. 

The  sun  seemed  obscure  in  the  heavens, 

As  if  it  were  shrouded  in  ashes. 

The  clouds  of  burning  fire 

Announced  my  grief. 

The  resplendent  star  Chasca  ^ 

Sped  out  its  rays. 

All  the  elements  were  weary, 

And  the  universe  was  tired. 

Ay  Mamallay  !  Ay  Nustallay  ! 

Ah,  my  adored  lover  ! 

'  Yenus. 


DOWN  THE  rjVEK.  283 

We  experienced  considerable  difficulty  in  persuading 
the  Indians  to  break  off  their  feast  for  a  trip  to  the  Mara- 
fion ;  but  at  length  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  sufficient  num- 
ber to  man  three  canoes,  which  were  to  take  us  as  far  as 
Santa  Rosa,  a  little  village  eighty  miles  below  Napo,  where 
we  might  obtain  canoes  and  Indians  to  convey  vis  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river. 

Upon  the  morning  of  the  20th  of  December  we  em- 
barked, and  were  borne  swiftly  down  by  the  strong  cur- 
rent, which  sometimes  became  dangerous  rapids,  over 
Avhich  our  little  canoes  would  shoot  with  fearful  velocity, 
our  Indian  paddlers  dexterously  avoiding  projecting  rocks 
and  breakers.  The  recollection  of  the  fact  that  a  party 
in  descending  these  same  rapids,  a  few  years  previous,  had 
been  wrecked,  and  lost  every  thing,  Avas  far  from  a  com- 
forting thought,  as  our  canoes  went  plunging  down  be- 
tween the  rocks,  or,  as  caught  in  a  little  eddy,  they  would 
tremble  for  a  moment  as  poising  for  another  leap,  and  rush 
through  the  foaming  sluices.  The  appearance  of  our 
naked  Indians,  their  long  hair  streaming  in  the  wind,  and 
then-  wild  shouts  mingling  with  the  roar  of  the  waters, 
with  the  rolling  of  our  little  bark,  rendered  the  shooting 
of  these  rapids  unique  as  well  as  exciting  navigation. 
Passing  safely  all  these  rapids,  toward  evening  we  reached 
the  old  site  of  Santa  Rosa,  which  had  been  abandoned  on 
account  of  its  unhealthfulness,  the  Indians  believing  that 
it  had  been  cursed  by  the  padres.  Drawing  our  boats 
ashore,  we  landed.  It  was  sad  to  see  the  little  huts  of 
the  deserted  village,  almost  lost  in  the  rank  vegetation 
that  had  sprung  up  around  them,  with  no  traces  of  their 
former  occupants ;  none  to  gather  the  falling  fruit  of  the 
scattered  orange-trees,  but  all  silent  and  desolate.  As  the 
gloom  of  the  approaching  night  settled  over  the  deserted 
spot,  our  Indians  motioned  us  to  the  canoes,  unlashed 
and  quickly  pushed  them  from  the  bank  into  the  strong 


284  CANOE-VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  EIO  NAPO. 

current,  and  in  the  deepening  twilight  Y.'e  swept  on  down 
Ijctween  the  dark  forest  walls. 

About  fifteen  miles  below  the  old  tovrn,  we  found  the 
new  Santa  Kosa,  containing  one  hundred  and  fifty  In- 
dians, The  rapidity  with  which  we  had  descended  the 
river  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  in  seven  hours 
we  had  come  a  distance  of  eighty  miles,  making  a  fall  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  Indians  here  were  also 
engaged  with  their  feast,  and  we  again  experienced  much 
difficulty  in  obtaining  any  to  accompany  us  to  the  Mara- 
non,  but  at  length  secured  two  canoes  and  four  Indians, 
paying  them  in  llenzo — cloth  of  a  coarse  cotton  manu- 
facture, which  we  had  brought  from  Quito.  We  delayed 
at  Santa  Rosa  several  days,  in  order  to  allow  our  Indians 
time  to  prepare  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  yuca-root  to 
last  them  during  the  long  voyage.  The  yuca-shrub  yields 
a  large  cluster  of  tuberous  roots.  These,  when  used  for 
the  manufacture  of  chicha,  ai-e  bruised  or  ground  into  a 
pulpy  mass,  and  then  allowed  to  ferment.  A  large  hand- 
ful mixed  in  a  calabash  of  water  makes  a  thick,  nutritious, 
and  not  unpleasant  drink.  It  was  upon  this  that  our  In- 
dians chiefly  subsisted  while  passing  down  the  river,  se- 
creting large  quantities  from  time  to  time  upon  the  islands, 
to  be  used  upon  their  return  trip. 

The  night  preceding  our  departure  from  Santa  Rosa 
our  Indians  spent  in  drinking  chicha,  so  that  the  following 
niornmg,  when  ready  to  start,  they  were,  as  the  Spanish 
alcalde  expressed  it,  decidedly  "  irrational."  Bidding  adios 
to  their  friends,  they  shoved  our  canoe  into  the  stream, 
and,  with  the  coolest  indifierence,  stretched  themselves  in 
the  bottom,  with  the  exception  of  the  governor,  who,  as 
pilot,  settled  himself  in  the  stern,  and  commenced  blasting 
away  upon  an  old  cow's-horn.  But  such  an  arrangement, 
although  doubtless  highly  conducive  to  comfort,  was  de- 
cidedly incompatible  with  our  idea  of  safety,  as  the  canoe 


COCA  VILLAGE.  285 

was  drifting  among  snags  and  down  rapids,  with  tut 
little  consideration  for  tlie  right  of  the  bow  to  go  fore- 
most. Finding  all  expostulation  useless,  they  being  su- 
premely ignorant  of  the  English  and  Spanish  languages, 
and  we  as  indifferently  posted  in  regard  to  their  Jcita-ioa- 
wa,  as  a  last  resort  we  tried  a  vigorous  application  of  one 
of  the  shovel-shaped  paddles,  which  had  a  most  exhila- 
rating effect  upon  the  happy  sleepers,  and  suddenly  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  the  musical  governor  to  piloting 
duties.  After  this  drunkj  our  Indians  were  always  obedi- 
ent and  faithful,  generally  working  at  the  paddles  with  a 
ready  good-will. 

Early  in  the  first  afternoon  from  Santa  Rosa  Vv^e  reached 
Suno,  a  collection  of  four  or  five  tambos.  The  night  was 
excessively  sultrj^,  for  the  river,  hemmed  in  by  the  high 
forest,  does  not  receive  the  influence  of  the  easterly  trade- 
winds  which  j^revail  upon  the  Amazons  and  Lower  NajDO  ; 
and  the  burning  rays  of  the  vertical  sun,  pouring  in  during 
the  entire  day,  render  the  air  so  oppressively  hot  that 
one  feels  as  though  in  an  oven.  We  disposed  of  our- 
selves for  the  night,  by  two  of  our  number  sleeping  in  the 
canoes  to  guard  our  trappings,  while  the  others  swung 
their  hammocks  between  the  trees  upon  the  bank.  The 
following  day  we  passed  Coca  River,  one  of  the  largest 
tributai'ies  to  the  Rio  Napo,  and  stopped  at  the  small  In- 
dian village  of  Coca,  a  short  distance  below  their  conflu- 
ence. In  coming  from  Napo  village  we  had  been  obliged 
to  sit  cramped  up  in  the  bottom  of  our  canoe,  under  a  low 
cover  of  palm-leaves ;  but,  all  the  rapids  being  now  passed, 
we  determined  upon  a  more  pretentious  and  comfortable 
mode  of  navigation.  Firmly  lashing  our  canoes  about 
eight  feet  apart,  we  covered  the  intervening  space  with 
a  bamboo  floor,  and,  constructing  a  roof  over  the  whole, 
we  had  a  craft  such  as  had  never  floated  upon  those 
waters  before,  and  which  vre  christened  "  Zaparo,"  in  honor 


28G  CANOE-VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  lilO  NAPO. 

of  tlio  wild  Indians  ujion  the  right  "bank  of  the  river. 
Having  completed  all  much  to  our  satisfaction,  we  placed 
our  baggage  on  board,  and  early  in  the  morning  of  the 
2Sth  of  November — Thanksgiving — we  cut  loose  our  craft, 
and  once  more  started  for  the  Maranon. 

After  the  confluence  of  the  Coca  and  Napo,  the  latter 
spreads  out  beautifully ;  and,  as  there  are  no  mountains  to 
wall  it  in  and  confine  it  to  a  single  channel,  it  has  cut 
numberless  paths  through  the  forest,  embracing  with  its 
broad  arms  many  beautiful  islands,  rendering  a  view  up 
or  down  the  stream  extremely  picturesque.  Tlie  banks 
are  uniformly  low,  and  torn  by  the  action  of  the  water, 
which  gradually  undermines  them  until  a  long  strip  of 
the  forest  falls  with  a  tremendous  crash  into  the  river, 
strewing  the  shore  with  long  lines  of  its  ruins.  As  we 
drifted  down  we  never  wearied  noting  the  varied  grouji- 
ing  of  the  pendant  masses  of  vegetation  which  fringed 
the  islands  and  river-banks.  Yet  there  was  one  thing  we 
missed.  The  hills  were  gone.  How  lonesome  one  feels 
without  the  mountains  !  AYe  know  not  what  part  of  the 
education  of  our  feelings  we  owe  to  the  hills.  Should  they 
be  levelled,  we  would  soon  find  that  they  were  raised  for 
purposes  other  than  irrigation,  or  those  which  the  so-called 
utilitarian  discovers. 

We  only  realized  this  after  having  travelled  for  weeks 
beneath  dense  forests,  where  only  now  and  then  we  could 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  sky  above,  and  upon  a  river  where 
the  tall,  prison-like  walls  of  the  forest  shut  us  in  day  after 
day,  until  we  longed  for  just  one  look  upon  the  world  out- 
side— longed  for  some  elevated  position,  that  our  eyes 
might  range  over  the  tops  of  the  forest,  and  rest  satisfied 
with  seeing  the  blue  lines  of  distant  hills.  But  no  moun- 
tains break  the  uniformity  of  that  forest-level,  which  bears 
away  thousands  of  miles  to  the  Atlantic,  relieved  only  by 
some  slight  elevations  toward  the  mouth   of  the  Am  a- 


LAST  VIEW  OF  THE  ANDES,  287 

zons  ;  so  that  we  knew,  when  we,  some  time  before,  bade 
farewell  to  the  Andes,  that  the  first  mountains  which  would 
cheer  us  would  be  our  own  native  hills.  Imagine,  then, 
the  surprise  and  delight  with  which,  as  the  sun  arose  upon 
the  28th  of  November,  we  saw  it  faintly  tracing  to  the 
westward  the  outlines  of  the  Cordillera,  and  the  beautiful 
shaft  of  Cotoj^axi,  seemmg  lofty  as  ever,  though  now  two 
hundred  miles  distant.  We  had  bidden  adieu  long  since 
to  the  volcanoes  of  the  Andes,  thinking  we  had  seen  them 
for  the  last  time,  so  that  it  was  with  double  pleasure  we 
once  more  recognized  the  familiar  form  of  our  favorite, 
Cotopaxi ;  which  did  not  now,  as  when  we  looked  uj)  its 
snowy  sides  from  its  foot,  appear  cold  and  stern,  but 
through  the  long  distance  of  the  heated  tropics  it  threw 
a  warm  and  softened  look.  The  rising  mist  soon  drew  a 
light  veil  over  it,  and  shut  out  our  last  view  of  the  Andes, 
The  scene  naturally  recalled  our  first  view  of  Chimborazo 
from  the  Pacific  coast,  as  one  evening,  just  at  sunset,  the 
clouds  lifted  from  the  Cordilleras.  Those  views  of  the 
Andes,  onr  first  and  last,  as  they  welcomed  us  through  the 
opening  clouds,  in  the  bold,  rugged  outline  of  Chimborazo, 
and  bade  us  farewell  through  the  beautiful  form  of  Cotopaxi, 
awakened  emotions  which  the  lapse  of  time  will  not  lead 
us  to  forget.  "We  feel  such  scenes,  we  take  them  with  us 
through  life ;  we  recall  them  often,  or,  rather,  they  come  up 
imcalled ;  but  words  will  not  permit  us  to  tell  them  to  others. 
Our  passage  down  the  river  was  a  pleasant'one.  Din- 
ing the  day,  when  our  Indians  were  not  working  at  the 
paddles,  we  would  allow  our  craft  to  float  just  as  suited 
its  own  fancy,  stern-foremost  or  sideways,  and,  as  we 
drifted  thus  leisurely  with  the  current,  two  of  our  number 
would  put  off  with  the  little  canoe,  which,  when  not  in 
use,  we  kept  lashed  to  the  side  of  our  "  Zaparo,"  in  pursuit 
of  birds,  monkeys,  and  peccaries.  The  last-named  {Dico- 
tyles  labiatiis),  a  species  of  wild-hog,  in  common  with  the 


288  CANOE-VOYAGE  DOWN   THE  EIO  NAPO. 

puma,  is  one  of  the  few  So atli- American  animals  that  have 
found  their  way  into  the  tropical  portion  of  the.  northern 
continent. 

Among  the  many  beautiful  birds  upon  the  IsTapo,  the 
guacamaya,  belonging  to  the  parrot  family,  is  the  most 
conspicuous.  We  kept  one  of  these  birds  for  some  time 
uj)on  our  craft,  as  a  pet,  having  clipped  its  wings.  It  was 
more  beautiful  than  amiable ;  and,  having  acquired  a  habit 
of  climbing  to  the  roof,  and  of  tearing  holes  through  the 
thatch,  and,  upon  our  going  for  it,  of  falling  overboard, 
we  disposed  of  it,  preserving  its  sldn  to  grace  some  future 
museum.  The  toucan  is  often  seen  upon  the  Napo.  It  is 
a  prettily-colored  bird,  but  all  ideas  of  proportion  are  for- 
gotten in  its  rostral  development.  What  a  beak  for  such 
a  bird,  or  for  any  bird !  We  think  it  is  Goldsmith,  in  his 
"  Animated  Nature,"  who  says  that,  after  we  have  seen  a" 
thing,  we  begin  to  reflect  upon  its  "  uses,  juirposes,  and  in- 
convenience." We  fell  into  a  train  of  reflection,  as  every 
one  else  when  he  sees  a  toucan  always  does,  but  no  use,  no 
purpose,  could  we  divine.  Had  we  never  been  able  to 
discover  but  one  of  these  comical  creatures,  we  should 
have  solved  the  problem  instanter,  by  shouting,  "  Liisus 
Qiaturce!  "  At  last  we  wished  for  Darwin,  that  he  might 
tell  us  to  what  process  of  "  natural  selection"  we  were  in- 
debted for  this  ornithological  absurdity.* 

We  found  but  few  species  of  humming-birds  upon  the 

* "  It  has  been  assumed  by  some  writers  on  natural  history,  that 
every  wild  fruit  is  the  food  of  some  bird  or  animal,  and  that  the  varied 
forms  and  sti'ucture  of  their  mouths  may  be  necessitated  by  the  peculiar 
character  of  fruits  they  are  designed  to  feed  on;  but  there  is  more 
imagination  than  fact  in  this  statement :  the  number  of  wild  fruits  fur- 
nishing food  for  birds  is  very  limited,  and  birds  of  the  most  varied  struct- 
ure, and  of  every  size,  will  be  found  visiting  the  same  tree." — Wallace. 
This  applies  to  the  toucan  ;  we  cannot  account  for  its  immense  beak  by 
supposing  it  the  result  of  adaptation  to  certain  habits  of  life ;  it  feeds 
v,-ith  birds  that  have  bills  as  widely  difiercnt  as  possible. 


IIUMMEllS.  289 

river.  The  elevated  valleys  of  the  Ancles  are  their  favorite 
home.  There  are  about  four  hundred  known  species  of 
hummers,  all  of  wliich  belong  to  the  Americas,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  about  half  a  dozen,  are  confined  to  the 
southern  continent.  They  are  frequently  found  as  far 
south  as  Tierra  del  Fuego.  Their  chosen  habitat  is  the 
zone  of  vegetation  which  lies  just  below  the  paramos  of 
the  Cordilleras.  Those  living  in  the  shade  of  the  forest 
of  the  Amazonian  Valley  are  destitute  of  that  brilliancy 
of  coloration  which  characterizes  the  hummers  of  the  high 
slopes  of  the  Andes.  They  probably  feed  but  little  upon 
the  nectar  of  flowers,  but  frequent  them  for  the  insects 
there  found.  Like  otlier  fissirostral  birds,  they  frequently 
catch  insects  in  the  air.  The  full  beauty  of  the  hummer 
is  only  displayed  when  it  is  upon  the  wing,  flitting  in  the 
bright  sunlight,  when  every  change  of  position  gives  bril- 
liant metallic  flashes  from  its  irisated  breast. 

From  the  playas,  or  sand-bars  of  the  river,  we  obtained 
large  quantities  of  turtles'  eggs,  which  served  a  good  pur- 
pose, as  our  stock  of  provisions  brought  from  Quito  was 
becoming  much  reduced.  On  approaching  a  playa  which 
promised  to  aftbrd  eggs,  ovir  Indians  would  cry,  '■''Lulun,  lu- 
lunP''  "  eggs,  eggs ! "  and,  pulling  vigorously  for  the  island, 
we  would  soon  be  running  over  the  hot  sand,  each  with  a 
stick,  which  he  would  thrust  into  every  suspicious-looking 
depression,  the  nest  being  discovered  in  this  waj'.  It  was 
with  a  satisfaction  nearly  akin  to  our  boyish  pleasure  of 
hunting  hens'  nests  in  the  hay-loft,  that,  after  digging 
through  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  loose  sand,  we  would 
discover  the  pile  of  round,  white  eggs,  stowed  away  to  the 
number  of  eighty  or  one  hundred  and  twenty  ;  and  then 
roll  them  out  in  handfuls  upon  the  sand.  The  turtle 
which  deposits  these  eggs  does  not  exceed  two  feet  in 
length,  attaining  a  weight  of  about  eighty  pounds. 

These  playas  frequently  afibrded  us  stopping-places  for 
If. 


290  CANOE-VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  PJO  NAPO. 

the  night ;  our  Indians  always  preferring  encamping  npon 
them,  to  landing  on  the  wooded  hank,  as  they  were  more 
free  fi-om  insectile  pests,  Bnt  do  not  think  these  islands 
were  "  Ely sian  Fields."  Far  from  it.  The  sancudos  (mos- 
quitoes) were  even  there  in  strong  force.  Our  Caracas 
party  have  complained  of  meeting  a  few  in  Venezuela. 
There  may  be  a  few  np  there  on  the  Orinoco,  but  there  is 
not  the  least  doubt  in  the  world  but  that  they  have  their 
headquarters  npon  the  Napo.  It  was  impossible  to  with- 
stand their  attacks,  and,  upon  the  approach  of  evening, 
we  were  driven  beneath  our  nettings,  where  we  would  lie 
nervously  watching  the  swarming  insects,  which  we  could 
see  against  the  light  of  the  sky,  gathered  in  large  groups, 
or  walking  about  upon  the  outside  of  our  mosquiteros. 
Nor  were  we  always  favored  by  having  them  without. 
Somehow  they  vrould  gain  admittance  ;  either  by  entering 
with  us,  or  by  searching  out  some  hole  ever  undiscover- 
able  to  us. 

Wliile  we  ahvays  spent  the  night  upon  our  craft,  our 
Indians  would  sleep  npon  the  playa.  Let  us  stroll  over  to 
their  camp,  discovered  by  that  little  fire  built  of  drift- 
wood, which  they  have  collected  from  the  island.  Their 
spears  are  stuck  in  the  sand  a  few  yards  from  the  fire,  .be- 
fore which  is  squatted  the  pensive  old  governor,  holding 
upon  his  knees  a  little  Indian  baby,  while  a  young  squav/ 
is  stirring,  with  a  rough  stick,  the  contents  of  an  earthen 
pot  placed  over  the  fire.  This  is  their  supper ;  being  a 
conglomeration  of  meat,  turtles'  eggs,  bananas,  yucas, 
and  annotto.  The  other  members  of  the  party  are  seated 
about  the  fire,  or  a  little  distant,  listening,  with  some  de- 
gree of  excitement,  to  the  least  splash  in  the  water,  or 
noise  in  the  forest,  which  might  indicate  the  presence  of 
game.  After  disposing  of  supper,  they  will  stretch  them- 
selves upon  the  sand,  beneath  a  rude  shelter  of  palm- 
loaves.     Such  is  tlic  life  of  these  wandering  Indians.     "We 


ODDITIES.  291 

pity  them.  Still  tliey  are  content,  for  tliey  know  of  noth- 
ings hio-her,  iiothing-  better. 

We  were  often  amused  by  the  oddities  of  our  Indians. 
Like  all  natives  of  the  tropics,  they  manifested  a  decided 
aversion  to  clothing.  Having  resolved  one  day  to  mod- 
ernize our  crew,  we  gave  to  them  some  cast-ofl"  garments. 
Their  attempts  to  put  themselves  inside,  comically  be- 
trayed their  lack  of  acquaintance  with  such  articles.  It 
was  decidedly  entertaining  to  see  them  climbing  into  the 
pants  wrong  end  up,  and  getting  the  other  things  on  up- 
side down  ;  but,  with  the  fit  about  the  neck  not  being  good, 
tryinff  a<zain,  bringino;  them  on  inside  out,  or  wrono;  side 
before.  To  the  governor,  who  was  freely  perspiring  with 
his  exertions  in  the  sweltering  heat,  we  gave  an  overcoat, 
and  so  lugubriously  did  he  survey  hmiself,  that  for  once 
our  other  Indians  shouted  v.ith  merriment.  They  kept 
themselves  inside  but  a  short  time,  and  then  tore  the 
things  to  pieces  to  subserve  other  more  important  pur- 
poses. 

December  1st. — To-day  we  saw  the  first  representatives 
of  the  genus  homo  since  being  upon  the  "  Zaparo."  They 
comprised  a  party  of  eight  or  ten  Indians — namesakes  of 
our  craft.  More  unhuman  they  seemed  than  the  monkeys 
of  the  forest.  Almost  their  only  clothing  were  strips  of 
bark  ;  their  bodies  were  blackened  and  blotched  with  the 
attacks  of  insects,  and  their  whole  aspect  indicated  a  life 
of  the  lowest  degradation.  We  afterward  saw  two  otlier 
canoe-loads ;  but,  as  soon  as  they  caught  sight  of  our  craft, 
they  pulled  into  a  side-channel  of  the  river  and  disap- 
peared. Upon  the  4th  we  overtook  a  Spanish  trader  on 
his  way  to  the  Maraiion,  with  a  quantity  of  sarsaparilla 
and  hammocks.  "Wishing  to  secure  some  of  the  latter,  we 
drew  alongside  of  his  canoe,  and  opened  negotiations. 
To  our  first  question,  put  in  Spanish,  respecting  the  value 
of  his  hammocks,  he  replied  in  Englisli,  which  was  sucli  a 


292  CAXOE-VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  KIO  NAPO. 

murderous  attempt  upon  the  language,  that  we  impul- 
sively informed  him  that  "\ve  did  not  understand  English. 
With  Spanish  grandiosity  he  then  set  forth  the  Virtues  of 
his  hammocks.     We  purchased  several,  and  j&oated  on. 

Upon  the  night  of  the  8th  we  were  aroused  by  a  se- 
vere storm,  that  threatened,  for  a  time,  to  unroof  our 
craft.  We  encountered  these  squalls  frequently  upon  the 
Lower  Napo,  and  they  were  a  source  of  constant  appre- 
hension. Moreover,  we  were  now  among  wilder  Indian 
tribes,  for  we  had  passed  beyond  the  limits  of  the  ISTapos 
and  Zaparos.  Consequently,  upon  the  night  of  the  9th, 
we  instituted  a  watch.  There  is  more  pleasant  employ- 
ment than  watching  for  wild  Iquitos,  Orejones,  and  Putu- 
mayos  in  the  Xapo  forest. 

The  Napo,  during  its  lower  course,  becomes  a  majestic 
stream,  and,  forgetting  its  former  haste,  moves  slowly 
down  ;  and  so  Ave  were  borne  leisurely  alongside  its  for- 
est-borders. We  have  spoken  of  the  impressiveness  of 
tropical  vegetation.  Yet  we  think  we  are  in  accord  with 
all  travellers  in  intertropical  America  when  we  say  that, 
in  the  forests  of  those  regions,  we  find  but  little  of  the 
quiet  beauty  of  our  northern  woodland  scenery.  We  ad- 
mire them  because  of  their  many  individual  stately  forms, 
their  boldness  of  growth,  their  wildness,  and  their  luxu- 
riance. But  the  one  element,  color,  which  must  enter 
largely  into  any  landscaj^e  view  calculated  to  j^roduce 
a?sthetical  effect,  is  here  almost  entirely  wanting.  We 
have  remarked  the  scarcity  of  flowers  in  these  dense, 
primeval  forests.  Then  the  I'ich,  autumnal  tints  of  our 
own  northern  woods  are  here  unknown  ;  throughout  the 
months  there  is  the  same  eternal,  unvarying  green.  Not 
willingly  would  we  exchange  our  own  forest  scenery  for 
that  of  the  tropics. 

Upon  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  December  we  discov- 
ered a  few  huts  upon  a  low  bluff  of  the  river,  and,  landing. 


VIEW  OF  THE  MAEAis^ON.  293 

found  we  were  at  Cumindo,  a  little  Indian  village,  only  a 
short  distance  from  the  Mararion.  That  the  mighty  river 
was  almost  reached,  and  a  life-long  desire  to  he  gratified 
by  a  view  of  its  majestic  stretches,  awakened  every  feel- 
ing of  anticipation.  One  more  bend  of  the  Napo,  and 
tlie  great  river  was  before  ns,  rolling  its  broad  volume  of 
turbid  water  down  between  the  wall-like  forest,  which 
stretched  av/ay  in  the  distance  until  only  broken  lines 
rested  upon  the  water,  which  soon  gave  way  to  an  un- 
bounded horizon.  It  was  the  strange  solitude  which  most 
strongly  impressed  us — the  silently-flowing  waters,  the 
deep  forest  buried  in  the  torpor  of  mid-day,  their  only 
possessor  the  apathetic  Indian  squatted  at  our  feet. 

Drawing  ashore  ujion  the  point  of  land  just  where  the 
two  rivers  commence  to  mingle  their  floods,  we  hastily 
photographed  the  scene,  with  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
Amazons  as  a  watery  perspective  to  several  beautiful  isl- 
ands, lending  picturesqueness  to  the  view.  Reembark- 
ing,  we  bade  farewell  to  the  Rio  ISTapo,  and  our  little  craft 
drifted  into  the  strong  current  of  the  Amazons. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

THE     UPTEK     AMAZOXS. 

> 

The  Elver. — Origin  of  its  Name. — Pebas. — Marine  Shells.— Geoiogy  of  the 
Valley. — Glacial  Phenomena. — Farewell  to  our  "  Zaparo." — Steam- 
ers upon  the  Amazons. — The  "  Morona." — Maucallacta. — Indians 
Alarmed. — Loreto. — Tabatinga. — The  "Icamiaba." — Foute  Boa. — 
Tefi'e. — "  llcny  Christmas !  " — Arrival  at  Manaos. 

Y\"e  can  form  only  vague  conceptions  of  the  magni- 
tude of  the  majestic  Amazons.  Observe  its  great  length, 
stretching  across  the  continent  almost  from  ocean  to 
ocean.  Taking  its  rise  less  than  one  hundred  miles  from 
the  Pacific  upon  the  "vvest,  it  runs  a  distance  of  almost  four 
thousand  miles,  to  pour  its  floods  into  the  Atlantic  iipon 
the  east.  But  its  breadth  impresses  us  most  deeply  with 
its  oceanic  proportions;  one  thousand  miles  from  the  sea 
it  has  a  width  of  three  miles ;  at  a  distance  of  five  hun- 
dred it  spreads  out  ten  miles  in  breadth  ;  and  mingles  with 
the  Atlantic  along  a  lino  of  one  hundred  and  fifty.  It  has 
poured  into  it  all  the  waters  rolled  down  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  Andes  along  a  stretch  of  two  thousand  miles,  and 
all  the  floods  from  the  highlands  of  Guiana  upon  the 
north,  and  the  table-lands  of  Brazil  upon  the  south.  So 
gentle  is  the  slope  of  the  valley,  from  the  foot  of  the  Andes 
to  the  ocean,  that  the  Amazons  has  an  average  fall  of  only 
six  and  one-half  inches  to  the  mile,  and  for  the  last  two 
thousand  miles  of  its  course  its  fall  is  less  than  two  inches 


OEIGIN  OF  THE  EIVER'S  NAME.  295 

to  the  mile.  But  notwitlistauding  tliis  almost  absolute 
level  of  the  river-valley,  so  vast  is  the  volume  of  water 
that  presses  toward  the  sea,  that  the  Amazons  sweeps 
down  with  a  current  that  tears  away  its  banks  with  their 
load  of  forest,  and  mottles  its  floods  with  islets  of  grasses 
and  with  trees  torn  from  its  shores. 

Although  we  apply  the  general  term  Amazons  to  the 
whole  river,  the  natives  designate  diflerent  portions  by 
different  names.  From  its  mouth  to  the  Rio  Negro  it  is 
termed  Amazons  ;  the  part  between  that  river  and  Taba- 
tinga,  or  the  Peruvian  frontier,  is  called  Solimoens;  while 
from  Tabatinga  to  the  Andes  it  bears  the  name  Maraiion. 
All  are  familiar  with  the  origin  of  the  name  Amazons — 
how  Orellana,  having  deserted  Pizarro  upon  the  Napo, 
floated  down  that  stream,  and  reported  to  have  seen, 
upon  the  banks  of  the  great  river,  a  tribe  of  female  war- 
riors, that  naturally  suggested  the  fabled  Amazons  of  the 
Afric  Hesperia,  or  of  the  Thermodon  of  Pontus  ;  hence  the 
application  of  the  name  to  the  river  upon  which  they  were 
encountered.  The  foundation  for  this  story  of  a  nation 
of  women-warriors  is  clearly  shown  by  Wallace,  in  the 
following  observations  upon  the  Indian  tribes  of  the 
Uaupes,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Rio  Negro  :  "  The 
men,  on  the  other  hand,  have  the  hair  carefully  parted 
and  combed  on  each  side,  and  tied  in  a  cue  behind.  In 
the  young  men,  it  hangs  in  long  locks  down  tlieir  necks, 
and,  with  the  comb,  which  is  invariably  carried  stuck  in 
the  top  of  the  head,  gives  to  them  a  most  feminine  ap- 
pearance; this  is  increased  by  the  large  necklaces  and 
bracelets  of  beads,  and  the  careful  extirpation  of  every 
symptom  of  beard.  Taking  these  circumstances  into  con- 
sideration, I  am  strongly  of  opinion  that  the  story  of  the 
Amazons  has  arisen  from  these  feminine-looking  warriors 
encountered  by  the  early  voyagers." 

We  found  navigating  with  our  little  craft  more  dan- 


29G  Tili:  UrPEE  AMAZONS. 

gcrous  upon  tbc  Amazons  than  upon  tlie  Kapo ;  wc  were 
in  constant  danger  from  tlie  sudden  squalls  which  swept  up 
the  river  from  the  east.  For  greater  safety,  we  kept  close  to 
the  hanks,  that  we  might  more  quickly  run  the  "  Zaparo" 
into  some  sheltered  spot,  upon  the  approach  of  a  storm.  In 
many  places  the  banks  were  lined  with  fallen  trees,  mark- 
ing the  encroachment  of  the  river  upon  the  forest.  Swiftly 
we  were  borne  down  the  Amazons,  and  upon  the  second 
day  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kio  ISTapo  we  reached  Pebas, 
a  little  Indian  village  located  upon  a  high  bluff  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Ambiyacu,  a  small  stream  liowing  into  the 
Amazons  from  the  north.  We  here  met  Mr.  Hauxwell, 
an  English  natiiralist,  who  was  making  this  place  his  tem- 
porary home  while  engaged  in  securing  collections.  Here 
we  delayed  several  days,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamer 
from  the  upper  Peruvian  waters.  The  town  of  Pebas  is 
rendered  healthful  by  its  elevated  position,  which  gives 
it  the  influence  of  the  easterly  trade-^Yinds.  Tlie  popula- 
tion is  made  up  of  Orejones  and  Yagua  Indians,  who,  for 
the  greater  portion  of  the  time,  are  scattered  in  the  forest, 
upon  the  banks  of  the  little  streams  and  lagoons,  engaged 
in  fishing  and  hunting,  as  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
village  afibrds  insuflicient  game.  These  Pebas  Indians  wo 
found  the  most  abject  and  indolent  of  any  that  it  was  our 
misfortune  to  be  dependent  upon  cast  of  the  Andes.  As 
far  as  we  could  ascertain,  they  seem  to  have  no  idea  of  a 
Good  Spirit ;  yet  they  entertain  vague  conceptions  of  an 
Evil  Spirit,  that  is  the  source  of  all  ill-success  in  their  war 
and  hunting  excursions.  The  Yaguas,  upon  the  death  of 
any  member  of  their  tribe,  bury  the  deceased  in  his  own 
hut,  which  is  then  deserted,  and  all  his  other  possessions 
destroyed. 

Here  we  found,  interstratified  v.'ith  the  clay  of   the 
bluff  upon   which   Pebas  is  situated,  a  stratum   of  ma- 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  VALLEY.  297 

riiie  shells;*  .the  supposed  bearing  of  which,  upon  the 
interpretation  of  the  geologic  facts  of  the  Amazonian 
Valley,  has  been  made  known  by  Prof.  Orton.  There  is 
here  an  interesting  qiiestion  relative  to  intertropical  gla- 
cial phenomena.  Prof.  Agassiz,  after  careful  and  extended 
examination  of  the  deposits,  concludes  that  an  ancient  gla- 
cier once  ploughed  through  the  Amazonian  Valley.  From 
the  report  of  a  paper  on  the  valley  of  the  Amazons,  read 
August  20,  1870,  by  Prof.  Orton,  before  the  American 
Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  we  quote  the 
following :  "  The  conclusion  reached  was  that  facts  were 
incompatible  v/ith  the  existence  of  an  equatorial  glacier, 
and  even  of  an  intertropical  cold  epoch."  Setting  aside 
all  generalizations,  let  us  look  at  naked  facts — see  what 
evidences  of  glacial  action  have  been  found  in  these  tropi- 
cal regions. 

The  geologic  formations  of  the  Amazonian  Valley  have 
been  carefully  studied  by  Agassiz,  and  are  given  by  him 
as,  first,  a  coarse  arenaceous  material,  resting  upon  a  cre- 
taceous formation,  indications  of  which  appear  about  the 
edge  of  the  valley ;  then  a  deposit  of  finely-laminated 
clays,  overlaid  by  sandstone,  fully  eight  hundred  feet  in 
thickness.  This  has  been  subjected  to  denuding  agencies, 
which,  toward  the  lower  portion  of  the  valley,  have  re- 
moved, in  some  instances,  the  entire  thickness  of  the  de- 
posit, leaving  isolated,  flat-topped  mountains,  such  as  the 
liills  of  Almeyrini,  vrhich  form  the  most  consj^icuous  ob- 


*  ilr.  Conrad,  to  whom  these  shells  were  submitted  for  identification, 
gives  the  number  of  species  as  seventeen,  all  extinct,  belonging  to  nine 
genera,  only  three  of  which  are  now  represented.  The  following  list 
contains  the  most  important ;  others  may  yet  be  added  :  Isaca  Ortoni,  I. 
Lintea,  Liris  laqueta,  Ebora  crassllabra,  E.  bella,  Ilemisinus  sulcatus, 
Dyris  gracilis,  Neritina  Ortoni,  Bulimus  linteus,  Pachydon  (Anisothyris) 
tenuis,  P.  carmatus,  P.  oblicjuus,  P.  crcctns,  P.  cuncatus,  P.  ovatus,  P. 
altus,  and  a  bivalve  allied  to  Mulleria. 


298  THE  UPPER  AMAZONS. 

jects  in  the  scenery  of  the  Lower  Amazons,  and  mark  the 
thiclaiess  of  the  formation.  Resting  nnconformably  upon 
the  sandstone  thus  denuded,  lies  a  deposit  of  clay,  of  a 
bro\vnish-rcd  color,  showing  slight  traces  of  stratification. 
Agassiz,  finding  in  these  vast  deposits  no  fossils  of  any 
kind,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  loaves,  disposes  of  tlio 
question  of  their  origin,  by  supposing  them  to  be  glacial 
formations,  deposits  in  a  vast  fresli-water  lake,  into  which 
the  valley  Avas  converted  upon  the  breaking  up  of  the 
glacier,  which,  flowing  from  the  Andes,  crowded  between 
the  highlands  of  Guiana  and  Brazil — the  mouth  of  the 
valley  being  closed  by  an  immense  moraine  barrier.  By 
these  peculiar  circumstances,  under  which  Agassiz  sup- 
poses these  formations  to  have  been  deposited,  he  accounts 
for  the  absence  of  fossils  in  them ;  and  to  the  giving  way 
of  the  barrier,  and  the  escape  of  the  waters  of  the  lake, 
he  refers  the  origin  of  those  "hills  of  denudation"  to 
which  we  have  alluded,  located  in  the  lower  portion  of  the 
valley. 

The  finding  of  marine  or  brackish-water  shells  at 
Pebas  militates  against  this  theory,  unless  it  can  be  shown, 
as  Agassiz  suggests,  that  they  are  accidental,  or  belong- 
to  a  post-glacial  formation,  resulting  from  a  submergence 
of  the  continent,  such  as  is  known  to  have  taken  place  in 
North  America,  after  the  close  of  the  ice-period.  But, 
although  these  shells  prove  the  marine  or  estuary  origin 
of  the  formation  with  which  they  are  identified,  yet  they 
prove  nothing  more.  We  should  be  cavitious,  and  not 
proceed  in  advance  of  our  facts.  These,  as  we  now  pos- 
sess them,  simply  allow  us  to  limit  glacial  action  hero. 
They  may  permit  us,  perhaps,  to  infer  that  portions  of  the 
formations,  or  even  that  the  main  deposits  of  the  Ama- 
zonian Valley,  are  not  of  fresh-water  or  glacial  origin. 
But  we  are  committing  an  error,  if,  from  these  data,  with 
a  hasty  examination  of  the  equatorial  flora,  with  reference 


GLACIAL  PHENOMENA.  •  299 

to  a  cletermination  of  the  question  whether  or  not  there 
has  heen  an  intermingling  of  different  floras,  sucli  as  is 
thought  would  be  attendant  upon  a  cosmic  winter,  we 
make  the  assertion  that  there  has  been  no  "  intei'tropical 
cold  epoch."  The  question  respecting  the  origin  of  the 
principal  deposits  of  the  Amazonian  Valley  aiFects  only  a 
theory,  while  the  one  of  an  intertroi^ical  winter  brings  us 
in  relation  to  facts.  No  theory  which  militates  against 
facts,  pronounced  as  such  by  our  most  accurate  observers, 
can  j^rove  subservient  to  the  cause  of  truth.  The  fact  of 
the  existence  of  ancient  local  glaciers  in  the  tropics  will 
not  admit  of  a  hasty  denial.  Let  us  note  some  observa- 
tions made  by  explorers  of  the  valley.  We  make  from 
"  A  Journey  in  Brazil "  the  following  quotation,  which 
gives  the  results  of  Prof.  Agassiz's  researches  among  the 
serras  of  Ceara,  near  the  picturesque  little  village  of 
Pacatuba :  "  On  this  very  serra  of  Aratanha,  at  the  foot 
of  which  we  happen  to  have  taken  up  our  quarters,  the  gla- 
cial phenomena  are  as  legible  as  in  any  of  the  valleys  of 
Maine,  or  in  those  of  the  mountain  of  Cumberland  in 
England.  It  had  evidently  a  local  glacier,  formed  by  the 
meeting  of  two  arms,  which  descended  from  two  depres- 
sions, spreading  right  and  left  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
serra,  and  joining  below  in  the  main  valley.  A  large 
part  of  the  medial  moraine  formed  by  the  meeting  of  these 
two  arms  can  still  be  traced  in  the  central  valley.  One 
of  the  lateral  moraines  is  perfectly  preserved,  the  village 
road  cu.tting  through  it ;  while  the  village  itself  is  built 
just  within  the  terminal  moraine,  which  is  thrown  up  in  a 
long  ridge  in  front  of  it.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that,  in  the 
centre  of  the  medial  moraine,  formed  by  a  little  mountain- 
stream,  making  its  way  through  the  ridge  of  rocks  and 
bowlders,  is  a  delicious  bathing-pool,  overgrown  by 
orange-trees  and  palms."  Upon  the  side  of  the  serra  of 
Erere,  on  the  northern  shores  of  the  Amazons,  opposite 


300  -THE  UPPEE  AMAZONS. 

the  liills  of  Saiitarem,  are  erratic  bowlders,  masses  of 
liornblende.  Upon  the  Rio  Negro,  just  below  Rio  Brauco, 
we  discovered  ledges  of  compact  hornblende,  to  which  we 
have  already  alluded.*  Will  not  these  throw  some  light 
upon  the  origin  of  the  bowlders  of  Erere  ?  In  collating 
all  the  evidence  of  ancient  glaciers,  found  in  the  moun- 
tains about  the  valley,  we  must  not  fail  to  mention  a  fact 
obtained  by  Agassiz  from  the  careful  and  reliable  observer 
Dr.  Felice.  He  states  that  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the 
valley,  running  from  Serra  Grande  to  the  Rio  Arucaty- 
Assii,  is  a  wall-like  accumulation,  composed  of  the  usual 
debris  of  moraines,  which  has  an  extent  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles.  Passing  from  the  valley  of  the  Ama- 
zons, but  still  remaining  within  the  lines  of  the  tropics, 
we  find  other  unmistakable  traces  of  glaciers.  In  the  vi- 
cinity of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  Agassiz  found  the  surface  of 
the  rocks  upon  which  the  drift  rests  characterized  by 
tliose  peculiar  iindulations  recognized  as  one  of  the  dis- 
tinctive marks  of  moving  ice-masses,  and  which  are  termed 
roches  moutonnees.  Erratic  bowlders  fill  the  drift,  differ- 
ing so  essentially  from  the  rocks  in  place  as  to  leave  no 
doubt  as  to  the  fact  of  their  transportation  from  a  dis- 
tance. Among  the  equatorial  Andes  we  find  evidence  of 
the  snow-line  having  formerly  been  lower  than  at  present. 
We  have  already  alluded  to  the  vast  accumulation  of  sand 
and  gravel,  termed  the  arenal,  resting  upon  the  flanks  of 
Chimborazo,  several  hundred  feet  belovv'  the  line  of  per- 
petual snow  nj)on  that  mountain.  Its  whole  character 
indicates  a  glacial  formation.  Dr.  Loomis  found  traces 
of  glaciers,  such  as  ground  and  striated  rocks,  and  mo- 
raines, upon  the  Peruvian  Andes.  We  certainly  must  not 
ignore  such  facts  as  these,  in  our  search  fpr  an  interpreta- 
tion of  intertropical  geology.  These  facts  appear  to  indi- 
cate an  intertropical  winter — at  least,  such  a  reduction  of 

*See  page  1S9. 


GLACIAL  PHENOxMENA.  001 

the  temperature  as  to  cause  a  lovrering  of  the  snow-line 
upon  the  Ancles,  and  the  formation  of  local  glaciers  among 
tlie  serras  of  Brazil.  "N^liat  are  required,  in  order  that  we 
may  he  able  to  read  correctly  the  geologic  history  of  South 
America,  are  more  careful  research  and  greater  caution  in 
making  hasty  generalizations  from  insufficient  data.  If 
we  may  rely  vipon  the  facts  gathered,  the  question  is  one 
not  respecting  the  existence  of  an  "  intertroj^ical  cold 
epoch,"  but  simply  of  the  Ibnitation  of  glacial  action,  or 
ice-phenomena,  under  the  tropics.* 

*  Since  the  above  was  written  and  placed  in  the  hands  of  our  pub- 
lishers, a  new  volume  has  appeared  from  the  pen  of  Prof.  Hart,  of  Cor- 
nell University,  who  is  at  present  (November,  1870)  in  Brazil,  having 
charge  of  an  expedition  from  the  university  above  named.  This  work, 
"  Geology  and  Physical  Geography  of  Brazil,"  is  the  most  accurate  and 
exhaustive  account  of  the  geologic  and  topographical  features  of  that 
country  that  has  ever  been  given  to  the  public.  Every  part  shows  the 
presence  of  the  careful  and  discriminating  observer.  Upon  an  examination 
of  the  work,  we  were  pleased  to  find  that  what  we  have  said  above,  rela- 
tive to  glacial  phenomena,  is  fully  corroborated,  and  all  fairly  placed,  by 
the  researches  of  this  eminent  geologist,  beyond  conjectural  ground.  To 
the  evidences  of  glacial  action  in  equatorial  America,  gathered  by  Agas- 
siz,  and  which  we  have  given  above.  Prof.  Hart  adds  a  long  series  of  phe- 
nomena, as  the  results  of  his  own  explorations  during  two  journeys  in 
Brazil.  Upon  page  29  he  says :  "  I  desire  to  record  here  the  fact  that  I  began 
my  studies  of  the  Brazilian  drift  with  a  conviction  that  Prof.  Agassiz  was 
wrong,  and  I  feel  much  gratified  that  my  independent  observations  have 
so  fully  confirmed  the  results  of  his  own."  After  speaking  of  the 
phenomenon,  so  observable  in  Brazil,  of  the  decomposition  of  gnciis 
rock  in  silii,  and  the  marks  that  distinguish  the  material  thus  resulting 
from  true  drift,  he  goes  on  to  give,  in  different  portions  of  his  work,  evi- 
dences of  drift  found  in  the  coast-provinces  of  Brazil,  "  from  the  Bay  of 
Rio  Janeiro  to  the  Amazons."  Prof.  Hart  regards  the  sandstone  and 
clays  of  the  Amazonian  Valley  as  tertiary  deposits,  thus  limiting  glacial 
action,  as  we  have  supposed,  in  our  remarks  above,  facts  demand  in 
South  America;  yet,  in  exact  correspondence  with  the  views  we  have  ven- 
tured, he  says :  "  My  conclusions,  after  all,  do  not  affect  his  "  (Agassiz's) 
"  theory  of  the  former  existence  of  glaciers  under  the  tropics,  down  to  tlic 
prostnt  level  of  the  sea,  a  theory  which  I  hold  as  firmly  as  he."     But,  for 


302  THE  UPPER  AMAZONS. 

Upon  the  afternoon  of  the  IGth  of  December  the 
steamer  "  Morona  "  arrived  from  Iquitos,  a  thriving  little 
town  about  •  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  above  Pebas, 
upon  the  left  bank  of  the  Maraiion.  It  was  like  bidding 
farewell  to  an  old  friend,  to  part  with  our  little  "Ziiparo," 
which  had  so  long  been  our  pleasant  home,  and  that  had 
floated  us  safely  through  six  hundred  miles  of  the  great 
forest.  We  left  it  moored  in  the  waters  of  the  Ambiyacu, 
with  our  Indians  busily  engaged  in  tearing  it  to  pieces,  in 
order  to  disencumber  their  canoes. 

The  first  line  of  steamers  upon  the  Amazons  was  es- 
tablished between  Para  and  Manaos,  in  1853 ;  the  second, 
from  the  latter  town  to  Tabatinga,  upon  the  Brazilian 
frontier,  in  1858  ;  the  third,  in  18G2,  whose  vessels  navi- 
gate the  head-waters  of  the  river  as  high  as  Chosoba,  in 
Peru.  The  presence  of  steamers  upon  the  Amazons,  in 
connection  with  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  lines  which  gir- 
dle the  continent,  have  done,  and  are  doing,  more  for  the 
development  of  that  country  than  all  other  influences 
combined.  It  has  been  the  absence  of  means  of  inter- 
communication that  has  rendered  the  progress  of  South- 
American  states  so  slow  and  unsatisfactory.  Brazil  has 
at  length  awakened  to  the  truth  that  rapid  and  cheap 
transportation,  the  consequent  outgrowth  of  untrammelled 
competition,  is  the  most  effective  agent  in  secui'ing  na- 
tional wealth  and  growth.  On  September  7,  1867,  she 
threw  open  the  Amazons  to  the  competitive  commerce  of 
all  nations.  The  steamers  upon  that  river  and  its  tribu- 
taries are  transforming  the  coimtry.  Their  shrill  whistle 
seems  to  awaken  the  slumbering  natives.  Quite  a  heavy 
trade  has  ali-eady  sprung  iip  in  India-rubber,  Brazil-nuts, 
cacao,  coffee,  cotton,  sarsajDarilla,  tobacco,  horses,  cattle, 

further  information  relative  to  these  interesting  questions,  we  must  refer 
our  readers  to  the  work  itself,  which  is  a  valuable  and  permanent  contri- 
bution to  the  geology  of  our  southern  continent.  * 


THE   "MOKONA."  3C3 

dried  meat,  hides,  |)irarucu-lis]i,  turtles,  turtle-oil,  copaiba, 
and  guarana. 

The  "  Moroiia,"  which  took  us  aboard  at  Pebas,  was  a 
swift  iron  steamer,  especially  adapted  for  navigating  the 
rapid  Peruvian  waters.  At  nearly  twenty  miles  an  hour 
she  dashes  down  the  river,  her  engine  driving  the  more 
strongly  when  the  current  strengthens,  in  order  to  render 
her  control  by  the  helm  possible.  Captain  Paygado  was 
acquainting  himself  with  the  intricacies  of  English,  while 
his  associates,  who  were  Englishmen,  were  returning  the 
compliment  by  familiarizing  themselves  with  Spanish  ; 
the  cook  was  from  the  Celestial  Empire;  consequently 
tliere  was  a  babel  of  languages  upon  the  "  Morona."  Three 
hours  from  Pebas  brought  us  to  Maucallacta,  a  small  In- 
dian village,  where  we  anchored  for  the  night,  and  took  in 
wood.  Upon  the  first  introduction  of  steamers  on  the 
Amazons,  these  Indians,  as  might  be  imagined,  were  fear- 
fully alarmed.  They  had  been  sufficiently  long  under  the 
instruction  of  the  padres,  to  have  fire  and  smoke  vaguely 
associated  in  their  minds  with  that  region  v/hich  it  would 
be  desirable  to  avoid.  So,  when  the  steamer  came  plough- 
ing up  the  river,  puffing  out  columns  of  black  smoke,  and 
occasionally  giving  a  terrible  scream,  they  very  naturally 
supposed  that  the  agent  of  tlie  Evil  One  had  come  for 
them;' and,  when  "the  devil's  boat" — which  their  distort- 
ed imagination  pictured  the  monster  to  be — approached 
their  towns,  they  took  to  the  forest,  and  not  until  con- 
vinced that  the  thing  couldn't  run  on  land,  did  they  be- 
come reconciled  to  what  seemed  to  them  an  infernal  con- 
trivance. 

From  Maucallacta  we  dropped  down  to  Caballochoclia, 
where  we  passed  the  night  of  the  l7th,  and  the  next  morn- 
ing steamed  down  to  Loreto,  the  last  Peruvian  tOAvn  met 
in  descending  the  Maraiion.  It  is  located  upon  a  bluff, 
and,  with  its  church  and  the  whitewashed  walls  of  its 


304 


THE   UPPER  AMAZONS. 


huts,  presented  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  villages  we 
had  hitherto  passed.  Thus  we  spent  several  days  drop- 
ping slowly  down  the  river ;  and  finally,  upon  the  20th,  we 
cast  anchor  ofl"  the  frontier  Brazilian  town  of  Tabatinga. 
This  village  consists  of  eight  or  ten  buildings,  only  a  por- 
tion of  which,  however,  are  visible  from  the  river,  as  they 
stand  a  little  bach  from  the  edge  of  a  high  bluff.  Taba- 
tinga is  a  military  post,  and  from  some  rude  earthworks 
sevei-al  guns  look  down  upon  the  river.  The  commandantc 
of  the  post,  sharing  the  enthusiasm  springing  up  through- 
out this  new  and  undeveloped  country  for  collecting  natu- 
ral-history specimens,  had  gathered  quite  a  menagerie, 
Avhich  he  proposed  sending  to  Rio  Janeiro. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  20tl),  the  Brazilian  steamer 
"  Icamiaba  "  arrived  from  Manaos,  and,  bidding  farewell  to 
the  "  Morona,"  we  embarked  upon  this  vessel,  and  the  fol- 
lowing day  steam  and  current  were  bearing  us  swiftly  down 
the  river.  Travelling  upon  the  Amazons  is  attended  with 
as  few  discomforts  as  are  experienced  upon  our  own  north- 
ern waters.  We  lived  upon  deck.  This  Avas  covered  and 
arranged  with  a  table  through  the  centre,  where  our  meals 
were  taken,  so  that  we  might  enjoy  the  grateful  breeze 
created  by  the  movement  of  the  boat.  "We  found  the 
deck  also  a  delightful  place  to  swing  our  hammocks  at 
night. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  the  first  day  from  Tabatinga 
we  reached  San  Paulo,  a  collection  of  huts  inhabited  by 
Ticuna  Indians,  where  we  received  a  little  freight,  and 
again  weighed  anchor.  Xotwithstanding  the  extreme 
darkness,  we  ran  all  night,  and  about  ten  the  following 
morning  arrived  at  Tunantins,  a  village  of  a  score  of 
houses,  located  upon  a  stream  of  the  same  name,  Avhose 
waters  are  black  from  being  steeped  in  the  forest  that 
rises  directly  oixt  of  the  stream.  Early  in  the  morning 
of  the  23d  vre  anchored  in  front  of  Fonte  Boa,  located 


"MEEEY  CHRISTMAS."  305 

upon  the  Cayliiar-liy,  several  miles  from  the  Amazons. 
The  naturalist  Bates  speaks  of  it  as  fearfully  infested  by- 
mosquitoes,  and  not  without  reason  ;  for,  no  sooner  had 
our  steamer  stopped,  than  these  pests  hoarded  our  vessel, 
and  drove  us  fi-om  our  hammocks,  which  arrangements 
afford  admirable  facilities  for  such  attacks  npon  all  sides. 
This  village  is  situated  midway  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  civilizations,  receiving  the  influence  of  neither ; 
the  last  not  extending  beyond  Loreto,  the  most  eastern 
Peruvian  town,  and  the  former  being  felt  but  little  above 
Manaos,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kio  ISTegro.  From  Fonto 
Boa  we  steamed  down  all  day,  without  finding  the  least 
indication  of  life,  until  late  in  the  evening,  and  then  only 
by  leaving  the  iVmazons  and  steaming  up  one  of  its  south- 
ern tributaries,  the  Teffe,  where  we  found  the  town  of 
Ega,  containing  a  mixed  Portuguese,  Indian,  and  Negro 
popiilation  of  about  one  thousand.  Leaving  Ega  we 
again  entered  the  Great  River,  and  steamed  on  and  down 
between  the  eternal  walls  of  eternal  green. 

We  miss  xipon  the  Amazons  the  slo])ing  banks  and 
beautiful  villas  so  characteristic  of  our  northern  rivers. 
As  we  glided  down  day  after  day,  there  was  always  the 
same  blank  horizon  ahead,  the  same  torn  and  crumbling 
banks  rising  but  a  few  feet  from  the  water's  edge,  and  the 
same  giant  forest  walling  the  river  upon  either  side.  To 
us,  accustomed  to  northern  scenery,  there  was  a  strange- 
ness to  that  tropical  nature,  which  always  produced  a  feel- 
ing of  loneliness,  and  constantly  reminded  us  of  the  dis- 
tance of  our  home.  "We  recall  now  a  little  incident  illus- 
trative of  this,  that  occurred  upon  the  morning  of  the 
25th  of  December.  We  were  swinging  in  our  hammocks, 
which  were,  as  usual,  suspended  on  the  deck,  when  the 
familiar  wish  of  "  Merry  Christmas,"  from  one  of  the  more 
thoughtful  members  of  our  party,  suggested  with  unusual 


306  THE  UPrEK  AMAZOXS. 

vividness  home  and  distant  friends,  and  suddenly  trans- 
ported us  to  the  midst  of  a  cheerful  winter  scene.  But 
the  strange  exotic  nature  that  surrounded  us  called  back 
our  thoughts,  and  told  us  that  our  home  Avas  far  distant. 
Dark,  tangled  forest,  overtopped  by  palms  resting  their 
drooping  heads-agamst  the  bronzed  sky,  the  air  quivering 
with  the  heat  of  the  advancing  day,  and  wide  stretches 
of  water,  mottled  with  green  masses  of  floating  grass, 
was  the  scene  that  ushered  in  Christmas  morn  to  us,  upon 
the  lonely  waters  of  the  Upper  Amazons. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
Ilio  Negro,  with  whose  black  waters  the  yellow  Amazons 
refuses  to  mingle,  and  sweeps  proudly  by,  crowding  the 
waters  of  the  Negro  close  to  the  northern  bank.  The  eye 
can  distinctly  trace  for  some  distance  down  the  stream  the 
lino  v\'hich  separates  the  waters  of  the  two  rivers.  This 
strange  aversion  of  these  waters  to  joining  is  repeated  in 
other  fluvial  systems  ;  thus  the  red  floods  of  the  Missouri 
manifest  a  decided  antipathy  toward  uniting  with  the  inky 
. v.aters  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Before  the  confluence 
of  the  Rio  Negro  and  Amazons,  the  latter,  from  a  width 
of  several  miles,  contracts  to  a  breadth  of  less  than  one, 
makes  a  bold  sweep  to  the  north,  and  meets  the  former  al- 
most at  a  right  angle  ;  then,  as  it  jDasses  its  mouth,  turns 
again  to  the  east,  giving  the  Negro  the  appearance  of 
being  the  main  stream,  and,  were  it  not  for  the  difierent 
coloring  of  their  waters,  one  would  be  sure  to  mistake  the 
relation  of  the  rivers,  and  the  Amazons  would  be  pro- 
nomiccd  the  tributary.  The  mouth  of  the  Rio  Negro  is 
twenty  miles  in  width  ;  but  we  enter  a  channel  only  two 
miles  wide,  formed  by  the  northern  bank  and  a  Ioav  island, 
whose  forest  rises  directly  from  the  water.  A  short  hour 
upon  this  black  stream  brought  us  to  Manaos.  It  was 
here  that  we  entertained  the  faint  hope  of  meeting  the 


AERIVAL  AT  MANAOS.  307 

Caracas  party;  but,  realizing  perfectly  the  improbability 
of  such  a  union  of  the  divisions  of  the  expedition,  we 
Y/ere  j^repared  for  the  intelligence  that  nothing  had  been 
heard  from  them.  As  vre  recalled  the  dangers  of  our  own 
v/anderings,  and  the  one  we  had  left  behind,  we  could  not 
but  entertain  many  apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  their 
little  party. 


CIIxVPTER    XXII. 

THE     LOWEK     AMAZOXS. 

Departure  from  Manaos— Our  Steamer.— Monkeys.— Madeira  Kivcr.— Kise 
and  Fall  of  tlie  Amazons.— Flooded  Forest.— Igarapes.— Victoria 
Tlcgia. — VillaBella.— Mountain  Scenery.— Straits  of  Obidos. — Tides.— 
Santarem.— Breaks  in  tlie  Great  Forest.— Oceanic  Eiver.— Natural 
Canals.— Forest.— Para  Estuary.— Para.— Commerce  of  the  Amazons.- 
Settlement  of  the  Valley.— A  Pleasant  Meeting.— Farewell  to  tlic 
Tropics. 

Just  at  evening  on  tlic  20tli  of  December  we  stepped 
aboard  the  steamer,  and  started  for  Para.  We  were 
now  upon  the  last  thousand-mile  stretch  of  the  Great 
Itircr.  The  "  Tapajos,"  our  steamer,  abounded  with  mon- 
keys, turtles,  anacondas,  and  other  denizens  of  the  forest, 
presenting  the  appearance  of  a  floating  menagerie.  The 
most  observed  and  observing  of  all  were  the  monkeys,  of 
which  we  had  a  large  number  aboard ;  some  promenaded 
the  deck  with  freedom,  or  climbed  tlie  rigging,  now  and 
then  engaging  in  sportive  play  vrith  the  passengers,  or 
picking  a  quarrel  with  their  more  unfortunate  anthro- 
.pomorphous  companions.  One  large,  serious  fellow,  al- 
lowed the  run  of  the  boat,  took  infinite  satisfaction  in 
noting  the  approach  of  meal-times ;  then  in  stationing 
himself  above  in  some  unobserved  position,  and,  upon 
the  appearance  of  the  steward,  bearing  upon  his  head  food 
for  the  table,  in  helping  himself.  Once  tlie  dish  contained 
hot  soup,  which  he  could  not  so  rcadil}^  appropriate,  and  he 


MONKEYS.  309 

expressed  his  chagrin,  by  maliciously  capsizing  tlic  vessel, 
distributing  its  contents  over  the  steward.  Among  other 
species  was  the  little  spider-monkey,  or  ateles,  the  smallest, 
most  beautiful,  and  interesting  of  all  the  monkey-tribes. 
Its  expression  bears  a  startling  resemblance  to  that  of  a 
cliild,  and  seems  almost  as  indicative  of  emotion  as  the 
human  countenance.  They  are  very  sensitive  to  cold,  and, 
upon  the  lowering  of  the  temperature,  if  but  a  few  de- 
grees, they  may  be  seen  interlocking  their  long,  slender 
arms  and  tails,  forming  a  very  cozy-looking  heap.  One 
of  the  favorite  pasthnes  of  monkeys  ffe  to  search  one  another 
for  parasites;  the  parent,  with  its  offspring  between  its 
legs,  carefully  examines  it  for  any  thing  of  a  parasitical 
nature,  and,  when  successful,  gives  evidence  of  apparent 
gratification. 

The  day  following  our  departure  from  Manaos,  w'e 
passed  the  mouth  of  the  Madeira,  which,  after  a  course  of 
two  thousand  miles,  pours  its  vast  volume  of  water  into 
the  Amazons,  yet  without  causing  much  appreciable  in- 
crease either  in  its  width  or  in  tlie  strength  of  its  current. 
Below  the  Madeira,  the  aspect  of  the  Amazons  w^as  changed 
by  the  great  number  of  floating  patches  of  grass,  brought 
down  by  that  tributary,  which  was  now  SAVollen  from  the 
rains  of  the  wet  season  that  was  advancing  from  the 
south.  These  tropical  rivers  are  often  fringed  with  wide 
borders  of  aquatic  vegetation,  wdiich,  at  the  time  of  high 
water,  are  torn  away,  and  floated  in  vast  meadoAV-like 
islands  down  the  current. 

This  leads  us  to  sj^eak  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  rivers 
of  the  Amazonian  Valley.  They  are  not  all  subject  to 
rises  at  the  same  time  ;  for  so  great  is  the  breadth  of  the 
valley,  and  so  widely  separated  are  the  head-waters  of  the 
northern  and  southern  tributaries,  upon  opposite  sides  of 
the  equatorial  line,  that  the  periodical  rains  of  the  tropics 
are  felt  upon  the  one  set  of  afllucnts   several  months  be- 


no 


THE  LOWER  AMAZONS. 


fore  their  influence  is  felt  upon  the  other.  Along  the 
line  of  table-lands  and  mountains  that  feed  the  southern 
tributaries,  the  rainy  season  commences  about  September, 
gradually  swelling  those  streams,  which  slowly  roll  their 
floods  toward  the  centi'e  of  the  valley,  reaching  the  Ama- 
zons with  their  highest  waters  about  the  last  of  February 
or  the  first  of  March.  Simultaneous  with  these  contribu- 
tions from  the  south,  the  streams  along  the  slope  of  the 
Andes  are  adding  their  swollen  waters  to  the  great  river. 
At  this  time  the  Rio  Negro,  as  we  have  remarked  in 
speaking  of  that  river,  is  lowest,  and  its  mouth  is  dammed 
np,  and  its  current  even  turned  back  by  the  mass  of  water 
from  the  southern  tributaries.  By  February  the  rainy 
season  is  flooding  the  highlands  of  Guiana  and  the  Cordil- 
leras of  Colombia,  v>'hen  the  Rio  Negro  and  the  other 
northern  aflluents  carry  down  their  gathered  floods,  at- 
taining their  greatest  rise  in  June,  by  Avhich  time  the 
southern  rivers  have  fallen.  Thus  but  one  set  of  tributa- 
ries is  acting  at  once,  to  lift  the  level  of  the  Amazons. 
Should  both  simultaneously  roll  down  their  accumulated 
spring  floods,  the  forest  in  the  centre  of  the  valley  would 
be  almost  submerged.  As  it  is,  the  Amazons  rises  be- 
tween forty  and  fifty  feet  above  its  lowest  level,  and  the 
valley  for  several  miles  either  side  of  the  river  is  laid  un- 
der water.  Some  writers,  from  the  manner  in  which  they 
have  spoken  of  the  inundation  of  the  valley,  leave  the  im- 
pression that  its  whole  extent  is  flooded  as  completely  as 
the  Llano  s  during  the  spring-tides  of  the  Orinoco.  But 
the  portion  of  the  plain  overflowed  is  comparatively  small. 
At  the  time  of  the  highest  rise,  the  forests  are  flooded 
back  probably  not  more  than  an  average  of  fifteen  miles 
from  the  banks  of  the  river,  while  the  greatest  width  of 
the  valley  is  over  seven  hundred  miles. .  This  is  true  of 
the  Amazons  only  between  the  mouth  of  the  Tapajos  and 
Fpper  Peru,  a  distance  of  seventeen  hundred  miles.     Be- 


FLOODED  FOHEST.  311 

low  tlie  tributary  named,  the  liiglilands  of  Guiana  on  the 
north,  and  those  of  Brazil  on  the  south,  crowd  closer  upon 
the  river,  narrowing  the  valley,  so  that  we  no  longer  find 
those  extensive  lowlands  so  characteristic  of  the  river  val- 
ley above  Santarem.  The  flooded  tract  is  called  gapo, 
and  the  narrow,  overarched  channels  intersecting  the 
half-submerged  forest  are  termed  igarajyes,  which,  in  the 
Lingoa  Geral  of  the  Indians,  means  canoe-paths.  Some 
of  these  run  parallel  to  the  Amazons  for  immense  dis- 
tances. Wallace,  in  his  "  Travels  on  the  Amazons,"  says : 
"  From  Santarem  to  Coari  (a  distance  of  eight  hundred 
miles),  a  j^erson  may  go  by  canoe  in  the  wet  season 
without  once  entering  into  the  main  river.  He  will  pass 
through  small  streams,  lakes,  and  swamps,  and  every- 
where around  him  will  stretch  out  an  illimitable  waste 
of  waters,  but  all' covered  vs^ith  a  lofty  virgin  forest.  For 
days  he  will  travel  through  this  forest,  scraping  against 
tree-trunks,  and  stooping  to  pass  beneath  the  leaves  of 
prickly  palms,  now  level  vrith  the  water,  though  raised  on 
stems  forty  feet  high." 

In  the  lagoons  and  quiet  waters  of  these  flooded  re- 
gions grows  that  wonder  of  the  vegetable  Avorld,  the  Vic- 
toria Regia,  the  "Royal  Water-Lily  of  South  America."  * 
To  Mr.  J.  F.  Allen,  a  reliable  authority  in  matters  relative 
to  its  discovery  and  introduction  in  the  conservatories  of 
Europe  and  the  United  States,  we  are  indebted  for  the 
following  historical  material.  It  was  first  discovered,  in 
1801,  by  the  celebrated  botanist  Hranke,  upon  the  Rio 
Marmore,  a  Bolivian  tributary  of  the  Madeira,  who,  as 
says  his  fellow-traveller.  Father  La  Cueva,  upon  first  be- 
holding the  plant  in  its  native  waters,  "fell  on  his  knees 
in  a  transport  of  admiration."     The  plant  was  next  seen, 

*  This  plant  is  sometimes  erroneously  termed  Victoria  RcgiuK. 
Schijmberg,  believing  it  to  belong  to  the  genus  iS^ymphttia,  named  it 
Nymphcea  Victoria :  it,  however,  constitutes  a  distinct  genus. 


312  THE  LOWEE  AMAZONS. 

in  1820,  by  M.  Bonpland,  near  the  junction  of  tlie  Parana 
and  Paraguay  Rivers.  It  was  afterward  met  with  by 
other  travellers,  but  Sir  R,  H.  Schomberg,  who  found  it 
in  Guiana,  in  1837,  was  the  first  to  attempt  to  introduce 
it  in  cultivation  in  Europe  and  our  own  country.  The 
immense  leaves  are  nearly  circular,  four  to  six  feet  in 
diameter,  and  float  upon  the  water ;  the  edge  being  raised 
so  as  to  form  a  rim  about  three  inches  high.  The  under- 
surface  presents  a  remarkably  ridged  appearance,  from  tlie 
prominence  of  the  ribs  which  constitute  the  frame  of  the 
gigantic  leaf.  These  veins  are  nearly  an  inch  in  height, 
and  consist  of  eight  main  ones  radiating  from  the  centre 
of  the  peltate  leaf,  strengthened  by  cross-ribs,  thus  form- 
ing a  strong  support.  This  net-work,  with  the  calyx,  is 
covered  with  long  prickles,  as  is  also  the  petiole,  which  is 
an  inch  in  diameter,  and  which  lengthens  rapidly  to  adapt 
itself  to  the  deepening  waters  during  the  periodical  swell- 
ing of  the  rivers.  The  color  above  is  a  vivid  green,  while 
below  it  is  a  purj^lish  crimson.  The  beautiful,  fragrant 
flower  is  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  with  petals 
six  inches  in  length,  and  is  at  first  of  a  pure  Avhite  color, 
gradually  assuming  a  rose-tint  after  its  expansion.  The 
leaves  will  support  a  great  weight.  They  have  been 
known  to  uphold  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds — a  cover- 
ing being  placed  upon  the  leaf  to  equalize  the  pressure. 
The  Indians  are  said,  while  engaged  in  gathering  the 
seeds,  which  they  use  for  food,  to  cradle  their  infants  upon 
the  leaves,  which  are  first  covered  with  a  light  skin.* 

Two  hours  after  passing  the  mouth  of  tr»e  Madeira, 
v\'e  reached  Serpa,  a  little  Indian  village  of  about  seventy 
houses,  located  upon  a  clayey  bluff"  twenty-five  feet  above 
the  ordinary  level  of  the  river."  One  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  below  Serpa,  upon  the  south  bank,  stands  Villa 
Bella,  where  we  took  on  nibber  and  pirariicn,  which,  with 

*  Pec  fronlispiece. 


STEAITS   OF   OBIDOS.  313 

cacao  and  guarana,  are  the  pi-incipal  exports  of  most  Ama- 
zonian towns.  Larger  qnantities  of  the  last  are  shipped 
from  Villa  Bella  than  from  any  other  town  npon  the  river. 
This  article,  tlie  fifth  in  importance  of  the  exports  of  the 
Amazons,  is  manufactured  from  the  cofiee-likc  fruit  of  a 
spreading  shrub  {Paullinia  sorhiUs),  eight  to  ten  feet  in 
height.  These  seeds  are  roasted,  ground,  then  formed 
into  a  thickened  paste,  and  pressed  into  moulds  of  various 
and  often  fantastic  shapes.  When  grated  into  water  and 
sweetened,  it  makes  an  agreeable  and  refreshing  beverage. 
Its  medicinal  properties  also  render  it  an  excellent  stimu- 
lant, and  a  good  astringent,  successfully  used  in  cases  of 
dysenteric  diseases. 

Before  reaching  Obidos  we  were  greeted,  for  the  first 
time  since  bidding  farewell  to  the  Andes,  by  mountain 
scenery ;  for  like  mountains  appeared  to  us,  long  accus- 
tomed to  the  dead  uniformity  of  the  Amazonian  wilder- 
ness, what  were  in  fact  low  hills  that  occasionally  rose 
above  the  forest.  About  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
below  Manaos  are  the  Straits  of  Obidos.  Here  the  Ama- 
zons, which  above  this  point  spreads  out  three  or  four 
miles  in  width,  narrows  to  less  than  a  mile,  with  a  depth, 
according  to  Lieutenant  Herndon,  of  thirty  or  forty  fatli- 
oms.  The  velocity  of  the  current,  as  it  pours  through  the 
contracted  passage,  is  about  four  miles  per  hour  during 
low  water,  increasing  to  upward  of  five  in  the  rainy  season. 
Although  six  hundred  miles  from  the  sea,  the  iniluence  of 
the  tides  is  here  perceptibly  felt,  raising  the  river  several 
inches.  The  river  never  flows  backward  at  this  point,  but 
the  rise  is  occasioned  by  the  damming  up  of  the  water  be- 
low, wliich  causes  a  slackening  of  the  current,  and  a  lift- 
ing of  the  level  of  the  river.  At  Gurupix,  nearly  three 
hundred  miles  below  Obidos,  the  tide  is  five  feet ;  at  Para, 
a  distance  of  seventy  miles  from  the  sea,  fifteen  feet.  The 
higher  the  tides  at  any  place,  the  less  is  the  river  there  af- 


314  THE  LOWEE  AMAZONS. 

fected  by  the  wet  season :  thus,  at  three  hundred  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Amazons,  there  is  no  perceptible  change 
in  the  level  of  the  river,  except  through  tidal  influence. 

At  the  narrowest  part  of  tlie  strait,  upon  the  north 
bank,  stands  posted  upon  a  high  bluff  the  neat  little  town 
of  Obidos.  The  village  is  quite  regularly  laid  out  and 
free  from  that  rank  growth  of  vegetation  which  defaces 
the  squares  and  streets  of  most  Amazonian  towns.  Seventy 
miles  below  Obidos  v.'e  cast  anchor  off  Santarem,  located 
just  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tapajos,  one  of  the  great  south- 
ern tributaries  of  the  Amazons,  whose  apparently  black, 
yet  clear-blue  waters,  form  a  strange  contrast  to  the  turbid 
current  of  the  Great  River.  The  town  has  a  mixed  Por- 
tuguese and  Negro  population  of  over  two  thousand ;  being, 
next  to  Para,  the  largest  city  upon  the  Amazons.  Grassy 
plains  stretch  out  from  the  town,  and  enable  cattle-raising 
to  be  carried  on  extensively.  Cacao  is  largely  cultivated ; 
while  recent  experiments  prove  that  the  sugai--cane  can  be 
even  more  successfully  raised  here  than  in  our  Southern 
States. 

At  Santarem  we  found  a  large  number  of  rebel  emi- 
grants who  were  there  seeking  a  home.  This  suggests 
one  word  relative  to  that  colonization  scheme,  which  has 
met  with  such  indifferent  success.  When  recent  political 
movements  in  our  country  culminated  in  emancipation,  it 
was  not  strange  that  former  slave-holders  should  look 
about  to  see  where  they  might  be  allowed  the  privilege 
of  enjoying  their  favorite  institvition.  Brazil,  as  an  open- 
ing field  for  enterprise,  immediately  presented  itself.  The 
Brazilian  Government  extended  every  inducement,  de- 
fraying expenses  of  transportation,  offering  bounties,  and 
giving  grants  of  land.  Every  thing  seemed  to  favor  the 
plan  of  colonization ;  and  large  numbers  of  emigrants 
from  the  South,  burning  with  hatred  toward  the  old  flag, 
because  it  now  gave  liberty  and  equal  rights  to  all,  estab- 


BKEAKS  IN   THE  GKEAT   FOEEST.  315 

lislied  themselves  upon  the  coast  of  Bi-azil,  and  along  the 
hanks  of  the  Amazons  and  its  trihutaries.  But,  lacking 
that  energy  and  persistence  indispensable  in  bringing  this 
new  and  undeveloped  country  under  cultivation,  they  soon 
became  dissatisfied,  and  many  abandoned  the  undertaking 
and  returned  home.  Besides,  there  ■were  to  them  other 
discouragements.  Movements  in  Brazil  point  toward 
a  speedy  emancipation  of  her  slaves.  The  probability, 
and,  indeed,  certainty,  of  such  an  event,  deterred  these 
Southern  slave-holders  from  investing  largely  in  a  property 
which  might  any  day  be  rendered  valueless  by  govern- 
mental enactment.  They  saw  that  the  system  was  doomed, 
and  that  the  movement  in  our  country  was  but  a  precursor 
to  that  which  promises  speedily  to  give  freedom  to  the  last 
slave  upon  both  continents.  We  met  some,  who,  having 
Bpent  thousands  in  prospecting  tlie  country  for  selecting 
a  site,  were  returning  home,  and  who  expressed  their 
determination  to  accept  gracefully  the  situation.  Their 
short  tour  in  the  equatorial  regions  had  done  them  good ; 
it  is  only  to  be  lamented  that  more  did  not  make  the 
trip. 

Below  Santarem  the  lovr  forest  frontage  along  the 
northern  bank  of  the  river  is  broken  by  grassy  plains, 
and  upon  the  south  are  also  spread  out  quite  extensive 
carapos  between  the  rivers  Tapajos  and  Xingu.  These 
savannas  are  the  first  break  in  the  great  forest  -which 
otherwise  covers  the  valley  from  the  slope  of  the  Andes 
to  the  Atlantic.  Humboldt,  relying  upon  the  information 
of  others,  speaks  of  the  savannas  of  the  Itio  IvTapo  ;  but 
we  found  a  dense  forest  to  extend  over  all  that  portion  of 
tiie  valley.  Messrs.  Smith  and  Lowe  Avere  unable  to  find 
the  Pampas  del  Sacramento,  which  we  find  laid  do'wnupon 
most  maps  as  breaking  the  forest  between  the  Ucayali  and 
the  Huallaga.  The  eminent  explorer  Wallace  lias  shown, 
by  liis  researches  upon  the  TJaupc's,  that  the  plains  of  Ca- 


31G  THE  LOWEE  AMAZONS. 

guai:i,  in  Colombia,  are  much  less  extensive  than  once  sup- 
posed. These  last  hardly  interrupt  the  forest,  for  we  may- 
consider  them  as  lying  between  the  two  great  valleys  of 
the  Amazons  and  Orinoco.  What  a  grand,  unbroken  sweep 
of  forest  in  this  vast  Amazonian  plain  ! 

It  requires  a  little  over  seven  hours  to  run  from  Santa- 
rem  to  Monte  Alegre,  which  is  situated  upon  the  north 
bank,  a  little  back  from  the  shore,  and  partly  raised  upon 
a  hill,  backed  by  a  low,  marshy  forest,  beyond  which  rises 
a  low  range  of  flat-topped  hills.  The  name  of  the  town 
means  gay  mountain,  and  Mrs.  Agassiz's  first  impression 
was,  that  it  scarcely  deserved  its  title.  Prof.  Agassiz's 
party  ascended  the  river;  one  must  float  down  the  long 
stretch  of  the  monotonous  Amazons,  to  appreciate  the  hill- 
scenery  of  Slonte  Alegre.  After  passing  Mo)ite  Alegre 
the  Amazons  assumes  a  grand  width,  its  shores  separating 
ten  miles,  and  appearing  as  indistinctly-traced  lines  resting 
upon  the  water.  Xothing  impresses  one  so  deeply  with 
the  magnitude  of  this  mighty  river  as  to  allow  the  eye  to 
vrander  over  these  ocean-like  expanses,  and  watch  the 
white  caps  as  they  break  along  with  almost  the  violence 
of  an  open  sea.  While  upon  this  portion  of  the  river  wo 
encountered  severe  storms  travelling  up  the  stream,  that 
often  raised  so  heavy  a  swell  that  the  movement  of  our 
steamer  brought  on  feelings  painfully  suggestive  of  ocean 
experiences.  As  vre  neared  either  shore,  occasionally  a 
native's  hut  or  a  charming  villa  would  look  down  from 
the  bluus,  or  appear  half-buried  in  the  dense  vegetation 
of  the  river-bank.  Along  the  northern  shore  extended 
the  table-topped  hills  of  Almeyrim,  varying  from  a  few 
hundred  to  nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  height.  These  were 
the  last  hills  seen  upon  the  Amazons.  Upon  the  south 
the  grass  plains  v/ere  burning,  and  by  night  the  reflection 
of  the  flames  lighted  large  tracts  of  the  horizon. 

The  30th  of  December  we  passed  the  little  village 3 


PAEA.  317 

Prainlin,  Porto  cle  Moz,  and  Gurupa,  and,  three  liours  below 
the  last,  turned  into  the  channel  Tajapui-u,  which  leads 
from  the  Amazons  into  Para  River.  This  channel  is,  in 
fact,  a  maze  of  deep  natural  canals  joining  these  two  estu- 
aries. We  wound  about  amid  innumerable  islands,  some- 
times passing  through  channels  so  narrow  that  the  over- 
hanging boughs  brushed  our  steamer  as  it  crowded.through. 
As  we  crept  through  these  intricate  water-paths,  Ave  had 
afibrded  us  a  fine  opportunity  to  study  the  low  forests  that 
cover  these  half-submerged  islands.  Palms  entered  more 
conspicuously  into  the  woods  than  they  had  done  farther 
up  on  the  Amazons.  Among  the  many  species  may  be 
seen  the  morichi,  crowned  with  its  cluster  of  fan-like  leaves ; 
while  not  less  conspicuous  are  the  tall,  slender  stems  of 
the  bacaba  and  assai.  From  the  berry-like  fruit  of  the 
latter  is  made  a  delicious  beverage,  the  favorite  drink  of 
Paracuses.  The  low  islands  are  inhabited  by  Portuguese 
and  Indians,  whose  miserable  hovels  are  posted  upon  piles, 
to  keep  them  above  high  water. 

Just  before  emerging  from  this  labyrinth,  w^e  stopped 
at  Breves,  a  little  Portuguese  village,  located  upon  the  isl- 
and of  Marajo,  the  last  port  before  reaching  Para.  A  short 
run  brings  its  upon  the  great  estuary  of  Para,  or  "  Father 
of  Waters,"  as  the  word  signifies  in  the  Indian  language.  It 
is  still  an  open  question  whether  or  not  this  should  be  con- 
sidered as  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Amazons.  Wallace 
believes  that  no  water  finds  its  way  from  the  Amazons  into 
the  Para  estuary,  through  the  cliannels  that  connect  the 
two,  and  he  consequently  considers  it  as  forming  no  part 
of  the  Amazons,  but  as  being  simply  the  estuary  of  the 
Tocantins,  Capira,  Aripana,  and  other  rivers,  that  empty 
into  it  from  the  south.  Agassiz  discovers  that  Marajo, 
from  its  geological  formation,  must  not  be  considered  a 
delta  proper,  but  simply  an  island,  once  fiir  up  the  Ama- 
zons, but  novf  brought  near  its  mouth  by  tlie  encroach- 


31 S  THE  LOWEK  AMAZONS. 

incut  of  tlic  occnii,  -whose  currents  liave  worn  away  the 
nortlieastcrn  portion  of  the  continent.  Hence  he  woukl 
call  the  Para  estuary  one  of  the  outlets  of  the  Amazons, 
and  would  obtain  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  for  the 
widtli  of  the  river  at  its  mouth.  Rejecting  the  Para  es- 
tuary, we  have  left  a  width  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
wiiich  is,  at  least,  the  smallest  estimate  that  can  be  given 
as  the  breadth  of  the  Great  River. 

The  last  day  of  the  year  we  arrived  at  Para,  or  Belcm, 
as  sometimes  called.*  The  city  stands  upon  the  right 
shore  of  the  broad  estuary  of  Para,  seventy  miles  from 
the  Atlantic,  and  sixty  miles  south  of  the  equator.  A 
dense  tropical  forest  crowds  upon  the  city,  and  half  buries 
the  outskirts  beneath  its  encroaching  vegetation.  Para  was 
founded  in  1615,  and  now  comprises  a  population  of  above 
thirty  thousand  mixed  Negroes  and  Portuguese.  The  In- 
dian element,  which  so  largely  predominates  in  most  other 
Amazonian  towns,  is  here  sparingly  represented.  A  small 
number  of  American  and  English  residents  infuse  com- 
mercial life  and  enterprise.  Para  is  destined  to  become 
the  first  city  of  South  America.  It  is  the  centre  toward 
which  gravitate  all  those   commercial  interests  springing 

*  The  following  estimate  of  distances  was  obtained  from  the  Ama- 
zonian Steamship  Companies.  The  towns  left  blank  wc  have  added,  as 
they  arc  also  stopping-places  of  the  steamers : 

From  Para  to  Breves 150  miles. 

"         "  "    Gurupa 252  " 

"        "  "   Porto  de  Moz 

"         "  "   Almeyrim 

"  "   Prainha 375  " 

"        "  "   Monte  Alegre 

"         "  "    Santarcm 466  " 

'*         "  "    Obidos 535  " 

"  "   Villa  Bella G26  " 

"         "  "   Serpa 756  " 

"         "  "   Manfios 872  " 


COilMEECE   OF  BEAZIL.  319 

up  on  tlie  Amazons  and  its  tributaries ;  all  tlie  immense 
resources  of  that  tropic  valley  will,  when  developed,  form 
the  material  from  which  will  be  built  up  here  one  of  the 
largest  ports  of  the  New  World.  Almost  all  the  trade 
of  the  city  is  carried  on  with  European  powers.  We 
have  been  strangely  indifterent  respecting  the  commerce 
of  Brazil  and  the  Amazons.  Although  her  next-door 
neighbor,  we  have  scarcely  any  trade  with  that  empire 
— Portugal's  is  larger  than  our  own.  According  to  a 
recent  estimate,  we  purchase  more  than  twenty-five  mil- 
lion dollars'  worth  of  Brazilian  products  annually,  tlie 
greater  part  of  which  come  to  us  by  the  way  of  Europe, 
This  state  of  non-intercourse  between  us  and  Brazil  is  un- 
natural ;  the  valleys  of  the  Amazons  and  Mississippi  are 
the  complements  of  each  other;  the  products  of  our 
Western  States  are  just  such  as  are  demanded  by  tropical 
Brazil,  while  Brazilian  products  must  find  their  way, 
either  by  direct  or  indirect  trade,  into  the  Mississippi 
Valley.  Here,  at  our  very  door,  lies  a  country  of  immense 
extent,  whose  important  products  arc  numberless,  and  such 
as  we  must  have  ;  still,  we  allow  the  trade  of  these  regions 
to  be  monopolized  by  countries  across  the  Atlantic.  This 
anomalous  course  of  trade  is  the  result  of  a  strange  in- 
difference and  misapprehension,  on  our  part,  respecting  the 
importance  to  us  of  Brazilian  commerce.  Yet  even  the 
trade  carried  on  with  Europe  is  small ;  and  for  this  fact 
we  find  explanation  in  the  unwise  imposition  of  heavy 
tariffs  upon  exports  by  the  Brazilian  Government.  Blind 
to  the  immense  advantage  that  would  result  from  unre- 
stricted commercial  relations  with  other  countries,  Brazil 
has  imposed  heavy  duties  upon  the  most  important  exports 
of  the  Amazonian  Valley,  as  coffee,  cotton,  and  wood,  pre- 
venting free  exportation  of  these  great  staples,  and  their 
conversion  into  gold.  For  illustration,  there  is  a  tariff 
upon  exported  wood  of  fourteen  per  cent.,  and,  as  a  result. 


320  THE  LOWER   AMAZONS. 

the  entire  duty  received  at  the  custom-liouse  of  Pura,  dur- 
ing the  year  1868,  u})on  wood  exported,  including  fire- 
wood for  ships,  was  only  three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  ! 
Were  duty  upon  this  last  article  removed,  Great  Britain 
alone  would  ship  hundreds  of  cargoes  of  the  massaran- 
diiba,  or  "cow-tree"  {Brosimum  galactodendron),  for 
railway  ties  and  sleepers,  in  damp  situations,  where  this 
timber  would  last  for  decades.  For  situations  ex])osed 
to  the  weather,  the  deapil  is  unsurpassed  in  durability ; 
palisades  in  Para,  built  of  this  wood,  stand  at  present 
in  as  good  condition  as  when  constructed  forty  years 
ago  ! 

We  learn,  through  James  Henderson  of  Parti,  to  whom 
we  are  indebted  for  the  facts  already  given,  that  a  Mr. 
Morrison  has  recently  established  a  saw-mill  and  planing- 
inachine  on  the  Amazons,  There  are  two  or  three  other 
mills  of  the  first  character  in  the  valley ;  so  that  the 
valuable  woods  can  be  readily  put  in  available  form  for 
home  use  or  exportation.  There  has  hitherto  been  a  great 
scarcity  of  lumber ;  boxes  in  which  we  transported  our 
collections  from  Para  to  l^ew  York  were  made  of  boards 
imported  from  the  States  !  In  order  that  capital  may  be 
led  to  engage  in  develo^^ing  and  giving  to  the  world  the 
valuable  and  inexhaustible  natural  and  cultivated  prod- 
ucts of  the  Amazonian  Valley,  two  things  are  needed : 
first,  that  Brazil  remove  all  restrictions  to  trade,  by  at 
once  abolishing  the  absurd  tarifii"  upon  exports ;  secondly, 
that  she  shall  render  the  waters  of  the  valley  virtually,  as 
tliey  are  now  nominally,  open  to  free  competition,  by 
ceasing  to  subsidize  the  established  lines  of  steamers, 
which  act,  in  its  practical  workings,  as  effectually  dis- 
courages competition  as  though  the  waters  of  the  river 
were  closed  against  foreign  vessels.  With  these  restric- 
tions removed,  the  trade  of  the  Amazons  would  necessarily 
spring  into  gigantic  proportions.     That  tropical  valley  is 


COLONIZATION.   •  321 

a  vast  storehouse,  wliicli  is  destined,  when  fully  opened, 
to  change  the  commercial  relations  of  the  world. 

Closely  allied  to  the  question  of  the  commerce  of  the 
Amazons,  is  the  one  of  its  colonization ;  for,  although  the 
exports  of  the  valley  at  present  are,  and  for  decades  must 
continue  to  be,  in  the  natural  products  of  its  exhaustless 
forests  and  great  streams,  still,  the  larger  part  of  its  trade 
Tnust  ultimately  consist  in  cultivated  productions,  as  cacao, 
coffee,  cotton,  tobacco,  and  sugar,  all  of  which  can  be 
successfully  raised  within  the  limits  of  the  valley,  and 
with  even  better  returns  than  in  our  Southern  States, 
Xow,  while  the  native  population  can  be  largely  depended 
upon  for  the  collecting  of  the  products  of  their  virgin 
forests,  still,  the  indolent,  unenterprising  Indo-Portuguese 
inhabitants  of  the  valley  cannot  be  hoped  to  develop  the 
full  agricultural  capabilities  of  the  country.  This,  if  done 
at  all,  must  be  effected  by  European  or  North- American 
colonists.  There  are  fewer  discouragements  to  a  well- 
conducted  scheme  of  colonization  than  generally  supposed. 
The  climate  of  the  valley  is  not  excessively  warm,  nor  is  it 
insalubrious  ;  the  mean  annual  temperature  at  Para  is  80°, 
and  Wallace  found  the  greatest  variation  during  four  years 
to  be  only  25°.  One  thousand  miles  inland  from  Para  it  is 
but  one  or  two  degrees  Avarmer  than  at  that  point.  The 
opennature  of  the  valley  to  the  east  allows  the  equatorial 
trade-Avinds  to  sweep  its  entire  length,  which,  while  miti- 
gating the  heat,  render  comparatively  salubrious  the 
bi'oad  river-channels  that  feel  tlieir  influence.  Our  party 
never  enjoyed  better  health  than  while  upon  the  Amazons 
and  its  tributaries.  Intermittent  fevers  are  less  frequent 
on  these  rivers  than  on  our  ov>i\  Western  and  Southern 
waters.  The  wide  tract  of  forest  along  the  rivers,  that  is 
subject  to  inundation,  frequently  pushes  blufls  above  high- 
water  mark,  as  if  purposely  to  provide  sites  for  villas  and 
towns.     The  districts  periodically  flooded  receive  a  rich 


322  TEE  LOWEE  AMAZONS. 

deposit,  and  are  admirably  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of 
the  cacao  and  banana  ;  the  finest  plantations  of  these  wc 
have  observed  stood  iijjon  ground  laid  deep  under  water 
during  the  annual  overflow  of  the  river.  Thus  every  thing 
leads  us  to  liope  that,  as  soon  as  Brazil  is  sufficiently 
awakened  to  her  own  interests  to  lift  from  these  regions 
tlie  incubus  of  governmental  restrictions,  a  foreign  popu- 
lation will  spread  itself  over  the  shores  of  the  great  river, 
and  upon  the  banks  of  its  tributaries,  and  secure  to  the 
world  the  immense  wealth  of  this  tropical  valley. 

A  pleasant  and  unexpected  event  occurred  toward 
the  close  of  our  stay  at  Para.  Upon  the  l6th  of  Janu- 
ary, the  guns  of  the  fort  announced  the  arrival  of  the 
steamer  from  Manaos.  Curiosity  took  us  to  the  wharf, 
whei-e  we  Avatched  the  little  boats,  loadel  with  passen- 
gers, as  they  pushed  from  the  vessel,  that  had  dropped 
anchor  a  short  distance  from  the  city,  and  pulled  to  the 
shore.  All  had  landed  save  one,  and  we  had  turned  away, 
when  a  familiar  call  directed  our  attention  to  the  boat, 
that  had  nov/  neared  the  whai"f  There  was  the  Caracas 
party!  That  was  a  joyous  meeting.  Paraenses  doubtless 
thought  us  demonstrative.  But  that  was  what  Para  had 
never  seen  before,  and  probably  never  will  again — the 
union  of  two  expeditions  across  the  continent,  from  the 
north  and  west,  and  their  arrival  upon  the  Atlantic  within 
two  Aveeks  of  the  same  date.  But  there  Avere  only  two 
of  the  Caracas  division.  Where  was  the  third  ?  Attacked 
by  the  fever  of  the  loAvlands  of  Venezuela,  he  had  been 
obliged  to  return  homoAvard.  Then  came  inquiries  for  our 
companions.  One  had  sailed  for  Rio  Janeiro,  another  for 
New  York.  But  where  the  artist  ?  Then  Ave  told  them 
of  the  lonely  grave  among  the  Andes.  Was  it  strange 
that  the  first  night  of  our  meeting  Ave  forgot  to  sleep,  and 
that  the  morning  found  us  telling  of  adA^entures  experi- 
enced since  our  parting  at  Ncav  York  ? 


EMBAKKED   FOR  HOME.  323 

Upon  the  l8tli  of  January  we  bade  fai-ewell  to  Para, 
and  upon  the  "  Tigrcs  "  embarked  for  home.  As  we  passed 
slowly  down  the  Para  River,  the  sliores  became  more  and 
more  indistinct,  and,  while  we  were  still  upon  its  turbid 
waters,  land  entirely  disappeared.  From  the  mouth  of 
the  river  we  sailed  directly  to  Barbadoes,  one  of  the 
Windward  Islands  of  the  West  Indies.  Here  we  delayed 
one  day,  the  Sabbath,  and  then  again  weighed  anchor. 
In  the  gray  light  of  the  morning  of  the  11th  of  February, 
we  welcomed  the  snowy  hills  of  Neversink;  soon  we 
were  pushing  through  the  floes  of  ice  that  choked  the 
harbor  of  New  York,  and  in  a  few  hours  the  cars  were 
bearing  us  rapidly  along  the  banks  of  the  ice-locked  Hud- 
son, toward  our  home.  Nothing  impressed  more  deeply 
upon  our  minds  the  equatorial  scenes  we  had  left,  than  tlie 
stransre  contrast  between  the  snow-clad  banks  of  our 
frozen  Hudson  and  the  forest-fringed  shores  of  the  ever- 
verdant  Amazons.  Pleasant  were  our  wanderings,  and 
ever  vivid  will  be  our  recollections  of  Nature  under  the 
Tropics. 


i:n^  D  E  X. 


Above  the  clouds,  210. 
Agave  Americana,  29. 
Aguas  negras,  freedom  from  insects, 

161. 
Agassiz,  glacial  theory  of,  298. 
Atabapo,  overflo'w  of,  1G2. 

vovage  upon,  161. 
Alligators,  V8,  204. 
Altitude  of  Quito,  226. 
Alvino,  67. 

Amalgamation,  effects  of,  232. 
Amazonian  forest,  252. 

forest,  breaks  in,  315. 

rivers,  rise  of,  309. 

valley,  climate  of,  309,  321. 

valley,  colonization  of,  314,  321. 

valley,  forest  in,  252. 

valley,  inundation  of,  310. 

valley,  mountains  in,  313,  316. 

valley,  saw-mill  in,  320. 
Amazons,  253. 

breadth  of,  294. 

no  delta  to,  317. 

fall  of,  294. 

features  of,  316. 

first  steamers  on,  302. 

first  view  of,  293. 

first  waters  of,  265. 

futui-e  of,  320. 

length  of,  294. 

names  of,  295. 

origin  of  the  name,  295. 

rise  of,  309. 

scenery  uj)on,  305. 

tides  upon,  313. 

trade  on,  302,  319. 

travelling  upon,  304. 

valley  of,  265. 

width  of,  at  mouth,  S18. 
Ambato,  221. 
Anacondas,  96. 
Ancient  sea-beaches,  198. 


Andes,  1. 

as  a  condenser,  268. 

ascent  of,  210. 

eastern  slope  of,  268. 

first  view  of,  205. 

last  view  of,  287. 

sunset  among,  260. 

trail  over,  215. 

tripartition  of,  9. 

crest  of,  214. 

table-lands  of,  9. 

vegetation  upon,  200,  216. 

vespers  among,  222. 

views  among,  221. 
Annotto,  76. 
Ants,  18,  70,  116. 

eaten  by  Indians,  117. 

ravages  of,  117,  157,  207. 

roads  of,  117. 
Antisaua,  245,  269. 

hacienda  of,  245. 
Apure  Eiver,  steamer  on,  88. 
Aquatic  birds,  101. 
Aragua,  valleys  of,  32. 
Araquatoes,  74. 
Arborescent  ferns,  275. 
Archidona,  272. 
Arenal,  214,  300. 
Aspinwall,  194. 
Ateles,  309. 
Atures,  rapids  of,  141. 

town  of,  144. 

tribe  of,  149. 
Avila,  mountain-range  of,  10. 

Baeza,  269. 

Ballazar,  town  of.  163. 

Bamboos,  72,  2041 

Bananas,  131. 

Baraguau,  straits  of,  124. 

Barcellos,  186. 

Barra,  191. 


INDEX. 


325 


Bats,  138. 

smoking  out,  114. 

vainpire,  189. 
Baul,  towu  of,  66,  85. 
Bees,  279. 

cells  of,  280. 
Birds,  aquatic,  101. 

tipon  the  Llanos,  81. 
Bixa  Orellaiia,  76. 
Black  waters,  causes  of  coloration, 

108. 
Blow-gun,  1-41. 

use  of,  145. 
Bodegas,  207. 
Bogota,  plains  of,  10. 
Bongo,  66,  77. 

Books,  difficulty  of  preserving,  18. 
Bowlders,  erratic,  300. 

formation  of,  136. 
Brazil-nuts,  183. 
Bread-trays,  260. 
Breves,  317. 

Bridge-building  monkeys,  76. 
Butclicring,  abnormal,  107. 

Cabo  Blanco,  6. 

Cacao,  cultivation  of,  45. 

fruit  of,  46. 
Cactuses,  28,  223. 
Cactus  melo,  137. 
Caimans,  73. 
Calabash-tree,  25. 
Calenture,  84. 
Camachina,  town  of,  162. 
Camaguan,  town  of,  87. 
Cambure,  53. 
Camino  Eeal,  212. 
Campos,  315. 
Caiia  Brava,  31. 
Cannibal-fish,  98. 

Canoe-navigation,  diflBculties  of,  77. 
Canoes,  66. 
Caracas,  books  in,  18. 

cutliedral  in,  13. 

cemeteries  at,  19. 

churches  of,  19. 

climate  of,  10,  21. 

earthquake  at,  15. 

government-house  at,  14. 

houses  in,  12. 

population  of,  12,  17. 

printing-press  in,  19. 

situation  of,  11. 

streets  of,  12. 

university  of,  14. 

valley  of,  4, 10. 

vegetation  about,  10. 
Caribe  fish,  98. 
Casa  Real,  165. 


Cassiquiare,  59. 

mouth  of,  172. 
Cattle,  wild,  94,  263. 
Cave  of  Ataruipe,  140. 

Encantado,  20,  24. 
Cemeteries  at  Caracas,  19. 
Ccrbatana,  144. 
Cliica,  manufacture  of,  284. 
Chillo,  hacienda  of,  236. 
Chimbo,  valley  of,  213. 
Chiniborazo,  218,  241. 

ascent  of,  243. 

first  view  of,  205. 

not  a  volcano,  243. 
Chiguire,  104. 
Chisinchi,  ridge  of,  225. 
Christmas  on  the  Amazons,  305. 

on  the  Eio  Negro,  183. 
Chuquipoyo,  217. 
Churches  in  Caracas,  19. 
Clay,  Tabatinga,  157. 
Climate  of  Caracas,  10. 

of  Guayaquil,  202. 

of  Javita,  166. 

of  Maypurcs,  154. 

of  Peruvian  coast,  200. 

of  Quito,  227. 

of  San  Fernando,  90. 

of  Upper  Kio  Negro,  177. 

of  Urbana,  120. 

of  Valley  of  Amazons,  321. 
Clock,  repairing  a,  169. 
Coaches,  35. 
Coca  Eiver,  285. 
Cock  of  the  Eock,  170, 
Cocoa-palms,  55. 
Coffee,  21,  33,  45. 
Colombia,  name  changed,  9. 
Colonel  Staunton,  255. 

grave  of,  236. 

Ms  object  in  visiting  the  tropics, 
256. 
Colonization  in  Brazil,  192. 
Condor,  264. 

Constellations,  southern,  184. 
Cotopaxi,  244. 

last  view  of,  287. 

plains  about,  223. 
Cotton,  158. 
Cotton-tree,  153. 
Cow-tree,  52,  320. 
Crater  of  Pichineha,  247. 
Crocodiles,  94. 

sleep  of,  95. 
Curare,  manufacture  of,  146. 
Custom-house  reasonableness,  i. 

Decomposition  of  rocks,  124. 
Departure  from  Baul,  84. 


32G 


INDEX. 


Departure  from  Guayaquil,  203. 

from  Manaos,  308. 

from  Maypures,  155. 

from  Napo  village,  283. 

from  Papallacta,  2G7. 

from  Para,  323. 

from  Quito,  255. 

from  San  Fernando,  91. 

from  Santa  Kosa,  284. 

from  Urbana,  123. 

from  Valencia,  60. 
Dirt-eating  Indians,  125. 
Dress  of  Caragualiians,  18. 

Earthquakes,  effects  of,  on  inhabit- 
ants, 17. 

of  1812,  15. 

of  1868,  232. 

traces  of,  231. 
Ecuadorian  coast,  200. 
Edwards,  Mr.  George,  278. 
Ega,  305. 

Eggs  of  turtles,  126. 
Electric  eels,  97. 
Elevation  of  Caracas  Valley,  4,  10. 

of  Llanos,  65. 

of  valley  of  Aragua,  32. 

of  Lake  Tacarigua,  40. 
Encampment,  268. 
Epiphytes,  28. 
Equiseta,  28,  275. 

Farina,  20. 

Fells  oncja,  106. 

Ferns,  arborescent,  275. 

Fever,  attacked  by,  203. 

Fiesta,  at  Urbana,  113. 

Fiestas,  235. 

Flooded  forest,  109,  310. 

Fonte  boa,  304. 

Fording  rivers,  62. 

Forest,  tropical,  47,  51,  69,  74,  195, 

200,  203,  208,  252,  275,  292. 
Fossil  shells,  263. 
Flowers,  absence  of,  276. 

coloration  of,  at  high  altitudes, 

216. 

Game,  scarcity  of,  170,  253,  276. 
Geology  of  the  Kio  Negro,  189. 
Gilbert,  sickness  of,  84. 
Glacial  phenomona,  299,  300. 
action,  limitation  of,  301. 
Gnats,  131. 

Gold-regions  of  Guiana,  119. 
Grasses,  arborescent,  72,  204. 
Guacamayas,  180,  288. 
Guarana,  313. 
Guarauda,  213. 


Guayaquil,  201. 

climate  of,  202. 

population  of,  202. 
Guayas,  scenery  upon,  203,  206. 
Guiana,  hills  of,  110. 
Groups  of  volcanoes,  239. 
Gymnoti,  97. 

Hacienda,  life  at,  54. 

of  Antisana,  245. 

of  Chillo,  236. 

of  Itulcachi,  259. 

of  Lloa,  246. 

of  Mr.  Glr.ckler,  44. 
Hammocks,  manufacture  of,  170. 
Hart,  Professor,  301. 
Harvest  of  turtles'  eggs,  127. 
Hauxwell,  Mr.,  296. 
Herbarium,  loss  of,  34. 
Hieroglyphics,  46. 
Higuei-ote,  view  from,  31. 
Hondachi,  270. 
Horses,  wild,  94,  263. 
Houses  of  Caracas,  12. 
Howling  monkeys,  75. 
Humboldt,  16. 
Hummers,  217,  288. 

"leamiaba,"  304. 
Igarapes,  77,  310. 
Iguanas,  82. 

Inca  empire,  origin  of,  228. 
Incas,  language  of,  282. 

poetry  of,  282. 

roads  of,  262. 
Indians,  Arehidonian,  272. 

beliefs  of,  132,  296. 

burial  of,  280. 

civilizations  of,  262. 

desertion  by,  181. 

dirt-eating,  125. 

encampment  of,  290. 

festivals  of,  280. 

honesty  of,  162. 

hospitality  of,  224. 

huts  of  J  129. 

improvidence  of,  169. 

language  of,  129,  281. 

Napo,  281. 

oddities  of,  291. 

ornaments  of,  151. 

Otomac,  124. 

taking  photographs  of,  274. 

Piaroa,  151. 

separation  from,  271. 

simplicity  of,  132,  303. 

traits  of,  267. 

Waraun,  71,  98. 

■weapons  of,  145,  146. 


INDEX. 


327 


Indians,  Yaqua,  296. 

Zaparo,  2S1. 
Insects,   sufferings  from,  14T,    354, 
290. 

phosphorescence  of,  150. 
Inundation  of  Llanos,  65,  81,  93. 
Itulcaclii,  hacienda  of,  259. 
Iquitos,  302. 
Ivy,  54. 

Jaguars,  106,  91. 
Javita,  climate  of,  1 66. 

isthmus  of,  165. 

portage  of,  165. 

town  of,  164. 
Jerked  beef,  77. 
Jiggers,  105. 

La  Guaira,  1. 

church  at,  3. 

fortifications  of,  3. 
.  population  of,  3. 
Lake  of  Tacarigua,  40. 
Latacunga,  224. 
La  Valle,  27. 
Lava-streams,  241,  265. 
Life,    animal,  scarcity  ot,  170,  176, 

253,  276. 
Llama,  211. 

Llano  hut,  night  at,  80. 
Llanos,  birds  upon,  81. 

cattle  upon,  94. 

elevation  ol^,  65. 

extent  of,  64. 

features  of,  64. 

fevers  upon,  85. 

first  view  oi,  64. 

inundation  of,  65,  81,  93. 

life  upon,  81. 

loneliness  of,  78. 

scarcity  of  stones  upon,  69. 

scenery  upon,  87,  99. 

■wild-horses  upon,  94. 
Lloa,  hacienda  of,  246. 
Loreto,  303. 
Lost  in  the  forest,  79. 

on  the  mountains,  48. 

Machete,  14. 
Madeira,  309. 
Maguey,  5,  29,  31. 
Manaos,  arrival  at,  191. 

departure  from,  308. 

situation  of,  191. 

water-fall  at,  192, 
Manati,  102. 
Maudioca,  26. 
Mangoes,  21. 
Mangrove-trees,  56. 


Mai-acai,  36. 

Marajo,  island  of,  317. 

Marquitia,  5. 

Maucallata,  303. 

Maypures,  village  of,  154.    ■ 

Meeting  of  parties,  322. 

Mimosas,  103,  259. 

Mirage  on  the  Orinoco,  126. 

Misagualli,  274. 

Mocha,  town  of,  218. 

Monkeys,  74,  204,  308. 

ateles,  309. 
Monkey-bridges,  76. 
Monte  Alegre,  316. 
Moraines,  299,  300. 
Morua,  town  of,  168. 
Mosquiteros,  use  of,  ICO. 
Mountain  scenery,  63. 
Mountains,  absence  of,  286. 

influence  of,  262. 
Mules,  209,  210. 

a  word  on,  34. 

trains  of,  64. 
Musical  rocks,  134. 

Napo  Eiver,  Indians  upon,  281. 

rapids  of,  283. 

•watch  upon,  292. 
Napo  village,  278. 
Native  mills,  69. 
Natives,  superstition  of,  69. 
Nature's  chronometer,  156. 

solitudes,  216. 
Navigating  by  night,  87. 

upon  the  Portuguesa,  88. 
Negroes  of  Venezuela,  18. 
New  Granada,  name  clianged,  9. 

Obidos,  Straits  of,  313. 

town  of,  314. 
Orinoco,  cataracts  of,  141 . 

features  of,  133. 

first  view  of,  110. 

former  level  of,  135,  153. 

rise  of.  111. 

I'ocks  on,  148. 
Otomac  Indians,  124. 

Paita,  197. 

church  at,  198. 
Palito,  54. 
Palnia  de  cobija,  70. 
Palms,  2,_  55,  70,  166,  317. 

Assai,  317. 

Moriche,  70. 

on  the  Orinoco,  150. 
Palo  de  vaca,  52. 
Panama,  bay  of,  195. 

town  of,  195. 


328 


INDEX. 


Pao,  town  of,  65. 
Pai:)aw-tree,  51. 
Papallacta,  266. 

departure  from,  207. 
Para,  city  of,  318. 

estuary  of,  317. 
Paramos,  201,  203. 
Passports,  172. 
Pastassa,  225. 
Pebas,  296. 
Peccaries,  287. 
Pcdrero,  188. 
Peruvian  coast,  193. 

coast,  causes  of  sterility,  199. 

coast,  climate  of,  200. 

empire,  fall  of,  229. 
Petare,  22. 

Petroleum-wells,  200. 
Phosphorescence,  196. 
Phosphorescent  insects,  151. 
Pichincha,  215. 

ascent  of,  2-16. 

crater  of.  247. 

plants  within  crater,  249. 

storm  within  crater,  249. 

view  from,  251. 
Piedra  de  la  Paciencia,  137. 

del  Tig-re,  134. 
Pimicliin,  town  of,  167. 
Pineapples,  24. 
Pirarucu,  189. 
Polylepis-tree,  267. 
Population  of  Caracas,  19. 

of  Guayaquil,  202. 

of  La  G-uaira,  1. 

of  Puerto  Cabello,  57. 

of  Quito,  232. 

of  Venezuela,  19. 
Portage  of  Pimichin,  165. 
Portuguesa,  65. 

navigation  upon,  88. 
Portuguese  currency,  175. 
Posada  scene,  218. 
Posaderos,  34. 
Pot-holes,  148. 

Preparations  for  leaving  Quito,  253. 
Printing-presses  in  Caracas,  19. 
Professor  Ernst,  7. 

Gearing,  7. 

Hart,  301. 
Protestant  bui'ial-ground  at  Quito, 

257. 
Puerto  Cabello,  57. 

exports  of,  57. 

population  of,  57. 
Puma,  106. 
Puna,  island  of,  201. 
Putaro  Kiver,  falls  of,  188. 


Quebrada  de  Tipo,  6. 
Quito,  altitude  of,  226. 

buildings  of,  231. 

classes  in,  234. 

climate  of,  227. 

departure  from,  225. 

lack  of  enterprise  in,  234. 

fete-Aaj  at,  235. 

future  of,  236. 

history  of,  227. 

modern,  231. 

plazas  in,  231. 

population  of,  232. 

Protestant  burial  at,  257. 

religion  in,  235. 

valley  of,  226,  258,  260. 
Quitonian  volcanoes,  239. 


Eaces,  problem  of,  233. 
Eain,  fall  of,  at  Caracas,  21. 
Eancho,  268. 

Eapids,  shooting  of,  79,  283. 
Eaudal  de  Atabajo,  138. 

Atures,  141. 

Atures,  passage  of,  143. 

Cariben,  135. 

Garcita,  150. 

los  Guahibos,  152. 

Marimara,  134. 

Maypures,  152. 

Maypures,  fall  of,  154. 

Tabaja,  137. 
Eeligion  in  Quito,  235. 
Eeligious  intolerance,  257. 
Eio  Branco,  188. 

Caliente,  54. 

Clarito,  108. 

Cosanga,  269. 

Esmeraldas,  200,  225. 

Guaira,  10,  12.    . 

Napo,  276. 

Napo,  features  of,  286. 

Napo,  Indians  on,  281. 

Napo,  rapids  of,  283. 

Napo,  storms  upon,  292. 

Napoj  watch  upon,  292. 

Napo,  winds  upon,  278. 

Negro,  breadth  of,  187, 191. 

Negro,  cataracts  of,  179. 

Negro,  climate  of,  177. 

Negro,  experiences  on,  190. 

Negro,  features  of,  180. 

Negro,  geology  of,  189. 

Negro,  routes  to,  from  Orinoco, 
160. 

Negro,  scarcity  of  life  on,  176. 

Negro,  scenery  upon,  185. 

Negro,  waters  of,  168. 

Negro,  winds  upon,  187. 


INDEX. 


329 


Eio  Pao,  65. 

Trinaco,  83. 

Trinaco,  navigating,  OS. 
River-systems,  58. 
Eoads,  61. 
Eocks,  decomposition  of,  124. 

monolitliic,  173. 

on  the  Orinoco,  148. 

pictured,  46. 

striated,  30a. 
Eoutes    from  Jiivita    to    Pimicliiu, 
167. 

La  Guaira  to  Caracas,  4. 

Oi-inoco  to  Eio  Negro,  IGO. 

Sabbath,  observance  of,  19,  222. 
Saman,  103. 

de  Guere,  35. 
San  Carlos,  172. 
Sancudos,  86,  290. 
San  Fernando,  88. 

de  Atabapo,  158. 
Sangai,  244. 
San  Isabel,  182. 

Miguel,  171,  213. 

Paulo,  304. 
Santa  Barbara,  130. 

Eosa,  284. 
Santarem,  314. 
Saurians,  sleep  of,  95. 
Saw-mills,  320. 
Sea-cow,  102. 

mode  of  capture,  103. 
Sensitive-plants,  259. 
Serpa,  312. 

Sheep  destitute  of  wool,.  173. 
Shells,  marine,  297. 
Ship-building,  159. 
Shooting  rapids,  79. 
SUla,  10. 

slope  of,  27. 

zones  of  vegetation  on,  2. 
Snow-line,  215. 
Soldado,  101. 
Southern  firmament,  184. 
Spanish  curiosity,  219. 
Stars,  scintillations  of,  261. 
Steamer  "Morona,"  303. 
Stores  in  Caracas,  14. 
Summer  sleep  of  saurians,  95. 

Tabatinga,  304. 

clay,  157. 
Tablon,  260. 
Tacarigua  Lake,  desiccation  of,  40. 

elevation  of,  41. 

extent  of,  42. 
Taiapurii,  chaimcl  of,  317. 
Tapioca,  20. 


Termites,  18. 

Thanksgiving  dinner,  152. 
Thermal  springs,  53. 
Thunder-storms,  21. 
Tides  upon  the  Amazons,  313. 
Tierra  calientc,  5. 
Tiger-hunt,  47. 
Toucans,  288. 
Trinchara,  50. 

Tropical  forest,  47,  51,  69,  74,  195, 
200,  203,  208,  252,  275,  292. 

stoi-ms,  83. 

torrents,  267. 
Tropics,  first  view  of,  1. 
Tschudi,  Dr.,  17. 
Tuesday,  unlucky  day,  86. 
Tunantins,  304. 
Turtles,  eggs  of,  126,  289. 

destruction  of,  128. 

mode  of  capture,  146. 

Uaupes,  177. 

University  at  Caracas,  14. 

Upper  Orinoco,  calm  upon,  155. 

Eio  Negro,  navigating  on,  178. 
Urbana,  climate  of,  120. 

delay  at,  120. 

departure  from,  123. 

entering.  111. 

fiesta-day  at,  113. 

population  of,  114. 

situation  of,  115. 

Vaca  marina,  102. 
Valencia,  city  of,  89. 

entrance  in,  38. 
Valley  of  Chimbo,  213. 

Quito,  226,  260. 

Quito,  last  view  ot,  2G5. 

Quito,  width  of,  258. 

the  Amazons,  265. 

the  Amazons,  geology  of,  297. 

^Vj'agua,  35. 

Aragua,  elevation  of,  32. 
Vampire-bats,  139. 
Vegetation,  adaptation  of,  210. 

on  the  Eio  Pao,  70. 

of  high  altitudes,  216. 

on  the  Andes,  201. 

zones  of,  216. 
Venezuela,  population  of,  17. 
Venezuelian  etiquette,  26. 

store,  14. 
Victoria,  33. 

population  ot,  35. 

Eegia,  311. 
Viviano,  67. 

Volcanoes,  groups  of,  238. 
Voyage  upon  Eio  Pao,  68. 


330 


INDEX. 


"Waraun  Indians,  71,  98. 

Water-dog,  104. 

Water-hog,  104. 

Water-system    of  South  America, 

58. 
Weapons  of  Indians,  145, 146. 
Wet  season  at  Caracas,  21. 
Wheat,  33. 


Wilson,  Mr.,  death  of,  26. 

Yuca,  26,  284. 
Yucca  acauHs,  29. 

"  Zaparo,"  our  craft,  285. 

parting  from,  302. 
Zones  of  vegetation,  216. 


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